PierM

UHF stays for Ultra High Frequency, and it's standard for professional grade wireless microphones, IEMs and guitars. At this point I strongly suggest to do a bit of research. :)

Not really. I can't see any real benefit. Your main enemy is WiFi pollution at 2.4Ghz, and also the fact your G10 will potentially fight each other for room. These are device for studio, or small stages with just 1 or 2 of these. Five of them, running in a place with a busy 2.4Ghz, will result in a very unstable and unpredictable situation, doesn't matter the mixer. For consistency you still need to go UHF, not really WiFi.

1) I mean setting your router power output for the 2.4Ghz at lowest possible level. Check your router manual to find that option, which is available to the majority of brands and models. If your netgear is close to the Soundcraft, setting its output power to minimum, will assure an optimal signal level for the Mixer, but it will drop at a shorter distance for everything else around, which means less WiFi pollution on the stage. 2) WiFI pollution is a problem for any Wireless system which works in the 2.4Ghz, and in exactly same Channels used by any other WiFi device. The G10S offer 11 Channels, and Auto function, which will scan for less busy channel and connect to it. This happens only when Transmitter is connected to its base. It's important that you check every single base before to unplug the transmitters, to check if the left bar is showing a single solid Red Led. Two Red Leds, means the channel used by this station is a little busy. Three solid reds means this channel is very busy and will cause signal drops. If you have a WiFi scanner (even an app is fine), you could check the less busy Channel@2.4Ghz, and assign these channels to your receivers manually. Do not assign the same channel to all yours receivers, but try to give them a free channel each, better if there is another channel in the middle. Like for example; if Receiver 1 is on Channel 4, set Receiver 2 on Channel 6 or Channel 2 (if these are not too busy by other SSID). Let me say that you took a risky path buying five units, as these systems are very picky with Channel traffic, Noise, and Bandwidth overlapping. For busy stages you need pro grade UHF units, not really WiFi 2.4Ghz consumer stuff. :) Should they work on a consistent basis? No. It will always depend on the local WiFi pollution, and in the actual Channel assignment. You can improve that consistency by reducing pollution (like the power output trick on the router), shutting down WiFi on everything you don't need to use, and checking Channel quality with the 3 left leds on the receivers, and also with a WiFi scanner running on a Mac, a PC, or a Tablet/Smartphone. In my experience with these units, you want 1 solid red led when Transmitter is plugged, and 3 green leds when Transmitter is in use, with an acceptable blinking of the first green led on the top. As soon as you see the green leds dropping and wobbling to much, you know this channel is being too busy, or too noisy, and it will probably cause audio drops. Remember that, when you turn on your receivers, you want ALL transmitters, to be plugged in their receivers, and you need to wait for them to scan for the best channel. Since you have 5 of them, they will fight a bit so, again, keep an eye on the left leds and manual assign their channels if needed. Another trick could be to let receivers finding channels one at time, to reduce bandwidth overlapping between them at minimum. Let me post a screenshot of a WiFi scanner application (in this case my house), to show you how does look a very typical situation these days. You see how many device are present in the area (these are either routers, printers and anything else generating a SSID), and the channels they are using. You can also see how each device does take more than a channel, because of the wide bandwidth. You wouldn't want your G10s connecting to those busy channels, so having the scanner it will help you solving the most problematic stages or rooms (when Auto channel won't work as expected)...

Just pull it.

It's almost 3 years Win 11 is out, and L6 drivers (all of them) are still not compliant with Core Isolation. It's impossible to not turn off that function for W11 users (if they need to use these devices with USB), and telling them is L6 fault isnt helping much. ;) In real life, if you dont download warez hacks and cracks, watch porns 24/7 and open random links on random emails, there'll be no realistic ransomware risk.

Both transmitter and receiver will suffer from WiFi pollution, so the more the distance, the better. Setting router WiFi signal power to minimum (enough for a single floor average house) will also help. Isnt just the router that could interfere with G10s, but any WiFi device in the area, like Alexa, WiFi plugs and bulbs, Smart TVs, WiFi CCTVs, Smartphone WiFi, WiFi Printers etc etc..

