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grdGo33

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Everything posted by grdGo33

  1. Just a regular PC (parts build), Windows 10, the other was a Dell laptop, also Win10, but I think the updater didn't work on the Dell because I only installed the Line 6 Updater. I think it requires some of the files from the Pod Go Edit, or maybe the drivers with the "Fixes a crash that would occur with Logitech's G HUB.". Anyway, of course it doesn't mention any of those things so it shouldn't... But who knows at this point...
  2. My firmware update failed miserably and I had to spend maybe 1h trying to fix it. NOT FUN. (https://line6.com/support/topic/56809-error-while-updating-to-firmware-111-pod-go-wont-boot-up/). Hopefully the other thread might help someone going through the same. But I guess it goes to show that the reliability of the unit isn't really there. From random locks and freezes, the unit not powering on, the firmware updates crapping out and temporarily bricking the unit until you download additional software and try the same thing multiple times, I honestly couldn't recommend the unit for any type of gigging, where you can't afford to look like a loser who's gear stops working in the middle of a show. I'm hoping that now that it's been updated, it won't crash as often as it did, but I've had it for about a month, used it a couple of hours per day, and I've had maybe 4-5 crashes and 3 booting issues. Not the end of the world, but I hope the Helix, LT, Stomp, etc., are more reliable because the POD Go sadly doesn't look very reliable... I hope it won't crap out after a couple of months/years either... :\
  3. This is infuriating... I tried on another computer: Installed updater, launched Go in update mode, and it wouldn't even recognized the POD Go. So much for that solution... So I went back to my main PC. The error message I posted above clearly has 3 steps to follow. I repeated the steps like 5+ times, same result every time. FAILED. Seemed to fail almost instantly every time. The original update failed, but it took maybe 20s and the status bar moved maybe to 40% something... But it didn't even seem to get to 10% these last few times... I then closed the updater, restarted the Go, started again the L6 Updater, and got this. (So closing the updater is maybe a key step!) Good... But man, Line 6... Come on... This is not normal, and I'm certainly not the only person this happened to. Also, there should at least be the relevant links for recoveries in the threads about the new versions, or the downloads... Otherwise, it's just an additional pain to find the relevant info and fix the issue. That was not fun. :\
  4. Yeah same thing with updater updating to 1.11... Firmware Update Failed An error has occurred. Please try again. Please follow these steps when updating your Line 6 Product. 1. Turn the power switch off, then back on. 2. Ensure the USB cable is connected directly to your computer and not to a hub or peripheral such as a keyboard or mouse. 3. Click 'Continue' and attempt the update again. Guess I'll try from another computer... This is... Stressful and quite annoying/disappointing... :( [edit] some info about POD Go recoveries here... https://line6.com/support/topic/56008-pod-go-firmware-mishap/
  5. Sigh... I just tried to update the firmware of my unit and now it's not booting up... Everything was going fine until it said "Error", turn off the Go power switch, etc., and after turning off the Go power switch, it doesn't boot up anymore... When I power on the unit normally I just get the Pod logo and nothing happens When I connect the USB cable, nothing happens If I boot up the unit in 'update mode' (Page > button), I can hear the Windows USB device connected sound, but nothing happens. If I launch Pod Go Edit, it says "no device connected". If I replug the USB cable, I get a device connected sound, but nothing happens in POD Go Edit, still "no device connected". I tried a different USB cable, different port, same thing. I tried "start with the POD Go turned off, then flip on the power switch while holding down for 5-8 seconds: - C & D - Factory Restore (Restores all factory settings)", but nothing happens. Stuck at Pod Go logo. :\ What can I do? [edit] ok I had found this article https://line6.com/support/page/kb/pod/pod-go/pod-go-failed-update-recovery-r944/ and it mentioned the Line 6 updater, it doesn't reference the Pod Go Edit 'updater', it refers to another application, trying that one... Fingers crossed...
