PerS

Hi I think we talk about two different things here, at list it's for me. I use my ears to dial in a great tone. I use the meter to not be surprised when changing patch, change snapshot, engage a stomp, switch guitar etc. Well I can see a few things more, but I’m recognize a good tone when I hear one. Not by relying on a meter, just to get a little help on the way there. I get that with or without the meter, but its a good tool on the journey. If you don't need it/whant to use it, just don't. As all feature in the Helix, they are free to use. And, The Helix is the best investment I done music instrument wise. Looking forward to be able to use it more next year. And its only 50 minuts to next year :-) //Per

Hi Just as a post in the debate about level indicator in Helix – Conclusion is that there is none yet and we don’t know when/if it will come or how it will work. Also, that different people have different needs. And as in my case, I'm much less experienced then many of you are. What I noticed was that depending on how my ears/brain perceived different sounds, depending on my daily shape, made my patches spread a lot both in level and tone. So, to adjust my patches so they ended up at about same level I have used a LUFS meter. Just to have a starting point and to see that my levels do not climb above, peaks less then -7db and get a LUFS-reading at about -18db. This will also be the level I return to and listen to if I make tonal changes that change the overall levels. Same goes for pedals to avoid jumps in level when on/off. I do final finish at home at a much higher volume, usually end up about right, but sometimes have to fine tune the levels after tonal changes. Again, the ears are important but handy to have something as a reference , to be in the ballpark. A little faster and a little easier, get more focus on the tone. Think it has been in topics before, but here are two videos from Jason Sadites that I think sums it up pretty well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HE3IBSfc62Y https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zeje2AR54Sw I use a LUF meter from Youlean which is free (available in a more advanced version for a small amount of money) and can be used standalone (no need but can be used in a DAW) and connects my PC via USB to Helix. Here is a link: https://youlean.co/youlean-loudness-meter/ Another one that seems popular is the Orban loudness meter https://www.orban.com/freeorbanloudnessmeter. Also, convenient to have both Youlean and Edit next to each other. So easy to keep everything in level, turning on/off objects in the signal chain and to know its under control. Slipt in a screenshot below. Take opportunity to wish you all a Happy New Year and thank you for all good info you supply into this forum... and, maybe hope for at least a input clip indicator :-) //Per

The update went like a breeze, again ... even though I run Win 10 ;-)) //Per

Hi I successfully updated my Helix LT to 2.81 today. Took less than 30 minutes (actually don't know as I had coffee and ice-cream outside in the sun and it was ready when I came back). I made the 2.80-upgrade when it came out, also that went without any problems. And, this has been my experience from my start with Line6-products starting 1998 with the POD (upgraded to 2.0 but that was a eprom-change :-) via POD XT and a POD HD Pro. Also have a Variax 500 (2003) that I still own and use. Never had a problem except a hardware problem on my POD HD, solved quickly by Line6 and their support. Never a software or update problem, feel lucky there. Thanks Line 6 for a grate work and another great update – Fullerton, Grammatico, Revv, KOT/POT and Dhyana Drive are all favorites now. So are Tilt and Shelf… Also, the hat off for everyone in this forum and at TGP who spend so much time helping to solve problems for those in trouble, with an endless patience. During all years I have been here I have seen an endless amount of knowledge pass through. An invaluable support that built my own knowledge and also proactively prevented me from running into problems, simply gave me more time to play music ... say this partly because you who put down this time should feel that there is a deep gratitude for your work. This update has been a challenge for quite a variety of reasons and makes this forum important. It also says that those who are looking for support here should not take it for granted, most show their respect/appreciation, but unfortunately there are those who either listen or show traces of gratitude for having access to this benefit... Thanks you all for helping us out when we need it. Hope the message goes through correct, English is not my native language, and don’t want to start a war :-) //Per

Rd2rk, found a bug in your code. Looking forward to an update IF you found 2.80 and 2.81 not meet your demand THEN revert to 2.71 OR go on vacation :-) /Per

Hi Got to my attention that I have two "buggs" in my Cheat Sheet... That is now corrected (swopt PoT and KoT and wrong description of the Script Phaser). You find the updated version, v02, here - https://www.dropbox.com/s/d6jyu6p3148nz5y/Line6 Helix-Model Summary, 2,80-P1.0-02.pdf?dl=0 Take care... /Per

Hi New version in Helix so a new version of my Cheat Sheet, Line6 Helix Model Summary, for the one who like it on a printed sheet or as a file on your PC/MAC. Have added the new models in 2.80 firmware. They are in the order of appearance on the unite. Same format as before. Download it from my Dropbox here - https://www.dropbox.com/s/d6jyu6p3148nz5y/Line6 Helix-Model Summary, 2,80-P1.0-02.pdf?dl=0 Have fun //Per Edit: Changed the link adress to the correct document

Hi Hope this helps - https://www.dropbox.com/s/w6pvbv1l0t0b5cf/Line6 Helix-Model Summary%2C 2%2C60-P1.0-01.pdf?dl=0 /Per

