rd2rk

You have two FX loops, L and R. Put your external FX in FX Loop L - !/4" TS (tip/sleeve - guitar cable) to first effect Input, last effect Output (TS Cable) to Amp Input, Amp SEND to RETURN L. Place the MONO FX LOOP Block L wherever you want the FX and Joyo PREAMP in the chain. This is called 4cm (four cable method). **External FX can be placed between the SEND L and amp Input and/or between the Amp SEND and RETURN L. Take the Output from the SR (TS cable) to the RETURN R and place the MONO RETURN R Block at the END of your signal chain. Make sure that the GLOBAL SETTINGS>Ins/Outs are set to INSTRUMENT for both Send/Return L and R, and RETURN TYPE is set to RETURN. If the SR is distorting set Send/Return R to LINE. You can now plug your guitar into the XL Input to have XL FX (OD, MOD) in front of your external FX/Joyo PREAMP, XL FX (MOD, Delay, Reverb, Joyo PREAMP), after the external FX/Joyo PREAMP. Your XL Main Output L/Mono can now be connected to your amp's Return or PA. The SR's signal will BYPASS all of your other (XL and external) FX/Joyo PREAMP. If you want ONLY the guitar through the amp and the SR into another amp or PA, pull the RETURN R Block down to split the path, then use an A/B Split (instead of a Y-Split and pan it full LEFT. At the MIXER Block Pan A full LEFT and B Full RIGHT. Now the guitar signal on Path A will be routed to the L/Mono Output and the SR will be routed to the RIGHT Output. I've attached a demo preset showing how to split the Guitar and SR signals to separate amps. Just place the RETURN R Block at the end of the chain (no split) if you DON'T want to split the signals. Mendo222.hlx

I'm getting the same import problem as @datacommando.

Attach a preset where this is happening.

You are still confusing the component parts. The names silk-screened around the Selector Knob on the Panel indicate an AMP TYPE/VOICING pairing. CLEAN is CLARITY in GROUP 1 and ARCHETYPE in GROUP 2. The Chart on Page 9 describes those pairings. Clarity is in Group 1. It is not in Group 2. But it can be on ANY CHANNEL of ANY BANK. The GROUPS are simply - GROUP 1 = ORIGINAL AMPS and GROUP 2 = NEW AMPS in CX. The GROUPS are not in any way related/tied to the CHANNELS until they are SET and SAVED to a particular CHANNEL/PRESET. You can have any AMP TYPE from either GROUP in either CHANNEL of any BANK. The LED indicates which PAIRING is active in any CHANNEL/PRESET (A or B) of the current BANK. If OBLIVION is SAVED to CHANNEL A of BANK 1, then the LED of the Physical Selector Knob will indicate Hi-Gain. There is no indication on the PANEL of which GROUP is ACTIVE. It would be nice if the SELECTOR KNOB LED changed color to indicate the GROUP. Maybe in a future update. In the APP, the NAME of the PRESET/CHANNEL does not automatically change when you change the Amp Type/Voicing/Group. They are NOT tied together. In the default presets, as the chart depicts, BANK 1 CHANNEL A is CLEAN = CLARITY, Group 1. BANK 1 CHANNEL B is CLEAN = ARCHETYPE, Group 2. In the default presets, if you are in BANK 1, CHANNEL A, the PRESET NAME will be CLARITY and CHANNEL B will be ARCHETYPE no matter WHAT actual Amp Type/Voicing is loaded, and the LED will be on CLEAN. You have to change the NAME manually as I described. There is no place in the current APP where the actual name of the GROUP 1 or 2 amp is displayed, merely GROUP 1 or GROUP 2 below the Virtual Selector Knob. It would be nice if, in a future APP update, they were to have the names of the amps on the VIRTUAL selector knob reflect the names of the amps in the selected GROUP. They probably reasoned that, since the amp names on the PHYSICAL selector knob can't change, it would be confusing. In the meantime, we just need to remember which amps are in which pairing/group. I hope that all of this typing (much more than appears in this final draft!) clarifies things because I'm getting a headache!

