grdGo33

I'm currently using my Go's effect loop to use a "ammoon AP-09 Nano Loop", think I picked it up a couple yars back from from aliexpress at like US $30 shipped, and I set it up in effects loop as the last block of my Go, seems to work fairly well. Not sure why, but another looper of mine doesn't work as well (akai) as its playback seems to clip. But anyway, if you're interested in a looper and aren't using your Go's effect loop, might be worth to pick one up! (cheap, tiny and works great!). Or, if you're outputting to guitar cab, amp, etc., you could just set your looper between the Go & it, but I'm using headphone out to audio speakers so not really an option for me, I think...

Are you bypassing the Go's cab section? If not, don't forget that the Go doesn't try to sound 'good' through your guitar Cab. What it does, is simulate a microphone + guitar cab, and it will output that sound. So if you output to studio monitors, it will not sound like if it was played through a guitar cab (not as a "good sounding amp in a room", it isn't trying to do that either), but as the mic would have recorded a cab's output. So it'll sound a like a guitar on a recording, but it's not emulating just "a guitar cab". If you're using a cab, you'd be better off to go through, as you said, your guitar in and go through your 'real' amp/cab. When you're using your effects loop in, you're just, basically, playing 'directly' through your guitar speaker; and should be getting your own 'guitar cab sound'. If your guitar cab was a 'perfect' speaker, it should sound as good as the youtube videos. But, you're playing emulated cab+mic through your guitar cab, not something intended, or not exactly something Go is trying to do. I think it's similar to using Go's headphone out to amp mp3/cd in input, to me sounded quite poor, to quote myself from another thread: TLDR. Guitar -> Go -> Amp effect in = Go simulated cab -> simulated mic -> out of real cab. <-- not optimal. Think it's better to turn off Go's simulated cab & mic and just use your real cab. Also, for the Katana, I'm not sure if there's any wizardry at the amp/speaker level, like if the amp section of the Katana (pre effects loop out) already tweaks the sound for its own power amp section & driver. Because reading back my TLDR, guitar -> Go (cab bypassed) -> amp effects in, should not sound any worse than the Katana's own amp section (anything before the effects loop out) if the Go's cab section is bypassed...

What are you trying to use off the Mustang? The Amp section is a bit pointless as it's a set block on the Go, you cannot change it to something else so it's essentially 'free'. Well not sure if it works exactly as it says in the manual, but if it does, that would be quite limiting... A few thoughts: 4 cable method 1a) You could use your amp's distortion as a distortion pedal / boost, plus compressor or other pre-amp effects. You wouldn't be able to use your amp's reverb/delay/others as these would be pre PGo amp, but you could save 1-2 blocks for boost/distortion/compressor with this; effects before the Go Amp section. 1b) Use the amp's amp modeling instead of the Go, this opens up using more effects from the Mustang as if you're not using the Go's amp/cab, you'll be able to use other effects after your Mustang's... But you wouldn't be using your Go's amp section, which would kinda defeat the point of the Go IMHO... (here the Go would be 'last' in the chain) Guitar to Go to Amp guitar in: 2) You'd get to use your full Go (without cab) 4 blocks, and then use the Mustang's for reverb/delay/phaser, etc., anything at the end. But then you do not get to use your Mustang's amp section, which should be fine I think since the Go's should be better... Latter is probably the simplest and most practical to use. But... The Go's reverb & other effects are really great, so you might be missing out by not using the Go's effects and instead using the Mustang's... Anyway, I'd try to use it this way first, just use 100% of the Go and ignore your amp effects. You could plug to Amp effects in to bypass everything. Then just get used to the Go effects and all, and then you'll see if your 4 blocks really aren't enough for you, and you'll have a better idea of what effects you want to use at once, and then you'll be able to choose the method most optimal for your specific needs. There's quite a few options!

Think the same thing happened to me while editing a patch, seemed like the volume slowly went away, just became softer and softer over a few minutes (1-2 minutes?), and at one point I couldn't figure out why I was getting basically no distortion vs what I had a few minutes ago and I hadn't really changed anything which could have affected it... But I think it came back after switching the patch, or I just closed the thing and went to do something else... Can't really recall as it happened like a week ago.