  6. Good post! A few random thoughts of my own: I think pro sound engineers or others with actual experience with what is being emulated with the Go will have much easier time. For instance, I was just creating a patch for the Solo amp Crunch channel, and was playing with cabs, and it's crazy how just the cab settings affects not only the tone (FR) but even distortion characteristics of the amp... Just changing the microphone distance, or changing the mic type, changes everything, as if you had selected a completely different cab. And I don't think many people on earth have that type of experience with real equipment. I think also the Go is so complex, you could spend months trying to learn everything it has to offer and still not come close... So I'm thinking about not even trying, just go with an amp, find a cab, reverb, delay, etc., and experiment with it, and don't fret everything else and don't try to learn everything... In that respect, the Go/Helix is one hell of a special type of beast. There's so much depth... To know everything about it you'd probably need multiple PhDs on the Helix/Go... (one for amp models and settings, one for cab 'science' & mics, then effects, compressors, distortions, etc.) But luckily, it's still simple to use and anyone could configure their own great sounding patches without too much trouble. As for gigging... I'd be worried. It crashed many times on me, refused to power on sometimes, so for now I'd be weary and wouldn't do it without a backup. But I've yet to patch it to the latest firmware, which I'm hoping should help, and I hope it won't brick the unit as there's been quite a few messages about it...!
  7. That's what's really strange, shouldn't make the preset volumes be more or less consistent, and with 10 feet cable the noise difference should be barely perceptible... Maybe FRFR 108 really doesn't like unbalanced? Anyway, problem solved is what's important! I'm using DIY Seas 2 way bookshelves speakers, but also tried with more budget 2 way Vifa DIY and it also worked perfectly. I don't think it really matters as long as the speakers are decent, if they do fine with music they'll do fine with Go; music is much more demanding so if you keep SPL reasonable really nothing 'special' required for Go! (Better speakers = better sound, but diminishing return applies, so I really wouldn't go crazy...)
  8. Also just because that doesn't make much sense to me, if you use that same cable to connect your guitar to the Go, does it change anything to the sound? Also what was your Global Settings Main Out setting? Line or instrument? I'm now thinking that if you had it to instrument and the was still able to amplify the very low signal, that could have very well have killed your sound quality; I don't think the FRFR is designed for instrument level signals. And maybe with balanced the Go automatically switch to line level? Did the volume output change much between both cables? That or a bad cable would be logical explanations of why it sounded so much worse than balanced... Otherwise; really really surprised going balanced would make such drastic difference! o.0 But if you had it set to 'instrument' and tried again with 'line', it really should sound the same, just make sure you lower your FRFR volume before switching! (could be super loud after changing!)
  9. Wow quite surprising how long an unbalanced cable were you running? I'd have expected marginally less noise and maybe the tiniest amount of volume... But if you're not running like 30+ feet long cables, I'd have expected the difference to be barely noticeable, especially if all you're running is like 5 of 10 feet of cable...!
  10. Ok figured it out while typing this and testing for like an hour, but it was quite frustrating, so in case it helps someone... If you want to add/edit multiple min/max values to a footswitch. Manual states: So to create: 1) hold a knob 2) press learn 3) press the footswitch (here, values reset to 0-10, annoying but normal) 4) you can alter different parameters to set min/max, but you still need to specify the footswitch for every setting, which is annoying, but necessary... 5) press view to exit, no save required or any other switch/learn required to save here you should see something like "Multiple(2)" for your pedal assignment if you switch views, and if you press the switch it should change between the values 6) save 'normally' so your saves are saved if you switch patches To edit, same thing as above, but skip the steps #2 and #3: 1) hold a knob 2) change the different values you need to change (you don't need to press learn or footswitch before!) 3) press view to exit, no save required or any other switch/learn required to save here you should see something like "Multiple(2)" for your pedal assignment if you switch views, and if you press the switch it should change between the values 4) save 'normally' so your saves are saved if you switch patches This could have been clearer in the manual...
  11. Nice! Great choice I've heard great things about the Katana 100 mk2, it's a fantastic amp on its own! :) It even has an FX loop, so make sure you try to the 4 cable method of the Pod Go's manual, that way you'll get the most of the setup. Not that it's really necessary as you have plenty of choices (too many!) in the Go's amp, but who knows maybe you could use some of the Katana's amps or effects in combination with the Go's, so get a 'free' distortion, boost, or extra effects? Anyway, worth a try. :) Which headphones do you have? Maybe the crispness you hear is 'fake', as I was saying with the V eq settings, some headphones also have excessive treble which might sound 'crisp' or 'detailed' or whatever, but it's just 'more' treble... Anyway, bit hard to explain. But also, buck for buck, you need to spend a LOT on speakers to equal a good pair of headphones; especially in how resolving and how 'crispness' and responsiveness; in the room, there's all kinds of echo, so even with music, a pair of say $300 headphones can sound more resolving and clearer than a pair of $5000 speakers in a room... Headphones just naturally have a cleaner/crisper/more resolving sound, just the nature of headphones vs speakers, so it might be unrealistic to chase headphone sound in speakers! Also lastly, sound coming out of speakers is quite directional, and every speaker will sound different depending if you're higher, lower, on the side, etc., So if you want to get the most of your speaker amp, instead of having it on the floor, try elevating it by putting it on some furniture or something so that it's at head level and points at your head, that will make a big difference! Maybe just tilting upwards can help. Have fun!
