rd2rk

Just saw soundog's post. If you can snag that, it could do the job, but be sure to use PayPal (for the guarantee). The one I saw didn't look all that sturdy.

Yes, it's huge. But for $150? Good Luck! WARNING! Every other device (and there's not many) in that price range is limited in function and/or programmability (not a word, but should be), and often lack editors. Download and read the manuals before purchasing. For instance, this LOOKS perfect: https://smile.amazon.com/Controller，MeloAudio-Multi-Effects-Controller-Switches，2-Expression/dp/B07HH27RVN/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=midi+foot+controller&qid=1587314586&s=musical-instruments&sr=1-2 But here's a typical review, from THEIR OWN website (https://meloaudio.com/collections/tone-shifter/products/meloaudio-midi-commander-guitar-floor-multi-effects-portable-usb-midi-foot-controller-foot-switches): Could have been a great product but ... Sorry to be the grouchy guy here, but the Midi Commander is a big disappointment and a real waste, as it could have been a great product. The worst is that (except for the preconfigured Kemper, AxeFX, etc, modes) it is unsuable because of two details : no possibility to edit the CC value and, i am still left aghast about this, the latch (toggle off) mode only sends 127 value and no 0 value, so i don't know what this could be used for. The logic would be that IF on toggle ON, one click would send 127 and next click would send 0, THEN on toggle mode OFF one click would send 127 then immediatly go to zero as soon as the switch is released, NO ? Am i retarded ? Or is this a joke ?? This would be kind of easily forgiven if the customer support were communicating, but is is one of the worst i have ever encountered, only polite answers with no facts behind the promises. I honestly feel fooled and spent some precious money for something i just can't use. For some, 150 bucks is still an amount in a monthly budget. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bolded text is the dis-qualifier. And the "Manual" is barely readable. There's a reason that the FCB has been the go-to economy foot controller for two decades. Also, you can often find them used for $75-100. You can always cut off the Expression pedals. There's a guy, think he made a video on YouTube, who actually did that! Looked really cool!

FCB1010 and UNO_ControlCenter Editor. https://www.fcb1010.uno/ . Cheapest, most flexible and most programmable. Technophobes will say that it hard to program. That's why you get the UNO_ControlCenter Editor, pictured above. The pictured configuration is about the simplest, but with the UNO Chip (not necessary to use the editor), you can easily control 5 Stomps, change snapshots and recall presets. Works with standard MIDI DIN connectors. Computer connection only required for configuration - can also be configured manually, but I don't recommend it. In your price range there's nothing better. If you choose to go this way, I'll be happy to help with your configuration.

I'm a PC guy, I don't know about MAC. BUT.... if the software (Slowdowner or whatever) plays through the computer's sound card (comes out the headphone jack), you connect the headphone jack to the Stomp's FX Loop Returns (1/8" TRS to Dual 1/4" Mono Insert Cable). Then in Global Settings>Ins/Outs you set "Return Type" to AUX IN. The sound coming from the computer plays, unprocessed, out the Stomp's L/R Outputs, mixed with the Processed guitar signal. Your speakers need to be connected to the Stomp for this to work. At some point you'll decide that you want to record yourself with a DAW (google it). The Stomp will serve as your Audio Interface. Come back when you get to that point and I'll suggest a DAW (Reaper) and tell you how to do it. EDIT: Sorry, hit send too soon. If you set the Computer to use the Stomp as it's Sound Card, you don't need the cable I suggested above. I put that first because when you decide that you want to record yourself, that's the way you'll want to do it, so that you can record your playing on one DAW track, and your backing track separately on another. If I've confused you, to clarify, have someone explain to you how to set the Stomp as your Sound Card and you're good to go, the computer's sounds will come through the Stomp with your guitar. On a Windows PC there's a Sound applet that you configure that in. Like I said, I don't know MAC.

Get a PAIR of these: https://www.amazon.com/JBL-Professional-Next-Generation-Powered-305PMKII/dp/B077N2GQXC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2HNY13QK65X8E&dchild=1&keywords=studio+monitors&qid=1587082713&s=musical-instruments&sprefix=studio%2Celectronics%2C190&sr=1-3 They'll cost a LOT less than one A7X and sound better because, well, STEREO! Unless you're mixing for pay, in which case get a PAIR of A7X. If you think that itty bitty JBL thing sounds good, prepare to have your mind blown!

May the Rock Gods smile upon ye, and inspire ye to the making of much beautiful music!

I just tried this with one of the factory MIDI Templates (MIDI Bass Pedals). Worked fine both on the Helix and with HX Edit. Could be the Preset is corrupt? Or maybe certain MIDI commands cause the problem (the one I tried just has NOTEs)? Attach a copy of the preset and I'll try on my box. What version are you using? I'm on 2.82.

Don't know how they came up with the stock settings, somebody's preferences I guess. As we all know, no such thing as "one size fits all" when it comes to sound. If you want to save any amp or device's settings, just have "Template" presets. I save mine at the end of a setlist with a TMP prefix. Reverb template, delay template, OD template, etc. Supposedly either 2.9 or 3.0 will have "Favorites".

