edstar1960

It is not happening in the UK - they are still the usual price over here. Seems like it is just a USA price war going on between some retailers following Black Friday and Cyber Monday and the run up to Christmas. Besides which Digital_Igloo confirmed it has nothing to do with Line6.

Wow! That is so cheap! Over in the UK the best price I have seen is £359 - which is way way more than $360. I have seen it on ebay for less - in the £200 range but when I click on the ad info I find out that it is from the USA and the price in dollars is still about $430!! Then there is the international shipping to add to that! If I was in the USA, I would have to buy one at $360 as a back up to my current HD500. But unfortunately, I am not - so I will just have to stick with my HD500. :)

Good luck! It's a great deal at the moment! Hope you like it this time!

When I got my JTV 69 the string tension was tough - the action a little high - I had it set up which included lowering the slots in the nut a small amount and when I got it back the string tension felt just like my Strats and other trem guitars with 10's. It was much easier to play after the setup and the nut slot adjustment - it felt like a normal guitar (well one with a chunky neck). If your JTV69 is set up professionally the same as your Strat then the tension for the same gauge strings should feel the same. Strings can feel harder to bend if the break angle over the nut is steeper than an equivalent guitar or if your nut slots are too high meaning you have to push the strings down further to make contact with the top of the frets in the lower positions. The fret height should not matter as you only need to press the strings down to the top of the fret and not down to the fret board which is way below and which would make your notes go sharp anyway. As crusinon2 says - it's probably because you are not accustomed to the chunkier neck and the stretch between your thumb and fingers when fretting is greater than with your other guitars which leads to your hand feeling more tired more quickly.

I think the big problem with developing an A/B box for VDI connection is the power supply from the POD to the Variax. It is only designed to power one guitar - so what happens when you try connecting 2 guitars - I would think the POD would not be able to supply sufficient power for both. So any A/B box would only be able to power one Variax at a time, and when you switch from one to the other it would effectively simulate physically unplugging one and plugging in the other. The POD is also designed to only see one Variax connection - so it would not be able to manage two simultaneously connected - but it can handle physically disconnecting one and reconnecting another - so an A/B box could be built to physically switch the input between the 2 connected Variaxes. Each Variax would be powered on/off each time it is switched to and from, and the POD would see a different Variax being connected each time the A/B switch was pressed. I would imagine that this may introduce some latency as powering off and powering on a Variax is not instantaneous and the POD takes a little time to recognise the new device. There is also the fact that powering on/off a Variax many times during a performance may not be good for it long term - particularly if you swap guitars a lot. Just my thoughts on the subject. I wonder if anyone has actually experimented with building a VDI A/B selector box?

Did the Vax 700 Acoustic come with it's own outboard power supply - like the power supply A/B box combo that was supplied with the standard Variax 700? In other words - do you still have the stand alone power source and standard 1/4 jack cable connectivity for the Vax 700 acoustic? If you do still have the ability to run the Vax 700 Acoustic stand alone without using a VDI connection from a POD then why don't you use the VDI connection to power and control the JTV59 and then plug the Vax 700 Acoustic in standalone to the GUITAR IN on the HD 500X. Then set up your patches to either use VARIAX input or GUITAR input depending on which one you will play. The only downside will be that the pod patch won't be able to change the guitar model patch on the Vax 700 acoustic. If you want to be able to connect both JTV59 and Vax 700 acoustic via VDI and have the ability to automatically change guitar models when you change HD500X patches then I believe you will need two VDI capable pods. I am certain that Line 6 do not make an A/B box that supports two VDI connections into one for the HD500X and I have not seen any posts from forum members saying that they had built anything like that.

What are your INPUT 1 and INPUT 2 values? Are all your fx blocks in the PATH A with none before the split and none after the mixer block? Have you set PATH B to MUTE in the mixer block? Are you using HD500 FX RETURN L/MONO socket for your return signal from the amp? What is the MIX value set to in the FX LOOP block? It should be 100% to avoid any flange type effect from signals being slightly out of synch. What happens when you increase the FX LOOP RETURN value? Does it improve the situation or does it make no difference?

