PerS

Hi Nice to hear it was of interest… I have actually tried to add the DSP-values but it did not work that well. The problem was that there is more then one DSP value on most items, e.g. mono/stereo on effects and pre-amp/amp/amp+cab on amplifiers. To get that to work the letters will be so small it will be hard to read, for me at least :-). An alternative I was looking into were to use just one "column" for the effects (for the amps I can do it with some tweak I think). Disadvantage are it will be at least three more pages... I actually downloaded the tables from Ben's site and had a micro that made look up to it (as i do to Titos83's impedance values). So it works but wasn't pretty. I also wanted Ben's "blessing" to copy his info into my sheet before I published it, but couldn't find contact info to him (I'm one of those oddies that don't use Facebook, to old or to grown up :-). Let me know it its OK with a few more pages, I'll try to make it work (I want it myself so it's of mutual interest). Also if there is ideas to enhance it in other ways. One thing I forgot to say - New amps/effects are labeled "NEW" (quit straight). Effects that is updated/modified with more options in this release have a "!"-sign attached to them. //Per

Hi Another great update from Line6, Helix firmware 3.10. So to you who like to have amps and effects in a condensed easy to read format... this is for you. So, made a new version of my cheat sheet, Line6 Helix Model Summary v3.10, for the ones who still like it on a printed sheet or as a file on your PC/MAC. All models up to firmware 3.10 are in there and appears in the same order as they do on the unite. There is a few parameters I do not yet have the info on, they are marked TBD (eg impedance of the Horizon Drive) and will be updated when I find the info (much appreciated if someone can provide me it to me). Please find attached file. Take care and have fun... //Per Line6 Helix-Model Summary, 3,10-01x.pdf

Hi Great job Line6. Just made the update from 3.01 to 3.1 and it went like a breeze... again. 33 minutes from start to finish, that includes the whole procedure and two rebuild of presets (first after upgrading the firmware and the second after restoring backup) that alone tok almost 15 minutes. Can't wait to dig in to the new stuff. Ratatouille Dist/RAT (will see if this one beet my homemade one:-), Dynamic Hall and Hot Springs has the potential to be favorites. Mandarin Rocker, no opinion but will test and see... Again, thanks Line6 for the update. //Per

Hi Here are instructions for all Helix units - https://helixhelp.com/tips-and-guides/universal/reset-options /Per

Hi It's the backup from Helix that is generated when running backup from HX Edit. In win10 I think the default map is a submap under Documents/Line6. I have changed that but if you click backup it will tell you where its trying to stor it. Make a search on internet to see if any other application use the same extension. //Per

Glad it whent well for you. Line6 has improved the update process a lot in the latest releases and now from 3.01 it will force you to upgrade Edit before upgrading to new firmware, we will se that when 3.1 arrives. Almost so simple that you may think something went wrong ;-). Interesting that HX Edit 3.01 made the upgrade 2.3 -> 2.8 -> 3.01 in the same run, that's cool. Take care...//Per

Haven't updated in steps as you described. Have updated to new version when it has been available. But see no reason not to be able to go from 2.30 to 3.01. It's stated in in release notes for both firmware and HX Edit that you can update from any previous version (or to quote from latest HX Edit release notes - "Doesn't matter what version of HX Edit you're currently running; you can go straight to 3.01."). Don't think the reason to a bricked Helix will be the upgrade itself. More likely a bad USB cable, not compatible USB-port, using a USB-hub, not following release note instructions... You do the upgrade from the latest HX Edit version. When doing the update, my routine is to - Make a backup of all patches, settings and IR's on installed version of HX Edit (just to be sure if you need to go back...). Uninstall excising version (to avoid remains from previous installation and in verst case get two installations...). Install the latest HX Edit and follow the instruction. Do not uncheck anything during installation just click next/finish (if un-checking eg the drivers all needed drivers will sometimes not install, has happened a few times). I guess this will be fixed from 3.01 as this version force to upgrade the HX Edit to latest version before you can upgrade your Helix and hopefully the procedure will be optimized. If you are unlucky to brick you Helix there are tons of help how to reset the Helix, go into update mode, load firmware from L6 Updater, what to look for if you lose connection etc. on this forum. Look for posts by Datacommondo, HonestOpinion, rd2rk and many more, they have helped a numerus of uses out of failed updates, bricked Helix's and lost connections between PC/MAC and Helix. //Per

The link to up-vote it - https://line6.ideascale.com/a/dtd/Powercab-Signal-LED-Level-indicator-to-show-up-in-PowerCab-Edit/1009166-23508. //Per

No, you add one more Tilt :-) /Per

Hi Go to https://line6.com/software/ you fine three dropdown boxes. Select your Powercab model/leave it/your os in eatch box. You find firmware, PC Edit and if you don't have Hx Edit installed you need Installer and drivers. //Per

I have added my vote on the link rd2rk supplied above, so you have two supporters now :-) Line6 place PC under AMPS, both on line6.com products and support so that should be good.

