codamedia

I don't have my board with me today .... It's really quite easy... open it up and find the 1K resistor. It should be the only resistor in the box. There are two options... Remove it and replace it with a wire Just solder a wire to the two ends of the resistor (even though the resistor is still there, by putting a wire across it you have eliminated the resistance)

I bought a used 300 for this very reason. If I am buying disposable gear, I am going to pay disposable dollars :) At least the newer models (JTV, Standard, Shuriken) come with pickups... so the guitar itself can stay relevant in a worse case scenario.

Install L6 MONKEY then update (from Monkey) the items it tells you to update. It should be as easy as that. If it still isn't working you need to try a different USB port. There are usually 4 USB plug ins per PORT.... a different plug isn't always the answer. This is NOT a problem related to L6... USB is a shared resource on a computer and the more complicated the device, the more "dedicated" it needs those resources to be.

M-Audio EX-P.... Cheap, cheap, cheap... yet functions fine and is relatively sturdy for the price tag. * Set the switch on the back to M-Audio * Set the MIN knob all the way down * (Optional) Open it up and solder a bare wire across the 1K resistor so it's out of play. This allows the pedal to work with blocks that require "auto on" such as a WAH.

Sorry to hear that... yes, it does sound like the unit itself. I've got one of the "noisy" units but have been working around that while our Canadian distributor got a new shipment. I was just informed that I'll get my new HX next week... I hope I don't end up trading one problem of another "potentially worse" problem. Mine has been rock solid other than the known "noise" issue with the loops.

It is obvious that you know how to troubleshoot! I love it when people know what they are doing and can explain things in great detail rather than "it doesn't work" :) Based on what you are saying, it sounds like something is failing in the HX Edit, or the patch that is causing grief is causing more grief than you think. Have you eliminated that patch altogether to see if HX Edit can load everything else? Do you have a recent backup of your patches? If so... I'd try full reset of the HX then reload your backups to see if that works. I'm following this thread...

Herein lies the caveat. Workbench won't install on an older machine either without the steps of manually installing JAVA. So the options are... old machine that L6 claims Workbench works on, but it won't install without a workaround. OR - Newer computer that L6 claims it won't work on... but it does, with the same workarounds as the old machine needs :) NOTE: That's the options for Windows.... I don't know about MAC.

I don't own an LT, but I do own the Helix Effects. I use a return block all of the time for an extra input... it works fine. I can't see the LT being any different. Yes - you will need to create a patch with the return inserted in order to use it. There is no global way to insert it.

I expect products to die... when the electronics start to fail in the older Variax guitars, so be it... that is life. When L6 claims that Workbench (original) doesn't work on Windows 10.... and I am comfortably running Workbench original on two computers with Windows 10.... that's BS! They just don't WANT to tell people those old guitars still work, or make it convenient for people to keep them working! Guitar players have a lot of choices that will NEVER become a paper weight.... Sure, they will require service and repair, but that will never be a problem. You can't compare a Variax to an HP Printer...

I see in the video you are using the auto installer from online. It is possible that your machine has cached a corrupted copy of the installer. Down the update file separately, then run the installer choosing a local file.

Although you may be correct, planned obsolescence of a guitar can't be good for sales... especially as it becomes widely known.

If you don't want to go the JAVA route, then you will never be able to use the older Workbench. It is required and used to be part of the the Workbench install until the installer "pointer" no longer pointed to the correct URL at JAVA.COM. That is why you have to do it manually now.

You would have to drop everything an octave, and IMO - pitch shifting gets really wonky at that point, especially when you need to sustain a note. That said... on days when I can't drag my Bass VI (a guitar tuned down an octave) to a gig I mimic that with the "legacy > bass octave". It's not great, but it works OK if I stick to single lines. I should take the time to try a few others... but I use it so rarely I haven't gotten around to finding a better patch. As for amps... start with the "Tuck n' Go" based on the Ampeg Flip Top. It's really easy to setup and sounds great... it's also one of the most recorded bass amps in history. Studio players loved them.

Something is very wrong if you are not hearing any difference between a 0% mix and a 100% mix. Remove the cables from the send/return... then see what happens when you adjust that mix control. With the loop turned on you should get NO SOUND when it is set to 100% and having it set to 0 should be the same as having the effect turned off.

