PierM

Poly Sustain block.

Well folks...it looks like there'll be a Helix II in the future.. Probably even a too far future for many of us lol.. However, that's a page of a interesting survey they are sending via email (pic stolen from TGP)...

You forgot the most important of the rules; Be sure the fizz isnt caused by a bad mixer, or wrong mixer track setup, or input/output level mismatches. In fact, I never had any fizz as soon as Im also doing my own mixer things. :) For some reason people tends to forget how important is what's coming after a modeler...

You can do already what you are asking. IIRC there is even a template for that in the stock presets... EDIT: nevermind, dataninjacommando already gave you a working preset. :)

The helix control, as is now, is a passive unit that needs the Rack to work. This means it's the Helix Rack that sends and receive MIDI, not the control. You cant use it alone, even if it has a usb port and a dedicated AC plug.

Nothing special happens. Helix/HX family, they all share the same FS sorting. So what has been assigned to FS1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 on the XL, will be available in the HX Stomp hardware FS 1, 2 and 3, and external FS 4 and 5, if available. In your case only Snapshots 1 to 3 will be ported.

That is valid for the Kemper, which has a different system, where the FS does hit the base ring before the spring does reach his maximum compression. It's the spring that works as actuator, so it does absorb most of the energy while pressing the tactile. It's still cheap way, but better than helix. Helix package is tighter, and uses an hard plastic actuator at the end of the spring. When you hit the footswitch, the actuator press the tactile switch, while the spring is just there to pull that plastic back. So, the harder you hit the metal footswitch, the harder that plastic will hit the tactile switch. Hitting hard the FS, doesn't mean you'll be damaging the tactile switch (I mean, it does probably contribute to its overall lifespan), but for sure it does change the bouncing noise. In fact, I could reproduce the tap/tempo noise glitch only when hitting hard, while glitch was gone if pressing the switch with half the pressure. Isn't just about bad or cheap tactile switches. It's mostly a problem of bad design. In my opinion. As for the randomness you mentioned, it's possible that it's different batches, maybe from different suppliers. Helix is almost 10 years is out, so I'm pretty sure today isn't same hardware as 8 or 9 years ago. That's why I no longer use those FS on the ground. My Stomp now sits on a pedalboard, and I use an external controller with proper FS for the remoting.

I've been told Rosetta with Native is only being used by the Installer, which sounds realistic. HX Edit still looks like an Intel process. Said that, none of this does affect the USB com. Helix would be recognized with or without L6 drivers. Time to bring that mac to an Apple service point, or give up.

From the sound of it, you dont need any l6 support, but apple assistance. Are you using USB A to USB C adapters or A to C cable? Those can be a problem as they have a chip that sometimes is being ignored by the Mac. As for the little A to C adapters, for many of those, you need to plug them first to be recognized and activated, then plug the helix usb B to A cable, to such adapter.

Give it a read;

False contacts, broken solder joint, short circuit, loose ribbon cables...it can be a lot of things that cant be easily diagnosed in a forum. I'd bring it to an authorized l6 service. This will also prevent things getting worse. :) Just not sure what's that "red blink"? Blink from what?

Relay is the wireless system from l6.

Page 41 of the manual;

Yikes... If he's on the right firmware, Im pretty sure it's a corrupted database, so I'd reset the unit again, restore original presets from 3.6, reset globals and rebuild all presets at next boot. At that point Id try to re import that preset. I would also avoid to restore any previous backup for this test. Sometimes just the reset isnt enough and you also need to wipe out every single bit from the unit database.

Is that cab working if you build your own presets? I assume it is, so instead going crazy trying to debug, why wouldnt you just copy the settings used by Jason for that cab, remove it, add it again from the cab list, and then apply those settings? At least this is what I would try in a similar situation.

