psarkissian

Not a 500, they don't have a tremolo bridge and the 500 bridge is a fixed on-the-deck bridge. The 600 has a lacquer back of the neck,... so it has to be a 300 Electric. Nice.

Saw the photos from the the support ticket from back in May, as the Support people consulted me about that. Trying to repair trace damage like won't last. And two IC's near that spot may be damaged as well, one of which, sorry to say, is an out of date IC no longer made or available.

Not if it's the 300 electric program board. Continuing on the posting in the early Variax topics.

All of my Line 6 gear plays nice with my third party gear.

No schematics available. Too much proprietary stuff in it.

No schematics available. Too much proprietary stuff in it. The way the strings are on a 500 Electric, the ends won't fall onto the circuit. That can happen with a JTV-69 though.

AES is the protocol. What they do with it,... even I don't have that info. Not something I typically deal with on those.

Use the tubes (valves) specified and matched sets, as specified in the post on tubes. Remember,... these are not all analog tube amps, so the digital and analog sides have to talk nice to each other.

Relay? Possible, but rare. Unequal topology is usually old tube (valve) elements wearing and pulling down voltage of signal path in the tube (valve) amp section. Also, be aware that topologies are not amplitude normalized between them, and that amp Class setting is also involved in how the gain loop topologies work. Schematics are not available due to intellectual property considerations, and we cannot vouch for the technical ability of others out there. Being high voltage tube amps, it is also a safety issue. I've been dealing with vacuum tubes and CRT's for 50+ years,... I still get zapped every now and then. It still hurts when that happens. So another reason we don't publish schematics. HD500 thru the Line 6 Link,... yes. I haven't tried that lately. As I recall, what comes out of the HD500 comes out of the L6 Link as well, fed by the same source path.

If the power amp board failed, then it will need to go to an authorized service center for a proper troubleshoot and repair.

It might be time to replace the power tubes (valves). When was the last time that was done?

If it isn't published in Line 6 literature, then it is not out there.

Log a support with them for those particulars. If It is related to the service bulletin, then it would be warranty. If it is something else, then it won't be. They would have to troubleshoot on their repair bench to determine that.

Use Firefox or Chrome. Also, if there's a problem with the headphone jack, like a short, it will put the output amp into "Mute" mode. Rare, but it can happen.

I was hoping that if it went to E&M in Milton Keynes, Bletchley, that it might come up as a warranty repair if a service bulletin was involved. Your serial suggests it might be,... might be, a possibility. It's why I was hoping they would evaluate it. That would not occur at a non authorized service.

:)

Used to be a couple between Homestead and Jupiter. One might have retired, he was older than me. hmmm,...

Yes, especially with the tube (valve) amps, as those are very high voltages. They tell me they have experience. I have 50+ years of it with tubes (Valves) and everything else, and I still slip and get zapped. It still hurts when I do that. Sending in just the head,... sometimes, depends on the problem. Something to work out with Support, us techs here and/or the authorized service center. And always get a return authorization (RMA) before sending it here. In some cases, servicing is a parts issue, as some parts are no longer available. Check the list for limited servicing in the Knowledge Base for that info.

"... to an inherent fault." - I don't think it's an inherent fault, but there are a couple things to go over with the service tech to check. "... people closer to me who can change components on any P.C.B. ... " - They won't have access to service info or me. Your serial number number suggests it's an amp from 2008 or 2009. spydox,... unfortunately not everyone out there is as tech as you or I. Too many have tried self repairs on their own and have had poor results. Then it ends up on bench and ends up taking more time and money to get the job done than it would to use an authorized tech. I see this all to too often. "... we really lack is proprietary service manuals which many companies offer to the public. " - there are still intellectual property considerations, and we don't know, nor can we vouch for the ability of others to know what they are doing, when it comes to self repair. I see failed attempts come across my repair bench all to too often. Trying to prevent that, so people can spend their time making music and rocking and rolling. Proprietary service manuals offered to the public is, by definition, no longer proprietary. And usually when they are no longer proprietary do they do that. Not everything in these products are hardware. A lot of it is programming.

Could be several things. It needs to be taken in and checked out by an authorized service tech. It will not be a self repair sort of thing you can do. They would need to do it. If they need to, they can consult me further about it through our technician email channel if they want. Where in the UK are you? Is there a Virgin Express train to Milton Keynes where you are at?

https://line6.com/find/service_center/ E & M Electronics Unit 28, 56 Goulds Close Bletchley Milton Keynes, MK1 1EQ +441908375699 line6@eandm.co Conor Farren<br/>c/o XMUSIC 1 Red Cow Retail Centre Ballymount, Dublin, D22 EA25 00353 833687775 conorfarren@hotmail.com

1-Double check your speaker cable. Make certain they are 8-Ohm speaker cable with 1/4" plugs and not guitar cables. 2-Make certain that the 8-Ohm speaker out is going to an 8-Ohm jack on the speaker or speaker cabinet. Last time this issue showed up in our lab, it was one of those two reasons which are a result of impedance mis-match.

Chime, layer2, toggle-1 is my goto for a Ricki 370-12. I'm the de facto Ricki nut at Line 6 when it comes to 4001 or 370-12. :) Shop the web site, there are B-Stock/ Re-furbs that have been across my bench and serviced before going on the site's shop. Looks a bit thin right now, try back there next week. I've sent some to the distribution hub recently. https://shop-us.line6.com/hardware/guitars/

Either loose cable or the LCD has failed. Either way, it needs to be looked at at a Line 6 authorized service center near you. https://line6.com/find/service_center/

1- Intellectual Property rights issues. They are very protective of that here. So I would not want to see anyone get in trouble over that. 2- Even if you could, the program IC would be blank, so the board would not do anything. And no, can't use Monkey for that. Monkey just load and updates models, does not have the core program. So Monkey would not be useful for that. Getting that program,.... well, see #1. 3- If such a guitar with this board in it were to come across my repair bench or bench of an authorized service center, it would be returned untouched, as a product with an unsupported modification. Mr Legler being in the EU, Full Compass won't do, maybe an equivalent supplier over there. Or as I mentioned before, get a used one to pull parts from, that has a good program board in it Hope you find it,... fröhliche Jagd.