PierM

Just pull it.

It's almost 3 years Win 11 is out, and L6 drivers (all of them) are still not compliant with Core Isolation. It's impossible to not turn off that function for W11 users (if they need to use these devices with USB), and telling them is L6 fault isnt helping much. ;) In real life, if you dont download warez hacks and cracks, watch porns 24/7 and open random links on random emails, there'll be no realistic ransomware risk.

Both transmitter and receiver will suffer from WiFi pollution, so the more the distance, the better. Setting router WiFi signal power to minimum (enough for a single floor average house) will also help. Isnt just the router that could interfere with G10s, but any WiFi device in the area, like Alexa, WiFi plugs and bulbs, Smart TVs, WiFi CCTVs, Smartphone WiFi, WiFi Printers etc etc..

THIS^^^ I do have E X A C T L Y the same behavior on my Stomp. Annoying as f***...especially because was perfect before this stupid ballistic code. (cant see the video, but the description is spot on). Unfortunately tech support didnt helped much...:/

In an electric guitar, the very first string points of contact are always much more important than body and neck. Nut, bridge saddles and tailpiece (when present) can really make the difference. A bad nut, (either too soft or too hard, or cut too deep ) can really suck away a ton of energy from string vibration, making the tone thin and muffled (I did miracles on few of my guitars just working on that area). Same for bad saddles Also quality of frets is important. This is valid for both mag and piezo. Said that, expecting a chunk neck or a chunk body, improving tone, is a very common mistake but I dont want to put my shoes into the tone wood can of worms...:)

When I had the Floor and then Rack, I stopped using my two PC+112 via Link due random un-links at the boot of one of the two Powercabs (typically the last). That really looked like a bug to me as never happened with my old L2Ts.

These reports of faulty knobs after update can be related to the ballistic code they added/changed in this firmware. I do also have a glitchy knob after 3.5, which was working flawless before. Cant be just another coincidence...:)

We do know and we do mostly agree; the download page is sloppy and unnecessarily convoluted, and the front page OS indication is stuck on old gen operative systems. Yes, the firmware update procedure it can be a pain in the arse and can still randomly go wrong for some unclear reason, even for veteran users (like me, and happened more than once). But it is what it is, and L6 doesn't give a damn of what we say over here....so take a big breath, and follow the above indications. Good luck! :)

Many updates ago I also had that corrupted LCD after an Helix update, but I quickly and easily solved following those same advices. If you tried all the suggestions above, there is nothing more you can do. Contact support through a ticket.

Ask ChatGPT. Joking, but seriously, no way we can give you any advice with that post. Shrug...:)

That's the only difference I can think of between the two lines. You could also experience a very similar situation when comparing Helix to Native through the average audio interface. That impedance circuit at the input isn't a small aspect when it comes to headroom and available dynamics (which are more or less the same thing).

The difference in tone you were hearing was probably all related to the missing impedance circuit at the input of the HX FX, which is instead present in all the Helix/HX modeler family.

Everything you describe sounds normal and expected. Active devices, with an impedance load and a buffered circuit. Impossible to have them acting just like a cable when passing through them.

Before messing up with the hardware I'd also try different cables to see if there is a jack that works better with it. I'm saying that because I do have a cable that it's way easier to plug and unplug than the others, due (I guess) the slightly different shape of the tip/ring.

I do have a 2011 JTV59, and jack is still tight as hell... but actually I like it, feels like a solid connection.

Yep, but shorting a condenser (this is risky even when unit is turned off) or a diode, or a Sharc...would be probably worse. :)

Just open the unit and remove the thing. It could be a bolt, or a bit from the XLR lock systems...or any other metal bit that could easily short something on the PCB and damage the unit. Easy to solve. ;)

This is when you realize ChatGPT is useless to solve real life problems.

Hx and Helix arent sharing the same I/O hardware, so input/output blocks that are set in a preset for Rack, cant (and wont) translate properly.

As soon as you create your presets on the Rack, "emulating" the smaller HX unit, everything will be ported correctly. For example, if you need to make them 1:1 with HX Stomp, you need to respect path and block limitation (due the different DSP layout and different input/output block code), use only the first 3 FS on the controller (FS 1, FS2 and FS3), or also FS4 and FS5 if you have an external controller for the Stomp, etc etc... Another option is to use Helix Native in HX Stomp compatibility mode, which means you are almost 100% sure they will also mirror on the Rack (still input/output block code is different, so it may require some further editing - also FX loops aren't available). After that you could refine the preset assigning scribble strips and snapshots on HX Edit. The 3+2 footswitch on the Stomp preset will be ported to Helix Controller FS1 to FS5. In the case of LT they are pretty much same "core", and no scribble strips, so that would be a much easier porting.

Yep. I get the same 404 error from Italy, but can correctly see the product page if using a US Proxy.

There is no such thing as USB Send/Return block and I believe for a good reason, since this would add an awful extra round trip of latency and a potential mess since there wouldn't be clock lock between internal sampling and external. What you can do is to receive audio from USB (USB input block), or send audio to USB (USB output block). Or, you can have USB passing through the Helix signal through USB 1/2.

The transmitter does auto standby after 4 minutes without signal. So, as soon as you stop playing, the transmitter will auto shut down after 4 minutes with no audio, to preserve the battery charge.

Probably all the drivers are being deprecated by core isolation memory integrity. Only way to allow windows 11 to load those drivers is to turn memory integrity off.

https://line6.com/support/topic/55438-changing-action-of-shuriken-variax/