PerS

Yes, it’s a shame that it’s been dumped. It can’t be a huge thing to move it from OK to great (for me it’s more of an integration thing to use the features in the PC from HX Edit, updated speaker emulation would be great but I’m OK). I got a slight hope when it turned up in Central, but after a knight sleep and hit by reality that passed… I like my 112+ but knower days I only run it as FRFR and occasionally run it in raw mode, as a guitar speaker (actually sound good, better than the speaker sim’s, in how I use it). And, as you, IR’s goes into my Helix. I had to much struggle to get the IR’s to load, as PC doesn’t convert IR’s in different formats as Helix does (another thing not been thought threw), at least I can’t get it to work. Also, the new speakers from 3.5 reduced the need for IR's drasticly... Hope you and your 212+ find each other again, can be a wonderful relationship :-) /Per

Hope I don’t misunderstand your question now… When Line6 made the integration Helix <> Powercab 112+ the thought was good but they forgot a few things … One of those things was to transfer the PC Edit functionality to HX Edit and make that integration seamless and visualized. IR is one of those half-done things… Your IR is visualized in HX Edit under the output block/Power cab tab. You need to pick “Mode”/”Use IR”, then a slider “User IR [1-2] (Preset)” will appear. What you now can see is the position number of the IR’s, not the names. The way to remember the IR names and position is to have a list on the side (paper, spread sheet), a screenshot from PC Edit or have PC Edit open at the same time. This way you can see where you IR is positioned and select the correct position number. Below is a screenshot to “visualize” what I tried to describe… //Per

Start with a disclaimer… :-) My system runs Swedish as default languish, so the English wording can be a little different… I also use Win10, so there might be differences if you run e.g. Win 11. The easy way - Open “Device Manager”/find your card to turn off power saving/find the energy tab/unclick option “Allow computer to turn off card to save power”. You can/should do this on all involved cards – USB-devices, Soundcards, LAN-card, WiFi-card etc. A better way – Click on windows start menu and find Setting. In the left menu click on Energy settings. In the box "Power Saving" pick the alternative to "Never allow power saving mode". On the right side menu (in blue), Related settings, click "More energy settings". You can do this to your needs… You have three options – "Balanced", "Power saving" or "High Performance". I made these choices “Balanced” and clicked on Change Power Scheme and made those changes: Turn screen off after 10 minutes (does not effect how the PC performs but saves the screen) and “allow computer to go into power saving – "Never". Now, click on Advanced Settings for some mor important choices Wireless Network, power saving – Setting “High Performance” I have my LAN-card disabled in BIOS, if you use yours there is probably a setting similar to this. I have also changed this: Power saving mode, after - Setting “Never” USB setup, optional disabling – “Inactivate” PCI Express, link status – “Off” The rest depends on your preferences. An alternative could be to pick Hi Performance Mode, did not suet me at the time… But one conclusion is that you don’t need to make any changes in registry.

Below you find a link to the updated cheat sheet, now updated with the nice stuff brought to us in the Line 6 firmware 3.80-update. I have used Ben Vesco's method to calculate the relative DSP values. Technical info in the pdf that was not published by Line 6 has been explored through available info from manufacturers, forums and other "reliable" sources. If you find something wrong/strange don't hesitate to let me know. Download the cheat sheet from my Dropbox (pdf-format) – https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/3ye2g1okvx18ypsww746w/Line6-Helix-Model-and-DSP-Summary-3.80.pdf?rlkey=8ygh0iqax8ewds0i3yn0nxc86&dl=0 Some of you have used my DSP calculation tool in Microsoft Excel. I have decided to put this tool on hold for now. The reason is that I found myself making the calculation I need from this pdf-document, quicker and more "on the fly". I had some other ideas to include too, but that will be later... Hope you find it useful. And Line6, I have left space for at least 30 more amps, cabs and effects in future updates... :-) /Per

Hi mtnman82 Thanks for the kind comment Yes, it will be updated. I upgraded my Helix LT today (no issues, done in less than 30 minutes including factory reset, restore backup and rebuild presets, so smooth…) and have added all the new stuff to my Excel template except the DSP’s, they will be tested and updated in the next days. Probably finished and published before this week is over. If the snowstorm hits us tomorrow, there is a warning issued, I might even have it ready tomorrow… :-). //Per