Consider a real world scenario. Your loaded analog pedalboard can easily have 2k worth of pedals on it. Depending on whether you're using 4cm or not, lots of wires. If you think about it, it's a pretty fragile thing. The Helix LT is pretty sturdy. The Helix Floor is nearly indestructible. Place it on your side of your floor monitor, it should be protected from all but the most determined of the drunken savages in the audience. ITRW, between songs you may have to bend over between MANY songs to adjust effects. Presets and Snapshots eliminate most of that. Many times IRL you'll have to run back to your amp to make adjustments, then back up front, back and forth. You'd have to do the same with a Helix Rack. Not so with a Floor, all the adjustments are right there at your feet. Sure, you have to bend over. Let's see, bend over vs run back and forth? No brainer for me. At home or in the studio, bring a laptop, run HX Edit, no bending at all. The Rack/Controller rig may have some advantages in the studio like dedicated DI out, but that's all I can think of. Somebody who owns one may know more. Consider setup. Arrive at the gig with guitar in one hand, FRFR in the other, Helix Floor, wireless, cables, etc in the Helix backpack on your back. One trip in, one trip out. The rack will require, well, a RACK! and a carrier for the controller and Expression pedal(s), wires, wireless, etc. Add guitar, FRFR....... I vote Helix Floor!

Press the MODE switch to toggle between the two views.

In Global Settings>Ins/Outs set the Output Level to INST.

You're OK until the FX Loop. That requires a Block, and you can't do a second split for the two cabs (only one split allowed). Also, as soon as you start talking dual amps, you're seriously limiting the DSP remaining for other effects. Noise Gate is part of the Input Block, but if you want one elsewhere in the signal chain, that's another Block. Sounds to me like the Stomp is not what you need. Any of the full sized Helix devices will do what you want, and the LT is in the price range with the FM3, but if you can't try one, and you've already tried the FM3 and like it, that's the way to go. BUT, if you haven't actually TRIED the FM3, then it's a crap shoot. As for the whether you'll like the high gain amps, the answer is YES/NO/MAYBE. No one can say what YOU will like, it's too subjective. Overall it sounds like you want the FM3. Go for it!

Empty Presets are named "New Preset". Copy a "New Preset". Paste the "New Preset" over the one you want to "Delete".

You're out of DSP. Try pulling that EQ out of Path 1 and moving it to Path 2. If that doesn't get it then you may need to swap out amps until you find one that works.

Once you've decoded the funny names, go to the mfr's website and DL the manual, or google for the original manual. That won't help with the L6 originals, but learning the real world devices will help you to figure out the originals.

copy/paste NEW PRESET

Save the preset with one ON and one OFF. They'll toggle.

When you hit the MODE switch it should put you into full Stomp mode with all of your Stomp switches available.

Did you DL the Impedance chart I referenced? If, with AUTO ON, you ONLY use effects in front of the amp that have 1meg Input Impedance, then your pickups are loaded exactly as if you were plugged direct into the amp. If you only use ONE effect before the amp and it has OTHER than 1meg Input impedance, set the Preset Input impedance to that. For instance - Guitar>CABLE> Tube Screamer>Amp = Input Impedance 230k (or whatever the TS is). If you use a mix of devices in front of the amp that have DIFFERING Input Impedances, use Snapshots to set the Preset Input Impedance to whatever the first ACTIVE effect requires.

Output impedance doesn't matter. If you're using a wireless your pickups are loaded at 1meg to match what they'd see plugged straight into an amp.. If you're hard wired (using a physical cable) THEN If the Drop has an INPUT impedance of 1meg, your pickups are loaded at 1meg, UNLESS the drop is TRUE True bypass. If it's TRUE true bypass, when it's bypassed then your pickups are loaded per the Helix settings as described above. If the Input Impedance of the Drop is <>1meg, then it's not going to work as designed with wireless. See why so many people just leave Helix at AUTO and either don't use effects with other requirements or just accept them as they are like it or not? Unless you're a true connoisseur of fuzz (not me), in which case you don't use wireless or only use fuzz boxes that have 1meg Input impedance (that's me).

Auto sounds just fine IF none of the effects before the amp require a lower impedance AND you're hardwired (not wireless). If you ARE using effects that require a lower impedance ITRW, they could sound fine because you don't have the real world effects to compare. OR because the difference just doesn't matter to you. All we're saying is that with some effects in some configurations, somebody who knows what the REAL effects sound like can tell the difference.

I just take the XLR from my Powercab to my AI. There's a couple of good reasons to take the XLR from Helix to the AI instead: 1) I use the Powercab "Speaker" mode primarily, no IRs. I take a split off the end of my path, add an IR, and send that to my FRFR112. That allows me to play around with "How will this preset sound through FOH?". I can swap IRs all I want in Helix without affecting the Powercab sound. 2) I can use BOTH the XLR from the Powercab (closest to actual Powercab sound) and the XLR from the Helix (with or without IRs) to record separate tracks. If I put the split BEFORE effects I can get a CLEAN track for re-amping. Put the split at the end of the signal path I can use the IRs in the Helix or any of the many thousands of IRs I have in the computer, and/or add post processing stuff. IOW - best of all worlds!

Once you get your AES/EBU cable hooked up, you can send the XLR to the UR44 (which is where the monitors are connected?) and it'll work fine. It's possible to listen to your Helix via USB by setting the RECORDING device in Windows Sound Panel to Helix, and in PROPERTIES/LISTEN set it to Listen to this Device. However, you won't be using ASIO, you'll be using Windows drivers, and the latency will be worse than if you open a DAW using the Helix ASIO and take the Input of a track from Helix into the UR44 via XLR with the Track Monitor/Input Echo button ON. At 128samples that will give you roughly 12ms RT Latency. If you're listening to the Powercab and your Monitors at the same time, the Monitors will sound like an echo of the Powercab. Get your AES/EBU up and then use the XLR Outs to the UR44 UNLESS you want the fully processed sound (including the Powecab) in your mix to your DAW. That's how I do it.

OP was not clear, but I got the impression that's what he was doing. OP?

Doesn't mention that in the EB demo video or User manual. Since OP can't get it to work, please explain to him how you make it work. Thanks!