THIS^^^ I do have E X A C T L Y the same behavior on my Stomp. Annoying as f***...especially because was perfect before this stupid ballistic code. (cant see the video, but the description is spot on). Unfortunately tech support didnt helped much...:/

In an electric guitar, the very first string points of contact are always much more important than body and neck. Nut, bridge saddles and tailpiece (when present) can really make the difference. A bad nut, (either too soft or too hard, or cut too deep ) can really suck away a ton of energy from string vibration, making the tone thin and muffled (I did miracles on few of my guitars just working on that area). Same for bad saddles Also quality of frets is important. This is valid for both mag and piezo. Said that, expecting a chunk neck or a chunk body, improving tone, is a very common mistake but I dont want to put my shoes into the tone wood can of worms...:)

When I had the Floor and then Rack, I stopped using my two PC+112 via Link due random un-links at the boot of one of the two Powercabs (typically the last). That really looked like a bug to me as never happened with my old L2Ts.

These reports of faulty knobs after update can be related to the ballistic code they added/changed in this firmware. I do also have a glitchy knob after 3.5, which was working flawless before. Cant be just another coincidence...:)

We do know and we do mostly agree; the download page is sloppy and unnecessarily convoluted, and the front page OS indication is stuck on old gen operative systems. Yes, the firmware update procedure it can be a pain in the arse and can still randomly go wrong for some unclear reason, even for veteran users (like me, and happened more than once). But it is what it is, and L6 doesn't give a damn of what we say over here....so take a big breath, and follow the above indications. Good luck! :)

Many updates ago I also had that corrupted LCD after an Helix update, but I quickly and easily solved following those same advices. If you tried all the suggestions above, there is nothing more you can do. Contact support through a ticket.

Ask ChatGPT. Joking, but seriously, no way we can give you any advice with that post. Shrug...:)

That's the only difference I can think of between the two lines. You could also experience a very similar situation when comparing Helix to Native through the average audio interface. That impedance circuit at the input isn't a small aspect when it comes to headroom and available dynamics (which are more or less the same thing).

The difference in tone you were hearing was probably all related to the missing impedance circuit at the input of the HX FX, which is instead present in all the Helix/HX modeler family.

Everything you describe sounds normal and expected. Active devices, with an impedance load and a buffered circuit. Impossible to have them acting just like a cable when passing through them.

Before messing up with the hardware I'd also try different cables to see if there is a jack that works better with it. I'm saying that because I do have a cable that it's way easier to plug and unplug than the others, due (I guess) the slightly different shape of the tip/ring.

I do have a 2011 JTV59, and jack is still tight as hell... but actually I like it, feels like a solid connection.

Yep, but shorting a condenser (this is risky even when unit is turned off) or a diode, or a Sharc...would be probably worse. :)

Just open the unit and remove the thing. It could be a bolt, or a bit from the XLR lock systems...or any other metal bit that could easily short something on the PCB and damage the unit. Easy to solve. ;)

This is when you realize ChatGPT is useless to solve real life problems.

Hx and Helix arent sharing the same I/O hardware, so input/output blocks that are set in a preset for Rack, cant (and wont) translate properly.

As soon as you create your presets on the Rack, "emulating" the smaller HX unit, everything will be ported correctly. For example, if you need to make them 1:1 with HX Stomp, you need to respect path and block limitation (due the different DSP layout and different input/output block code), use only the first 3 FS on the controller (FS 1, FS2 and FS3), or also FS4 and FS5 if you have an external controller for the Stomp, etc etc... Another option is to use Helix Native in HX Stomp compatibility mode, which means you are almost 100% sure they will also mirror on the Rack (still input/output block code is different, so it may require some further editing - also FX loops aren't available). After that you could refine the preset assigning scribble strips and snapshots on HX Edit. The 3+2 footswitch on the Stomp preset will be ported to Helix Controller FS1 to FS5. In the case of LT they are pretty much same "core", and no scribble strips, so that would be a much easier porting.

Yep. I get the same 404 error from Italy, but can correctly see the product page if using a US Proxy.

There is no such thing as USB Send/Return block and I believe for a good reason, since this would add an awful extra round trip of latency and a potential mess since there wouldn't be clock lock between internal sampling and external. What you can do is to receive audio from USB (USB input block), or send audio to USB (USB output block). Or, you can have USB passing through the Helix signal through USB 1/2.