PerS

Hi Have you checked that your PC+ have the output set to instrument level. Sounds like your audio interfacd are set to receive that

Hi There was a thread earlier with similar problem. Anyway, they shpw how to open the cabinet. Kill warrenty though... . //Per

Hi I try to answer your question with the risc someone will correct me :-) What is best will come to what you are after and taist. I use Flat/FRFR and a few of the speakers in Speaker mode The difference - HF Off/Natural - You are then in speaker mode (amp in the room) and that setting turn off the the compassion/hf driver and give the built 12" speaker own character/sound. No speaker modulation and no eq. - Flat setting (FOH/studio mode) is the top level of FRFR, LF Flat and LF Raw. The first two are EQ'd to a flat range flat response with/without the compression driver. LF Raw is without compression driver and no EQ. I have not tested difference between HF Off/Natural and LF Raw. General in Speaker mode you use amp without cab or IR, that's done in the PC+. In Flat mode you need the speaker emulation as a cab or an IR in attached emulator or in the PC+. Hope I understood your question correct... /Per

Hi I made the update Friday evening and haven't had time test this as I hoped. My gear (LT and PC+ through L6-Link) works the same way as before the update, I did not lose the L6-Link. I have it set up with "Remote: Preset" and "Select (Preset): 1+2" (I never changed it, was default). After reading this post I made some more test this morning and checked the L6-Link parameters in HX Edit and it was as when I made the preset (checked about 5 of them in three different setlists) Upgraded as follows - Made a backup before I made any changes and another in the installations process (just in case...). The system rebuilt the presets and I made a factory reset and restored everything from the last backup (global, presets, IR...), full backup and restore (I did not restore the the factory presets, kept the new ones). After backup I rebooted the system and there was another rebuilt of patches in the setlists made by me. Hade no problems what so ever in the upgrade process and it passed my quick-test. Hope it can er of any helps to narrow things down. Let me know if you want me to test something. Good job... //Per

Wow, that was a masterpeace in troubleshooting. No wondering we feel safe to own Line6 gear with this knowledge, ability to cooperate and solve the most stranges behaviors in our gear in this forum. Hats off for this performance, so impressive... //Per

Hi Nice to hear it was of interest… I have actually tried to add the DSP-values but it did not work that well. The problem was that there is more then one DSP value on most items, e.g. mono/stereo on effects and pre-amp/amp/amp+cab on amplifiers. To get that to work the letters will be so small it will be hard to read, for me at least :-). An alternative I was looking into were to use just one "column" for the effects (for the amps I can do it with some tweak I think). Disadvantage are it will be at least three more pages... I actually downloaded the tables from Ben's site and had a micro that made look up to it (as i do to Titos83's impedance values). So it works but wasn't pretty. I also wanted Ben's "blessing" to copy his info into my sheet before I published it, but couldn't find contact info to him (I'm one of those oddies that don't use Facebook, to old or to grown up :-). Let me know it its OK with a few more pages, I'll try to make it work (I want it myself so it's of mutual interest). Also if there is ideas to enhance it in other ways. One thing I forgot to say - New amps/effects are labeled "NEW" (quit straight). Effects that is updated/modified with more options in this release have a "!"-sign attached to them. //Per

Hi Another great update from Line6, Helix firmware 3.10. So to you who like to have amps and effects in a condensed easy to read format... this is for you. So, made a new version of my cheat sheet, Line6 Helix Model Summary v3.10, for the ones who still like it on a printed sheet or as a file on your PC/MAC. All models up to firmware 3.10 are in there and appears in the same order as they do on the unite. There is a few parameters I do not yet have the info on, they are marked TBD (eg impedance of the Horizon Drive) and will be updated when I find the info (much appreciated if someone can provide me it to me). Please find attached file. Take care and have fun... //Per Line6 Helix-Model Summary, 3,10-01x.pdf

Hi Great job Line6. Just made the update from 3.01 to 3.1 and it went like a breeze... again. 33 minutes from start to finish, that includes the whole procedure and two rebuild of presets (first after upgrading the firmware and the second after restoring backup) that alone tok almost 15 minutes. Can't wait to dig in to the new stuff. Ratatouille Dist/RAT (will see if this one beet my homemade one:-), Dynamic Hall and Hot Springs has the potential to be favorites. Mandarin Rocker, no opinion but will test and see... Again, thanks Line6 for the update. //Per

Hi Here are instructions for all Helix units - https://helixhelp.com/tips-and-guides/universal/reset-options /Per

Hi It's the backup from Helix that is generated when running backup from HX Edit. In win10 I think the default map is a submap under Documents/Line6. I have changed that but if you click backup it will tell you where its trying to stor it. Make a search on internet to see if any other application use the same extension. //Per

