dboomer

You don't by chance have the lockout switch on the transmitter turned on do you.

Does the audio LED on the transmitter light up even when you cannot hear it? Do the RF LEDs on the receiver stay on even when you cannot hear the sound? If the answer is yes to both questions then you will probably need to send it to the service department to have the hardware checked out. If the Audio LED does not come on with light strumming then it is possible that you might have a bad cable and/or input jack.

Yes, you will need an external computer to be able to run the Belden editor program.

Did you shut the 2.4G off? You can do that in the advanced system setup software that came with the router. Highly recommended.

You could get distortion by setting the receiver's output gain too high. I would recommend that you not boost it at all unless you have no other means. Boosting the output cuts down on headroom (same as just about every other piece of gear). You'd be much better off to just turn up the gain on the mic preamp. You are running into a mic input (and not a line input) on your mixer aren't you?

Switching modes won't cause distortion. Remember you are only dealing with digital data and not audio itself. Something else must have changed when you switched if you and now hearing distortion. Depending on what wi-fi channels are operation and which Line 6 channels are running you may have difficulties running in RF2 mode. Ideally you should not run more than 1 wi-fi channel when operation in RF2 mode. That way you should be able to run 8 Line 6 channels. If possible you should align your antennas with your WAPs on the dead side of the antennas and your wireless mics on the live sides. You don't want to use any more gain than necessary as it can overload the receivers' front end and you may get dropouts.

If they are new enough to have v2 firmware (or have been upgraded) when you turn on the transmitter the Batt and Audio LEDs will light up together. Right after that the Batt LED will either blink once (RF1) or twice (RF2). RF2 mode exists for people that can well control their wi-fi environment. If you try to run in RF2 mode and cannot then you could run into problems. Switching to RF1 mode usually takes care of that.

Yep ... there is a cajon icon if you want to. Everyone should at least take a look. Maybe you just wanna change the guitar color from sunburst to blue to match yours :) In the video when you switch to new icons you'll see a box that says "show catagories". Bunch of good stuff hidden there.

How well your iPad stays connected depends on a number of things but usually local conditions and interference. Remember wi-fi is wi-fi. It just isn't terribly robust. One trick that will likely improve your experiences with using the dongle is to use a short USB extension cable and get it up in the air. When it is in straight in the mixer and the mixer is at desk height you may lose line of sight as the audience walks in its way. Getting it overhead can be a big help. External routers are often more powerful so you can usually expect extended range compared to the dongles. Even better if you gat a router that can run on 5GHZ and switch the 2.4GHZ off. That way your audiences cell phones won't be interfering with your iPad connection.

Having 2 modes available gives you more tools to deal with different wi-fi situations. Here's a short video to help explain them

Hey everyone I assume that everyone has made some at least small tweaks to the factory presets to suit your own style. Do you know how to save them as custom presets? I just posted a short video on the Line 6 YouTube channel. You can check it out from this link ... Let me know if you have any questions?

The one is a bit easier. This usually means the little switch down inside the XLR is stuck. You can probably free it by pressing on it with a toothpick. I think the fact that there are so many brands of plugs nowadays and they are not all the same size. That leaves that little switch without getting the wiggle it expects when you pull out the plug. If you think there is something wrong with the channels you can test using a constant tone and plugging into all channels one at a time. Start by creating a new setup. That will clear out any old preset info. Then when you plug in the XLR you'll get the plain mic on the screen. Just make sure the trim level is the same for all inputs.

Do you know for certain that they are both running in the same RF mode (the firmware does not have to be the same but the mode must be)? If not they will take each other off the air. Have you gone down the troubleshooting list in the knowledge base?

Macs use their built-in "Core Audio" feature and do not generally require loading any drivers.

So backing up a bit ... did you create a folder on the SD card for the recording to live in prior to recording? If so, did you ever record into this folder before?

I use the same and have had no problems. You might check the firmware in your airport express. I would suggest resetting the Apple express and connecting again. In my case i use the same iPad but with multiple mixers. I've found in that case deleting the setup in the iPad itself and then reconnecting is helpful

The most frequent mistakes I see are not resetting the router before connecting it to the M20d and not plugging into the LAN port. Remember you are setting up a local network and not going on the internet. After the router connected to the mixer you can go back using the GUI and change to the 5GHz mode only (assuming your router itself is capable of that). Also USB to Ethernet adapters that are not Apple brand most likely will not work even though they may be specified to work with Apple products. Please use the Apple branded part.

Thanks Dale Please keep posting. If there is a problem we certainly want to know about it. One more thing to try (if the problem re-occurs) would be to move to different inputs. It's possible there could be a hardware issue and Channel one just drops volume regardless if ti's a stereo or a mono input. It could simply be channel 1 is at fault.

"Yeah, I did try swapping the cables with the VLT still hooked up and also tried hooking up my HD500 to the same inputs.....the problem remained" I'm not certain this answered my question. I expect the problem would remain but I would need to know if the low side switched to the other side when the input cables were reversed. Trim tracking is setup in stereo on stereo presets. That is to say that if it is trigger to take action it does it over both channels so that if one side was the problem it would preserve the stereo balance by operating on both channels equally. That said ... you could try switching the trim tracking off and seeing if it made any difference. But whatever caused the problem may have self-repaired itself and it might not happen again anyway so this would probably only be helpful if the problem was happening frequently. Another place you could look would to create a new setup from scratch. It is possible that something in the setup you are using is corrupt somehow.

So the first thing to check is to flip the input cables and see if the problem also flips. If it does then the problem is with the sending unit. If it doesn't then we'll need to look at the mixer.

Hi Case It's certainly not fun when problems happen. Has this happened only once to you or does it continue to happen? From here I'd just have to guess at the problem, but the first thing I would do is try a different SD card just to rule that out.

Unfortunately you cannot at this time.

Most users turn the sensitivity on their amps up too much. That's why we put the click stop on them in the StageSource speakers. Set them there and then make any adjustments you want on the mixer. As far as FBS, yes it it better to use it in the mixer than one the speakers if you have the choice. Take a look at this thread http://line6.com/support/topic/2422-fbs-in-the-stagescape/

Compression, while it may make your mix sound better it will lower your maximum "Gain Before Feedback " by an equal number of dB as the amount of compression you apply. so this may or may not be a compromise you can take If you never got as much bass level on the stage before you simply didn't have as much low frequency output as you do now. Flipping polarity will either cut your bass, boost your bass or make almost zero difference. But if it does cut your bass level it will only be cutting your acoustic level and your amps will still be working as hard as they were before. So in this respect its kinda like dragging an anchor behind your car to slow down when you could just let off the gas a bit. You can just turn down you levels. What you cannot really do is get the same level in front of your speaker and less on the side (or rear) of your sub without taking some very expensive measures. If you would like to know what this is google "cardioid subs".

"I also found that that there's a ton of bass coming off the sides of the subs that, depending on sub placement, can really raise your stage volume levels. Set up the subs much farther away from the band tonight and that seemed to make a difference." That would be normal for any regular sub cabinet. Subs essentially have no pattern control so as much sound comes off the sides as the back as the front. As you have found adding some distance can be your friend in this situation.