specracer986

Thanks for the replies. I'll attempt to fix this later today. But I'm still confused about one thing. Can I update the editor without doing another firmware update to the floor unit? Or, do I have to do the firmware again and rebuild my IR's again? When I go in to the thread pinned to the top of this forum that says Latest Helix Editor (2.10), and click on the provided link, it takes me to a page that says there is no archived software available. The beta section has a link for version 1.11. There has to be an easier way to organize this update procedure.

I used the Line 6 Updater, so I assumed I was getting both. The editor shows version 2.10. Should I try loading the editor separately? Should I not have the Helix floor unit connected when I do? I'd hate to have to redo my IR list again.

My Helix floor unit updated the firmware correctly, and my editor shows 2.10. But when I opened the new amp patches for the "Line 6 Litigator" and Archtype Clean and Archtype Lead, the amp blocks are empty in the editor. If I try to add an amp to that block, the new amps are not available as an option. On the floor unit the amp blocks show the correct amp and they are available in the amp list as an option. The patches seem to work fine, so it appears that the editor didn't update fully. Since the amp blocks are empty, I can't edit the amps with the editor. I didn't think to look for the new od pedal, to see if it was available as an option. The unit is at my office, so I'll have to check tomorrow for the pedal.

Just drop the individual presets you want back into Helix. I believe it will take care of converting them.

Here's a pic of my Warmouth neck mounted on the Variax, and one of the decal I had made for it.

I didn't bother calling Warmouth, I just ordered what I wanted online. I got it installed today. It feels great. The bubinga fret board is smooth as silk. I'll get to plug in later tonight and take an extended test drive. Just waiting on a Variax decal to put on the headstock and complete the project.

He's one of the top shops in L.A. and 7 to 14 days is his usual turn around time. I've gotten used to the wait, knowing that what I get back is always the way I wanted it. Which is not what I got with the three shops I used before him. From my Bubinga file, the new neck laying on it's new mate.

I got my Warmouth neck today. Five weeks from order. Damn is this beautiful, mahogany, with bubinga fret board, 6150SS frets and a black Earvana Tusq nut. Two way truss rod with their standard slim profile and compound radius board. I can't wait to get it on my JTV69. The bubinga is smooth like silk and beautiful color and grain. I'll post a pic when I get a chance. I'm going to have a luthier put it on the guitar, so I probably won't get it back for 10 days or more. I'm really stoked about it now that I've seen and felt it.

Beautiful neck and guitar. I'm anxious to get my Warmouth neck and hopefully make my JTV a daily player.

Considering how many different woods, finishes and profiles Warmouth offers, I doubt they keep very many necks in stock. It will be interesting to see how long it takes to get my order, which included non drilling the mounting holes. Three and a half weeks and counting.

I'll try the ring modulator. It was on my list to try.

Well, I did say just in the ballpark. Thanks for the suggestions. I'll work on it some more tonight. Last night I used a compressor, filter and OD, and got something that sounds like a horn being played with a hand cover. Not sure what the term for that is. Kind of weird but it works. I'll keep it till I get something better.

I'm doing a song with the band that has a sax solo. We don't have a sax player and I want to get something in the ballpark out of my two humbucker guitar. The song has a very clean verse and chorus. The sax sound is very bluesy. Any suggestions on what pedals / amp to use? I'll be messing with it myself, but I figured someone might have already done this. My Helix is going into a Yamaha DXR12, if that matters. Thanks.

The specs for the frets are: 6105 - .90 x .055 6150 - .102 x .042 So 6150 are a little wider and shorter than the 6105. I can live with either one. I measured my Variax at .106 x .062, a little too wide and tall for me. If you're going to gamble on the tuner holes, I'd suggest ordering the smallest bore, then your luthier can enlarge them, like you said.

Very nice. Where did you get the decal? I've had various one's made off of ebay, and might do the same thing, as I don't like a blank headstock. I ordered my Warmouth replacement neck three weeks ago. I'm not sure how much longer I have to wait, but I'm assuming another couple of weeks. I ordered: Modern Construction Mahogany shaft wood Bubinga fret board 1 11/16" Earvana Black Tusq nut Standard Thin Profile 22 - SS6150 Frets Schaller ream, along with the tuners Dot Mother of Pearl Inlays Clear Satin No mounting holes The mahogany / bubinga combo was a bit of a gamble. Hopefully I'll like it.

I have a Warmouth neck being made for my JTV69. I went with the standard thin profile, mainly because the wizard profile has a very limited choice of woods. I guess because it's so thin, they won't take chances.

I think the OP is looking for differences if features and functions between various models, rather than firmware updates. Just my guess.

The best gig bag I've gotten came with one of my Carvin guitars. It's kind of a soft gig bag with semi firm padded sides, so it holds it's shape. It's the best of both worlds. It doesn't take up too much space, is light and easy to haul around, but gives more protection that a standard soft gig bag.

To the OP, was the lack of sustain the result of getting added compression with the models? That's what I'm finding, is a lot of the models seem to add compression and lower sustain. I haven't tried reflashing, but that may be in my future. As soon as I figure out how to do it, that is.

I put in my order to Warmouth. Now only 5 weeks of waiting. Piece of cake! :) I went with: Mahogany neck, Bubinga fret board, 10"-16" compound radius, slim taper profile, 6150 SS fret wire, 1 11/16" black Earvana Tusq nut, Schaller mini locking tuners, pearl dot inlays, no mounting holes. It bugs me a little that they charge $15 extra to not drill the mounting holes, but I'll get over it.

I have two Strats, one with maple/maple and one maple/rosewood. I've decided to go with a Warmouth mahogany replacement neck for my JTV69. My two choices for fret boards are Pao Ferro and Kingwood. According to Warmouth, Pao Ferro is a little less bright than ebony, and Kingwood a little less bright than Pao Ferro. I guess I'll put those names on my dart board and scientifically pick one.

Nice job! I'm going to stick with swapping out the neck. I might order a Warmouth neck today. I'm still going back and forth on a couple of options. Since I have two Strats with maple necks, I'm probably going to do my JTV69 with a mahogany neck, and pau ferro or kingwood FB.

Paul was a presenter at the Line 6 Helix class I went to a month or so ago. He was only using one cable at the time. Perhaps when he made this video he wasn't aware of a potential problem. We all live and learn, don't we?

Well, the weight of the different woods would be something to think about. I definitely don't want a neck heavy guitar. Warmouth doesn't mention which woods are heavier, and I didn't know Rosewood was heavy since it seems somewhat porous compared to maple or ebony. I guess I'll have to look into that more. Walnut and maple is quite a combination. I probably never would have thought of that one. Nice looking guitar.

I have a JTV69 that I want to replace the neck on. It's a little too chunky, the frets a little too high and I really prefer SS frets. I had a Warmouth roasted maple neck made for a Strat a couple of years ago and it's a beautiful neck. So I'll probably do a Warmouth build again. I'll be getting 6150 stainless steel frets, Earvana nut, compound radius with either their Wizard or Slim profile. My biggest question is which wood to use for the back and fretboard. I'm considering doing Rosewood back with Ebony fretboard. This would kind of be the opposite tone wise of what I have now, maple back and rosewood fretboard, but possibly give me a similar result. Another option is a Mahogany back with Ebony FB. Or, should I just play it safe and do the Maple back Rosewood FB? I could be happy with that, but I'm thinking of trying something different. And a related question I saw discussed on another thread, should I order without mounting holes drilled?