Hi Go to https://line6.com/software/ you fine three dropdown boxes. Select Helix/Hx Edit/Windows 10 respectivly. The download contain all you need - Edit, drivers etc. When installing, do not deselect anything. Just click OK. //Per

Hi I vote for it too. Have the same problem, have the PC+ behind me and don't see the LED at all if tilted with the "PC-tilt legs". I have placed the PC+ on a stand and have tilted just a little bit by lifting the front feet. That's enough to "hide" the LED. So an indicator in PC Edit would be welcome. Actually more important than the tuner in HX Edit as that tunder is right at your feet... Give us a link to your proposal and I vote for it.

Hi I agree with brue58ski on the recommendation. Have been at bedroom player for some years now and went for the Helix LT three years ago. Been a Line6 user since many years through POD (the bean), POD XT. POD HD Pro and now the LT. If money is not is the obstacle, then I can highly recommend the LT. It’s a platform to grow in when you want/need to. It has all sound, flexibility in the workflow, all important technical feature and a great user interface. I recommend it base on that and that you can focus on having fun and not run into limitations that you may on POD Go and Helix Stomp (absolutely no bad choices, there are videos on YT comparing those with Helix Floor and they do well). My decision 3 years ago, to go to Helix LT (from POD HD Pro), was above and that I was trigger of the next level of sound quality and the flexibility the platform gave me. I have all the tools I need, to stay simple or do something complex and what I need in that moment. Some reflection. Learning curve – There is a learning curve to be aware of. It’s a platform that take some work and time (true for all modelers in this league). There are tons with videos and documentation giving general info and info drilling down in specific areas. This great user forums with users that help you when/if you got stuck. Speakers – There is users here that are more skilled in this area then me, they will correct me :-). If you play home a par of studio monitors will probably do, Yamaha HS 7 and 8 seems like popular references (search the forum). I have a par of passive PA-speakers and a power amp as my “FRFR”-speakers the last 10-12 years. Have the power amp connected to a mixer that hooks my Helix LT a soundcard from my PC and other sources, so I easily can have my PC as my “band mates” :-) and to record. A month ago, I invested in a Powercab 112 Plus. My motive for that was that bedroom player also want to have fun :-). Support - I did not leave Line6 as a platform as I set a high value on support and this is probably the best in class in this industry. But, that you get regardless based on what brue58ski proposed. So, I will have my 2 cent and a long motivation to go for the Helix LT. Take care… //Per

Hi Go to https://line6.com/software/. In the dropdown fields select - Powercab 112 or 212, Powercab Edit and your os eg. win10/mac Should do the trick //Per

Hi Thanks so much for reply and maybe ha hint of where to fund a solution @datacommando. I appreciate your feedback and seen your earlier around those subjects and if I didn’t know you were a Mac user, I could have bet you were a PC user :-). Made a quick check and the first link is what I have done, I had disabled suspending of USB. I have also in principle suspended all what power management can turn off under Power Options. I have made some of the steps under the second link too, but there are some parts I will dig into. There was also some interesting links on this page to more info. On this thread, I started to try digging into some of those problems. My bad lock was I got a 6 meter USB 2.0 cable. That was how I found that power setting on the USB-port had changed, pure luck… Thanks for your feedback //Per

