SaschaFranck

Depends on the send level of your pedal, but usually, the Stomp can deal with a very wide range of levels on the "plain" input, so I'd possibly just use that as it's kinda the default (and who knows, maybe you want to abuse the Stomp's loops for something else one day). Just take a listen whether there's any clipping. I run my Stomp as a time based FX pedal only as well, using the "normal" input, sending, hm, let's say a sort of low level line signal into it. Works great.

Fwiw, my method to remove fizz and boom from any sound I'm using live is to use IRs that have both ends of the spectrum removed almost brutally. In the end, there's hardly any musically useful information in any kind of typical guitar sound above, say, 5-6kHz. So I cut there. I don't trim everything out but I'm using an extremely steep high cut. In the end, there's still a bit of the range above there, so should I ever need it, I could get it back with some EQ. Usually doesn't happen. As said, we're talking live purposes here. And fwiw, I'm doing this destructively straight on the IR. Admittely, with the new cabs, I don't have to do it when using the Stomp, but in my live rig it's for delay and reverb only, still need IRs for my other amp sims (Amplifirebox and Amp Academy).

Why would you put a speaker IR in front of an amp? If you really wanted to tame fizz there, you could use a simple EQ. Also, what would an additional DI offer to you? The Helix has a built in one. Ok, using an external one would help avoid the phantom power issue, but others than that? That's quite an awkward statement. Usually, at low levels your hearing will also perceive less high end. This has been proven in numerous listening tests and is the reason for a "loudness" button to exist on cheap HiFis (which is enhancing the low and top end). It's also kind of the base idea behind the "Fletcher Munson Effect". And as a result, it's usually the best idea to check for highs and lows at rehearsal or gig volume.

To me it sounds a lot as if you were hitting HX Native pretty hard. Just try again with lower input settings.

Modelers made with outdoor use intents should actually be white. In direct sunlight, it makes a world of a difference.

Lots of people have already been reporting similar things about the HX family devices. These things aren't made for direkt sunlight. The very bad visibility gives it away, too. If you have to play lots of such gigs, get some sort of sunshield or a different modeler.

https://line6.com/support/topic/65019-helixhx-update-doesnt-work-look-here/

An impedance output setting would make no sense. Input impedance of amps/pedals is all about the load your pickups "see". So, if you wanted the most faithful "straight into amp" feel, you'd have to find out about the JTMs input impedance and see whether there's an appropriate setting in the Floor's input block.

No. But you will need to use the Line 6 Updater for the update in case you want to do it offline. So, what you needed would be: - The actual update flash file - Line 6 Updater You can then tell the Updater to perform an offline update without even logging in. You will only need the appropriate version of HX Edit later on (to - well - edit, to re-load your preferences and presets). No, not in case he downloaded the firmware flash file already.

Why talk about it? I rather play around with it. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TD1NX-VoaoAJa6dOkPp2Qi64zLOwvGYJ/view?usp=sharing

From all I know, to start the HX Effects up reliably you'll need at least 2 isolated (!) 500mA outlets for each HX FX device, which makes 4 in total. In addition you need a current doubler cable, combining 2 outlets into one supplying a total current of 1000mA. And as Line 6 had the stupid idea to use different than standard plugs (2.5mm instead of 2.1mm), you might need another adapter - but fortunately, Voodoo Lab has a current doubler with 2 x 2.1mm ins and 1 2.5mm out, directly suitable for the HX series, the name is "Voodoo Lab HX Curr. Doubler Adapter PPHX". As far as power supplies are concerned, you'd have to look for some overhead, especially as you're also planning to power up some more cables. So, given that your two HX Effects will already consume up to 2A, you might want a device supplying 3A or so in total. And as said, it's absolutely mandatory for the outlets to be isolated!

Does it really have to be a Helix for busking? You could get lots of other pretty decent devices with vastly more comfortable power requirements for pretty little money and run them from a stock powerbank. Would also massively reduce the size of the entire kit. And you might even save some money.

No idea what latency has got to do with this. Doesn't really matter when it's all about a backingtrack.

Let me tell you: It does. But let me also tell you: I had a tough time grasping the "concepts" behind things as well at first. Sure. But in that case, the Helix serves as a USB client (or "slave", if you will). I know. But for that to work, you need a USB host (or "master", if you will). You'd need that for power supplement as well (which USB B ports don't deliver). Feel free doing so. You got the explanation above, though. Your BT plug wouldn't even wake up as there's no bus power running on the Helix' USB port. Seriously, it's pointless to even just try.

No, won't work as the Helix is no USB host (which would be needed for that BT plug to work). The solution is using either a plain old audio cable (3.5mm to 6.3mm, TRS) and run it into the aux input or a camera connection kit running into the USB port. In that case, the Helix should become available as a playback device on your iPhone (no warranty, though, I'm not using an iPhone).

How did you create your patches at home? Listening to them in stereo? Otherwise, in case you're using the left/mono out with your amp, use whatever you feel like. I sometimes use stereo FX in my mono live setup because they're not available in mono (such as the ping pong delay, which defenitely makes sense in mono, too, once you use the offset parameter, which I do). On the left/mono out the L and R sides will be mixed to mono. Only problem would be in case you listened to them in stereo while creating them. Back in my HX/Floor days I always inserted a mono EQ block at the end of the chain because of that (which then serves the same purpose as the L/mono out, namely mixing things down to mono). Well, they all have a level control, which isn't related to the FX level but the overall output of the block. So just use that.

It can't be disabled. And it's driving me mad. It's even getting worse as soon as a switch is controlling multiple things - in that case the LED status is changing when you just briefly touch the switch. All you can disable is the "select by touch" function, the rest stays intact. Which is absolutely most horribly on a Stomp where there's very little space between the switches and knobs. Has been driving me mad multiple times by now. Line 6 should really adress that.

100% exactly the same here. So it's defenitely a software issue.

Same here. Fortunately, it usually goes away after moving it around a bit and likely reloading the patch. And btw, I just hate the new encoder ballistics. They should steal from Zoom in the future.

Did you read the update instructions? That was to be expected.

You might want to check here: Not gonna lie, though, the screen doesn't look too great, so maybe there's something wrong with the hardware. Give the above steps a try, though.

Select block, hold footswitch, you'll be asked whether you'd like to assign it.

Not sure how much this actually "improves" things (I mean, I don't even know whether I need improvements in that area), but it's pretty interesting for sure. Unfortunately I could never put this to use live, which I would find to be interesting (even when I still had the Floor, my patches were maxed out in terms of options (not CPU), with the Stomp it's completely impossible). Anyhow, as said before, at one point in time I will most likely purchase a Tonex pedal and this technique will be just another one I'm going to put to good use, so thanks!

Quite interesting, gonna check that out later on. And fwiw, in case it's "wasting" too much CPU, we will all just create a TONEX model out of this in the near future (it's just too affordable to pass).

How is it more complicated? Things too boomy: Reach for the low cut. Things too shrill: Reach for the high cut. In either case, adjust to taste. In some cases, it might not be sufficient, though. From all I know, the cab block cuts are coming in at 6dB per octave, which is very little. The dedicated hi/lo cut block however is cutting much steeper (I'd say at least with 12dB/oct). Using the cuts on the cab/IR blocks could hence possibly result in having to cut too deep into the "meat" of the sound. But then, all this is soo subjective, best to simply fool around with things.