PierM

Relay is the wireless system from l6.

Page 41 of the manual;

Yikes... If he's on the right firmware, Im pretty sure it's a corrupted database, so I'd reset the unit again, restore original presets from 3.6, reset globals and rebuild all presets at next boot. At that point Id try to re import that preset. I would also avoid to restore any previous backup for this test. Sometimes just the reset isnt enough and you also need to wipe out every single bit from the unit database.

Is that cab working if you build your own presets? I assume it is, so instead going crazy trying to debug, why wouldnt you just copy the settings used by Jason for that cab, remove it, add it again from the cab list, and then apply those settings? At least this is what I would try in a similar situation.

Unfortunately that impedance circuit and the preamp on the Helix/HX does the miracle IME. I can really feel and hear the difference, especially in the dynamics available within the headroom offered by the hardware vs plugin. At input level parity, and same preset, the Helix hardware gives me the extra headroom I need, especially for the cleans that are more nervous with transients. That difference is also changing the way the amp block is reacting to the input driving its "tube" algorithm. Tried lot of audio interfaces, never managed to get the same result as with the Helix hardware. That's my experience with my tones and my guitars. So experience may vary. :) Would be really awesome to see a RME with something similar. :)

Helix windows drivers aren't really optimised for live VST/DAW, so the latency can be a problem for some people (like me). Since I moved to Mac Im no longer using L6 drivers, and only going with the Apple core audio and get a brilliant 3.6ms of RLT against almost 8ms with windows (and l6 drivers) at sampling/buffer parity. Also no more click and pops due random DPCs. I believe you need to find your priorities and build your own setup based on that. Native is a great solution if you want Helix tones and keep using your preferred audio interface with better drivers for live VST, such those from RME. On the other hand, if for some reason you really can't do without the auto impedance circuit offered by the Helix/HX (which is the core difference with any other standard audio interface out there), and you also need low latency round trip, then I'd consider moving to Mac. Also moving to Mac means not worrying much about the never ending OS optimisation for DAW usage that you must do on a PC. On my MacBook pro, I just turn off the WiFi, and it's ready to go. No hassle.

Read the silverhead answer. He gave you a solution. ;)

As I explained in other similar threads (unfortunately it's a common issue, especially for gigging musicians or heavy stompers), these units aren't using real footswitches, but actuators that are pushing against little tactile switches. These tactile switches (not only those in the helix) have a very common problem, which is called contact noise, or "switch bouncing". That noise does engage an high frequency series of false contacts while the circuit it's changing its status from open to closed, and viceversa. See the pic; As they wear out the problem becomes more and more evident, and the typical symptom is a random double action (contact friction on tap, and contact friction on release). This same problem is also the culprit for the classic tap/tempo glitch with the tempo jumping to maxed randomly. I also believe they didn't changed the switches, but only cleaned out with a deox spray, which can reduce the noise for some time (because does improve the conductivity)...but soon or later it will come back again, as you are experiencing. Only way to solve for good is to change the tactile switches, swapping them from the PCB with new ones. I'd avoid using the same part, as they are garbage. There are better tactile switches on the market, but you need a pro to make the job properly. :) Then, since these parts aren't really touring grade, try to keep the unit clean as much as you can, avoid dusty places, avoid high humidity and high temps etc etc.. :) PS: there are techniques to debounce the issue via hardware and even via software. I'd love to see L6 doing something about that.

The PC112+ XLR, when used as FRFR (no cab simulation), will send a Direct unprocessed signal straight to FOH. Just be sure to set the correct signal level at the XLR out, Mic or Line, depending what's the mixer FOH is asking. If you are in stereo, with two PC112+ and using a L6 link daisy chain, remember you will still need two XLR cables to FOH, one for each PC (left and right). When the PC is being used as cab sim, the XLR Out will send an emulation of that same cab, but with a mic emulation. You can pick the mic model in the Preset setting (IIRC stock is an SM57).

I honestly cant speak for the HD500, but I can assure you the Stomp wont do anything terrible to your signal. Doesnt do anything terrible to my real amps either. There'll be an ADA conversion, as happens with the HX FX. It will be fine. :) Just be sure to properly set the Stomp output to inst level if you'll be using it in front of the amp. (Global Settings)

Interesting. Always thought those serials were decals under the clear coat, so impossible to remove without sanding and repainting. At least this is how is done on my 2011 JTV. This is suspicious.

The main difference between HX FX and Stomp is that Stomp has an auto impedance circuit at the input as any other HX/Helix modeler of the family. You can turn it off and set your wanted impedance to be loaded. Imho shouldn't be any different than HX FX as soon as you don't do modeling within the Stomp. Also depends how you use it, and how you route the signal to the Stomp. (front of amp? 4CM? FX loop? etc etc). No idea what you meant with "like the pod hd 500 I had some years ago" tho. :)

Helix Native on an iPad Pro would be killer, better if standalone as a direct competitor with Bias Amp and FX II. Unfortunately, it wont happen.

Read the manual, then if something will be still foggy ask here. ;)

You can do stereo with both.

The HX Stomp does ignore redundant PCs, so nothing happens until you actually change preset.

Not sure I understand here, but if a PC is being received and matching the preset currently loaded it should be ignored already.

And the question is?

Yep, that's valid for every single Helix or HX device. The clock used for the sync is terrible.

Helix can only handle "passive" MIDI actions (that wont require internal MIDI/WAV data storage), that are already available via commands. What you are asking would require lot of extra memory (both non-volatile and volatile) that unfortunately isnt there.

It's in the manual. And yes, it can send and receive clock via USB and/or MIDI DIN.

If you are getting so many power supply failures I fear the problem isnt the power supply, but the quality of your house wiring...

Over here in Europe the correct model name is Line 6 DC-3h Power Supply (9VDC, 3000mA). https://www.musicstore.com/es_ES/EUR/Line-6-DC-3h-Power-Supply/art-GIT0054371-000?gclid=CjwKCAjw36GjBhAkEiwAKwIWyTU2ZLIq8jD_qKNsTSSPZ_7KTeTAf6l1Gpx3nQeLLc5nWsmv7FKh2xoChsAQAvD_BwE&campaign=GShopping%2FIT&ProgramUUID=ImjAqJarGRIAAAFl1OlyjI8x

I can confirm there is a bug on MacOS version that prevent HX Edit 3.5 to see the 3.6 update, and even if you manually install the HX Edit 3.6 it won't see the available 3.6 hardware update. Use the Line 6 Updater app for the hardware.

G10S is garbage. It's even worse then the smaller G10, as it uses a different system for the WiFi (even if using same freqs). I did a lot of tests, in exactly same environment with G10S, G10 and Boss W20L G10S drops out in Auto as well as in any other channel. Only way to make it working without drops is to use it in a desert. G10 much more stable (it does drop out but less often than G10S), even if you have no control on the channel. Seems to better tolerate a busy WiFi area. Boss WL-20L (grey one) it just works. Never had a drop out until now. Had the Boss WL-20 (the black one) with cable tone and returned as sounded awful for my ears, while the 20L (no cable tone) sounds spot on for my needs. They both works way better in a busy WiFi area than L6 relays. So these days my G10S is grabbing dust in a closet, and I only use either the Boss or the old G10 with a G10TII as the original one has been ruined by the firmware.