Hi This question is perhaps for @datacommando, or anyone who have a clue. Have had some USB-issues for a while, but the main problem is solved. Replaced the cable, PC <-> Helix, that was out of spec did the trick... I looked at the video that @datacommando published, thanks for publishing that by the way. First thought was “I already done this…”. But yesterday when I made some more investigations of my PC, I thought I make a check anyway and all found USB-ports had power management activated/selected. I know I both inactivated all power control both in Power Management setting and checked it in Device Manager during the optimization on my PC a few month ago (this PC was built in September, brand new). My network card had the power management disabled, made that at the same time. I went to the Power Management setup and the USB power management settings was activated… and this was deactivated not only for the USB-ports but all energy saving was inactivated. So, all settings in Power Management looked like they were back to default/basic scheme. So my question – Has anyone seen this happened? If so, what triggered it? An update (eg a large one like 20H2). Another configuration change that triggered enabling of power management? Operation/user error? I don’t say that I’m not the root cause... very possible, but don’t know what I can have done. Any clues? (gentle with me, I'm very sensitive:-) //Per

Hi A short feedback on my tests with my new 5-meter cable. I have now for three days tried out my new USB-cable. Cable is marked USB revision 2.0, 26AWG/1P and 22AWG/2C, so obvious USB 2.0 specifications and the individual cords are a bit “chunkier”/thicker (sorry, English is not my native…) then my 3-meter cable. It also has ferrite cores on each end. My motive to pick this cable was based on part what axeel_b described and parts I found looking at the standard and some design rules. I have assumed that Line6 has built the USB communication according to the USB 2.0 standard and with that in mind set my focus on cable quality/how its built, drivers and PC configuration. So, I have pushed my PC to handle many USB-streams (tried to use all used USB-ports, mainly Helix and soundcard, but also mouse and keyboard) and many applications (running video incl sound, loaded other applications like Office 365, Chrome etc.) at the same time. Including tests I made in the video published earlier in this post, eg backup. At no time did I have any interruption, BSOD or any trouble to do what I “needed”. Helix/HX Edit did not interrupt once. Backup that had 100% fail on the 6 meter cable hade 100% success on every attempt to run backup or operate my Helix on the new 5 meter cable. I have a few more things to look over to “secure” a stable operation, will be back with my findings in more detail. //Per

Found this in another thread. Wonder if this can be another part of the lose connection puzzle? The later comment in the last post above added some comment that Line6 uses the latest version of “libusb” (in the original post that was an assumption that they didn’t). It worked when johnny-longtorso manually installed the library but not as Line6 driver package. One thought he have is that multiple drivers could be installed on the PC (could also explain why I haven’t seen this as I uninstall and clean remains from the old installation, have only hade the cable issue and what I filed a ticket on – BSOD when turning of my PC and haven’t closed HX Edit), but no clue why it didn’t work on the MAC. Could be a long shot, but what isn’t until there is a answer… //Per

Hi axeel_b I think this is great news. Troubleshooting at this level means both finding clues and eliminating things that have nothing to do with it. So, instead see this that we may have another clue to solve the problem. You never know even rd2rk may appreciate the findings on day when the backup doesn't work :-). Like I said before, do not think this is one problem causing this. But it can also actually be the case that the same problem cause different symptoms on different machines (endless with combinations of how a PC can be configured in hw/sw). My PC was built about 5 months ago. MB is an Asus Z490-A, processor Intel Core i5 10600K 4.1 GHz and the power supply is a Seasonic FOCUS PX 550W. Hope this has enough power to drive my USB-ports. I ordered a new USB-cable today (would have bought it in town but reread your post and saw what you said about ferrite cores on the cable). I bought a 5-meter USB cable (I know, not 1-meter...), AWG 22/26 (ie a little thicker signal path, the one I have which is 3-meters and works has AWG 22/28) and ferrite cores at both ends (and the price was $ 18 incl shipping ;-). If my MB might have enough power capacity, then maybe it can work. Actually, do not know what to do otherwise... Regardless, I, and think I speak for more users than me, appreciate your knowledge and all the work you put into this to find a solution to a very annoying problem. Many thanks for doing that... I report back in my findings with my new cable, will get it tomorrow evening. //Per

Hi rd2rk 30 minutes ago i find out that the delivery of my 5 mtr cable was a 6 mtr cable and for about third of the price. So a $18 cable was a $7 no spec cable. If I order the wrong one or if they delivered another I will try to find out. Anyway, the cable is a peace of crap and do exactly what i recorded on the video. And it failed again this afternoon when I was playing. The sentence is, a cable of bad quality cable will give trouble, cheap or expensive. My 3 meter that works is not a $600 cable from Magnolia Hi-fi snobs department. It came from a lokal store and if I remember correct I paid about $12 for it. I had to exchange the cable that came with my Helix three years ago, I constantly lost connection. Tomorrow I will go to the same store and by a 5 meter one of the same brand as my 3 meter. If it's to long for this application will show later. If it works I will change the one to my PC+ too. If you have trouble find a dealer, I can see if I can find one selling $600 cables for you. If you want 10 they can probably make a special order for you for just a little extra. But, I don't think you need that expensive cables, just the right quality. Something like what axeel_b described. //Per

