psarkissian

It is a bit of a trick sliding the wrench in there with dinging the edge of the wood (also known as tool chatter). Takes a little practice.

19 to 19.7mm + 5mm for fret-board and fret, about 22mm total (fret-1 and fret-12).

Not really, just part of the hex wrench kit that comes with the guitars. ;)

Should just get a normal VDI cable, since it's designed just for that. CAT5 and CAT5e is normally for the FBV Floorboard connections, or for use interfacing to Monkey and Workbench HD. VDI cable is for playing thru. Don't go beyond 25ft as impedance starts to play a bigger role in performance beyond that length.

https://line6.com/find/service_center/ ... for the nearest service center in your area. Back of the head-stock,... "W", then the next two digits are the year date, the rest is the rest of the serial number.

It's a normal thing to be shielded. If it's not, then it's cheap garbage. Makes no difference and is a moot point, since CAT6 use with our product is the wrong cable to begin with.

https://line6.com/find/service_center/ ... to find official Line 6 service in your area.

4mm.

E&M Electronics in Milton Keynes, near Oxfordshire and Bletchley.

CAT6 is the wrong frequency data rate band width,... use CAT5 or CAT5e.

There can be some play, but that looks a bit more so than usual. It was probably done correctly, but they can loosen over time. Should be done by someone with experience servicing our product. Some of them have an E-Clip, some have a wire pin. If that wire pin breaks, it will create a bigger problem. The E-clip has to be the correct one, too big and it drops loose, too small you'll break it trying to install it. And the JTV-89 is no longer made.

What Martin said. And make sure your speaker is plugged into the correct speaker output for the impedance of the speakers you're using. Impedance mis-match can pull down voltages.

No. It's a very particular and specific set-up and format. 2GB and need to check the Knowledge Base notice set-up for FAT system formats.

Log a support ticket, needs to be service. Needs to go in for servicing and troubleshooted.

The short answer is no. You should use the specified capacity and format.

Make sure you speaker cable are not instrument cables.

Disconnect any USB hubs. Make sure Monkey and other Line 6 apps are closed. If that doesn't solve it, log a support ticket with Line 6, something deeper going on there.

I don't know what's in the pipeline, they don't tell any that sort of thing. They just give me stuff if it breaks, and I fix it.

Take it to an authorized service center in your area. Needs to be serviced by a service tech who knows the product. Do not attempt self repair, the shock hazard is too great. Leave it to the professionals.

You could check with the manufacturer. But the way jacks are wired and "normaled", it matters at the guitar end to power the electronics. TRS acts as a switch as well. Much like the input jack on our DL4 Delay Modeler product. I plug TRS from JTV to other devices (some of them dating back to the 1970's) without a problem, it's the way the jacks are normal. Certain standards that have been around since since the days of Alexander Graham Bell that are still used today, with a few today tweaks. Also check the manuals in the Support link here for info on connecting with the onboard battery or the XPS power wedge. Some good diagrams on how that works.

Lowering them as far as possible can be just as bad. It's a matter of the field strength, and where the null points are. 3-4 millimeters between E-strings and pole piece is sufficient. Remove them all, no. The circuitry wants to see something there.

Use a TRS adapter. Update mode engages different function than when in audio playing mode. And audio playing mode pulls current/voltage for different functions. In active guitar circuits since at least the mid 1970's, the configuration has been TRS: Tip= Signal, Ring= +V and Sleeve= ground/return. It's been something of a de-facto standard since then, and still the case today. Should be something in the manuals about that, and I constantly post on this here and on the Variax Facebook group. Sometimes gets lost in all the other posts.

Keep the remaining pick-ups at the correct distance from the strings to prevent the magnets from pulling on the strings and inducing warbling,... the piezos can amplify the effect, and it's even more so when using Alt Tune.

Electrical tape the open ends so they don't short to anything. You may have some differences in the sound when in magnetics mode, as the load on that line is changed, and toggles-1 and -2 have no bridge pick-up to go to. That will throw off the load in those two lines. Might try putting a 6.8k-Ohm resistor across there and wrap it in electrical tape so it doesn't short anything. Might be able to load match that line that way. And remember,.... Line 6 does not endorse or support modifications to its product. And that would void any warranties. If these mods you're doing fails, and you send the guitar to me for repair, the most I can do is to put it back to its factory default state. And that would be a non-warranty repair. I've service close to 1,700 of these (as of today), I want you to be aware of what you're are getting yourself into.

It came in for repair. The board was dead, component going to the VDI and the TRS were damaged or shorted from too much current pull, and the power management program in the battery box board was wiped. And he did it with inside the box, which made it worse. In programming or update mode using Monkey or Workbench HD, different circuitry is engaged, current draw is different, and so it's not a problem. TRS and VDI simultaneously,... don't do that.