Tell the search you use Windows 8... or even Windows 7... then download that version. No need to be so honest :) ABSOLUTE BS! Both my desktop and laptop are on the latest versions of Windows 10... it works fine! For the record, I also own a Variax 300. I don't use Mac, so I cannot comment there. For Windows 10, it is simple. 1: Go to JAVA.COM and install the latest version of JAVA 2: Go to the Line 6 download area, and download the latest version of the original Workbench software... not HD. If you choose Windows 10 as part of the search it will not find it, enter Windows 8 or 7 into the search and download that version (as mentioned above) 3: Install Workbench but de-select the option to install JAVA... you already installed that in step on. If it throws a Java error, ignore it! Launch workbench and enjoy!

You have the idea. There are two options... 1: If you don't need all 9 fx blocks, just insert a SEND and send that to your dry amp... the HX output would then send to your wet rig.The send can go wherever you want... so if you wanted DIRT to both amps it can come after the dirt, but before any delays and reverbs. 2: For a full wet/dry setup... drop all of your effects to path B then hard pan the Y split at the end of the chain. Path A (no effects) to the dry amp, path B to the wet amp. The reason I suggest moving everything to Path B is because the Y split at the end will not be created without something on Path B.

This sounds like a BLEND problem.... a setting within the loop block of the HX Effects. Make sure your HX Effects LOOP or SEND (whichever method you use) doesn't have the blend at 50/50! If half the signal is bypassing the loop it will hit the power amp input directly and won't provide the desired results. I don't have my unit or manual in front of me, but I think you want the blend set to 100%. If that doesn't work, try the other way :)

Yes... the original release of these units (the noisy ones) are the result of somebody screwing up. There are out of spec parts so that means it was either designed that way, written that way, or manufactured that way. Somebody screwed up even if it is five company's removed and a box of caps or resistors got mislabeled. As for the "bricking".... it terrifies me to read some of these posts. My HX Effects has been great... no issues at all. But I suspect all of my confidence would go out the window should it leave me high and dry at a gig. I run a redundant system, I can survive without it, but that's not the point.

There is a great step by step provided by Line 6. I'm not sure anyone here can lay it out in more detail :) https://line6.com/support/page/kb/pod/pod-hd500-hd500x/installing-hd-model-packs-on-hd500x500hdhd-prohd-pro-x-r730/

Don't confuse MIDI and Audio... This question I quoted above is about AUDIO.... if it were me, I'd put the M9 into the loop of the HD500. * HD Loop send to M9 input * M9 output to HD Loop return * Don't forget to insert and turn on the loop block on the HD. The original question about syncing patches (already answered by phil_m) will require a MIDI cable. * Midi OUT from the HD500 to Midi IN on the M9 The two units should talk to each other (patch changes) without any additional setup... unless the default midi setting have been changed.

If it were me... and I couldn't afford the 500, I would look for another used XT or X3 to hold me over rather than going for a 300/400. YES - the HD can sound better after you take the time to learn it... but it doesn't have the features of the older XT and X3. With the HD500 you will overlook the missing features A) because it sounds better & B) because it's extremely flexible in how you lay out the chain - which is a great feature of it's own. The 300/400 still limits your chain flexibility & they lose a boat load of features. Aside from the sound (which is debatable), I think you would feel like you took a step back. Just my 2 cents...

In the "signal flow" view you have the ability to assign any footswitch to any effect block. Simply set the same footswitch number to the blocks you want shared. The state of those effects can be the same, or reversed from each other with the footswitch as well. It takes a moment to get used to it, but it's really easy.

That is the complete opposite of what the vast majority complain about. I never owned the XT but I did use an X3 live for many years which I believe was the same models. I recall the amps sounding dull and lifeless compared to the next generations. Again... the opposite of what you are suggesting.

Out of curiosity, what was in that patch... and how complex was it (ie: snaphots changes, instant commands, ext controllers, etc...) That's a good "gotcha" to watch for. The one time I had my HD500 go into a repetitive boot cycle it stopped (and booted normally) once I unplugged my Variax. @Phil110567... Are you connected to any other devices beyond a guitar and amp when this happened?

I use an HD500 and an HX Effects.... all my eggs are not in one basket. In my ultimate setup, both units work together but if one of the units failed I also have each unit setup to work as a stand alone. I know this question is more about the HELIX though, which is meant to be a stand alone. If I had a Helix my plan would be the same as it was when I used the HD500 on it's own. I have a Zoom G3 that used to get hauled to each gig as a backup. They are about $100 used, small enough to slip into an existing case, sound very decent and are built surprisingly tough. In a pinch I know I can always get through a night with my G3. Before my HD500 I used the X3 Live.... back then I carried two units (got a 2nd one for dirt cheap) so if one failed the other was a 100% replica. Knock on wood.... I have never needed to resort to my backup plans.