rd2rk

If you're using the example preset, and you're wired as I described, there's no way that the FX located before the FX loop aren't working. You've missed something. Wiring, again - Guitar>HXS L/Mono Input>FX Loop L Send>6505 Input>6505 FX Send>HXS LEFT Return Regardless of whether you have the FX Loop ON or OFF, the signal CAN'T reach ANY output without passing through the pre-loop FX.

Exactly what cable are you using? You said it's a custom cable? With a two channel amp you shouldn't need anything more than a TRS, but I noticed in the manual that the stock footswitch also has switching for rhythm/crunch, and a multi-pin connector, so knowing the specifics of a custom cable could be useful. Did it come with a pin-out? Also, you STILL haven't posted the preset so we can troubleshoot the problem properly.

Referring to the first example - A) With the FX LOOP L turned ON, the signal goes HXS Input>Distortion>6505 Pre-amp>Time based FX MONO>6505 Power-amp>Load Box>HXS Outputs>Stereo amp. B) With the FX LOOP L turned OFF, the signal goes HXS Input>Distortion>HXS amp/preamp>Time based FX MONO>6505 Power-amp>Load Box>HXS Outputs>Stereo amp. Referring to the second (stereo) example - A) With the FX LOOP L turned ON, the signal goes HXS Input>Distortion>6505 Pre-amp>6505 Power-amp>Load Box>Time based FX STEREO>HXS Outputs>Stereo amp. B) With the FX LOOP L turned OFF, the signal goes HXS Input>Distortion>HXS amp/preamp>6505 Power-amp>Load Box>Time based FX STEREO>HXS Outputs>Stereo amp. If you MUST have (A) in STEREO, you'll need to trade your HXS for the full-fat Helix Floor or Rack, both of which have 4 FX Loops. One loop MONO for the pre-amp options, two loops are needed for stereo for the time-based FX. With the HXS, HXFX or HXLT, you only get 2 FX Loops, so you have to choose A or B.

Here's how you do it if you want your post amp FX in stereo. Everything is the same as far as the wiring, you've just moved the 6505 power amp and load box ahead of the FX, which can now be stereo. The main difference is that in the first example, the FX are placed as a guitarist in a LIVE situation without the stereo complications might do it. That is, with the time-based FX in the amp's FX Loop. This in necessarily MONO, unless the amp has a stereo FX Loop and power amps like the JC120. The second example is how it might be done in a studio, with the engineer adding the FX post guitar amp. heikoStereo.hlx

The attached preset demos how to do it. You'll need an "INSERT" cable - 1/4" TRS to 1/4" dual Mono. Tip is the LEFT FX Loop, Ring is RIGHT. Guitar>HXS L/Mono INPUT>HXS LEFT FX SEND>6505 Guitar Input 6505 FX SEND>HXS LEFT FX RETURN HXS RIGHT FX SEND>6505 FX RETURN LOAD BOX LINE OUT>HXS RIGHT FX RETURN HXS Main Outputs>Stereo Power Amp The HXS FS 2 (Blue) allows you to switch between a HXS amp/Preamp and the 6505 preamp. ON (Lit) is the 6505. EDIT: Set the LEFT FX LOOP to INSTRUMENT, set the RIGHT to LINE. heikobear.hlx

You're out of DSP. Remove stuff until you recover enough DSP.

Now would be a good time to read the manual, specifically page 9, which describes and illustrates 4cm (4 cable method).

Whenever the signal enters or leaves a digital device over an analog cable - TS/TRS vs USB/L6 Link - there's a DA conversion (outbound) or AD conversion (inbound). So, yes.

Currently discounted $200.....

That won't work, you need proper 5-pin MIDI cables. FWIW - I sold my PC112+ with which I was not overly thrilled, and bought a PC212+. I love it!

Unless you're wanting to slave the physical knob. That won't work, which is why MIDI.

