rd2rk

I just installed "Sound Recorder". It shows as "Voice Recorder". Is that what you're using? If so, the recorded level sounds right. Settings>Sound>Input should show the DIGITAL AUDIO INTERFACE (Helix or similar, I tested on my HXS). Settings>Sound>Output should show whatever your speakers are connected to. If you open Windows Sound Panel>Recording>Digital Audio Interface>Properties>Levels the default setting in my system is 100%. Windows Sound Panel>Playback>(default device)>Properties>Levels the default for the internal sound card is 80%, Helix is 100%. That's all you get with Sound Recorder, it's about the most minimalist recorder I've ever seen. There's no way to check the actual Input level in decibels. Edit: Helix Global Settings>Ins/Outs>third page there's a "Digital Out Level", but that only controls the AES/DBU (L6 Link) and S/PDIF. It does not affect USB out.

Proper recording levels (leaving headroom for mixing) are around -18 to -12db. What levels are you seeing?

Because it's not. You just can't admit that you're wrong. I've explained the logic multiple times and all you can say is "It shouldn't be that way". Obtuse. Google the word. I know that it's not, and you're the only one who thinks it is. Ergo, you are wrong about it being a flaw AND you are wrong about EVERYBODY (google the word) knowing it. That's called "doubling down". WTH is a sider valve???

As above, but... ears can be tricky, there's PERCEIVED volume (how your ears hear the sound) and actual SPL Volume as measured in decibels. Heavily distorted tones might be PERCEIVED as louder, but because distortion compresses the peaks, clean sounds might actually be louder when measured in decibels. The longer you spend on comparing by ear, the less accurate your ears become - called "ear fatigue". If you go this way, rest your ears frequently. Most modern humans have a smart phone. You can get an app to measure decibels. Not SCIENTIFICALLY accurate, but RELATIVELY accurate and sufficient to the task. You can also use a DAW. In addition to input meters most DAWs have a db meter plugin, or one can be DL'd. This is an even more accurate way than a phone app in that the signal is direct, and therefore not affected by ambient sounds. They also react faster. Someday someone will create an AI to level our tones and protect us from loud music. Skynet to the rescue...

I explained the design logic. Are you just being obtuse?

When you bypass the effect, the dry signal continues to be passed through the block. Use Snapshots so that you can have either or both fx on, but when they're both off the volume on the fx path is off. Try the attached demo preset. My Powercab is connected using L6 Link, so change the output as necessary for your setup, just don't forget to reassign the Output Block Level to Snapshots and set it to -120db (OFF) on the Dry Only Snapshot. Guus7181.hlx

I hooked up the FS to test this (I normally use MIDI) and I can confirm that this happens. Setting the FS to MOMENTARY does not change this behavior, it just causes the A/B function to require two taps. Open a support ticket.

The problem with this configuration is getting any desired POST FX (delay, reverb) to both the guitar amp and the FR12 without wasting blocks duplicating them on each path. Other than that, I would go the opposite way - use the SEND at INSTRUMENT level for the guitar amp. That way the balanced MAIN OUTS could serve double duty to your FR12 or, with a 1/4" to XLR adapter, go to FOH or, if your signal paths are MONO, both. Another option if your guitar amp has an FX Loop would be to use the same HX AMP for both. Using the SEND as above, place the HX AMP and all (pre and post) fx before the SEND and put the HX CAB (or IR) after the SEND. This way the AMP and all FX go to both, the CAB only goes to the FR12/FOH from the balanced MAIN Outs, and your stage sound is more like what the audience hears. The only "wasted" block is the SEND, no duplication. Another option like the above would be to do it the same way except pull down the CAB to create a SPLIT after the HX AMP/FX. Pull down the MIX Block to have the Path B Output be the SENDS (LINE LEVEL) which go to the FR12/FOH with the MAIN Outs (INSTRUMENT LEVEL) going to the guitar amp. This saves the wasted SEND block. The drawback being that if there's a long cable run to FOH you would need a DI to get the balanced signal, unless you can use the XLR Out on the FR12 which I assume is balanced, but it would have to be independent of the FR12 Volume control (your stage level) or the FOH tech would hate you. There're other workarounds I suppose, but I'm tired of typing...