You're confusing BANKS and GROUPS, and maybe misinterpreting the chart? Each BANK consists of 2 "Channels". "Channels" are NOT the same as "Channels" in an analog amp. Each "Channel" is actually a PRESET. Each CHANNEL/PRESET can contain any amp from either GROUP. GROUP 1 = ORIGINAL and GROUP 2 = NEW in CX. The default CHANNELS/PRESETS of BANK 1 contain CLARITY (Ch A) from GROUP 1 and ARCHETYPE CLEAN (Ch B) from GROUP 2. They could just as easily contain Elmsley from GROUP 2 on Ch A and OBLIVION from GROUP 1 on CH B. IOW - those assignments are not written in stone. They are simply PRESETS that can contain anything you choose. The Chart shows a Column for AMP TYPE, but the "amps" listed in that column are merely the amp names that are silk-screened on the Panel. The amps listed in the VOICING column are nothing more than what comes loaded in the Factory Presets. They can be anything you choose. So, think of the names on the Panel surrounding the Selector Knob as BANKS A-F, and only as relates to "This is a BANK consisting of 2 PRESETS called A & B". After all, if you PRESS the EFFECT button (labelled EFFECT 1 on the CX) and TAP button at the same time so that the LED on the EFFECT button is BLUE, the positions on the Amp Selector Knob (when you PRESS AND HOLD those buttons) now represent PLASTICHORUS, OPTO TREM, SCRIPT MOD PHASER, GRAY FLANGER, UBIQUITOUS VIBE and ROTARY. IOW - the CHART changes to the EFFECT Chart (Page 10) that corresponds to the EFFECT TYPE for that LED color (DELAY=GREEN; MODULATION= BLUE; etc). So, if you CHANGE the amp in BANK 1 CH A from CLARITY (the default) to something else, be sure to change the default NAME of that Channel. You need to do that in the APP, and after typing a new name don't forget to hit ENTER before you SAVE the CHANNEL/PRESET with the new name or it won't take! Questions?

I had a quick look at the M13 manual. It is not very helpful in this context, so I'm making some guesses here. It appears that M13 "presets" are called "Scenes", and there are 48 of them. There appears to be no way to assign specific MIDI messages to a Scene. The manual says that the M13 can SEND MIDI, so I assume that means each Scene sends a pre-determined PC#. That would be either 0-47 or 1-48. You can check that using a MIDI Monitor such as: MIDIView - Free MIDI Monitor tool for Win & Mac (hautetechnique.com) Catalyst does not have a Bank Up/Down command. You call a Bank/Channel using individual PC#s: PC# 0 = MANUAL PC#1 = Bank 1 Channel A PC#2 = Bank 1 Channel B PC#3 = Bank 2 Channel A PC#4 = Bank 2 Channel B etc. Assuming that the Scenes send corresponding PC#s: Scene 1 = MANUAL Scene 2 = Bank 1 Channel A Scene 3 = Bank 1 Channel B Scene 4 = Bank 2 Channel A Scene 5 = Bank 2 Channel B etc.

Seems pretty straight-forward, and that's how I tested it. In analog bypass mode, both outputs functioned as expected - LEFT went LEFT and RIGHT went RIGHT. How in the world do you get two signals from each Output in analog bypass mode??? IIRC, that whole linked discussion was very confused, and I was never able to duplicate the problem that the person who was pushing that theory was describing.

Yes. As long as your preset gets a "cab sim" - whether it comes from an IR on Helix (FLAT/FRFR Mode on the PC) or a "speaker emulation" (SPEAKER Mode on the PC) or an IR loaded on the PC (USER IR Mode on the PC) - it will sound like a MIC'd guitar amp to FOH.

No, he won't get a "cab sim" unless you use a "cab sim". You do not want to send the sound of a raw preset to FOH without either a speaker emulation or an IR (both of which are technically "cab sims" since neither is a Real World MIC on a Real World speaker), it would most probably sound awful.

Perform a Factory Reset. Turn the amp OFF and disconnect the USB cable. Restart the amp while holding the CH B and MANUAL buttons. If that fixes it, make sure the USB is not connected to a HUB (or front USB Ports on a Desktop). Check that you have the latest version of L6 Updater. If it fails again, try a different USB Cable. Even if you're using the cable that came with the Cat, defective cables are not unheard of. Max USB Cable Length is 15ft. If it doesn't work, contact support.

METHOD 1 If the IRs are loaded on the Powercab: In HX Edit, select the Output Block. In Bypass/Controller Assign select the Powercab tab. REMOTE=Preset MODE=User IR SELECT 1=Using User IR Select the desired IR for the LEFT Speaker SELECT 2=Using User IR Select the desired IR for the RIGHT Speaker If you're changing IRs using Snapshots assign MODE, SELECT and User IR to Snapshots. SAVE your Preset. If using Snapshots repeat for each Snapshot. Use PC Edit to check that when the preset loads you get the expected result. Then double check using your ears. Sometimes L6 Link does not perform as expected using this method. ALTERNATE METHOD: Use your Path 2 Split to load separate IR Blocks. At the MIX Block PAN A full LEFT and B full RIGHT. Make sure there's no MONO blocks after the MIX Block. If using Snapshots, in the IR Blocks set IR Select to Snapshots. Set the Powercabs to Preset 0 - Flat/FRFR (whatever it's called on the 112+, I have a 212+ which calls it Flat Stereo).