That is bad news and bad luck for you - to have ordered 4 and have such problems with each one - statistically I would have thought that at least one of those would have been a near perfect example. How did these guitars get past Line6 QC and how can so many lemons be in the same batch from one vendor? I am thankful that the JTV59 and the JTV69 that I have did not have any such issues.

Really sorry to hear that you have had 3 bad examples sent to you. I cannot believer your supplier is not checking them thoroughly before sending them out to you - I would have thought after 2 returns they would have made sure you got a perfect example for your 3rd. It should not be happening - there are good JTVs out there. Has your supplier stated that these were "B Stock" or ex-display or something - or are they saying these are brand new unused factory examples?

And remember one XLR is only half the total signal (either the L or the R half of the signal depending on which you have used) at MIC level - but just one 1/4 is both L+R signals summed at LINE level if that is where the switch is set - so that makes the output volume difference even greater.

The other thing to remember is that the XLR outs are at MIC level and the 1/4 inch outs can be switched to LINE level or AMP level using the switch next to the expression pedal on top of the HD unit. So you have to adjust the desk input trim according to which of these you are using and where you have the 1/4 inch switch set. Using the 1/4 inch out set to LINE gives you the loudest output signal. Both XLRs outs will still sound a fair bit lower in volume than just one 1/4 inch out at LINE because they are designed to be mic level and boosted as needed by the input channel pre-amp trim control.

To be 100% certain - I would suggest you try taking both L + R XLR outs and using 2 channels and then just taking the L or the R XLR and using one channel and see if it makes any noticeable difference to the end result. If you can hear a difference or prefer one option over another then you will have your answer. Personally, if I was using the XLR outs, then I would take both L and R to ensure I always captured both parts of the output signal - even if they were identical in most cases - because then if I decided to include a stereo effect or if I inadvertently added a stereo effect I would not have to worry about whether I was losing half the output signal in my output routing.

The POD converts the guitar signal to digital and then back to analog and with no fx or amp sims selected will lose about 6db of the signal strength - so comparing it to a guitar going direct in to an amp - it will sound quieter and therefore weaker and thinner. The first thing you need to do is select an output mode and stick with it and then adjust the straight through guitar signal so it sounds the same as when the guitar goes direct. This will usually involve using an fx block for an EQ fx or the VIntage PRE fx and boosting the signal - or just boosting the signal at the mixer block. Try this with each output mode and see which you prefer and then stick with that and tweak it. Remember the output modes are effectively just applying a master EQ curve to the final output to adjust for whatever amplification you are using. The COMBO and STACK FRONT settings allow you to tweak that EQ curve as they provide controls for high, low and mid focus, which will help when going straight into an amp by allowing you to compensate for the amps own pre-amp. If you go in via the amps fx return or directly into the amps power amp then you should be fine with the other COMBO/STACK settings or STUDIO DIRECT. Remember that STUDIO/DIRECT will include the cab's mic and air simulation if an amp/cab combo is selected - in other words you will get a mic'd up amp sound going into the amp rather than a direct guitar signal - so it will sound different - but if you are not using the amp or cab sims then it should not make any difference to you - so experiment and find whatever setting suits you best. Also check the setting of the slider switch next to the foot pedal marked 1/4 out - set it to AMP if going into the input jack on a front of an amp which will ensure the POD output matches instrument level and won't overdrive the input of the amp - but if you are going into the power amp or fx return you may need to switch it to LINE to boost the output signal t the correct level for the input chosen on the amp.

+1 to Dutchguitarist You can choose to have it in either pedalboard mode patch change mode. Default is patch change indicated by ABCD in the setup screen - if you change this to FS5-8 then all 8 FS can be used to toggle on/off individual fx blocks. You can still change patches by using the bank up/down foot switches.

I bought a black JTV69 at a sale price last year - a good 30% off RRP - it was old stock - it had the old firmware - but other than that nothing wrong with it. A few slight tweaks to have it set up perfectly and I have a fantastic modelling guitar at a great price. I already have a JTV59 TSB - so now I have a back up that also has a trem! My advice is to go ahead and buy one - if you have any problems with it send it back and get it exchanged - and do this until you end up with one you are happy with without faults - hopefully the first one you get will be fine anyway - whatever happens, you will end up with a fantastic guitar at a bargain price! Plus - if you don't like it you can always send it back and have a refund! There is nothing to lose in this scenario - it's a win win!