And btw you can't switch blocks, so if your block 1 Dst and block 2 is OD that would work, you can turn on/off effects with snapshots. But you can't change a block from distortion to OD or whathever, you can only change parameters (ex; drive = 6 vs 2) or turn effects on/off.

Check your amp out source setting, looks like you're using "pre cab/IR" instead of "Main out".

Just in case this might help someone. Basically, should have been evident, but the 'best' way to plug in basically any amp without effects loop such as the Spider or whatever, is simply to bypass the POD Go's cab block and plug to guitar in, that way you're using the amp's cab instead of a simulated cab. Sure, you're losing out on the cab block of the Go, but honestly, just messing a bit with the cabs and the L6 Spider, I'd recommend that. If you want to use a Go with a Spider, I'd put the drive to 0, the low/mids/treble to noon, no reverb & delay (unless you're planning to use Spider's reverb/delay to save on PGO Blocks), and completely forget that the cab block of the Go exists. If you want, create a 'base' preset for all the L6 Spider's amp models with 0 drive & all, and that gives your different 'cab' settings. It would have been nice to have a totally neutral sound out of the Spider, but since you're basically getting 9 cabs with a L6 Spider 3 (forget anything metal/insane, even 0 distortion = too much distortion), you're bound to find one which will sound decent with whatever you're trying to do. Just playing a bit with the Go's amps + L6 Spider, honestly, it's better than I first thought. It really does sound quite bad when you add the Go's Cab section + Spider's amp/cab, but bypassing the Go's cab, it's decent. Probably better than the aux, plus saves you the headache of cab+mic+distance, which given that the Go is already soo complex, is a big plus. Then you can migrate to monitors and use the cabs later on, when you're familiar with the Go & want to improve your sound, but short term, probably your best bet.

Just to be sure... Did you just switch to your user presets? Or do you still see your own presets, but the factory presets are all gone? The 1st time you save a user preset it switches to users, then you need to switch back to factory to see the list of factory presets...

Have you checked these ones out? These are the ones which just come first to mind for high gain, excluding those you've already mentioned, but likely more than a few others! Derailed Ingrid Based on: Trainwreck Circuits® Express Placater Dirty Based on: Friedman® BE-100 Archetype Lead Based on: Paul Reed Smith® Archon® ANGL Meteor Based on: ENGL® Fireball 100 Solo Based on: Soldano SLO-100 Revv Gen Red Based on: Gain 2 channel of the Revv® Line 6 Badonk Based on: Line 6 Original inspired by the original Cutting through the mix is often more a function of EQ rather than 'amp' itself, but yeah gain also might impact.. https://reverb.com/news/5-ways-to-cut-through-the-mix So use the EQ! Also are you choosing your cab and mic + placement? The default cabs/mics aren't the greatest imho, to get a good feel about the amps, you're better off setting up your Go not to automatically switch cab when you change amps. That way you can get familiar with cab + mic, and then get familiar with each of the amps. Otherwise when changing amps it changes cab/mic & you then can't hear the amp vs cab/mic if you get what I mean, and imho you'll hear more of the amp/mic than amp itself... I'm guessing that you're also using a distortion pedal or boost? Many have an effect on the FR (frequency response) so choosing the 'right' distortion pedal might help you cut through! Also choosing the correct mic + cab would also certainly help cutting through the mix; many of the 4x amps have a 'rounder' FR, some of the 2x or 1x speakers being more mid-focused might also help you cut through! And don't also forget that you can change the 'sag' and other cab/amps params to make the sound tighter however you might want to tweak. (likely mentioned in vid below). But yeah, you should have plenty of high gain amps in Go! Also I just stumbled in this, might help! (haven't watch it yet myself)

Ah ok as you had quoted my steps and started with "that's basically how it works", I thought you were saying that my steps was basically how it works, not that your following paragraphs explained how it did... (I misunderstood, my bad) I edited & posted last my comment with step just so others don't get confused about the incorrect info I posted... True... True... But I know better now than to comment on how it should work, so I'll just leave it at that.

There's more than a dozen types of compressors... Saying there's "not really" any sustain pedal in the Go is silly...! https://www.sustainpunch.com/guitar-sustain-pedals/ ok bro, turns out I don't know how to PM here either... Since you had mass downvoted (7? Without even reading them all by your own admission? lol), I thought I'd also use the function to express my genuine disagreement with any of your comments as I encountered them. Didn't think you'd freak out at 2 since you handed out dislikes like candy... Now seems you've childishly downvoted a few more of my comments in retribution, but anyway, I'm not keeping score, just abide by the golden rule and we're good. (Treat others as you would like others to treat you).