Unless you're running stereo to FOH, just give FOH the PC's L/MONO Out XLR. The PC does NOT automatically assign a speaker model. Set that once at the PC's panel and if you're only using one speaker (Cream), you're done. It's not going to change unless you tell it to. The default MIC for all of the PC's speaker emulations is a 57, but you can assign any MIC you want using MIDI. It only needs to be assigned in one preset. You can also use the PC's Cream Preset by SAVING it in PC Edit with a MIC other than the 57. Like the speaker model, it won't change unless you tell it to. That said, don't worry about it. If the tech can't handle a 57, you're doomed. Here's more what you need to know. In the PC's System Settings set the Level to MIC. IF he wants it hotter switch to LINE, but start with MIC. The actual db level sent from the XLR will be the level being sent from the modeler. If the modeler output is all over the place, you're doomed. I leave that at 0db. Always. But if you haven't levelled your presets, you're doomed. Use the Channel Volume to level your presets or anything other than the Output Block Level. The LED on the PC's Panel should be hitting yellow with your Lead Boost switches engaged. The Volume Knob on the Modeler should be disabled - on Helix you do that in Global Settings>Ins/Outs by setting the BIG KNOB to an output you're not using. This prevents accidents on stage from changing the level to the PC and FOH. The Volume knob on the PC ONLY affects your STAGE level, the level passed to the PC's XLR Out is the Level sent by the modeler. Lastly, IF you get a SOUNDCHECK, send your loudest level - Lead Boost switches fully engaged. Better he turns you UP because you're too low than he turns you DOWN and walks off to smoke a joint in the parking lot. Don't laugh, it happens! He never came back because he got arrested. GOOD LUCK!

The MC3 is a great choice. How do you mean "not as functional as my HX stomp"?

Hello and welcome! I don't have a GM but I'll try to address your needs from the Helix perspective. In order to call whatever GM presets you want in a given situation vs being tied to the MIDI PC# automatically sent by Helix when a preset loads, you disable that feature by going to Global Settings>MIDI/Tempo and setting MIID PC SEND = OFF. You probably want Duplicate PC Send and Snapshot CC Send OFF. In each Preset you use CommandCenter to set an InstantCommand (IC) - the lightning bolts on the top row - to send the required MIDI PC# on the MIDI Channel that the GM is listening on. Set the MSB/LSB/PC per the GM's Soundlist chart. Now when the Helix Preset loads it will automatically call the GM Sound specified by the IC in the default Snapshot. The Default Snapshot is the one you were in when you SAVED the preset (usually SS1). Additionally, you can use Snapshots to change the GM's Sound by going to the Snapshot and changing the settings of the IC. Example - SS1 (default) calls "Synth Bass 3 - MSB=87; LSB=86; PC=102 using the first IC (IC1) You want SS2 to call "Triangle Lead". Go to SS2 and change IC1's parameters to MSB=71; LSB=92; PC=75. ***If Global Settings>Preferences>Snapshot Edits is set to RECALL then you can edit as many Snapshots as you want, then return to SS1 and SAVE the preset without losing your work. If set to DISCARD you must SAVE the preset BEFORE moving to a different Snapshot, then return to SS1 for a final SAVE. If I get what you mean by: "Select and blend in GM presets" and "I tried bringing in the GM outputs to a Helix return pair, but the return blocks only give me a mix percentage for control. I attached the mix percentage to an expression pedal, but when I blend in the GM, the guitar level goes low." Use STEREO FX LOOP 1/2 wired accordingly to the stereo INs/OUTs of your GM. In Global Settings>INS OUTS set the 1/2 FX Loops to INSTRUMENT. Set the Exp Pedal to control the MIX Parameter. At HEEL DOWN (default MIN) you'll only hear the Helix FULL OUTPUT. At TOE DOWN the GM's FULL OUTPUT will be MIXED with the Helix FULL OUTPUT. If the GM is too loud you'll need to LOWER the GM's Output at the GM. There's a number of ways to get a separate Stereo Feed for FOH. Depending upon where in the signal chain you want to take the feed from, and whether or not you've already used that path's split, you could use STEREO SEND 3/4 or split the path and set the Output Blocks to different physical Outputs. Keep in mind that either way, the Helix Outputs are not BALANCED. You'll need a STEREO DI Box for FOH. Questions?

