rd2rk

One trick I've been using lately is to use MIDI to add a LITTLE HF Driver to the Speaker emulations, and subtract a LITTLE from the FRFR/IRs. That's CC#5, and FWIW, a Value of 113 is 0db. +/- 1db is a Value of +/- 2. So, using a Speaker Emulation, sending CC#5 Value 0 turns OFF the HF Driver. This is useful since the "automatic" function doesn't always work properly. Sending CC#5 Value 2 results in -94.5db (95.5 is MIN before OFF). Using cabs/IRs (in Helix OR PC+), sending CC#5 Value 113 results in 0db, useful for the same reason stated above. CC#5 Value 104 results in -7.5db. This is very much a taste thing, and the Values used are not 1/1 with the db levels, so experiment!

Unless all of the inputs on the optical interface are always occupied, just connect the Helix outs to that. That'll get the Helix to your monitors while recording. The Helix USB can be left connected. Then all you need to do when you want to do a DI guitar track is change the ASIO driver in Your DAW. If you need to do a DI track while recording everything else simultaneously, then my previous suggestions are what you're left with. I assume that LPX is Logic Pro X. That means you're using a MAC. Have you looked into creating an Aggregate Device so that you can use BOTH the UAD and Helix as ASIO devices concurrently? I'm not a MAC guy so I can't give you details, but I've heard that it can be done.

You have to assign a FS as a Bypass for an effect before it will appear. The FS needs to be on the Row that you're viewing - if you want to see Stomps on the Top Row, assign a Top Row (FS1-FS5). To see FS1 (Top Row Stomps) or FS7 (bottom Row Stomps) you need to be in 10 Switch Stomp Mode.

Page 66 Helix 3.0 Owner's Manual - Rev E - English

Maybe if you gave us a better idea of what EXACTLY you're trying to accomplish? A few auxiliary pieces of gear? 8 devices bypass-able by switch, and only by switch? But can't use Snapshots because? All of your Stomps are also in use? Can't use a proper external MIDI controller because? The device you referenced has 8 MIDI activated HW switches. Then you added "or similar". Have you looked at the VooDoo Labs PX-8 Plus Loop Switcher? I'm trying to help, but I need more info....

No matter how many times/ways it's been asked (many), the answer remains the same: Take a Split at the beginning of the signal chain. Separate the Outputs (no mixer block). Pan one Left and the other right. Oh, you're using the splits for other stuff? Use Helix as your AI, as it was designed to be used. Your UAD ain't that much better sounding (not at all with Helix via USB - one less DA/AD conversion), and it takes a minute to change ASIO drivers in your DAW when you think it's necessary. You can also, if you believe that the Helix is just TOO dreadful to use as an AI (or whatever the reason is for your UAD preference), use an A/B box before the Helix. This defeats the Auto Impedance feature, but just don't use FX that require Input Impedance below 1M in order to sound "authentic" and you'll be fine.

Interesting. I'll have to try that!

BKS = Big Knob Studio. Being the first device you mentioned, I assumed it to be your first choice. Palmer Monicon L = $240 on Amazon. That's a pretty expensive mixer. Nice wood though. At the point where you feel the need for comparing a mix through multiple speakers, that implies (to me) serious intent. While Helix is a decent basic Audio Interface, it's not intended for a serious studio. Despite L6's claims that it can be the "HUB" of your studio, it's limitations as a studio "HUB" are many. If you're only ever going to simultaneously record one or two instruments and a vocal with simple signal paths, maybe use it as a MIDI pass-through for synths and eDrums, you'll be fine. But at the point where you think you need a specialized speaker switcher for $240, consider, you're halfway to a proper multi-I/O Audio Interface with better specs (including better latency) than the Helix (Scarlett 3rd gen 18i20=$549 on Amazon). And, Helix can be configured for multiple speaker systems for use while you're saving for the better AI. Do what you want and can afford, but just some things to consider.

I was just reading a little more, and the BKS is in fact an ASIO Audio Interface, so you can just use it instead of Helix as AI. You might want to compare the audio specs on those to the specs on comparably priced AIs with S/PDIF (since you have a Floor). The BKS doesn't really do anything that a Focusrite Scarlett 18i8 (for example) can't do, including swapping speaker outputs. Bottom line, the BKS is just a fancy AI.

I suggest that you download the manuals for the THREE Big Knob products, and whatever else you might be considering. It LOOKS (after a brief look at the Big Knob Studio manual) like all you need to do is to connect the Helix to the computer by USB as ASIO Audio Interface to the DAW, and the DAW to the BKS by USB. Unless the BKS needs to be the AI, in which case, unless you have a MAC (create aggregate device), you'd need to connect a set of Outputs from the Helix to the BKS and route the audio to the BKS that way. However, there's a lot of possibilities with these devices, you need to get studying! I'm going to suggest that you'll find many more knowledgeable people in the area of studio design over on TGP in the RECORDING/LIVE SOUND Forum. But seriously, FIRST READ THE MANUALS! There's videos too!