Glad it whent well for you. Line6 has improved the update process a lot in the latest releases and now from 3.01 it will force you to upgrade Edit before upgrading to new firmware, we will se that when 3.1 arrives. Almost so simple that you may think something went wrong ;-). Interesting that HX Edit 3.01 made the upgrade 2.3 -> 2.8 -> 3.01 in the same run, that's cool. Take care...//Per

Haven't updated in steps as you described. Have updated to new version when it has been available. But see no reason not to be able to go from 2.30 to 3.01. It's stated in in release notes for both firmware and HX Edit that you can update from any previous version (or to quote from latest HX Edit release notes - "Doesn't matter what version of HX Edit you're currently running; you can go straight to 3.01."). Don't think the reason to a bricked Helix will be the upgrade itself. More likely a bad USB cable, not compatible USB-port, using a USB-hub, not following release note instructions... You do the upgrade from the latest HX Edit version. When doing the update, my routine is to - Make a backup of all patches, settings and IR's on installed version of HX Edit (just to be sure if you need to go back...). Uninstall excising version (to avoid remains from previous installation and in verst case get two installations...). Install the latest HX Edit and follow the instruction. Do not uncheck anything during installation just click next/finish (if un-checking eg the drivers all needed drivers will sometimes not install, has happened a few times). I guess this will be fixed from 3.01 as this version force to upgrade the HX Edit to latest version before you can upgrade your Helix and hopefully the procedure will be optimized. If you are unlucky to brick you Helix there are tons of help how to reset the Helix, go into update mode, load firmware from L6 Updater, what to look for if you lose connection etc. on this forum. Look for posts by Datacommondo, HonestOpinion, rd2rk and many more, they have helped a numerus of uses out of failed updates, bricked Helix's and lost connections between PC/MAC and Helix. //Per

The link to up-vote it - https://line6.ideascale.com/a/dtd/Powercab-Signal-LED-Level-indicator-to-show-up-in-PowerCab-Edit/1009166-23508. //Per

No, you add one more Tilt :-) /Per

Hi Go to https://line6.com/software/ you fine three dropdown boxes. Select your Powercab model/leave it/your os in eatch box. You find firmware, PC Edit and if you don't have Hx Edit installed you need Installer and drivers. //Per

I have added my vote on the link rd2rk supplied above, so you have two supporters now :-) Line6 place PC under AMPS, both on line6.com products and support so that should be good.

Hi Go to https://line6.com/software/ you fine three dropdown boxes. Select Helix/Hx Edit/Windows 10 respectivly. The download contain all you need - Edit, drivers etc. When installing, do not deselect anything. Just click OK. //Per

Hi I vote for it too. Have the same problem, have the PC+ behind me and don't see the LED at all if tilted with the "PC-tilt legs". I have placed the PC+ on a stand and have tilted just a little bit by lifting the front feet. That's enough to "hide" the LED. So an indicator in PC Edit would be welcome. Actually more important than the tuner in HX Edit as that tunder is right at your feet... Give us a link to your proposal and I vote for it.

Hi I agree with brue58ski on the recommendation. Have been at bedroom player for some years now and went for the Helix LT three years ago. Been a Line6 user since many years through POD (the bean), POD XT. POD HD Pro and now the LT. If money is not is the obstacle, then I can highly recommend the LT. It’s a platform to grow in when you want/need to. It has all sound, flexibility in the workflow, all important technical feature and a great user interface. I recommend it base on that and that you can focus on having fun and not run into limitations that you may on POD Go and Helix Stomp (absolutely no bad choices, there are videos on YT comparing those with Helix Floor and they do well). My decision 3 years ago, to go to Helix LT (from POD HD Pro), was above and that I was trigger of the next level of sound quality and the flexibility the platform gave me. I have all the tools I need, to stay simple or do something complex and what I need in that moment. Some reflection. Learning curve – There is a learning curve to be aware of. It’s a platform that take some work and time (true for all modelers in this league). There are tons with videos and documentation giving general info and info drilling down in specific areas. This great user forums with users that help you when/if you got stuck. Speakers – There is users here that are more skilled in this area then me, they will correct me :-). If you play home a par of studio monitors will probably do, Yamaha HS 7 and 8 seems like popular references (search the forum). I have a par of passive PA-speakers and a power amp as my “FRFR”-speakers the last 10-12 years. Have the power amp connected to a mixer that hooks my Helix LT a soundcard from my PC and other sources, so I easily can have my PC as my “band mates” :-) and to record. A month ago, I invested in a Powercab 112 Plus. My motive for that was that bedroom player also want to have fun :-). Support - I did not leave Line6 as a platform as I set a high value on support and this is probably the best in class in this industry. But, that you get regardless based on what brue58ski proposed. So, I will have my 2 cent and a long motivation to go for the Helix LT. Take care… //Per

Hi Go to https://line6.com/software/. In the dropdown fields select - Powercab 112 or 212, Powercab Edit and your os eg. win10/mac Should do the trick //Per