  12. Haha you're welcome, my son!
  13. Haha I had a bit of the same experience when just trying out the presets, but check out this guy, the presets are actually not that bad... Can really be a guitar & player issue! For killer tones, it depends on your taste & music, but I love the tone from these guys, they sell some patches and even have a free one, the AC30 below, so you could download it and tweak/learn from it...
  14. Main Out. With "Pre CAB/IR", your amp out bypasses your cab and any effect after it, so it's definitely not what you want. Weird if you said it sound pretty damn good... I'm very surprised! So compared to your headphones, the FRFR sounds "pretty damn good"? I'm sad to say that I couldn't find any measurements of the FRFR-108 (ex; frequency response, waterfall graph, etc.). The 'contour' button just boosts the bass & treble, this is typically a trick for 'cheap' sound systems to sound better, because it boosting bass and treble will make people think it sounds better, even if it does not, the old 'v' EQ trick... (short term sounds better, longer you realize it's just bumped highs & lows and it's no good...). So maybe you could tune your settings so that they sound better on the FRFR, but to me, that's a compromise, as pretty much the Go gives you '99%' sound quality, and then it goes through the FRFR, maybe maybe lowers it to 80% or whatever it is, depending on how good/bad they really are... But then the issue becomes that if you ever upgrade the FRFR, all of your patches will likely sound like lollipop, because they've been specifically tweaked for the FRFR... So all this tweaking for FRFR was for nothing, and now you've get patches you've got to un-tweak your FRFR fixes... So I'd say, try to invest in a decent pair of speakers! Be it they're studio monitors or just regular stereo speakers, that you'll likely notice right away a big improvement and you won't have to deal with anything FRFR related... Otherwise, to really know how great/bad the FR sounds, compare this clip with headphones or speakers, vs FRFR. This is genuine tone from the Go, and the guy goes through all the presets. So at least it eliminates the player + guitar. Me trying out the presets sounds NOWHERE as good as this guy... So you'll at least get a better idea of how it should sound, vs how it does sound on FRFR... Quite curious to know how it'll sound let me know! :) (btw, what speakers or headphones can you compare with?)
  15. I replied in your other thread headphone vs FRFR I think it was. But yeah, I'm 95% sure that the poor sound quality is just coming from the speaker. It is a budget speaker, and from every recording I've heard of it, you're describing its innate sound. So yeah, the Pod Go is 200% better than the Spider Amp, but your FRFR 108 is killing all of your tone. Try plugging to your sound stereo if you have one (ex; Go headphone out), and you'll likely notice a dramatic sound improvement if your stereo has decent sound.
  16. Well that's your problem, you don't want to set it to "Pre cab/IR", if you do, you bypass the cab emulation as well as any effects after the cab. You want to set it to "main out" if you're going to use Go's "amp out" to the "FX return" of your Marshall. And as mentioned, yeah go 4 cable method is best method!
  17. No offense to the Headrush 108, but have you every tried playing music with it? (regular music, ex; playing classical music, rock, etc.) My guess, it's not really designed to play at home at low volumes, it's more a design to blast sound out, so you will not get great sound quality from it... Hear it here for instance, at around 3m: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OyItH10hoU I mean it doesn't sound good from where I'm sitting. Compare to just a Boss Katana https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oNBAE0tCm_A But of course, it's ~$200, so you can't expect 'end game' quality sound... You have other sound samples here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BgKPP5BG2p4 So I'm 95% sure it's a case I think where you're hearing the limitations of the speaker (driver + tweeter). Do you have a regular stereo at home? Try plugging Go's headphone out to it, and compare. I'm using stereo speakers + cheap T-Amp (what I had laying around), and it sounds incomparable vs a L6 Spider Amp... But yeah, $200 amp vs speakers costing maybe ~$1000 a pair... The Go deserve quality speakers, in stereo if possible, so unless you play music out of the FRFR 108 and it sounds 'phenomenal', I think you're just hearing to sound of the 108. Unless it sounds much worse than any of the above video... But from what I heard from the clips, they do seem to have that sort of distinctive boxy/muddy sound; not much depth/clarity... This guy at 4m https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ioFesfEOTR0 describes it as "it sounds like the headrush has a cold", nasal... Anyway, don't expect too much from the FRFR!
