PierM

The safest setting is to use FS1,2 and 3 in block bypass mode, to use them to turn block bypass on or off. In this case, if you press FS1+2, or any other combination, nothing more than bypass switch would happen. The most risky setting, is to use the FS in preset mode. There if you press two FS at the same time, the system goes bananas, flashing and hanging...and Im not even sure what is doing or what is supposed to do. I presume this is what's happening to you. Unfortunately, there is nothing to prevent that other than not using the FS to select presets. What I suggest is to set them in block bypass mode and be more careful when stomping. :) If you need to browse presets, you could add an external switch with two FS, that you can assign as FS4 and FS5, or preset navigation. The Ampero dual switch works flawless.

I didnt ask you. Did I?

A Mesa Mark VII and a Powercab in a stereo setup? Why?

6 years old, but still looking young.

Ok.

I guess it's just a production/cost matter, since an high end clickless/silent footswitch it can cost 10 to 20 times a tactile switch. I dream of a HX Stomp or Helix, with Lehle BTN Switches... Top Notch stuff.

I wouldnt hold my breath on this experiment as when I tried, the result was a warble fest. I believe tracking and pitch algo arent fully suitable for voice.

Big knob Passive. It's cheap, it's passive, true signal, it can handle 2 sources going into 2 different set of speakers.

Just read the damn manual!

Poly Sustain block.

Well folks...it looks like there'll be a Helix II in the future.. Probably even a too far future for many of us lol.. However, that's a page of a interesting survey they are sending via email (pic stolen from TGP)...

You forgot the most important of the rules; Be sure the fizz isnt caused by a bad mixer, or wrong mixer track setup, or input/output level mismatches. In fact, I never had any fizz as soon as Im also doing my own mixer things. :) For some reason people tends to forget how important is what's coming after a modeler...

You can do already what you are asking. IIRC there is even a template for that in the stock presets... EDIT: nevermind, dataninjacommando already gave you a working preset. :)

The helix control, as is now, is a passive unit that needs the Rack to work. This means it's the Helix Rack that sends and receive MIDI, not the control. You cant use it alone, even if it has a usb port and a dedicated AC plug.

Nothing special happens. Helix/HX family, they all share the same FS sorting. So what has been assigned to FS1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 on the XL, will be available in the HX Stomp hardware FS 1, 2 and 3, and external FS 4 and 5, if available. In your case only Snapshots 1 to 3 will be ported.

That is valid for the Kemper, which has a different system, where the FS does hit the base ring before the spring does reach his maximum compression. It's the spring that works as actuator, so it does absorb most of the energy while pressing the tactile. It's still cheap way, but better than helix. Helix package is tighter, and uses an hard plastic actuator at the end of the spring. When you hit the footswitch, the actuator press the tactile switch, while the spring is just there to pull that plastic back. So, the harder you hit the metal footswitch, the harder that plastic will hit the tactile switch. Hitting hard the FS, doesn't mean you'll be damaging the tactile switch (I mean, it does probably contribute to its overall lifespan), but for sure it does change the bouncing noise. In fact, I could reproduce the tap/tempo noise glitch only when hitting hard, while glitch was gone if pressing the switch with half the pressure. Isn't just about bad or cheap tactile switches. It's mostly a problem of bad design. In my opinion. As for the randomness you mentioned, it's possible that it's different batches, maybe from different suppliers. Helix is almost 10 years is out, so I'm pretty sure today isn't same hardware as 8 or 9 years ago. That's why I no longer use those FS on the ground. My Stomp now sits on a pedalboard, and I use an external controller with proper FS for the remoting.

I've been told Rosetta with Native is only being used by the Installer, which sounds realistic. HX Edit still looks like an Intel process. Said that, none of this does affect the USB com. Helix would be recognized with or without L6 drivers. Time to bring that mac to an Apple service point, or give up.

From the sound of it, you dont need any l6 support, but apple assistance. Are you using USB A to USB C adapters or A to C cable? Those can be a problem as they have a chip that sometimes is being ignored by the Mac. As for the little A to C adapters, for many of those, you need to plug them first to be recognized and activated, then plug the helix usb B to A cable, to such adapter.

Give it a read;

False contacts, broken solder joint, short circuit, loose ribbon cables...it can be a lot of things that cant be easily diagnosed in a forum. I'd bring it to an authorized l6 service. This will also prevent things getting worse. :) Just not sure what's that "red blink"? Blink from what?

Relay is the wireless system from l6.

Page 41 of the manual;

Yikes... If he's on the right firmware, Im pretty sure it's a corrupted database, so I'd reset the unit again, restore original presets from 3.6, reset globals and rebuild all presets at next boot. At that point Id try to re import that preset. I would also avoid to restore any previous backup for this test. Sometimes just the reset isnt enough and you also need to wipe out every single bit from the unit database.

Is that cab working if you build your own presets? I assume it is, so instead going crazy trying to debug, why wouldnt you just copy the settings used by Jason for that cab, remove it, add it again from the cab list, and then apply those settings? At least this is what I would try in a similar situation.

Unfortunately that impedance circuit and the preamp on the Helix/HX does the miracle IME. I can really feel and hear the difference, especially in the dynamics available within the headroom offered by the hardware vs plugin. At input level parity, and same preset, the Helix hardware gives me the extra headroom I need, especially for the cleans that are more nervous with transients. That difference is also changing the way the amp block is reacting to the input driving its "tube" algorithm. Tried lot of audio interfaces, never managed to get the same result as with the Helix hardware. That's my experience with my tones and my guitars. So experience may vary. :) Would be really awesome to see a RME with something similar. :)