Please use PMs if you want to discuss, don't hijack a random thread... FYI, I just don't agree with some of your comments...

Sorry to hear that! Hope your next one works fine... It's a good unit, for the price, I think... But it does have more than its share of issues, and can be downright infuriating to work with. (bricked units during firmware updates, bad UI (see my PG Edit thread lol), etc.) But... When it works, imho, it's great; does so much and really easy to get great tones! Btw did you say repairs? I was going to say that at least if there's an issue you can just return it under warranty; but I'd expect them just to ship you another one if there's an issue with yours... Hopefully that's what they did and you won't have to wait a long time for your repaired or replacement unit! (I'm guessing they won't repair it, maybe just test it, notice the defect and send you another one. HOPEFULLY...!)

Yeah for the record, that's definitely not how it works, the manual was correct and you always need to click on the snapshot assignment button and then on the snapshots button on the popup window for every parameter you want to change: 1) You configure your Go settings as you want: This is your base settings, normal; snapshot1 aka SS1. 2) You switch to another SS. 3) You have to click on the parameter assignment button on the left of the setting you want to change for the SS 4) You then have to click on the snapshots button on the popup dialog. 5) Only then can you modify the setting for the current snapshot. If you want to modify another setting for the current SS, each time you want to change a setting, you have to click on the parameter assignment button on the left of the setting you want to change, and then on the snapshots button on the popup dialog. Otherwise, any change you make are not just made on your current SS, it's made universally; for all the snapshots. So I'll stand with my earlier comments about how efficient/practical this 'technique' of setting snapshot is.

Sustain pedals are basically compressors (compress sound; made low volume sounds loud), and in the Go appear under 'Dynamics'. I'm really not the expert in compressors, and I've not yet explored every one in the Go in detail, but there's a lot in the Go! Searching for 'best sustainers', the MXR Dyna Comp is often recommended as a sustainer, it's the "Red Squeeze" in Go. The Xotic SP compressor comes up (ex; "Really great as a sustain!", " doubles my sustain without altering my original tone "etc.), "kinky comp" in go, etc. Just playing quickly with some of them, I really like the Rochester Comp. But yeah there's a lot of choice! https://helixhelp.com/models/ This thread has a lot of info/comments on compressors:

Welcome to L6 POD Go. https://line6.com/support/topic/56809-error-while-updating-to-firmware-111-pod-go-wont-boot-up/ tldr; Download the L6 Updater software. Boot Go in update mode (Press and hold PAGE > (page right) and then power on POD Go), then try to update with that. If it fails, unplug and close everything try again, and possibly again, and again, and again... Keep your fingers crossed!

Fine. Surely if lots of people are familiar with it and it's the easiest interface for any multi-FX device you’ve ever used, I should just have figured everything out and not posted any of those questions and shouldn't have complained, since as you say they're not going to change it. You're 100% right. Thanks again for helping me figure out how to edit the snapshots in PG Edit. Thanks for chipping in.