Unfortunately that impedance circuit and the preamp on the Helix/HX does the miracle IME. I can really feel and hear the difference, especially in the dynamics available within the headroom offered by the hardware vs plugin. At input level parity, and same preset, the Helix hardware gives me the extra headroom I need, especially for the cleans that are more nervous with transients. That difference is also changing the way the amp block is reacting to the input driving its "tube" algorithm. Tried lot of audio interfaces, never managed to get the same result as with the Helix hardware. That's my experience with my tones and my guitars. So experience may vary. :) Would be really awesome to see a RME with something similar. :)

Helix windows drivers aren't really optimised for live VST/DAW, so the latency can be a problem for some people (like me). Since I moved to Mac Im no longer using L6 drivers, and only going with the Apple core audio and get a brilliant 3.6ms of RLT against almost 8ms with windows (and l6 drivers) at sampling/buffer parity. Also no more click and pops due random DPCs. I believe you need to find your priorities and build your own setup based on that. Native is a great solution if you want Helix tones and keep using your preferred audio interface with better drivers for live VST, such those from RME. On the other hand, if for some reason you really can't do without the auto impedance circuit offered by the Helix/HX (which is the core difference with any other standard audio interface out there), and you also need low latency round trip, then I'd consider moving to Mac. Also moving to Mac means not worrying much about the never ending OS optimisation for DAW usage that you must do on a PC. On my MacBook pro, I just turn off the WiFi, and it's ready to go. No hassle.

Read the silverhead answer. He gave you a solution. ;)

As I explained in other similar threads (unfortunately it's a common issue, especially for gigging musicians or heavy stompers), these units aren't using real footswitches, but actuators that are pushing against little tactile switches. These tactile switches (not only those in the helix) have a very common problem, which is called contact noise, or "switch bouncing". That noise does engage an high frequency series of false contacts while the circuit it's changing its status from open to closed, and viceversa. See the pic; As they wear out the problem becomes more and more evident, and the typical symptom is a random double action (contact friction on tap, and contact friction on release). This same problem is also the culprit for the classic tap/tempo glitch with the tempo jumping to maxed randomly. I also believe they didn't changed the switches, but only cleaned out with a deox spray, which can reduce the noise for some time (because does improve the conductivity)...but soon or later it will come back again, as you are experiencing. Only way to solve for good is to change the tactile switches, swapping them from the PCB with new ones. I'd avoid using the same part, as they are garbage. There are better tactile switches on the market, but you need a pro to make the job properly. :) Then, since these parts aren't really touring grade, try to keep the unit clean as much as you can, avoid dusty places, avoid high humidity and high temps etc etc.. :) PS: there are techniques to debounce the issue via hardware and even via software. I'd love to see L6 doing something about that.

The PC112+ XLR, when used as FRFR (no cab simulation), will send a Direct unprocessed signal straight to FOH. Just be sure to set the correct signal level at the XLR out, Mic or Line, depending what's the mixer FOH is asking. If you are in stereo, with two PC112+ and using a L6 link daisy chain, remember you will still need two XLR cables to FOH, one for each PC (left and right). When the PC is being used as cab sim, the XLR Out will send an emulation of that same cab, but with a mic emulation. You can pick the mic model in the Preset setting (IIRC stock is an SM57).

I honestly cant speak for the HD500, but I can assure you the Stomp wont do anything terrible to your signal. Doesnt do anything terrible to my real amps either. There'll be an ADA conversion, as happens with the HX FX. It will be fine. :) Just be sure to properly set the Stomp output to inst level if you'll be using it in front of the amp. (Global Settings)

Interesting. Always thought those serials were decals under the clear coat, so impossible to remove without sanding and repainting. At least this is how is done on my 2011 JTV. This is suspicious.

The main difference between HX FX and Stomp is that Stomp has an auto impedance circuit at the input as any other HX/Helix modeler of the family. You can turn it off and set your wanted impedance to be loaded. Imho shouldn't be any different than HX FX as soon as you don't do modeling within the Stomp. Also depends how you use it, and how you route the signal to the Stomp. (front of amp? 4CM? FX loop? etc etc). No idea what you meant with "like the pod hd 500 I had some years ago" tho. :)

Helix Native on an iPad Pro would be killer, better if standalone as a direct competitor with Bias Amp and FX II. Unfortunately, it wont happen.

Read the manual, then if something will be still foggy ask here. ;)