I used this tool a few times, https://anotherproducer.com/online-tools-for-musicians/delay-reverb-time-calculator/, handy tool. Add the BPM and you have the values for delays and reverbs. Under “tools” there are some more, eg. a metronome, BPM calculator etc. Some are available as Android apps but have no personal experience of those. //Per

Strange... but agree, sounds like it’s the PC+. I have the PC+ 112, but if I was facing the same problem, I would start by making a backup of the PC+ (config, presets and IR’s) and then do a factory reset. The backup Is a bit strange, in my opinion… (I think it’s only run backup of the configuration, not IR’s and Presets). Backup of config is done from Powercab Edit under the Load/Save tab pick “Save Preset”. Presets and IR is exported from respective tab by selecting the “Presets”/”IR’s” you like to save and hit “Export”. You choose the destination where I should land. A good idea is to take a screen shoot of the list or write down in which position presets/IR’s are placed, position number is not marked on the file and they are all exported individual. The “Factory Reset” is done on the PC+. Hit and hold the “House”-button. The display menu change and scroll down to “Factory reset”, think it’s the second from the bottom. All IR and Presets will be erased, and config will be set to factory default. In this state I would test the unit again and see if it back in order. You might have to reenter some of your config, like input gain again, but if it’s not a hardware failure it should come back up again. One more thing if above is not working try to reload the software (I presume you are on the latest version…), but I guess L6 will ask you to do this anyway… Hope it will help. Sorry for a long answer… tend to do that :-) //Per

Hi jubuttib Interesting, I can see the need… Lets see if we can find a way. I be honest from the start, there is not that much space left to add additional data/columns. One way could be to make a smaller font, but I think we are on the limit as is. A smaller font will make the document in this format hard to read. With that said, I must find a way to add more info as there is info that I would like to add too, and I would like to have a comment field… There will probably be a few more updates from Line6 with more interesting amps/cabs/effects. Some features would be nice to add, eg last update added some new L6 Original amps and they had integrated boost, that type of info would be interesting to have in the document. So, a few questions to get my head around the this I tried to import your table into Excel from included image. I can import it, but the “translation” is very poor. It looks like your info is in an Excel sheet, could you export the same info but as a pdf file (Not sure an Excel-file can be uploaded to the forum by security reasons, if it can that’s even better)? If I make a column for this, I probably need to combine the info into one column, like the DSP info, column “DSP (%, no cab)” that translate to the DSP in percent from preamp/ full amp without cab. Same for the Cab’s, Singel/Dual. The analogy then would be “Class/Top/Mode” e.g. “AB/1/Pen” or “A/2/Tri”… etc. Could that work? Is it OK if the HD500-info is not included in the document? A hypothetical question – I’m thinking of changing the format of this document from pdf to Excel (the “master” is already in Excel, it will only change the presentation and make it a bit more flexible…). I only made the pdf as Excel was not an option on my old Android Tablet, not a problem anymore. Would it be a disadvantage to get the Summery in Excel only? Disadvantage is you need Excel on your device or in the cloud. In my “master Excel” for the Helix Summery I actually have two more sheets, one for my Variax 500 that documents all the standard guitars and my own Custom settings and my Power Cab+ that list built in speaker simulations and mick’s for the XLR out. I will probably add a table to document what IR’s are loaded and in what position (separate document today)(as L6 forgot to supply that info, just the position..., together with some other info, in the integration to HxEdit, as they did with with your DT-info… :-). Maybe we could do a similar table for the DT info, think about it and let me know. To long reply... sorry //Per

Read somewhere that Powercab Plus 112 have those speakers Low fq – Eminence BETA 12CX 12" American Standard Series Speaker, https://eminence.com/products/beta_12cx#specifications Hi fq – Celestion CDX1-1010, https://celestion.com/product/cdx1-1010/ Manual state fq response to be 70-20 000 Hz. Have not seen where the crossover is but Celestion recommend above 2.2khz, 12dB/oct., and looking at the fq response of the Eminence I would guess around 4khz. If I understand RAW correct the fq response is determined by the Eminence speaker response solely, no Eq, meaning amsdenj guess is most likely very correct…:-) All speaker data in the links abow. //Per

