PierM

You need to look at your Helix input block, and check if the input blinks with red while you are playing (which means signal clipping). If you don't see any red, or better, if it does just blink with green, then input is fine. It's really hard to clip the Helix input with standard pickups, this is why I was guessing something else after the input. Honestly never happened to me in 8 years I use these HX devices... Im of course assuming you don't have pedals in front of your Helix. In this case, let us know what pedal do you have as this could make a BIG difference... :)

It can take few days before the approval. I had problems with my original ideascale account and when I opened a new one, took almost a week to receive the approval... We should start an Ideascale to remind them it's 2023 and these processes can be completely automated and botproof...lol!

Please define Input Distorsion. Is the input clipping? I would find that pretty weird and not normal, especially with those standard pickups. JTV has hot humbuckers, but nothing that would clip the input. Maybe the engineer was clipping his own inputs, which means checking the gain staging and output settings.

If the scribble strip is still safe and working, I would leave it alone. Removing the original protection and glueing the new one is a recipe for a disaster...

Line 6 DC-3h

So, I ended buying another one of these, as I really enjoy it, and I want one velcroed on my pedalboard and another one for mobile use with my laptop. Find out that in the market there are two versions, one with USB micro and the other with USB C. Love the one with USB C, much friendly for my MacBook.

It's an abandoned product. They will never add new features. Isn't even available at the stores. Forget it. :)

Sorry for your problem, but you cant really isolate the offender along that audio pipeline, just by assumptions. It needs to be tested on a bench and pass few core tests. Many are the components that could potentially short that path to ground if faulty, so that would be like rolling the dice. Bring it to a service bench. My 2 cents. :) (all you can do, without doing even more damages, is to check the headphone TRS jack on the PCB. Search for shorts, or unsoldered bits.)

EQ Shelf should do the job just fine. Using high shelf it should act like an high pass filter (only low will pass) just smoother.

Yeah, but under 1Khz is low frequencies, so why they should put low freqs into the Highs? Im not sure I understand the point here... :)

Yep. I also have couple of controllers from them, and it looks like they aren't taking any shortcut.

Are you talking about cross frequencies? In that case it can't be any different than that, since you need not-overlapping values to make them cross/fade, and then set the "mid-range" compression area. For example; 500Hz on LowXFreq and 3Khz on HighXFreq, means that's the portion you want to compress through the Mid threshold and control through Mid Gain... Said that, those aren't relative to high-cut. High Cut is EQ shaping, Cross Freqs are just "in/out" boundaries to set the midrange. Honestly this is how it works in the Helix, and in any other multi band compressor...

Just wanted to share that I find this little pedal/interface a great companion for Native on Mac M1. Hotone JOGG. Runs without drivers, an incredible roundtrip of just 4.52ms at 32 sample (vs almost 8ms with HX Stomp as interface). Zero glitches and pops on my Macbook Pro M1. HI-Z input, stereo output, headphones port, D.I. XLR, aux in, Direct/DAW footswitch, Master Volume and Gain, USB powered or 9V. Ground Lift switch. Metal case. Great sound, plenty of usable gain, built like a tank. I love it! (not affiliated in any way, just sharing).

Im not sure about that. I know L6 says it does run natively, but yeah..doesnt look like that. When I installed Native 3.5 on my M1 pro (brand new), MacOs said Rosetta was required to proceed with the installation, and it did it. Same goes with HX Edit. They runs fine tho, even if as Intel process.

Just wait for support. Clearly an hardware problem.

Your settings are fine. Just turn MIDI THRU off unless you need to resend incoming MIDI to the output. It can engage MIDI loops and data hanging, so use it only if required by your setup. In a setup with just two MIDI device (like via MIDI USB, or connecting both IN and OUT between two device) it must be set to off, otherwise what you send to helix will be bounced back to the sender and fired back to helix in an infinite loop (data hang).

Doesnt really matter. I use MIDI over DIN and/or MIDI over USB, depending on the setup. It works either way.

No idea at this point sorry. For me works fine, whatever app or controller I use. This is from midi designer pro:

Depends how clean are the FS... :) When the switch got a bit oxidated, or old, it start misfiring and throwing switch bouncing noise. (which means tap tempo being set randomly). I had this on both Helix floor and Helix control...

Sounds like noise floor to me, pulled from the Stomp converters. I see volume on the Stomp is at 50%, but gain channel on the amp sounds bloody high volum. This means you are pulling a lot of noise from the floor. Try turning HX Stomp volume knob to 100%, and turn down the amp channel volume.

Unfortunately no. You cant disable Tap Tempo on the Helix.

oh yeah, nothing to complain about Helix family. But almost everything else is being released and abandoned. This is Yamaha I know... :)

Too slow pace, sloppy care for non-helix products. At this pace Hotone Audio will be the new L6 in few years. Their products, their energy and pace (and the capacity to really listen the userbase), reminds me of the Line 6 golder era.

Three different machines, any attempt to make them sounding exactly the same is gonna fail. Said that, the second one (that you said it's Helix), sounds thin and muffled to me like if the guitar signal isn't completely available at the helix preamps, and in the attempt to obtain the same "tube" drive - as the other two devices - you are indeed injecting some unpleasant sparkling and harmonic distortion. You sure you don't have the Pad on? Whatever it is, the first and last sounds much better to my ears, so I'm also curious to know what's happening. :)

Helix uses tactile microswitches, so you have to completely disassemble le unit, and spray a bit of deox just above the switch. This could help or not, depends if the problem is oxidation or end of life.