Alright... The next day... phil_m: First of all thanks for your help it helped me understand "bypass snapshot" and the snapshots! =) (probably could not have done it without you... LOL) I'm just ranting and venting here (also trolling, just a little.. hehe) so please just take my comments with more than a grain of salt! ;) Reading the Line 6 manual or sentences like these make me believe I am dyslexic... I have no idea what that bold sentence is supposed to mean... 15 minutes fiddling with the editor, and reading doc & this comment, I think I finally understand it. So apparently, the only thing this "snapshot bypass" does is that when it is unchecked (off), when you turn on the effect block on/off in Edit, it changes the on/off state for all snapshots. But every parameter value (except on/off) are still applied. So the block is not really bypassed now is it? That's the type of silly nonsense I'm talking about when I say that it's idiosyncratic. It's ridiculous. ([edit/Correction] Ah ok... As you said, it's only "Parameters you have assigned to controller" which do change, fantastic, that way people trying to figure out how it works can get confused with this incredible logic where it's bypassed but then it's not bypassed! Wonderful! Thanks L6!) Also, if you want to bypass the on/off state of the block, shouldn't the option be on/checked instead of off/unchecked? Bypass = "A means of circumvention.". If you want to bypass something; circumvent something; go around it, the bypass option should be TURNED ON, OR CHECKED. And if you DO NOT want to bypass, then the option SHOULD BE TURNED OFF, OR UNCHECKED. Yet, in Pod Go Edit, it's the opposite. You want to bypass the state of the snapshot. But in PG Edit, "snapshot bypass" checked(on) = block on/off state not bypassed, and "snapshot bypass" unckecked(off) = block on/off state bypassed. But to go back to the "snapshot bypass" feature. In what use case would that option ever be useful? If you're in snapshot mode, you can switch between SS 1/2/3/4, but you can't really turn on or effects using the foot switches, and if you're using snapshots, which are basically used to switch from one set of parameters to others using the foot switches, I don't really see the case where you'd want to fiddle with knobs to edit parameters on the fly (or while playing LOL) and somehow manually manage one or many blocks while switching snapshots. LOL Just doesn't seem very useful, and I don't get why it's the 2nd thing (1st is how to select snapshots) in the manual, before even "how to configure snapshots"... It's really so silly, so badly explained in the manual, and the function works illogically and the checkboxes for bypass on/off are inverted, like seriously... Even with a cooler head, this sh!t's ridiculous...! GP Edit should be able to take the 4 snapshots, compare them with one another and only assign as parameters for the values which change between snapshots. I mean it's not rocket science, it's full blown software running on a PC, we're in 2020, and L6 coders can't compare 4 snapshots to find the differences and automatically assign as parameters...?! A list of snapshot/paramValue differences, iterate through each snapshots parameter and see if they're the same for the 4 snapshots, if param value is different add to list. Done! Your list of differences contain your parameters... An intern could code this in 20 minutes... lmfao! I mean sorry to sound like an lollipop, but seriously... This is ridiculous...

There's another thread about it, could just be one of the multiple Pod Go common crash/bug issues... search the forum... If I wasn't so exhausted from a long day at work and a frustrating evening trying to figure out Pod Go Edit snapshots, I'd have looked for you, but I'm just too darn exhausted right now... :\ (gawd im such a drama queen lol)

Sure, that's what you would expect, except if you try to do it like that, it doesn't work...! So I guess it's 'basically' how it works just like monopoly money is basically real money...! Or faith healing is basically chemotherapy...! lol ;) So yeah, you try it how it should logically work, and it doesn't work. So you open the manual, find the snapshot section. First it tells you how to select a snapshot, good, then you're met with this: So basically, you need to set your blocks snapshot bypasses? What's "snapshot bypass" option? What does it do? But all of the blocks are set to "snapshot bypass" checked (ON) by default, which don't really make much sense if you don't want to bypass the blocks in the snapshots... But from the manual, if you want the snapshot to bypass the blocks, you need to uncheck "snapshot bypass" (off), then the block will be excluded from the snapshot. So, "snapshot bypass" checked/on means that the snapshots will not bypass the blocks...?! Does that really make sense? Did I read it wrong? How is this so confusing?! So seems the opposite of 'bypassing'... Bypassing on/checked means it's not bypassing, and bypassing off/unchecked means it's bypassing, whatever... So, let's say SS1 sets level = 1, and SS3 sets level = 10, and SS2 has level = 5, but has the effect block "snapshot bypass" checked/on, then it will change the value of level to 5 is you recall SS2? But, if "snapshot bypass" is unchecked/off, then it will bypass the SS2 level = 5 and will not change the level value? Is that it? I just tested it, with snapshot bypass off, it changes the value of the level. And with it on, it also changes the level... So either way it doesn't seem to be bypassed... It doesn't even work. And even if I turn the effect block on/off with different snapshots, the "snapshot bypass" on/off value seems to do squat. So what does it even do? And why is this the 1st thing in the manual for snapshot configuration?! And how is it possible to be so unclear about what the feature does?! Then carrying on... I'm sorry but that's completely different than my 3 steps above...!! You have to mess with controllers, deal with the same super annoying "assignment indicators" on the left... Why can't you just function the same way you normally configure the patches?! (EDIT: it really does work like the manual states. Strikethrough = false) But yeah, after reading your post and trying it out, it is much less painful than the 5 steps above tell you to do and will make you believe... Since once you hit the 'snapshots' button in the 'select controller' after pressing "assignment indicator, any other value you change is automatically saved in the snapshot. Something which is not mentioned above. In Step #5, it clearly tells you: "repeat the above steps to create snapshot assignments for additional parameters, allowing all to have your determined values recalled per snapshot!". It doesn't say that you can change other values without having to go through steps 1-4... So reading that s###, it seemed like you had to click on the assignment indicator, then (you have to) click on assign parameter, then on snapshots button, for every single parameter, for every single snapshot...!!! Anyway, yeah, snapshots aren't as bad as they appeared to be after trying to figure it out in the PG Edit & then reading the manual. But again, why is it so horrendously documented in the manual, and why do you even have to click on the stupid "assignment indicator" and then the snaphot in the select controller window?! Switching snapshots should just allow you to change values. Maybe a checkbox on top [ ] EDIT SNAPSHOTS on the toolbar which allows you to directly edit snapshots, without that ridiculous "it is first necessary to create a snapshot controller assignment for the parameter (other than for the Bypass)"... At least if the manual was clear and clearly explained how it works. Anyway... Extremely frustrating. All those annoyances, bricked unit during firmware update, can't press footswitch from Edit, losing min/max values when clicking on footswitch, can't edit footswitch values from the footswitch, can't turn on/off pedals from Edit, poor manual, idiosyncratic & unintuitive PG Edit for snapshots and others. All those add up and just make working with the Go a PITA. It's sad. It's a good unit for what it does; emulation. But my god... Everything around it just kinda sucks. The software, the interface... It's not the worse, it's just not good, and frustrating and annoying to deal with.