  18. 112V https://oldtimemusic.com/yamaha-pacifica-112v/ Still great for beginners/amateurs, for what, 1/3rd cost of a Strat, great buy! My US Strat gets barely any use in comparison... The hum issue isn't that bad, and I couldn't find anyone else commenting on it anywhere, so might be an issue with mine. Or... They're all the same, but it's largely a non-issue so nobody noticed... Had it for years, and I just noticed a couple days ago, and had I not directly compared, probably would have never noticed it hummed more than the others. My favorite PU config is definitely HSS, strat tones neck + humbucker bridge, best of both worlds. I was thinking for a short while of upgrading to maybe something like an Ibanez AZ or Vola, but you're talking more than 5x the cost of the Pac... Vola was interesting, especially since they now have distributors for US & Canada, but buying online isn't incredible when you can't try before hand...
  19. Well since it turned out to be mainly one guitar, I think that particular guitar is the culprit. Found this: It was a bit misleading because with lots of gain, compressor, distortion, etc., every guitar will hum at one point, so when configuring new patches I noticed the hum with different guitars, but when comparing directly guitars with the same settings, then it became evident that one hummed much more than others, almost as much as a single coil... Which is quite weird... I don't think I'll bother with a power conditioner as the Go's noise gate fixes the issue, also I think my power is already fairly clean. Thanks for your help vox! :) Still weird that if I touch a guitar tuner, the hum stops though... LOL
  20. It's not the same type of hum though... For instance, take here https://youtu.be/JAllMFGdQTI?t=996 this is like a magnetic hum from the pickups themselves, but if you notice, it doesn't go away when he touches the strings. Mine does though! Large hum, I touch the strings, bridge or tuners, and ploof, no more hum, gone! But yeah I tested different guitars with the same amp & settings, and it does appear that the hum does vary by guitar. For some reason, the Yamaha Pacifica's humbucker is by far the most noisy, and the only one which I now think has an issue with... With the same OD + Amp with drive all the way up, all the other humbuckers do their job and stop the hum, but not this one... I don't get it... :\
  21. But if it's just really that every pickup will inherently pick up some noise, and high gain amplifies that noise a lot, then yeah power conditioner would do absolutely nothing... But it is weird that it goes away if you touch the strings though. It really does seem like there's some sort of grounding issue between the guitar and the Go. I can even touch just one of the guitar tuners and poof, the noise almost completely disappear! On my Yamaha Pac, every of 5 pickup positions do it, even the humbucker and position 2 and 4 (which should be hum canceling), but the hum sounds different as you go through PUs options...
  22. Ibanez HSH or HH, Fender SSS, PRS SE HH, etc., What is weird is that if there was a ground loop, I would hear it from other systems (audio speakers, etc.), but it's really just from the Go, with high gain amps, so it doesn't look like it's a ground loop. Also, I don't get it from my L6 Spider amp, which to my knowledge doesn't have a noise gate, but maybe... Hmmm... Ha! The Spider amp does have a 'hidden' defeatable noise gate, and if I turn it off manually, I'm getting similar noise... So yeah maybe it is 'normal' behavior...! Would using a power conditioner with the go + amp reduce or fix this issue?
  23. I'm getting some bit of weird noise with high gain amps, where it's humming if I'm not touching any metal part of the guitar, but goes away as soon as I touch the strings or bridge. I'm using headphone out to stereo amp & speakers, and just a guitar in cable... Getting the same with multiple guitars, and what's strange is that it does it even with humbuckers. It's almost like if there was a ground loop... Sure, noise gate does help, but it doesn't feel quite normal that I'm getting that much 'electrical' noise for no apparent reason... Any idea what could be causing it and is anyone getting the same thing?
  24. grdGo33

    High Gain Amps

    What was the wiring issue?
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