From your exhaustive experimentation and description it sounds like you have a faulty JTV69 - and in my opinion you would be best to send it back and get a new one - and take MF up on their offer that they will keep sending you replacements until you are happy - wow what an offer! There are excellent JTVs out there - plenty of people have reported having JTVs they are very happy with on this forum - so chances are you will get a good one sooner or later - so send it back and get a new one because the electronic problems you have with this one are not going to magically fix themselves. Good luck and I hope the next one is a keeper! :)

I bought one of the JTV69's at discount price last year - it turned out to be old stock from the serial number and firmware level installed - but fortunately for me it had no problems - just needed a set up and all was fine. Looks like you have been sent a bad one - so I would ask them to send you another one. You should not settle for one that has such glaring problems. It happens with all guitars - some duds slip through QC - but believe me there are plenty of JTVs that are absolutely fine - so request a new one. Good luck - hope you get a perfect example!

You really should not notice much difference between the VDI and 1/4 inch outputs from the JTV - so if you are getting white noise through the 1/4 inch as well as the model and mag sounds then that sounds like a problem with the JTV's hardware and you should send it in to Line 6 to be fixed. As davidb7170 has mentioned - in Workbench HD you can choose to BLEND the models and mags for each model position - by default this should be set so there is no blend but form what you are describing perhaps your JTV has that BLEND set on for every model which is why you always hear the actual physical strings in std tuning through the mags whilest playing an alternate tuning through a model - plus it also explains why you don't hear much difference between the models and mags when using standard tuning - it's because the mags are always part of the sound you are hearing. To verify this you need to connect your JTV up to Workbench HD which you can do through the HD500. At the bottom centre of the screen you will see the MAG BLEND setting for the model patch you are on. You may need to go through each one and ensure there is NO BLENDING taking place. Also - try reflashing several time - some times just the action of reloading the firmware several times can mysteriously fix things. If that still does not fix it then definitely send it back to Line 6 to be repaired. I would send it back anyway as it should not have been set up from the factory in this way - but it sounds like there is a hardware failure.

Just spotted my first JTV69 being played in a professional situation by the guitarist in Neil Diamonds backing band on UK national TV, during The Graham Norton show on Friday 10th October 2014. It was lake placid blue with the unmistakable white JTV69 scratch plate, but he has swapped the neck for a Fender one because it clearly had a fender headstock. Haven't got the video but I am sure it will probably be available via BBC iplayer or you-tube.

Not that I am aware of - but if anyone knows then I would sure like to know how to make it easier. I have just had to put up with standing up and using my full weight to push down the EXP toe switch.

You have to tweak the patch settings to make it sound good at volume. So ideally you have to play it at the required volume and adjust to taste. Typically you will need to boost the mids and lower the low bass and highs. At low volumes we will boost bass and highs and lower mids - that's just the way our hearing works - we can't hear the bass and highs so well at low volume. So when we move to gig level volume we have to boot the mids and lower the bass and highs to compensate. Good luck - hope you tweak it to your taste!

If you are thinking of buying now is a great time to get a fantastic deal! Many retailers are offering 30% off list price and there is a £100 or $150 dollar mail in rebate which Line 6 are offering on top of that! There has never been a better time to buy a brand new JTV at such a good price (excluding scratch and dent deals of course!).

I know! This is crazy! I wish I had waited to buy my JTV69. I bought it last year when they were offering only certain stock at a 30% discount and when it arrived I discovered it was old stock based on the serial number and the fact that it had firmware v1.71 installed. Looks like this offer is on the current stock models! Now is the time to buy one! Or to buy a second or third as spares ..... I can feel the GAS building ...... step away from the PC now ........ :D LOL

You are right - they are pretty much identical - the JTV59 (second clip) is just a little brighter than the JTV69 (first clip). I notice it more when I compare them at volume through my L2m. I don't think anyone would be able to hear a difference in a mix - you have to really listen carefully to notice it - but it is barely noticable

Your ears are very good!