Hi Thanks so much for reply and maybe ha hint of where to fund a solution @datacommando. I appreciate your feedback and seen your earlier around those subjects and if I didn’t know you were a Mac user, I could have bet you were a PC user :-). Made a quick check and the first link is what I have done, I had disabled suspending of USB. I have also in principle suspended all what power management can turn off under Power Options. I have made some of the steps under the second link too, but there are some parts I will dig into. There was also some interesting links on this page to more info. On this thread, I started to try digging into some of those problems. My bad lock was I got a 6 meter USB 2.0 cable. That was how I found that power setting on the USB-port had changed, pure luck… Thanks for your feedback //Per

Hi This question is perhaps for @datacommando, or anyone who have a clue. Have had some USB-issues for a while, but the main problem is solved. Replaced the cable, PC <-> Helix, that was out of spec did the trick... I looked at the video that @datacommando published, thanks for publishing that by the way. First thought was “I already done this…”. But yesterday when I made some more investigations of my PC, I thought I make a check anyway and all found USB-ports had power management activated/selected. I know I both inactivated all power control both in Power Management setting and checked it in Device Manager during the optimization on my PC a few month ago (this PC was built in September, brand new). My network card had the power management disabled, made that at the same time. I went to the Power Management setup and the USB power management settings was activated… and this was deactivated not only for the USB-ports but all energy saving was inactivated. So, all settings in Power Management looked like they were back to default/basic scheme. So my question – Has anyone seen this happened? If so, what triggered it? An update (eg a large one like 20H2). Another configuration change that triggered enabling of power management? Operation/user error? I don’t say that I’m not the root cause... very possible, but don’t know what I can have done. Any clues? (gentle with me, I'm very sensitive:-) //Per

Hi A short feedback on my tests with my new 5-meter cable. I have now for three days tried out my new USB-cable. Cable is marked USB revision 2.0, 26AWG/1P and 22AWG/2C, so obvious USB 2.0 specifications and the individual cords are a bit “chunkier”/thicker (sorry, English is not my native…) then my 3-meter cable. It also has ferrite cores on each end. My motive to pick this cable was based on part what axeel_b described and parts I found looking at the standard and some design rules. I have assumed that Line6 has built the USB communication according to the USB 2.0 standard and with that in mind set my focus on cable quality/how its built, drivers and PC configuration. So, I have pushed my PC to handle many USB-streams (tried to use all used USB-ports, mainly Helix and soundcard, but also mouse and keyboard) and many applications (running video incl sound, loaded other applications like Office 365, Chrome etc.) at the same time. Including tests I made in the video published earlier in this post, eg backup. At no time did I have any interruption, BSOD or any trouble to do what I “needed”. Helix/HX Edit did not interrupt once. Backup that had 100% fail on the 6 meter cable hade 100% success on every attempt to run backup or operate my Helix on the new 5 meter cable. I have a few more things to look over to “secure” a stable operation, will be back with my findings in more detail. //Per

Found this in another thread. Wonder if this can be another part of the lose connection puzzle? The later comment in the last post above added some comment that Line6 uses the latest version of “libusb” (in the original post that was an assumption that they didn’t). It worked when johnny-longtorso manually installed the library but not as Line6 driver package. One thought he have is that multiple drivers could be installed on the PC (could also explain why I haven’t seen this as I uninstall and clean remains from the old installation, have only hade the cable issue and what I filed a ticket on – BSOD when turning of my PC and haven’t closed HX Edit), but no clue why it didn’t work on the MAC. Could be a long shot, but what isn’t until there is a answer… //Per

Hi axeel_b I think this is great news. Troubleshooting at this level means both finding clues and eliminating things that have nothing to do with it. So, instead see this that we may have another clue to solve the problem. You never know even rd2rk may appreciate the findings on day when the backup doesn't work :-). Like I said before, do not think this is one problem causing this. But it can also actually be the case that the same problem cause different symptoms on different machines (endless with combinations of how a PC can be configured in hw/sw). My PC was built about 5 months ago. MB is an Asus Z490-A, processor Intel Core i5 10600K 4.1 GHz and the power supply is a Seasonic FOCUS PX 550W. Hope this has enough power to drive my USB-ports. I ordered a new USB-cable today (would have bought it in town but reread your post and saw what you said about ferrite cores on the cable). I bought a 5-meter USB cable (I know, not 1-meter...), AWG 22/26 (ie a little thicker signal path, the one I have which is 3-meters and works has AWG 22/28) and ferrite cores at both ends (and the price was $ 18 incl shipping ;-). If my MB might have enough power capacity, then maybe it can work. Actually, do not know what to do otherwise... Regardless, I, and think I speak for more users than me, appreciate your knowledge and all the work you put into this to find a solution to a very annoying problem. Many thanks for doing that... I report back in my findings with my new cable, will get it tomorrow evening. //Per