IDK about Androids - I don't allow them in my house - but on my iPhone there's 7 pages of settings. Those are on the third page.

The speakers are tuned perfectly per the goals of the design team - to make them sound as good as they can with the 6 (now 12) different amp models that are included. The problem is NOT that the speakers are "badly tuned". It's that the developer's ears are not YOUR ears. You can make some of the people happy some of the time... I also use my Catalyst with Helix. The myriad ways in which that can be done, including with a ToneX pedal in another FX Loop, is incredible! What a wonderful world of guitar noises we live in! My first amp was a radio sans tuner with a 3inch speaker and a volume knob. Oh, and that hissing, screeching noise? That's not the amp. That's all of the neighborhood cats gathered in front of your house, sharpening their claws. Hope you stocked up on kitty treats! ;-)

IDK, could be the tech was preoccupied with something else - like, maybe, how close the fires were... Or maybe they just misunderstood the problem. If phone browsers can't DL the tones from Customtone they'll never be on your phone. Is there an iOS browser that allows that? That's really the only question L6 needs to answer. Could be that no one at L6 has ever tried to DL from Customtone onto a phone. I never did. Why they had a problem finding where the editor stores files - they're all MAC/iOS users. How often do MAC users do anything involving direct access to the file system? Does the average iOS user even know that it's possible? FILES>BROWSE>On My iPhone>Catalyst Edit>Presets FILES>BROWSE>On My iPad>Catalyst Edit>Presets Took a few seconds to find, and I'm a lifelong PC/DOS/WINDOWS user! Anyhow, at least you have the workaround.

Not if they're OFF. I've already explained the purpose of the attenuation in Power Amp Mode. IDK what the Kemper does, which is why I suggested that OP should RTM. Helix can be set to LINE or INSTRUMENT level, which I've also already noted. Adjusting volume is necessary with all audio devices - that's why they have VOLUME KNOBS. Use your Catalyst any way it works for you but stop spreading misinformation to new and potential users. Yes, it's misinformation. How do I know? Experience AND the fact that I'm active on MANY forums and NO ONE has ever said ANYTHING like the stuff you're saying. ANYWHERE!

It works that way in ALL modes. I messed around with it a bit and this is what I found: Each effect has its own default SYNC setting. If you change it, the first time you use TAP from the FS, it stays at your setting. The second time it switches back to the default. If you use MIDI TAP (CC#64 Value 127) the SYNC setting does not revert. Seems like a bug in the way the FS works. I use MIDI which is why I never noticed this. You have three choices. 1- setting the tempo manually in the app doesn't revert the SYNC setting. 2- Report it to support which, considering the fires, may take a while to get a response which will probably be "I'll pass this up to the developers" and that'll be the end of it. 3- Get a MIDI controller. If you're serious about using the functions not available via the panel, this is the way to go. I recommend the Hotone Ampero Control. Relatively inexpensive ($120), small, VERY powerful and relatively easy to program from a smart phone or tablet using BT but has DIN connectors so BT is NOT required during regular operation if you have the Cat100/200. The CX60 will require a full-time USB connection to your mobile device and a routing app such as AUM if you have iOS. IDK what you'd use with an Android device. Maybe Audio Evolution Mobile Studio? You'd also need a HUB so that you can connect both the controller and a charger to keep the mobile device from dying during performance. All of this works great with iOS (tested on my Cat100) but again, IDK about Android - I don't allow them in my house! NOTE - if you want to try this - for programming via BT - my iPhone SE connects fine, but my ancient iPad Air will not connect. BT is weird like that and I'm clueless as to how anything works with Androids. Buy the Ampero someplace with a good returns policy like Amazon or look for a controller that does not require BT but will send multiple commands per press.

I've posted this elsewhere in this thread, but here it is again: The POWER AMP IN position of the MODE SWITCH attenuates the signal (in all attenuator settings) by (IIRC) 6db to accommodate preamps/multifx whose output is LINE LEVEL only. The FX LOOP position provides FULL VOLUME for use with devices whose output is INSTRUMENT level, which is what most guitar amp fx loops expect. Helix/HX devices can be set to either LINE or INSTRUMENT level outputs. Check your Kemper manual to see if it also has that feature and set the MODE SWITCH accordingly.

Scroll Down in HX Edit, Page Right on the box.