Hi all and hope transition from 2020 to 2021 went well I will give you my comment on this and I think you are on to one part of the problem around USB problem. I think cable length matters and the quality of the cable. Probably also the behavior of the USB-port. Most likely hub or no hub. But it is a lot of other dependencies… I have had some USB-related problems from beginning of 2020. Have reported this to Line6 and also in the helix bug report in this forum, here - Don’t know if this is related to the same findings you have axeel_b, but during the investigation and testing I found some interesting behavior close to what you describe, and I got it on tape… I made some optimization of my rigg during the Christmas holidays, I added a Powercab Plus 112 and had to rearrange my studio corner including my earlier 3 meter/10 feet USB cables had to be exchanged for 5 meter/17 feet ones. All vent well and worked perfectly. I got a suggestion from Line 6 Support (they are so good). I went through the suggestions and thought they nailed the problem. Sorry to say but the day after I hade the same problem as described on the link above. Have upgraded the ticket with my findings and changes I made on my way to narrow down the problem. During some more troubleshooting I find what’s on the tape, link below. The recording shows four things: First part a test run that went normal. I start up my system, starts HX Edit and run a backup. This is done with the 3 meter cable. All running normal. Second part I do the same thing but this time with the 5 meter cable. I run the backup and all goes well until it reach backup of the presets, then it fails. And this was what I found a few days ago, the length/cable quality do matters. I can repeat this over and over. The recording is done on the first take (even if the camera stop and I had to restart it…) and by some reason it lose the connection at the same point, always when it comes to back up presets. Third and fourth part shows when running a set list backup. Again it fails when backing up presets. I tested this before and it did not matter what preset list I picked (in case on preset are causing it...). This time I only did it on one set list. What also happened this time, in the end of the recording, it got my PC to freeze… that has never happened before. Nothing else was running, hade to reboot the PC. One sequence I also show that my 5 meter cable work perfect when using the HX Edit to changing presets, changing amps etc. During backup it fails coming to presets. The recording is to be found here (probably the most boring 6 minutes on Internet) - https://www.dropbox.com/s/x0l8t8yj2sve9cl/HX%2C USB BU failed.mp4?dl=0 So my conclusion is that the cable is important (quality and length). I have never used a 1 meter cable as my PC has not been close enough, but 2 and 3 meter frequently. I have had problems with some of those cables and shifted them out. I have had problems with USB-ports but always found one that worked. My brand new 5 meter USB cable does work except during backup of presets. My 3 meter cable works perfectly. When I got the PC+ I also ordered the 5 meter USB cables, one for HX and one for the PC+ (if price matters, they were not the cheapest... I check whats written in the cable and make an update). I have not seen any problems on the PC+ related to USB-communication. I will be most interested to see where this is going. At his point I think the USB/cable-problem is just one part in this story (me saying that referring to my first link and what I see in different forums). The PC itself is a challenge itself due to all hw/sw combinations and configurations and depending how it is maintained (or not) by the user. Not an easy task to solve… //Per

