pianoguyy

I just read your post in another topic saying that you used an amp... Think of the GEQ as the equalizer on your amp. You design your sound with everything at 5 (or 0 if you have a +/- knob). You go to a room and need a bass boost because the room is clustered, so you turn your bass knob to 7. BOOM, you are fixed. But, in the next room, 7 gives too much bass because the room is padded. So you turn it back to 5 and raise the treble. THAT is what Global EQ is. It doesn't design sound. It compensates it.

FRFR, essentially IS a pa system. It is Full Range and Flat Response. Meaning, it has no personality of its own. **the difference between a Fender and Marshall? Personality** So, yes, a stage monitor will work because they are designed to have no personality. While I have never used a Tech 21, I have heard that they have no personality.

Where is it ---- in the control panel. Page 11 and 12? Not found in a patch. It is hidden up where you have the other global settings. Now, the reason I said it should be turned off the majority of the time: It is GLOBAL. I like to call it a MASTER EQ, sort of like Master Volume. People seem to understand that a little easier. There are patch volumes, and then there is the master volume. Patch volumes control the differences between one patch and the other. While the master volume controls all of them. If one patch is too loud, you don't use the Master Volume to turn it down, do you? Of course not, Master Equalizer is the same thing. You don't use it to correct a patch, you use it to correct the overall situation. It is that last bit of overall sound. Much like the Master Volume, the Global EQ is something that you set once per room at the start of the night and then do not touch again until you change rooms. Turn the GEQ off when you design your patches. That way, your unit is 'flat'. You want a patch eq to control the differences from one patch to another. The GEQ comes later. As a performing musician, I am sure that you know that your gear sounds different in this room than it does in that room. The Master EQ can do "room shaping", which means it can adjust for those differences. And it changes the sound of the overall machine. Much like turning the Master Volume up, it is something that can accommodate various needs. You can imagine setting a GEQ and then building a patch. And then, maybe changing the GEQ to build another patch. Your first patch will now sound like junk. The GEQ should be off. Your unit should be flat. And then, after you have everything just the way you need it, you pack your stuff and go to another venue --- that is where the GEQ comes in. Your Church doesn't sound like your house. (although, the equalizer on the mixing board could also do the same thing as your GEQ).

You can harmonize your guitar. You can harmonize your mic. How good of a harmonizer is it? That depends on what you need it for. There are units that are better, but they are dedicated devices and cost as much, if not more, as your Pod. Test it out first.

First and foremost, the global eq should be off the majority of the time. *more to come in the next post, I just wanted to emphasize that point first.

Assuming you are using stereo headphones direct from the pod... Did you check the mixer settings? I mean the mixer within the patch, not the external mixing board. You can find left/right and volumes there. I don't use the fx loop, so I don't know how it works. But I wonder if where you have the fx loop positioned in the chain may have a mono-summing result?

TO UNZIP typically, you would right-click and go to 'unzip' the exact procedure is dependent upon your system and all of the various programs that are on it. *it may be possible to click the zip, as if you were going to open it, and have the process happen *it may be possible to drag the file out of the zipped folder *you may need to decompress instead of unzip *i haven't a clue how it works on apple

Thank you for clearing that up :rolleyes: Regardless of it being 4 or 400, or how it gets configured, the rest of my statement still applies. I am not spending money on a unit when I already have a unit.

Not a chance in Hell. I have a totally functional unit, why would I buy something. Why would I even watch videos. Had my unit not been enough for me, I wouldn't have bought it in the first place. I would just assume buy 16 individual rack units to build the perfect machine for all of my needs, than I would buy a product that I don't like and doesn't do what I need. I bought a product, I am happy with the product, I am keeping the product. All new products be damned, until the point comes when I need to replace a malfunctioning unit. And then, I just read a post that said asked for the maximum amount of fx blocks, and the response was - you could get as little as FOUR depending on which ones they are. SCREW THAT! However, as to your 15% statement ---- As been mentioned before, watching a crappy YT video, shot with crappy MT cameras, that was edited with crappy MW software, coming through crappy PC speakers -- you have no clue what it is going to sound like when played through a 100,000 watt pa system for a crowd of 30,000 tearing up a football field screaming your name.

I am going to give one of those "says a lot, but says nothing" answers... I always, and suggest others always, run two channels to the pa. On the board, one channel is left and one channel is right. It is then up to me and my programming to use or not to use the left/right separation if I want it. For some songs I do, for some songs I don't. But because I am already plugged in to the board with L/R, it works when it needs to work. Of course, the majority of locals don't have space on the board for two channels, nor should they be running in stereo. **Dual amps don't have to run left/right. Sometimes the mixing of the two together is what makes them sound great.

There are plenty of units that can do better then the pod. Since I do not know EVERY unit on the face of the planet: I am going to assume that they are all dedicated devices who's sole purpose is to do harmony. And they are going to cost as much, if not more, than the pod. If you have a Pod, and are looking for better --- I would not bother looking at things like Boss and Dod.