What's your budget and what EXACTLY do you want to be able to do? The FCB1010 is cheap if you have the real estate for it. The Ampero Control can do a lot for cheap and it's small. I use my Helix or HXS, and also have an FCB1010.

Have you opened a support ticket?

This is a user-to-user support forum. Nobody from L6 hangs out here. If you want the developers to see your suggestion, post it here: https://line6.ideascale.com/c/

@APSRN- I'm not sure which of us pushed your button. I hope it wasn't me! I've tried my best for you, and truthfully, I am baffled by your problem. My suggestion to try another device was well intentioned. Many thousands of people have Native working flawlessly, and I've personally helped many to get there. There comes a point where, when everything else is right, you have to consider that maybe it just might be that specific piece of gear causing the problem, and the only way to eliminate it is to try something else. Maybe the device itself is defective? My recommendation of the Focusrite was based on many years of using their products and my own experience with being unable to get certain Behringer products to work, EVEN WITH OTHER BEHRINGER PRODUCTS! Not that ALL Behringer products are bad, but the low end is infamous. And even if you manage to get your UM2 to work with ASIO4ALL you won't like the latency. Anyhow, please consider my suggestion, and I hope you get it all to work. Native is a great product, and I own every major amp sim and have trialed almost every minor player in the market for comparison. There's also no reason why Cakewalk shouldn't work - it was my first DAW over a decade ago when it was still called SONAR and even as a FREE DAW it remains an excellent, well supported product. FWIW - many of us on this forum are former IT Pros. I started on a C64 in the '80s and spent over 10 years as a freelance applications developer and Network Administrator before I got fed up with the crap and the constant rat-race and switched to driving a truck, which suited my personal temperament much better! I'm still the support network for everybody I know who owns a Windows computer.

Signal to both L and R, unless only L is connected.

My AKG K240's sound fine. My Sony MDR-V6's sound harsh. Both are "Studio" headphones, so... Play around with different speaker and mic combinations and, oh yeah, those round knob thingies on the amp panel... FWIW - there's no such thing as "FRFR" (full-range/flat response). It's a marketing gimic. There's only what sounds good to YOU.

Here's another thing to consider - SOME USB powered AI's are noisy. I know that you don't want to hear this, but maybe it's time for some "tough love". You bought the cheapest AI on the market from a mfr that is known for crappy low end hardware. They don't even provide drivers! How many hours have you spent on this project? IDK about you, but the last job I worked before retiring was driving a truck for $25/hr. I'm almost up to two hours (the price of the unit) just trying to help you make it work. Just go out and get a Focusrite Scarlett Solo (3rd or 4th gen - <>$100) and be done with it. If you get it at GC or Amazon you can even return it if you decide you don't like it.

You do not need to buy a new amp to get the new features, including the ability to use any two effects (vs any effect + reverb). Just install the latest FW update. The only difference between the new and old amps is the silk-screening on the panel and the panel trim is SCREWED down! You'll also need to update the App. TRY IT, YOU"LL LIKE IT!

From the manual, USB AUDIO section: Recording a Dry DI Track For this example, we’ll record guitar into two DAW tracks simultaneously, with one capturing the Helix-processed tone and the other the unprocessed DI guitar. 1. In the Helix Global Settings>Ins/Outs>Page 3 screen, set Re-amp Src (USB 7) to “Guitar” (as shown above). 2. Dial in your desired Helix tone, while keeping the Helix Input and Output blocks both set to the default “Multi” setting. 3. Create two new audio tracks in your DAW software project: Create one mono track to record the dry DI guitar, and set the track’s input to Helix USB 7. Continued...

You set the function of the switches in the app. Global Settings (the gear icon), then at the bottom of the drop-down choose the switch you want to configure and select from the list. The gap between channels is the same whether I use MIDI or the FS. Remember, you are not switching analog channels. Calling them CHANNELS is a bit misleading IMO. It's a marketing thing. You are actually switching PRESETS. It takes a moment to UNLOAD the CURRENT PRESET from memory and LOAD the NEW PRESET into memory. This also introduces the problem that if you switch channels while a note is ringing out, depending on the FX/OD level, strange noises could ensue. Since you have a MIDI controller (assuming it's a good one) you may be able to work around the gap problem by changing things within the channel/preset vs switching. I messed around with this a bit when I first got mine but decided it was too much trouble. I just don't switch channels while a note is ringing. Works for me!

When you connect to the editor it reads what is in the unit. When you make changes in the editor it is changing what is in the unit. Nothing is permanent until you SAVE, at which time the changes are saved in the unit. Nothing is saved on the computer. All changes are saved to the unit. The next time you connect, the editor simply reads what is on the unit.