Hi Phil Yes, it’s strange. And to be honest, not sure if it’s a Win10-problem or drivers. I have two completely different PC’s and the new one is really slimed, nothing extra on it then basic apps (Office 365, two DAW’s some performance utilities). I can add that if I start HX Edit before my Helix there is no problem, it says – “No device connected” and connect after turning on the Helix. It only crashes when turning off. I have hade my LT a bit more then 3 years and it is just a piece of joy. Those problems started about a year ago, on my old PC. I can only speculate what started it. I suspect a Microsoft update/upgrade could be one cause. One of those gave me problem with my Focusrite and some other apps too. I hade to reinstall drivers for the LT and Focusrite. Focusrite released a new driver a bit later and since then I have not hade any problem with that. I know that Logitech G-hub was involved, that I found pretty quick. I know that during this time I could get BSDO both on tuning on and off the Helix LT. Main problem causing this was the G-hub. Since May the only problem left on the old PC was this problem when turning off the LT when HX Edit was running. I hoped it was some kind of hw related problem, but it was the same on the new PC. My old PC was 8 years, but still running well. I decided to build a new as it started to get old, no updates of bios and drivers, some performance issues etc. This was a Win7 from the start and upgraded to Win10 when it was released. Almost sure I reinstalled Win10 short after due to instability, no problems after that. Can admit I have tested some apps on it, but I have kept it in good slim shape all the time and as said earlier not one Line6 update has failed for me, not on Helix, not on Pod HD Pro and not on PodXT (last one on an even older PC :-). The problems I hade has bin related to a broken SSD-drive and the problems I described above. As stated before – Its no problem for me really as long as I close HX Edit before shutting down Helix, annoying though. So, hoping for a fix off cause. Question though is if this problem can be related to what other users relate to problems in updates, Edit losing or can’t find Helix etc. I have not had those problems, on my PC or on PC I have helped friends to install Helix and Stomp. PC comes in many configurations and different conditions… and behaves different. Anyway, at this point I don’t know what to test so I see what Line6 come back with. Let you know //Per

Hi Writing this as information about BSOD involving Helix and Hx Edit. After have hade a whole bunch if problems on my old PC, that I solved, built a new one on which one problem persist, BSOD when turning my Helix LT off. Future will tell if I’m right or wrong… Short story – In >95% of the cases when I turn my Helix LT off and have HX Edit running I get a BSOD. If I close HX Edit before I turn the Helix LT off, never a problem. Most often with different error codes. My conclusion – If HX Edit is running and has an established connection to the Helix LT my PC crash/BSOD, most likely due to HX Edit losing connection to the Helix LT. I guess the drivers and/or the HX Edit causes conflicts resulting in the BSOD. The BSOD happens sometimes immediately when turning the Helix LT on and sometimes it can take a few seconds. But it happens… In September I build myself a new PC with a gen 10 processor and all hw new. Running Win 10 (latest version and updated drivers for motherboard), 16 GB RAM, M2 C:\-OS disk and separate SSD-disks for storage and recording. Optimized for audio/sound recording and do not use it for gaming. So, no G-hub, no mouse or keyboard drivers (HID) etc. Some connected devices using dedicated USB-ports, eg my Helix LT, Focusrite 18i6 (with drivers from September 2020) and from yesterday also my PC+ 112. Connected via USB are also mouse (wireless), keyboard, a USB-hub in the screen, all connected to one USB-port with one hub. On my old PC (gen 3 processor running Win10) I had some other problems too, some causing BSOD and some causing freezing/extremely slow, eg G-hub driver problem, Microsoft updates screwing up my soundcard and some other applications, Focusrite drivers that had problems even causing BSOD etc. Those problems I solved, but the BSOD with HX Edit are the same on both the new and the old PC, this I can’t find another explanation than what I wrote above. There is on more common point that I can’t prove not being involved, the graphic card (NVIDIA). Different cards but the same driver platform (GeForce Experience). Have no graphic issues, but you never know. As long as I remember to turn off HX Edit I have no real problem with this issue. I can wait for a bug fix and hope this can be a part of finding a solution. So why do I bring this up? Haven’t seen this described before and I think this can be one of problems generating BSOD for some or other interruptions eg during sw-updates. Well, other things can cause that too, like not reading instructions/manuals, PC not in shape, USB cables, USB-hubs, bad USB-ports etc. But this happens to me on two completely different hardware platforms (and I do read manuals and instructions :-). That’s more than a coincidence and has the potential to even cause other problems, other than the one I have seen. One thing I can’t explain is that I never have had a problem to run an update, have never ever had a failed update. I would expect a failure eg. when there is a reboot involved… but never. My best guess is that the Helix LT doesn’t lose power during reboot, so the drivers are still “active/not released” on my PC. But this maybe be different on different PC’s. So, my speculations in a nutshell... I have opened a ticket on this and reported my conclusions/findings to Line6. And now document it on the support forum hoping it can helps to save someone from a BSOD :-). If you have any ideas on this I gladly take your feedback. Thanks for reading this dreadful long post and wish you a continued Merry Christmas. Take care… //Per

You can keep it, it's 8 per preset and 64 parameter per snap. That time 127 preset per bank, time 6 banks Happy Christmas //Per