As answered over on TGP: "As I understand it, the preamps are simply the preamp section decoupled from the power amp section. Since the amps are modeled at the component level, maybe that's the way it is ITRW?"

If all of your presets are the same per I/O, I might be able to help if you attach a sample. Otherwise, the solution has to be on a preset by preset basis. There's no global solution.

Same applies. Not random CC, random CC VALUES. IOW, if the device needs up to 8 different CCs each sending EITHER 127 (ON=64-127) or 0 (OFF=0-63) and you have no idea what VALUE will be sent when you press the switch.......

You didn't specify (it helps), so since you're referencing Exp 2/3, I assume. that you have a Floor. In order to have Helix send itself MIDI messages, you need to loop the MIDI IN/OUT ports. Plugging your latching FS into EXP3 and assigning EXP3 to send MIDI, you can send messages, but they are inconsistent and send random values from 0-127. So, if the value is between 0-63, it turns OFF (if it's already ON), and 64-127 does the opposite. Sometimes nothing happens, sometimes the assigned effect flashes ON/OFF as though a momentary FS is being used. Sometimes HX EDIT crashes and sometimes Helix locks up. Not good. IOW - Helix does not like this. Pony up the bucks for an external MIDI controller.

Take a split at the end of the signal chain. Put the cab/IR in that path and set it's output block to XLR. Set the output block on your main path to 1/4". Set Global Settings>Ins/Outs>Headphones Monitor to XLR. This won't work if you're already using the split for that path, but also allows for using the physical XLRs to send the signal to FOH with a cab/IR if necessary.

Since this thread is 3 yrs old and OP never got back with his fix, I'll ask all the pertinent questions. Please physically verify and be specific in your answers. FWIW - from OP's pictures, it looks like he did not have it wired the way that he was sure it was wired. It's plumbing, follow the flow! What amp are you using? Is it wired: Guitar -> HXFX IN -> HXFX SEND[#] -> Amp INPUT -> Amp FX SEND -> HXFX RETURN -> HX FX 1/4" OUT -> Amp FX RETURN Is there an FX Loop Block in the signal chain. Example - OD/Dist>MOD>FX Loop Block(#)>Delay>Reverb Are you SURE that all of your cables are good? Test them anyway.

If you've tried the above, open a support ticket. If you read the entire (long) thread, you'll see that if support can't resolve the issue, they'll have you send it in for repair/replacement. If you just put it in a drawer and wait passively for a fix, you'll be waiting a long time. When you DO get the issue resolved, PLEASE report back. If half the people who posted here did that, this thread would be half as long!

You can use the speaker emulations, which would be sent out with an added mic emulation. OR you could use IRs on Helix (or whatever you're using), OR you could use the IRs on the PC+. You're not confined to a single method.

The USB outs only work when the Helix is the AI. Take a split at the beginning of the signal chain and send it to a separate channel on the Scarlett. OR, if using a wireless with dual outs, take one to a separate channel. Defeats the Auto Impedance feature, as your PUPs will be loaded at 1M. OR get an A/B box to split your signal before Helix. Also defeats the Auto Impedance feature, as most A/B boxes are 1M. OR, either wireless or A/B and don't use FX that require Input Impedance <1M. You can't have everything, but you COULD use Helix as your AI.

For a simple preset, the only difference is that you save a block. On a preset with multiple output blocks, using the Output Block Level saves multiple blocks. Using a Gain Block adds the step of finding and inserting the block. Using the Output Block Level adds the step of messing with the Min/Max settings. Everything has a benefit, and everything has a price. Helix has so many ways of doing everything, we get to pick our poison. A surfeit of options. Opportunities for mixed metaphors......

You get one split per path, and you can't further split a split.

You didn't say which product you're using, but if it's the HX Stomp the equivalent of the Input Pad is called INPUT LEVEL.

Wrong forum. This is where you go if you're serious about suggestions for changes and improvements: https://line6.ideascale.com/a/index Before posting a new idea, please search to see if it's already been proposed. If 100 people vote on the same idea presented 20 different ways, it looks like only 5 people care about it! Also, post your ideas one at a time. I for one NEVER vote for multiple combined suggestions.

It's a signal booster, usually (in that configuration) intended as a clean (doesn't affect amp gain) BOOST for leads. It's under "Volume/Pan". For this purpose it's easier and saves a Block to assign a FS to the Output Block Level with a 3-6db boost.

The standard way to do this is to SEND your L/Mono 1/4", pre cab/ir, out to the FX Return of your amp but, IIRC, the Hot Rod does not have an FX Loop, so the best you can do is to split Path 2 before the cab/ir, go into the guitar input of the HR and set the tone stack to the most pleasing sound you can get. Either method assumes that the cab/ir is last in the signal chain. Or you could just do it without a split if you like the sound of the cab/ir through the HR. The best thing to do is to pick up a cheap FRFR like the Headrush FRFR108 or FRFR112, or really any powered speaker, it's only a stage monitor after all. Lots lighter than a Hot Rod! If you go this way, get a short speaker stand to get the FRFR off the floor.