So since this is basically my whining thread (lol) and I basically gave up on the min/max values, I decided to give snapshots a Go. And boy, was I not impressed... The way I imagined snapshots would work: 1) You configure your Go settings as you want: This is your base settings, normal; snapshot1 aka SS1. 2) You switch to snapshot 2 (SS2); if it's 'empty', it just keeps your current settings (SS1), if SS2 has been configured, it loads SS2 settings. 3) You modify your settings as you would in #1, which basically this modifies SS2, like you would normally configure PG. repeat the above #2 and #3 for SS3 and SS4, save done. Simple, elegant, easy to work with. You setup your snapshots as you would normally setup Pod Go. Instead, we got this monstrosity: ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- WHY?! So honestly, I could never have imagined that Snapshots would also be such a mess. I'm flabbergasted. Before buying the Go, one of the advertised plus for the Helix/Go over others was simplicity, and I was totally unprepared of having to deal with such idiosyncratic configuration behavior. I'm astonished. Amazed. Speechless... How did such a horrendous system make it to market?! I don't get it... I've read the manual like 4 times now, and I can't fathom how anyone would dare claim that it is a logical and practical way to edit snapshots. TLDR: Snapshot editing from Pod Go Edit = I want to die, so I'm going home.

I don't really get it since it already does most of it... Ex: If you disable a block in the Editor, it will disable the block on the Pod Go (PG)... And if there is a foot switch (FS) linked to the block, it will turn the FS on or off on the PG. So the Edit software already has the ability to control the FS status (on/off). They even already have the GUI for the foot switches... Just implement the likely 5 lines of code so that when you click on it, it turns it on/off, and in the GUI it goes dark... It's simple programming stuff, if their software isn't made by clowns (meaning it's badly coded and falls apart as soon as you touch any of it), should only take a couple of hours for a single programmer...! But no, you get some moronic functions instead where if you click on a FS in the GUI, it assigns new functions or resets existing functions.. It's so ridiculous... Plus not being able to turn on/off FS with multiple parameters... As i said, the min/max features seem half-assed... Badly designed, maybe rushed due to delivery date crunch, etc., but man, it's so ridiculous, it's such bad functionality... Honestly, I work in tech, in software, and the notion that you could not 'fully' edit your patches from the PG Edit seemed so ridiculous to me it's probably why I didn't even conceive the possibility in the first place. It's really so ridiculous... But hey, likely delivery dates & it's not a 'huge' feature, so I guess it was either delivery as it is now, or nothing.