Just to clarify my perhaps not entirely clear description :-) To make the reinstallation you need to set your Helix/Hx in update mode, this is the first check to see how severe the problem is. Check these options, https://helixhelp.com/tips-and-guides/universal/reset-options, depending on your device (turn power off -> hold down correct key combo and turn power back on). If your device can’t get into update mode I think you need to send it to a Line6 service center. If your device is stable in update mode, make the reinstallation by using the Updater software and after firmware reinstallation make a factory reset. Restart you devise and check if its stable in “normal operation”, eg. Add an amp and make some tweaks. If good preside. I made a note not to reinstall your backup. The reason for that is to verify that your unit doesn’t get any crap restored from the old configuration. If your firmware installation and tests worked, you can try to restore you backup and check that the unit still perform. Hope this made it "more clear”… //Per

Hi No, I don’t think midi over L6-Link is working and you can’t change presets that way. Only by an external midi cable. But you can do most of the things via HX Edit by selecting the output block in your preset, select the Powercab-tab below the path window. Under Mode (preset) select User IR. On the slides below you find one named User IR where you can select the IR of your choice. The IR’s are to be find by position number, no IR names are visible… You can also set hi and lo cut and ring color. In other words, most of the thing that you can set in a PC+ preset/Powercab Edit. But you can not select preset made in PC+. I used to have a separate list with IR names and the position number they were loaded in (also due to that PC+ is not as good as the Helix to auto convert IR's to the specific PC+ format and to many of my IR's were in wrong format). I given that up and only use IR in my Helix instead, when I need to. Nowadays I use the Helix cab’s, so good I don’t need more than a few IR’s. Most of the time run the PC+ as a Flat/FRFR. Sometimes I use it in Flat/LF Raw and no cab/IR in Helix, pretty nice Eminence speaker (Beta-12CX) in the PC+, worh to try. Not an exact answer to you question but… //Per

If you haven’t done it, try reinstalling the firmware. When you do so be sure your use a USB port that have power management of the USB-ports turned off. Preferable don’t turn your PC/Mac off at all do not use built in hub And don’t use an external hub (as Schmalle noted) and use a USB cable that you know works (preferably been used before to successfully upgrade your firmware). I would also suggest closing any application that is not needed during the update. After reinstallation reboot your Stomp and do a factory reset of your Stomp, but do not restore your backup. Test the Stomp and see if this might help (I guess that Line6 will ask you to do this if you open a ticket… you will be one step ahead :-). One additional thing, if there is a risk your Internet connection is shaky, make the upgrade locally from a downloaded firmware and do an MD5-checksum test before doing the upgrade, just to be sure the file is not corrupted. You will find the MD5 checksum on the download page after you accept the license agreement. The MD5 utility you will find on the download page and in the center box (- Choose software -) select MD5 Utility and in the third box select your operating system. Hope it’s one step forward… //Per

I add my 2 cent… Use FRFR/flat mode in 95 %, use L6-Link betwee nmy Helix LT och PC+. In this mode I use Helix stock cab (v3.70). Have a few IR’s but use those only because I’m lazy to retweak some presets that sound good. I don’t use IR’s in my PC+, get better control to handle the whole signal path in Helix and easier if using something else than PC+ as FRFR. In some cases I also run my PC+ in FRFR/ LF Raw and /LF Flat. In those cases, I exclude the speaker cab in the Helix preset. PC+ speaker is a good speaker, definitely worth trying, you may like it… Unfortunately, I have not had much luck with the speaker sims in PC+. One reason can be that I’m not that interested in “amp in the room”-sound any longer. One reason can be that nowadays I play mostly with backing tracks, and I prefer the “mic’ed feeling” of the sound. Haven’t heard Gary Moore live so it’s easier to get in the mode listening to a recording and be in the mix… :-) If you have not seen it, I recommend this thread - In above thread there amsdenj recommend the use of LF Raw-method I wrote about above (direct link to his post) - This thread has some more info around the subject (link to my post, but there is more to read) - Else, that's mentioned in previous posts. Hope I didn't add to much confusion to the table... :-) //Per

