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Everything posted by bassguy129

  1. I had the thought of using a MIDI controller, but I would really need something with scribble strips. My live patches are pretty much anything from 6-8 snapshots for each song, anywhere from 4-6 songs in a set. While there are some overlaps, they all have special snapshots per song for varying parts. It would just get confusing to try and remember what's what without a label.
  2. Hey, all. So I've recently been using my Helix for my live rig, with one output going to a power amp for my stage volume, and another output with an IR on it for my in ear monitors. The more I've been using this kind of rig, the more I'm worried somebody is going to spill a beer on my Helix, step on it, etc. I was thinking about getting a Helix Control to use on the downstage edge, and leaving the Helix itself upstage behind my amp. Are there any complications with using the Control and the Floor at the same time, or will the Control only work with the Helix Rack?
  3. Amp modeling is only to be used when using a real amp is not practical, rare as those occasions may be. Simulated amps and cabs are never as good as the real thing, no matter what the manufacturer claims. amp modeling is mostly a sales gimmick and doesn't serve much purpose in the real world. No one uses amp modeling for live performance. My reaction to these statements: Dude needs to get with the 21st century, for real.
  4. I had the same issue. I could push down, but my rotary function crapped out. Definitely seems like L6 got a bad batch or straight up cheaped out on these joystick units.
  5. You can't get the exact thing, but you can get fairly close with combining drives + EQ. Matt of Rosetta and Atomium Amps did a great technical writeup of the HM-2, which you can use to decide which models to use. FWIW, I got fairly close with the Stupor OD followed by the 10 band graphic with 1K almost dimed. Play around and see what works best for you
  6. +1 to a hum eliminator. I had the exact same problem, and an isolation transformer fixed it. I picked up the Behringer version for something like $20, and it worked perfectly.
  7. As brue58ski said above me, it doesn't hurt to try. I have a hardware bass DI from MXR which is fairly similar to the Darkglass, and it actually gives a pretty useable super-clean tone. A very fender-y type tonestack feel, but with pretty much no drive. I can only assume the darkglass would be able to achieve the same result
  8. Just go to a new patch and save over the patch you're trying to clear without changing anything
  9. Not really. Hendrix used amps like the 1200s and other tube amps, while the late-era, but pre-Fender Sunn stuff was all solid state. Theyre known for being super powerful and having a unique transistor-y distortion, which when used outside of the stoner-y genres of heavy music, is arguably pretty bad.
  10. Sunn and Big Bottom amps, as well as the darkglass pedal = !!!!!!
  11. A tip I've found to work in the past with touchy tuners is to roll down your guitars tone knob, if it has one. The fewer harmonics the tuner is getting at it's input, the more accurate it is to the strings fundamental.
  12. I think that'd be hard to accomplish due to the fact that each mix will have different EQ needs. I would treat a shimmery clean much differently than a ballz-to-the-wall metal tone.
  13. Theyre not in the editor, or any kind of global settings. They seemed to just be wiped out, entirely. All of the block and signal paths were there, but none of the changes that go from snap to snap
  14. I have-ish. I restored it to manual recall, as that's how I had it prior to the update, but as full rows of snaps, no stomps.
  15. When I ran the Helix into my poweramp (Crown XLS1002) using the PV model, it was quite bright, maybe even a touch more than my old 5150II
  16. Just a tagalong question: I saved my set as a bundle (don't really need the newest factory presets), and when I loaded it up, all of my snapshots were gone. I just had to go through and rebuild/rename all of them. Any idea why this happened? Do snapshots not save past a firmware update, not save in a bundle, or did I possibly go about something incorrectly?
  17. The Miku Hatsune pedal, obviously :lol: But seriously, the one thing I'd really, really like to see is a gain reduction meter for the comps, and possibly the gates. Using your ear to get a comp dialed in is definitely the right way to go, but knowing exactly how much is being shaved off with each hit would be really nice. With the gates it could be useful because it'd be a good visual representation of exactly when and how fast the gate is acting, as it can sometimes be a little hard to tell where the "sweet spot" is with very high gain tones.
  18. And here's another angry guy who can't scroll. Luckily can still move in all directions and push to select, but not being able to scroll is annoying. Any updates on this?
  19. I made my own from scratch. For live use, I use the Helix in 4CM with my amp, the Helix supplying all FX both in front of the amp and in the loop, and the amp providing the actual tones. I needed a loom, so I figured I'd have a go at doing it myself. I kind of "inherited" a reel of raw 1/4 cable and a slew of connectors, both straight and right-angle. I cut out three 30' pieces, and bought a 30' length of XLR cable and two TRS connectors, one straight and one right-angle. I also had a very long (around 50'-60') XLR cable that I made previously. I bought a 25' piece of tech-flex and put them all in together after plugging them all into the Helix, so all of the cables at the unit end are made to length with little to no excess for a clean look. I color coded them all after finishing the loom, and put on a strain relief clip on the amp end. I don't have any good pictures of the loom itself, but I have a few of the cables in the Helix. You kind of see it in action here, with a bunch of other stuff plugged into the power strip The only other thing that was added that's not in the top two pictures is a right-angled IEC connector which leads to a power strip mounted on my pedalboard. For a live show, I just unlid the Helix, plug in the power strip, run the loom from my amp to the Helix, make all the connections, and I'm good to go.
  20. I'm thinking that's the route I should go. I've seen a few gut pics online, and it seems like the socket is fairly unencumbered by any PCBs, or anything. It also looks like a standard clip system as opposed to soldering, so the replacement should be fairly quick.
  21. So, I returned from tour just over a week ago, and yesterday went to the practice space to pick up a few things to bring home, my Helix included. The last day of tour we packed the trailer differently due to some gear being left in a different city (long story), so my Helix was put in a different position than before. Every previous pack, it sat on top of my amp head on it's bottom, as such (with the lid on, of course): The last day, however, it sat on the cases side, so all of the I/O connections were face down. Well, somewhere in transport, the 3M dual lock that was holding the helix to the board let go, and it smashed the IEC into the socket. I didn't even notice this until I took the IEC out to reset the Helix back onto the board, and then the cable would't go into the socket. This is what I was met by: I'm 99.9999% sure that this isn't covered by warranty, so my options now seem to be to take it to an "authorized repair center", the closest of which is an hour and 20 minutes away, or to fix it myself. Replacing an IEC socket isn't hard in and of itself, but getting to the part is what worries me. Having to possibly take out PCB components to get to it is very no bueno, to me. What do you guys think my course of action should be? The repair center obviously stands out as the best choice, but the time and cost involved may be a bit much for me, at the moment.
  22. There's only one real answer, here: :P
  23. But that would take my clean channel OD and pad out from being in front of the amp
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