PierM

The PC112+ XLR, when used as FRFR (no cab simulation), will send a Direct unprocessed signal straight to FOH. Just be sure to set the correct signal level at the XLR out, Mic or Line, depending what's the mixer FOH is asking. If you are in stereo, with two PC112+ and using a L6 link daisy chain, remember you will still need two XLR cables to FOH, one for each PC (left and right). When the PC is being used as cab sim, the XLR Out will send an emulation of that same cab, but with a mic emulation. You can pick the mic model in the Preset setting (IIRC stock is an SM57).

I honestly cant speak for the HD500, but I can assure you the Stomp wont do anything terrible to your signal. Doesnt do anything terrible to my real amps either. There'll be an ADA conversion, as happens with the HX FX. It will be fine. :) Just be sure to properly set the Stomp output to inst level if you'll be using it in front of the amp. (Global Settings)

Interesting. Always thought those serials were decals under the clear coat, so impossible to remove without sanding and repainting. At least this is how is done on my 2011 JTV. This is suspicious.

The main difference between HX FX and Stomp is that Stomp has an auto impedance circuit at the input as any other HX/Helix modeler of the family. You can turn it off and set your wanted impedance to be loaded. Imho shouldn't be any different than HX FX as soon as you don't do modeling within the Stomp. Also depends how you use it, and how you route the signal to the Stomp. (front of amp? 4CM? FX loop? etc etc). No idea what you meant with "like the pod hd 500 I had some years ago" tho. :)

Helix Native on an iPad Pro would be killer, better if standalone as a direct competitor with Bias Amp and FX II. Unfortunately, it wont happen.

Read the manual, then if something will be still foggy ask here. ;)

You can do stereo with both.

The HX Stomp does ignore redundant PCs, so nothing happens until you actually change preset.

Not sure I understand here, but if a PC is being received and matching the preset currently loaded it should be ignored already.

And the question is?

Yep, that's valid for every single Helix or HX device. The clock used for the sync is terrible.

Helix can only handle "passive" MIDI actions (that wont require internal MIDI/WAV data storage), that are already available via commands. What you are asking would require lot of extra memory (both non-volatile and volatile) that unfortunately isnt there.

It's in the manual. And yes, it can send and receive clock via USB and/or MIDI DIN.

If you are getting so many power supply failures I fear the problem isnt the power supply, but the quality of your house wiring...

Over here in Europe the correct model name is Line 6 DC-3h Power Supply (9VDC, 3000mA). https://www.musicstore.com/es_ES/EUR/Line-6-DC-3h-Power-Supply/art-GIT0054371-000?gclid=CjwKCAjw36GjBhAkEiwAKwIWyTU2ZLIq8jD_qKNsTSSPZ_7KTeTAf6l1Gpx3nQeLLc5nWsmv7FKh2xoChsAQAvD_BwE&campaign=GShopping%2FIT&ProgramUUID=ImjAqJarGRIAAAFl1OlyjI8x

I can confirm there is a bug on MacOS version that prevent HX Edit 3.5 to see the 3.6 update, and even if you manually install the HX Edit 3.6 it won't see the available 3.6 hardware update. Use the Line 6 Updater app for the hardware.

G10S is garbage. It's even worse then the smaller G10, as it uses a different system for the WiFi (even if using same freqs). I did a lot of tests, in exactly same environment with G10S, G10 and Boss W20L G10S drops out in Auto as well as in any other channel. Only way to make it working without drops is to use it in a desert. G10 much more stable (it does drop out but less often than G10S), even if you have no control on the channel. Seems to better tolerate a busy WiFi area. Boss WL-20L (grey one) it just works. Never had a drop out until now. Had the Boss WL-20 (the black one) with cable tone and returned as sounded awful for my ears, while the 20L (no cable tone) sounds spot on for my needs. They both works way better in a busy WiFi area than L6 relays. So these days my G10S is grabbing dust in a closet, and I only use either the Boss or the old G10 with a G10TII as the original one has been ruined by the firmware.

My bet is; No and Yes.

A Helix Rack with wheels?

Yes it's normal. The top LCD on the Helix Rack foot controller isnt the same type as the scribble strips that are high contrast backlit. You can easily notice in any angled picture of the Control.

it's because you are doing the tap dance barefoot. Just wear shoes or turn the touch off. Read the manual. ;)

I do live in south Italy. In summer we can easily go way over 45°C (113F). Stomp has zero vent ports, it's a sealed metal black box, with a tight pancake of PCBs in the inside, so if that case goes hot, the ambient temperatures and ventilation are playing a vital role in the heat dissipation. Doesnt matter the block I use (i dont even use the amp modeling), it can gets really hot. It doesnt hang or crash for me, but still that fan it's there to prevent potential conductance issues and inductor overheating.

Im pretty confident the problem will disappear after the reset. :)

Ouch...enjoy it while it lasts!

The first cause of Helix/HX problems is....user errors. :) So it could be you were just missing something in your early attempts. When we help over here, we always assume you are doing all right, and that your systems are properly setup, but every time there is USB involved, a lot of extra variables are playing in the game... Fingercrossed. :)