Not sure you're responding to who...! The TLDR of the questions would be this: 0) Can you, by pressing a button or whatever from PG Edit, apply all the min or the max values so you can hear what it'll sounds like? (as if you had pushed the FS on the Pod Go, so it activates/deactivates the effects and sets the min/max values) -> answer is apparently: No. (has to be done from PG) 1) change multiple parameters white FS light to yellow: No. 2) Can you turn on/off a multiple parameter from the PG Edit. -> answer is apparently: No. (has to be done from PG) 3) Can you click somewhere in PG Edit so that you can edit the multiple parameters assiged to a FS? Answer is apparently: No. You can edit values in individual block settings, but there is no way to access the different parameter values by just clicking on a FS in PG Edit. When you click on a FS in the "Bypass/Control Window" it screws up the settings or adds a new setting you don't want, and if you click on the FSx on top of the blocks in the chain, you only have the parameters for the current block. You can remove parameters by clicking on '...' of a FS in "Bypass/Control Window", but there is apparently no way to select the FS and then edit all of its assigned the values, something which should have been a basic feature...

You can't even edit properly with the PG Edit, as I said way too many limitations. You need access to the PG itself to fiddle with the foot switches and check FS status on the unit itself, and some parts of PG Edit are just badly designed and totally unpractical & PITA to use. If I had to rate so far the Go: Sound quality /features/etc: 9/10 I'd say it's near perfect for me. More effects would be nice (ex 5 or 6 'anything' effects block instead of 4), but no biggie, what it does is already plenty. Editing from the Pod Go: 4/10. A big pain the butt to set what you want to set because of the badly designed user interface and super long lists to scroll through. Just slow & not fun. Editing from the Pod Go Edit: 6/10. It works well for the simple stuff; setting parameters and turning blocks and effect on and off. But once you try to use it to set min/max values and FS with multiple values, it really, really sucks. So maybe 7.5/10 for editing easy stuff, and 3/10 for min/max and editing multiple foot switches. Plus as I said you can't even edit properly with just Pod Go Edit, you absolutely need to fiddle and check stuff (FS on/off for instance) on the Pod Go unit itself, which is stupid. lollipop = censored expletive. This. I think the multiple parameter thing is just half-assed and unpractical to use. I think we'd all be much better off forgetting they even exist and just go with snapshots. (all my above complaints go away if you're just using the 'basic' settings and have 1 on/off block bypass per FS...)

Ok so from what I could find in the manual and searching in other threads (FS = Foot Switch) 0) Couldn't find about activating/deactivating FS. Of course, you can enable/disable blocks, but not 'press' a footswitch from PG Edit... Lame, or did I miss something? 1) you cannot change the FS color; with 2 changes it becomes white and it stays white. 2) Couldn't find anything in the manual to change the state of a button with press/depressed... But now I think that the Edit settings are for the switches all at ON, and if you want to ... No I can't figure out how the logic of how this lollipoping thing works... The only way I think you can do it is if you physically press on the FS of the Go to save the button states, otherwise, they're always on it seems like on the PG Edit and you just can't change it... Which is lollipoping stupid. Yeah, after messing more with it, it is lollipoping stupid. You have zero visual cues from Edit about the state of the FS with multiple parameters, and when you save, it saves the block status relative to the FS status of the Go (whether it's on or off). Then it just inverts the status of the block vs the light of the FS when you press it. So if your FS on the Go is light up, and you save from the Edit with the block off, then the block on/off is inverted to the FS on/off. Absolutely ridiculous... 3) Couldn't find anything about how how to click on a FS and being able to edit its parameters... If you know the parameter (ex; output level), seems you can click on the little FS button next to the setting, but left clicking on the FS will always lollipop things up, and right clicking you can see the setting but not edit it. It's lollipoping stupid. And if you go from the FSx on top of the chain, then you don't have access to parameters outside of your block. Unless again I missed something. Anyway, looks like really lollipop design, really stupid. Yeah this is pretty lollipoping frustrating. It seems pretty much half-assed like if PG Edit can control the Go, but in actuality it can't really, it can only control a limited set of functions and you can't just use the computer to configure/use the Go, you absolutely need physical access to the Go itself to do the things you can't do from PG Edit. Also after reading 30 pages of the stupid manual and coming up with pretty much zero answers to my questions, plus an hour of testing to try to figure this lollipop out, I mean, I like the Go for what can do, but this entire experience with the brick unit during update and rather lollipop software is really disappointing and frustrating. A real PAIN IN THE A$$