I don’t either think the washing machine is a good idea. To ruff on the sack... I don’t have the L6 Helix Gig bag but I frequently use my backpacks when going fishing and hiking. When my backpacks get dirty, I use the same detergent as for cleaning car seats, a spray to be used for fabric. Do this: If there is loose dirt/dust, vacuum the bag first. Spray a suitable area on the backpack and rub a little with a sponge (properly soaked with some spray) where there is stubborn dirt (a soft brush can also be handy). Try to prep the whole sack. Let it sit for a little while (not dry). Wipe off the prepped surface with sponge gently soaked in water. Repeat the treatment if it does not come clean. Let the backpack dry. Hope it works for you... //Per

Thanks brucepride Yes, agree. it’s easy to do that, so many combinations... I found this video, could be a method to audition amps and get starting point to find the basic tone (it’s an old video, but the methos is usable). That and to try a different cab. - And its quite funny… He is so tired of people saying that modelers can’t emulate real amps and he shows they can in such a simple way :-). Not the whole truth, but still a good demo that they can. And to get fine a starting point. Good lock on your journey, it’s fun one //Per

Yes you are, but I like it...

The reset you did should have taking care of this but in case it didn’t… As you connect via the input jacks you have the possibility to set the gain for the Input 1 and 2. You can check/control this on the menu on the PC+ or via PC Edit under the “system” tab in upper right corner, see attached pic (my Input 2 is used to connect my Variax direct via XPS box for acoustic. Added +12db to level it with my Helix LT, which I control via Helix/L6-Link according to what PaulTBaker describes). Try to turn down the Gain and see what happens. In special if it is set above 0 db. //Per Don't know why, but can't load the pic, link to my dropbox... https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/9c5u779n614ks9dsu3yog/L6-Power-Cab-Editor-System-P1.0-01.jpg?rlkey=hlo147uydup4qowah9eawgy4w&dl=0

I get the same result as klangmaler, can’t find that driver either. Tried to search for it in different combinations, no hit. rd2rk, Sure you don’t have a VIP or an early adapter account? :-) Is the fix only for Core Isolation-problems? I run Win10 and has no problem with that. //Per

Well, in the article you refer>> to it’s stated “Impedance-balanced TRS”. That means it’s not unbalanced, it’s “pseudo balance” technique used and behaves similar to and in most cases equivalent to a full balanced output. I don’t dare to explain it technical in case your needs depend on it… Here are two, one in depth and one “more balanced”. • https://www.soundonsound.com/sound-advice/q-how-impedance-balancing-audio-different-normal-balancing • https://faq.yamaha.com/sg/s/article/000021463 If you search for “impedance balanced vs balanced” you get a picture of how it works and check that to your use case. //Per

Hi This topic was "reopened" in December, might be a solution if you like to build things yourself... :-) The second solution will take care of the ground loop problem. But notice that it is built in a plastic box. If you build it in a metallic box you have to isolate the connectors from chassi, preferably on the relay side, from the ground. Or, use a three-pin connector (on the relay-side), eg a XLR, and ground will be on one of the pin's. Assumes one or two relay contacts can do the job. Slightly different depending on how the logic looks depending on the amplifier. May mean some form of supplementary logic is required in addition to the relay contacts. However, it is a good starting point to break the ground loop. Oh, and if you just need one switch you just build half of the schematic... :-) //Per

Hi Sorry if I misunderstand something here (not English native so translation and reference to so quotes may fail…) If your Win 7/Chrome PC is trying to autostart the Helix Firmware file that’s a PC problem. I don’t think an exchange of HX Stop unit will help you in this case. The problem starts already when you download the firmware. HX Stomp is not in the loop at that point. I guess your PC-problem also start the installation package when you download the Edit or the Updater software (witch by the way is included in the HX Edit package). Most likely with a warning that it’s a .exe-file. And that’s fine in most cases, if you know the source of the download. In this case, not so much. If you can’t turn off this “download auto start” I would propose this. Unplug your HX Stomp by removing the USB cable (just turning the Stomp off does not help). Uninstall the old HX Edit package, as you mentioned. After uninstalling reboot. Check that there are no software or drivers left under intalled applications/functions Line 6, if so uninstall them) (Those first bullits are to ensure that all remaining software/drivers is removed) Go to another PC that does not have this auto start download problem and download - The latest HX Edit package (3.70) for Windows 7 The latest firmware for HX Stomp (3.71) Copy those files to a USB Drive Copy those files to a suitable directory on your PC (i.g. your download directory) Install the HX Edit package and reboot your PC. Plug the USB cable back in. Now, follow the instructions by the letter in datacommando’s post above>>. Remember – Do not run HX Edit and HX Updater at the same time, close the one not in use. Otherwise, you lose this connection with your HX Stomp… Hope this can be of any help (and that I did not missunderstand your problem, if so I’m sorry..) //Per