Hi I have a Helix LT with an “external” pedalboard, a few pedals I can’t leave – a compressor, my EP boost (different characteristic from the one in the helix) and my Monty Allums moded Boss BD2. Together with my wireless, Variax pwr unite, a Boss NS2 and an ISO transformer all mounted on a PT Novo 18. This is what’s left of my big board used with my PD HD Pro. Today they are all connected in serial. I would like to integrate it closer to the Helix and using a loop switch so I can turn the comp, EP and the BD2 on/off through a loop switch via MIDI from Helix and assigned switches. I have now drilled this down to two loop switches – G-Lab MIDI 4x Looper (fit on top of the board) and Decibel 11 Loop Extender (fit underneath the board). Price and size have mattered. I also looked at Voodolab HEX looks great but it’s expensive and more than I need, I think. I had an RJM Effect Gizmo, too big to fit my small board, so I sold it (a dream to use). So, my questions to you who have experience from loop switches in general and G-lab/Decibel 11 in particular. Any recommendation and what I should think of? Experience with the G-lab vs Decibel 11? Thanks //Per

Hi Is this what you are looking for? https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/line6-helix.1586637/page-3062#post-28096505

Good to hear Yes. it is a fantastic device. Inspires to to thing you didn't know you could do... and have just scratch the surface. //Per

Do this If you have the old Edit installed a good practice is to make a backup if you have patches an IRs you like to be sure to keep. Go to - https://line6.com/software/ and in the first column select you Helix hardware and in the third column select you mac os and press Go Scroll down to HX Edit 2.71 and press Get Download. You should now start the download. If you are not loged in you will be prompted to do so before it will start. When finished click on the file (I do not know Mac so you need to help me out...) and make the installation. It includes all files - Edit, drivers and updater. Run Edit and see that it starts. Close Edit (important) and start Updater. You should now see your Helix and you sw version. Follow the instructions and run update of the new firmware. I always let the updater do the download. You can download firmware manually end pick it up in the updater. Rest it done by the updater and Helix. Except that you need to accept terms and start update. I always restart the Helix after finish update. Just to be safe... don't know if needed. Sure that someone will correct or add info if forgot something EDIT - Forgot to say, what I know there is no zip'ed files in the download (run PC and have never seen one there). You just make an ordinary installation on your Mac of the HX Edit program with the downloaded file from above. If you downloaded the Helix firmware earlier, its a binary file and can’t be opened or executed. It is installed via the updater into the Helix, see instruction above. Good luck //Per

But I do it anyway. Caught a cold over the Christmas holidays so the strength was not on top. What to do… Well, why not some Excel-micros :-). So, what to program? … a DSP-calculator maybe. Done! It has its flaws, but it seems to work. Useful, thought to hear what the pros say, I mean you… It contains both the DSP-calculator (dual paths and main and sub on each path) and my earlier cheat sheet (ready to be printed or exported to pdf if you like) as a quick reference. It includes all up to 2.6. Main DSP-numbers are mainly from the Helix DSP Values.xlsx, with some add-ons from other sources. Even in a few cases I have guest the numbers... The future will show if I guessed correct. There are some more notations in the DSP-calculator file. So, test it if you want. Constructive feedback is welcome. If it’s of any use I may keep it updated and even add features. Hope you had a great Christmas and wish you all a Happy New Year. 2.8 is waiting... Please find the calculator below. Have fun... //Per Helix DSP Calculator -P1.1-05.xlsx

Hi Don't know if this helps you, but I made a cheat sheet to have at hand - https://www.dropbox.com/s/w6pvbv1l0t0b5cf/Line6 Helix-Model Summary%2C 2%2C60-P1.0-01.pdf?dl=0. If you like quick info it's handy. If you like it in on-line format there is some sites online. I included this one - http://www.helixhelp.com/, with great info and very useful. I also included another address in the document (could not include it in the post by some reason...) to a forum post with massive info about all models. One on the info sources I used for my document above. I actually think this is the original info that is used on the helixhelp-site. Anyway, really a great job on both places. Enjoy. //Per

You can turn the touch sense off in the setup menu. Then you can use it with or without socks and don't need to have shoes on indoors... //Per

If you go back to playback sound device and select inactivate/disable (I have swedish version so something similar and press OK, you should be good. Now you can't use it as sound card but everything else should work. I acually use it this way as I had the same problem. Cheers /Per

That’s a great idea ... Had an idea that you could only use a suitable bag such as the one in a suitcase to pack shirts in, but maybe a bit stronger/durable, flat square lying loose on top of the Helix. Didn't think of your method... Your method looks interesting. It also means I have to ask how you “fixed” the Helix in the case? Assuming that the cover with the padding do not reaches the Helix, so what’s keeping the Helix in place, preventing it to movewhen lifting the case? I was thinking to fix the Helix with Velcro attached on two or three places underneath. Velcro put on two or three discs/plates, which means that I do not have to remove the feet and keeping the ventilation around the device. Worked on a MIDI board I had before (hade to strips of aluminum with Velcro on both sides width of the Velcro), but the Helix is heavier so have to do some experimenting on this. Or you might have the solution. Have looked at several types of cases, including tailor made, but they are a little too narrow or too wide for what I want to use it for. Yours looks good, but Amazon do not ship to Sweden... Has found one from Swan Flight Cases and one from Rock Case Flight case. The problem with both is that I would like to add a separate expression pedal later and both are a bit too narrow or the next size will be huge. Keep on looking… Will check out the RockBoard mod-moules. Also interesting. The thing is that I have split my gear into two pieces, Helix and a future expression pedal (will go into a case) and one with some irreplaceable pedals… , wireless rx, power switch for my Variax and some more. All mounted on a PT Novo 18. //Per

Looks really good, clean and compact... Who made the case and what is the size. On my way to make something simillar./ Inspiring... //Per

Nice rigg to troubleshoot when sound goes dead quiet...