It depends on what you are using it for. Most people use them to reduce 'line hiss'. Something that is natural sounding, that you don't even know is there. Some people want it as an effect. Sort of like Buckethead and his kill switch.

I am certainly no CT expert. But I believe that the Humbucker Icon denotes GUITAR. I have seen other icons listed. But, I pay no attention to that stuff. If a file sounds like lollipop, I get rid of it.

Heat and sunlight shouldn't cause any issue, other than heat and sunlight that would damage other electronics. So, if it is so hot that you can fry an egg on the pavement --- don't sit your Pod on the ground. But it would change the entire unit, not just one specific patch. HOWEVER, it is possible that there is a minor issue with the Pod and some heat helped to bring it out, whereas it wouldn't have affected a normally functioning unit. Think of your car. A small oil leak isn't a problem. But when you redline for an hour, the hole in the metal expands causing it to be more than just a slow drip.

But when you realize that music theory also includes knowing where you sit in an orchestra pit, and the reasons why you do it that way ---- I don't think you need a Masters.

Well, yeah, a little theory can't hurt. When trying to program a smart harmony, and it asks you for the key and interval --- it helps to know what you need.

The Key of A Major, is also the Key of F# Minor. As far as the notes ---- B Major and F# Major has those notes. And without putting them up on paper to see the staff --- I don't know another key off the top of my head. But it wouldn't be Bb, it would be A#. Harmonizer questions need handled by someone else.

You have a choice of pedal modes. 1-8 and 1-4/5-8 1-8 will be individual on/off switches. 1-4/5-8 is when you can use 1-4 for on/off and 5-8 as preset selectors. You DO NOT have to assign a loop on your pod to use your amp loop. You would only need to assign the loop if you were using a loop on the pod. You standard out jacks can go in to the amp loop. It really depends on how you intend on using it.

If I am "on the road" or in a studio for a major project, strings get changed quite often. Like after a couple hours of use. But someone does it for me. If I am just hanging around, I rarely change strings. Tone comes my fx, I don't need new strings to sound 'purdy'. Especially if they are one of the ones that don't get used often. I have guitars with strings that are a couple years old. When I need to do a setup/adjustment/repair. Or if they start to play funny. That is when I will change them. Lasting longer from dirt is different than lasting longer from breakage. Coated strings will last longer as far as the effects of dirt on tone. But strings break. No amount of wax is going to stop that -- especially, as we suspect, there is a hardware issue.

A LOT!!! I can't speak for others, but I am always involved with multiple projects. Sometimes, it's a long-term thing where I can save patches and reuse them over and over (but I still need a PC and EDIT to transfer them in). But other times it is a one-off in the studio and every day working with someone new who needs their own set of sounds.

You kind of hit the nail on the head. It really depends on what sound you are trying to get. Personally, I would put the U before delays and reverb --- but that is the sound that I would try to get. Right now, your Uvibe is vibing and the delays and reverbs are doing their 'echo' of that sound. If you put the Uvibe last, then the echoes would be echoing but the vibe would be vibing them. It would make sense to sync the timing. But it would probably cause the music to be bland. Something that was obviously computerized. Instead of something that is more natural sounding. Again, it just depends on what you are looking for. I like my echo to be natural, like playing dry in a large empty room. Except when I want them to be an effect that isn't natural sounding. ***** BUT, if you think about it --- The old spinning Leslie Speakers. Any reverb that went into them got rotated just like everything else. No one seemed to mind, so putting a vibe at the end would be no different.

That is how elite it is. A google search shows it as something else. It is a whale. It is also Caviar. Or Vodka. And I am sure there is a whole host of other things, like a new model of airplane, that it could be.

I have a 500, I don't have this problem. Nor have I ever had a problem with bundles from the 500x going into my 500. I don't have the 500x, so I don't know if this is a common problem or unique to you, therefore I don't know if this solution is for your problem or just for the initial problem that it was created for ---- After you load a bundle, do a global reset. Yes, you will need to calibrate your expression pedal and all that other jazz. But that is what people have been told to do to get the setlist names after the recent update. It could be just for the update, or it could be a flaw in the update that will be updated soon. It may work, it may not work. Or, before you do it, you could wait to see what others have to say.

As someone who used his last rig for 20+ years, my biggest fear with this new fangled gadgetry is that I will need to upgrade my rig because it no longer operates on my computer. I am going to have a hard enough time buying another L6 product because of my issues with the parent company. But if I have to replace a fully functioning unit because they refuse to keep up with the interoperability --- then the power of the spoken/typed word will have to be unleashed.

Which kind of sucks being that it is 2015. BUT, the old Leslie Speakers that everyone loves were the same way. Fast, slow, or off. If you think about it, we can only do stereo, there is no actual rotation. There is no 5.1 surround. No 360 audibility. The best we can do is left and right. Some of the panning and tremolo effects can offer the same sound as a rotating speaker.