Hi Here is the Factory Setlist 1 and 2. Download is from my dropbox in one zip-file per factory setlist, the zip's contains the the individual presetes (not the setlist backup). You can drag and drop the presets you whant to test into your prefered location in HX Edit. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/r6lc743kvcj6io401qnkn/L6-HX-Prests-Factory1.zip?rlkey=9506wbx9z0nzdvucafkb2x2qk&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ehww9fl7cz37d6yvlbbm5/L6-HX-Prests-Factory2.zip?rlkey=v2jrdhjbb3dhmxstdyrv54anx&dl=0 //Per

Hi If I understand you correctly you run acoustic sim on your Helix and use an electric guitar. I don’t but perhaps this can be useful anyway… Use the preamp section of the amps in some presets (acoustic preset with my Variax, acoustic Gibson and Dobro type of guitars). The preamps I use at this point are WhoWatt, Princess and Archetype Clean. Thay add some character to the tone, both for chords and soling, but I bet there is more pre’s that would work, like US Deluxe, Jazz Rivet etc, just try them. I will try the new amps and have some hope for Clarity, will see how that works. I have used the Kinky Boost and Studio Preamp in front for boost or added character. My signal chain is quite traditional, I think. Compressor in the first block, e.g. Deluxe Comp, LA Studio and even an Ampeg opto, some eq’ing and a little reverb. That will probably look different for you as going electric with sim, poly capo and electric guitar. But the preamps can be worth trying … //Per

Above are good choices, :-), but there is also a L6 Edit Pilots Guide 3.70 for your device. Lot of good stuff in there if you want details and to get the info from “the horse's mouth. https://line6.com/support/manuals/ //Per

Hi So, I have updated my cheat sheet (pdf-version) and for you who are interested just download it from the link below (from my Dropbox). All the new amp’s, cab’s and effects are in there, marked with a red “N”, incl DSP and some other additional info. Legacy devices are marked with a red “L”. All are sorted in order of appearance on the unit, in their respective group. DSP-values for the new products are from me, but I have used the same method as Ben Vesco has used, published, and described very well on his great site (unfortunately not updated). If anyone has found a value that differs from mine, please let me know. There is a slight difference depending on which blocks are used when trying out the numbers. I have used blocks from Ben’s “reference material” to minimize errors and to get continuity. I have used two different setups and if those have a variation bigger than 0,5 (in relative %) I have used a third setup. Think it’s hard to get any closer. “Last device” is always at least one volume pedal at the end, in mono (0,47%) and/or in stereo (0,61%), what’s ever slips in :-), so that would be the tolerance... All devices are in preamp/full amp (cab’s are not incl, presented separate, but as default cab’s incl DSP, are in the sheet with the amp’s), stereo/mono, single/dual etc. where applicable. In an earlier version I did also publish the cheat sheet in a MS Excel 365 format, a DSP calculator. I will make that update but need some more time to finish it (want to play some guitar too…). Download the cheat sheet from my Dropbox (pdf-format) – https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/8vsyuiehgd6ofjryw6g9q/Line6-Helix-Model-and-DSP-Summary-3-70.pdf?rlkey=k3yyscizqbi1z80ozmo6gsihi&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/3ye2g1okvx18ypsww746w/Line6-Helix-Model-and-DSP-Summary-3.80.pdf?rlkey=8ygh0iqax8ewds0i3yn0nxc86&dl=0 Great update Line6, very impressive work. Thought I had all I needed before this update, but was I wrong, there were a few more I didn’t know about, eg. the US Dripman (!), some of the Catalyst amp’s, 2203 and the ODR-1, wow :-) Have fun (I will…)! //Per