Is that a lead where the Helix is hiding... in the trousers of your drummer? :-)

Hi Another update of my Cheat Sheet, Line6 Helix Model Summary, if anyone are intereted. Up to date with 2.60 update and all amps, cabs, mics and effects are in order of appearance on the unite. Still the same format Download from my Dropbox - https://www.dropbox.com/s/w6pvbv1l0t0b5cf/Line6 Helix-Model Summary%2C 2%2C60-P1.0-01.pdf?dl=0 Have fun //Per

Sorry for late reply... The problem I run into when was that the grounding between the units was through the shield of the audio cables. As my power sockets was not grounded and was using two different sockets, this resulted in two potentialdifferent depending in what extension cord the unites where plugged in to. This current was even out through the shield in the audio cables. So when I was trouble shooting I unplugged all audio cables. Stared the power amp no noise. Added the mixer, no noise. My mistake now was to add the usb cable from the computer connected to the other socket... I saw the sparc between the cable and my XT. The usb was gone. If i would have added the audio cable from the XT to the mixer I would've been ok. So the solution in my case was those things * I made a grounding of the two different extensions so all equipment was on same level. I also extended the grounding to a real grounding point. My rack+pedal board and my pc. * I rearranged all cabling in my rack. Power on one side and signals on the other side. * Added a power conditioner, Furman, taking care of all power in rack and two my pedal board. * Disconnected one fluorescent lamp and one halogen lamp with noisy transformer. Still had some hummm so the solution was the Lehle transformer in audio cable between my pedal board and rack. All dead quiet... Today I have a smaller pedalboard, Pedal train Nano, with my Shure tuner, Variax power, BD2, Echoplex boost and Lehle transformer. Signal chain is Guitar -> A/B/Y -> tuner/pedal chain -> Lehle transformer -> Helix -> Mixer (sampson rack type) -> Power amp (InterM 500) -> Speakers (modded hifi tuned for guitar, more like pa speakers, homemade :-). If I remove the Lehle I get back the hummmm. The Lehle transformer is this - https://moodysounds.com/produkt/p-split-kit/. I bought the transformer, the kit didn't exist then, but it's the same. Conclution is - All attached units at the same ground level, should not even out in the audio cables. Break the chain with a transformer. In your case I would try a different pc in the first step. The Lehle transformer can be handy anyway, but will probably not help if the charger or pc inject hum. And now sorry for a long reply :-) Chears /Per

Hej garbanzo Va roligt, tror det första gången det blir svenska här... Eftersom du har brum även utan PC'n ansluten så är nog de två senaste tipsen vägen att fortsätta. Kan bara tillägga att undvika härvor av kablar, speciellt med både el och signalkablar. Samt att när du kopplar loss allt och kopplar samman, ha utrustningen avstängd. Jag blåste en USB-port pga att jorden inte funkade mellan min mixer och min gamla POD XT... Dvs alla ändringar görs med strömmen avstängd. Oavsett så borde det funka. Kikade på förstärkaren och ser inget konstigt. En enkel test - Du kan ju prova en EQ i slutet av signalkedjan, t.ex. Lo Cut/Hi Cut, och ställa LoCut på t.ex. 110 Hz. Det du hör borde vara 50 eller 100 Hz. Bara som en test för satt se om det kommer signalvägen eller ej. Sorry guys, my bad... couldn't resist to comunicate in swedish for the first time on this forum (been here since POD 1.0). If curious, Google translate :-) Chears //Per

Sorry jbuhajla, did not see your responce :-) But we are on the same track... //Per

I guess you have a portable computer/laptop running on batteries but you have a charger connected..? And I understand it’s only when you have the computer connected to your Helix you get the hum. No hum without computer or the Helix connected to something else, like a powered speaker or into a mixer. You are also connected to the same socket/plugged into the same extension cord. Not two different sockets/outlets. If so, try · Disconnect your charger from your laptop and see if the hum goes away · Try your Helix with another computer Have been into this myself but in my case, it was a fluorescent light, a lamp with a halogen lamp and a noisy transformer, a ground loop… at the same time. Solution was to safe the grounding between ALL the units, unplug the lights (the halogen was hardest to find as even if I turned the light off the transformer was on). The one that killed the last bit of hum was an insolation transformer (from Lehle) between my pedal board an my POD HD Pro (my rig at the time and if I take the transformer out now I get the noise back on the Helix too). Don’t now it help but maybe a lead… To give a better answer it would help to know how your gear are connected together. I guess its more then the Helix rack and your computer.