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psarkissian

Service Engineer Moderator
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Everything posted by psarkissian

  1. Yes. But check the Downloads page for Computer OS compatibility.
  2. Yes. It's the same main board and Firmware as the JTV's, so the same features, including the Force/Don't Force that allows for the floor effects to control models and tuning in the Variax.
  3. Lower or raise it,... depends on what the distance between the strings and magnets are now. Lo-E and Hi-E, depress the the highest fret. Distance on Lo-E = 3mm, distance on Hi-E 2mm,... dial it in one way or the other as needed.
  4. Worked for me. I sucked at palm muting (on electric guitars) until all this came to light here. Now I'm better cause of it. But then, that's just me.
  5. "This is not a sloppy technique problem", it can be sometimes. "doesn't have a blessed thing to do with what kind of pick one might be using", it can be sometimes.
  6. - There's is also dual tone effect. This occurs when using Alt Tune function, hearing the standard tune off the guitar, while hearing the Alt tuning through the amp. Sounds the worst when it is a half step or whole step down, not so bad for 3rds, perfect 4th or 5th. - Warbling is a result of distance between the strings and pick-up pole pieces. The traverse excursion (sorry for the tech jargon) of the string is interrupted by the pull of the magnet on the string, causing it to warble when in modeling mode. - Whistling howls are a result of tuning or intonation, and are more apparent when using harmonics. Both tuning or intonation have to be spot on. - Palm muting,... make certain all strings are sufficiently muted, so that they won't sympathetically ring. Stiffer picks don't make a thwacking noise as much.
  7. If you physically tune down one and a half steps below standard, that will warble. Go down a whole step, then,... use the Alt Tune, you can go lower. Also make use of Workbench HD's tuning functions, and save it as part of your patch.
  8. Speaker cut-off when using headphones out, has to do with impedance. To have both going at the same time would heat the amp chip and blow something.
  9. Put amp into "Standby" mode, main power on, let it warm up 2-3 minutes, then turn standby switch to on position. Tube amps that make use of a heater element circuit, it's a good idea to let it warm up 2-3 minutes before taking it out of "Standby" mode. Swapping tubes,... I hope they are the specified tubes and that the power tubes are matched pairs,.... DT-50 Series: 12AX7EH Electro-Harmonix approved for the DT50 pre-amps. EL34EH Electro-Harmonix (matched pairs) for the power amps. ... and that the power tubes were correctly biased.
  10. They are Line 6 part numbers. I'll look for the equivalent Yamaha numbers. "OK do you mean ask someone like Andertons in the UK?", yes, someone like them.
  11. Someone in Support here recommended try going through a retailer there using the following part numbers,... 98-034-0009 for the battery 98-034-0001 for the charger kit
  12. No. Hoping you'll hear from them soon. If there is a problem, I'll take it to my people here, and see what's up with that. I don't get why Brexit would make it such a problem. It's not a fishing territory issue like it is with UK and France.
  13. Try E&M Electronics in Milton Keynes near Bletchley. They are the L6 authorized service there.
  14. Either it's time for the tubes to be replaced, or there's an intermittent solder point somewhere. Take it to a Line 6 authorized service center and have them check it out and service it.
  15. Check the user manual online about adjusting the display contrast. Many times it's just that it got maladjusted by mistake somehow. It happens. Check that before spending on service repair.
  16. I'm always relaxed. No problem, typos are easy to do. Ah, that the ticket. Looking through the tickets to see what they were about, as I do repair, not support tickets. Hmmm,... interesting tickets from 3-years ago.
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