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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/14/2018 in all areas

  1. Will there be a forum specific for HX Effects? - that would be a great help for HX Effects users. BR Lasse
    1 point
  2. Hello I am a HXFX user and i really like the custome tones But i think we really need to add a description of the TONE because we dont know what is it. So we download TONES that we dont need/ Thanx Very Much. \ Guillermo from Argentina
    1 point
  3. 1 point
  4. I'm sorry your Helix is broken but you need to understand that warrantees expire and stuff breaks. This is not the fault of line6 or the fact that your warranty expired. I hope nothing goes wrong with my unit but I understand that it could break at any time and for any reason.....warrantee or not. Why does everybody feel the need to blame someone when they've been inconvenienced? Respectfully, sometimes crap just happens and the way you choose to respond says more about you than it does anything else. Don't be a hater.....just get it fixed and move on.
    1 point
  5. Thanks jak_E_lee. That was the trick. I can hardly believe it was this simple. Nobody knew what caused this, so I spent a fortune on amps the last couple of years. And now I fixed it in less than an hour (Including a trip to the store for some Contact Spray) Thank you very very much!
    1 point
  6. Agree it would be great to have a polyphonic harmonizer, synth, whammy, tuner etc. on the Helix. You are not generally going to get chords to track well or at all on an effect like a harmonizer for now on the Helix, it is monophonic. We need polyphonic processing to process chords which is hopefully coming to the Helix sometime in the future. There has been some promising discussion of late from Line6 regarding that but who knows what or when. They apparently have some recent hires experienced with polyphonic programming.
    1 point
  7. 1. "B-stock" doesn't necessarily mean "used"... unit might have been a store demo, in which case it shouldn't be an issue, as you'd be the first owner. I'd check with the store on that one. 2. I use them separately, and Native rather sparingly thus far....and when I have, I just used templates that I set up during my free trial period, before I bought the hardware. But I'm pretty sure you can just drag and drop patches between Native and HX Edit...somebody will chime in though. 3. No. Helix has no power section... you'll need either A) a power amp, B) a head you can "slave", or C) separate powered speaker(s). There are plenty of options out there now . Search "FRFR" threads... you'll read for days. 4. It's 2018... at this point, the next tech revolution is always right around the corner, and that's not gonna change. That's why NAMM happens every 6 months. If you allow that to affect your decisions, you'll never buy anything. But don't think of this kind of gear as an "investment", because it just isn't. As good as Helix is, it will eventually be dethroned by something better...and probably a whole lot sooner than you'd find a genuine "need" to upgrade. If you don't want to buy anything else for the next 10-20 years, stick with an amp you like, and a bunch of pedals. Those will still work "after the blast", and you don't have to worry about firmware updates keeping up with newer operating systems, etc etc.  5. There are zero guarantees.... and L6 isn't gonna tell you what their plans are...they never do. There hasn't been an update for the HD series in quite a while, but they're still selling them. Similarly, I would expect Helix to still be on the shelves for some time after it's replacement arrives and updates have ceased...whenever that may be. But I wouldn't worry about for a while yet...we just got new firmware a few days ago. But exactly how long till the gravy train runs dry is anybody's guess. 
    1 point
  8. guys,mine did this and heres how i fixed it. The leads from the speakers on my 2x12 vetta,i removed them,cleaned the plug where they go on to the pcb with contact cleaner and brush then i took the leads and twisted them in a helix formation....it solved the issue straight up and it hasnt returned
    1 point
  9. Okay, found the solution. For me at least, anyway.... KEEP YOUR 3 YEAR OLD GRANDDAUGHTER AWAY FROM YOUR SPIDER AMP. Yup, she had unplugged my cord and stuck it back in the AUX hole. Live and learn. Personally, I've never used that particular input before. Sweet Amelia thought I should try it out.
    1 point
  10. I received my G10 today and the same problem, it's been charging for many hours and still flashing Red. Still not working, Still won't work or hold any charge :/ Very disappointing. I guess I will return and stick to my G70 and multiple transmitters :/ I read above one guy is still waiting after 36 hours of charging and no luck.... Anyone had this problem? was it replaced/faulty etc? Update: Still not working, I've just seen a few others with the same problem and units were faulty. I will return it and stick to my G70 and multiple transmitters as I've now seen more people with the same problem :/
    1 point
  11. Getting a good distortion tone starts with gain staging. It may be hard to get a range of different distortion tones from Clean, Blues, Crunch, and Metal from one amp or pedal. But combining them together in stages using different blocks, models and tone adjustments can give you a lot of flexibility on the amount and color of distortion and sustain. One thing that's important is to use the least amount of distortion (effects, etc.) you need for the song. This makes things simpler, produces the best tone, and gives you a place to go in the next song. Music needs space. Start with your desired clean sound, using the neck pickup on your guitar with the guitar volume and tone all the way up. This is your inital, set point amp tone and something you'll need to be able to go back to. Once this tone is right you'll probably notice that it's too bright for the bridge pickup, creating too much edge, or an "ice pick" tone that unpleasant after listening for a while. Don't change the amp to fix this since that would break your neck pickup tone. Instead roll back the tone control on your guitar to warm up the bridge pickup a little. A lot of people never touch the tone controls on the guitar, or only use them for slide. But the bridge pickup tone control is actually pretty useful. Next add a gain stage for warm, just on the edge of breakup, Blues distortion tones. As distortion increases, base has to be cut to prevent a muddy, indistinct sound that competes with the bass player, and treble needs to be cut to avoid fizz, buzz and ice pick. But since a Blues tone isn't that much distortion, you can often get this from the Drive control on the amp. Assign a footswitch to the Drive control and assign a controller to set the min (clean) and max (blues) Drive distortion levels. In this case, the drive is increased to add some amp distortion without changing the tone. Be careful to minimize the amount of distortion or it will get muddy and bright quick. For a Cruch sound, you'll need a bit more distortion, which will require some base and treble cut. I like to use the Studio Tube Pre for this as it adds a nice tone of its own, and has the Drive control for increased distortion and the low cut and high cut you need to adjust the tone. Use the Sensitivity control to adjust the amount of distortion that can be produced by the Studio Tube Pre. Set Sensitivity to Mic for greater distortion, Line for cleaner tones (the Drive can be set higher without adding any distortion). I use Mic for this application as I want more distortion. Other options for Crunch: Valve Driver, Minotar, or ProCo Rat. I know the ProCo Rat is intended for high distortion levels, but it actually cleans up very well by turning the drive down and adjusting the filter for the desired high end. I think this block increase bass cut with increased drive, which is just what you want. For Metal or more agressive tones, I like Compulsive Drive (Fulton OCD). Screamer works well too. Use the tone control to adjust the high end. If it gets too muddy, try adding a Low and High cut EQ filter in front of the distortion, and link the low cut to the distortion footswitch to cut closer to 80 Hz when the distortion is off, 160 Hz when it's on. Now you have four distortion levels, all off for Clean, and each block on/off for Blues, Crunch, Metal. Now you can start combining stages to get even more tones. For example, I like to combine Blues and Crunch together for a more aggressive blues solo.
    1 point
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