If the MIDI is configured correctly as I described, both volumes should be under control of the expression pedal, as the MIDI is both controlling PC1 and passing through PC1 to PC2. That's why they need to be on the same MIDI Channel with MIDI Thru enabled on PC1.

Isn't the Expression pedal now doing that?

Further to the above - If you want to use a single FS and MIDI CC#7 (keeps the Output Level to the PC steady), IIRC the MIDI value for 0.0db is 108. EDIT: DISREGARD! I did not recall correctly. However, as I just tried this with the FS method, it works fine, but be aware that you'll need to use a Toggling CC, and once you've found your ideal Min/Max Values, when you load the Preset the Min Value will be sent, overriding the physical knob setting. You could, of course use 2 footswitches with regular non-toggling CCs, which are NOT sent on Preset load, but seems to be a waste of footswitches to me. The whole footswitch idea is kind of strange, since volume level requirements are never the same from one venue to the next. Fine for home use I suppose......

CC#7 controls the PC Volume knob. Of course it doesn't physically turn it, but that's what's being controlled. If you want a static increase via a footswitch, you can simply assign the FS to the Output Block Level with appropriate Min/Max settings.

Reinstall Helix Native. That'll reinstall the drivers and that should fix it.

The best way I know of to do this is to assign an expression pedal to send CC#7 (undocumented). With two cabs you'll need to have the MIDI ports chained - Helix Out/Thru>PC112+#1 MIDI IN>PC112+#1 MIDI Out/Thru>PC112+#2 MIDI In. Both need to be set to the same MIDI Channel that your Helix is transmitting on, and MIDI Thru needs to be enabled on PC112+#1.

1-Choose a Snapshot. 2-Press and Hold the knob below the desired parameter. Set Controller to SNAPSHOTS. Repeat for all parameters that you would like to control. 3-Set the parameters as desired for that Snapshot. SAVE! Repeat 1 and 3 for all Snapshots. Don't forget to SAVE between Snapshots.

By default, USB 1/2 (from your iPad) bypasses all processing and goes directly to The Main Outputs. Take the Main Outputs to your mixer or monitors for your backing tracks. Put your processing blocks on Path B, then separate the Outputs by pulling down the Mixer Block. Change the Split Block to "Split A/B" and route the signal at the split 100% to Path B. Take the signal to your amp using a TS cable from the SEND (3/L), or use an INSERT cable (TRS to dual TS) for Stereo.

Further to the above - IIRC, the amp cab interaction/response curve is baked into the Amp+Cab combo. The chosen mic and distance is based on somebody's perception of what works best (or their personal preference) for that Amp+Cab in the genre that combo is most popularly used in. I'd start there, and research what others who play like you are using.

I play blues/classic rock, so Eb is as low as I go.

As it should be. No danger, If the signal was too hot you'd hear excessive power amp distortion. Some people like that. Use whichever works best.

Try them both and use the one that works best. You won't hurt anything.

The Dual Cab Block is stereo. If you MUST use IRs, you're SOL with the Stomp.

Outside of the stereo routing issues, the main problem I see with this is latency and noise. Each AD/DA conversion takes <>1.8ms. You have 6 total. 6 x 1.8 = 10.8ms. Add to that whatever latency might exist within each unit - I'll guess <1ms, so call it .8ms(?) x 3 = 2.4 + 10.8 = 13.2ms. The average person starts to "hear" latency at around 10ms. Some say that they begin to "feel" latency at as low as 2ms (Steve Vai - for us mortals it's probably more like 4-5ms). If you use a wireless, add another 1.8ms = 15ms. Altogether, it's not an insurmountable amount, but if you're used to the snappiness of plugging a guitar straight into an amp, it could be a problem. Also, while individually these devices are very quiet, even with high end patch cables a certain amount of noise could be introduced. Certainly less than a moderate sized analog pedalboard, but still, something to consider. I'm not saying this won't work, just pointing out some considerations.