rd2rk

If you want all 4 tones in one preset, each with 3 possible tunings, that's 12. Since you only have 8 snapshots, and using a Stomp FS only gets you 2 settings (min/max), it's a tricky math problem. Using MIDI I was able to get this to work. If you assign a MIDI CC# to the Interval parameter, sending a Value of 64 = Standard; 62 = -1; 60 = -2. My controller can send either a single message per FS or Toggling messages. Using Toggling messages I used two footswitches, one set to Values of 64/62 to go between Standard and 1/2 step; the other set to send 64/60 for Standard/full step. I THINK the Morningstar controllers can send 3 messages from a single FS using Tap, Double Tap and PRESS&HOLD. Not sure about that though.

The next 10 posts will be really smart people arguing all sorts of technical details on the order of "Not really because IF this THEN that". Do you REALLY want to engage a newbie in a discussion of S/N ratio and bit rates of DAC converters? The easiest thing to do is leave the BIG KNOB at Unity. Get your levels right within the preset. If it sounds good and you've got too much signal at the amp input, turn down the Level at the Output Block. Why confuse the guy with technical gobbledyg00k?

Global Settings>Ins/Outs Page 3 knob 3 assigns which Output is controlled by THE BIG KNOB. Leave THE BIG KNOB at MAX for consistent Output to amp. FOH, whatever. This way you never have to guess where that knob was at when you created the preset and, if sending to FOH, keeps the engineer happy. EDIT: Assigning it to something OTHER than the Output in use disables it (disabled = UNITY GAIN) for that Output.

Guitar>OD pedals>HXFX?>Vox AC30 Input>AC30 FX Send>HXFX?>Strymons>AC30 FX Return Whether you put the HXFX before the amp or in the Amp's FX Loop depends on what FX you're using it for. Modulations usually go in front of the amp, ambient FX in the Loop. But you might like the Volante before the amp, like they did it with Echoplexes before amps had FX Loops. You may prefer certain Mod FX after the amp. No hard and fast rules. Experiment. Find what works best for you. Don't restrict your creative potential by looking for someone else's formula. Be you, and have FUN!

Trying to ignore OP's choice of screen name..... Where you put a Volume Pedal Block totally depends on your use case. Want to increase amp gain? Put it before the amp. Want to do clean swells? Put it last in the chain. Increase ambient FX? Put it after the amp and before the ambient FX. There's no hard and fast rules for this stuff. And FWIW - my physical WAH (535Q) goes in the FX Loop, first in the signal chain. Sounds fine. Try adjusting the FX Loop Send/Return Levels to accommodate your WAH's I/O characteristics.

Answered my own question by looking at the manual. No, the "omniports" can't be used like that. Would require the addition of something like a VDL Control Switcher.

Assuming that this is a mono pedal, you need two 1/4" TS (instrument) cables. In your preset, place the FX Loop L Block wherever you want the Reverb. That's the TIP connector on the stereo SEND jack. That goes to the pedal INPUT. The pedal OUTPUT goes to the L/Mono RETURN. OR you can simply place it between the HXS 1/4" L/Mono Out and the 108. Whichever method is more convenient/sounds best.

Supro - GLOBAL SETTINGS>INS/OUTS Input Pad = OFF 1/4" Outputs = INST Volume Knob Controls = XLR (results in UNITY GAIN at 1/4" L/Mono Out>Supro Input) PREFERENCES Auto Impedance = First Enabled ALL PRESETS Input Block In-Z = AUTO If you're still not getting a hot enough signal to the Supro, increase the Preset Output Block Level. MkV - GLOBAL SETTINGS>INS/OUTS Input Pad = OFF 1/4" Outputs = LINE Send/Return = whichever works best Volume Knob Controls = XLR (results in UNITY GAIN at 1/4" L/Mono Out>MkV FX Return) PREFERENCES Auto Impedance = First Enabled ALL PRESETS Input Block In-Z = AUTO If you're still not getting a hot enough signal to the MkV Input, increase the FX Loop Block SEND Level. If you're still having problems, look at the Gain Staging of your Presets. Pay attention to the Output Meter - when the Output Block is selected it's monitoring the 1/4" Out. When the FX Loop Block is selected it's monitoring the SEND.

Yes, forgot to mention - the HR FRFR112 works GREAT for bass! Essentially the same as the TS312, but no preamp for mics.

I've tried - HR FRFR112 - cheap, OK sounding, but definitely NOT FRFR. QSC/Yamaha DX - much more flexible and FRFR, much more expensive. Tube Amp - Limits you to the sound of whatever the speaker and cabinet sound like. Power amp/tube coloration largely dependent on volume. Studio monitors - the more you pay, the more FRFR they get, but not suitable for use outside a studio environment. So, my answer - Powercab212+. Not perfect either. Maybe someday they'll do an update. Not holding my breath. The YT comparisons of the other VERY EXPENSIVE guitar specific solutions have not impressed me. No PERFECT solution to this dilemma.

Does that do channel switching?

I might have to get one of these to replace my trusty but MASSIVE FCB1010/UNO2. With 2 exp pedals it'd still be half the size. More than twice the price with pedalboard, but prettier too! :-)

No. Save the preset with the vocal chain as a "template" to use when creating your guitar sounds, best you can do.

I think you'll need a MIDI FS to do this. Not cheap. Morningstar MC3 is <>$189. Upside is it'll do most anything else you need.

Helix doesn't have the special mirror function built in, but I wonder if: a) A helix Rack and PoE Hub might be able to power two Helix Controls, and b) The same function that allows having changes made on the Rack to be reflected on a connected Control would work to also reflect changes made from one Control to be reflected on the other also. If so, it could work the same way as the KPA and AXE. You should give L6 support a call, they're really helpful, and if nothing else, the tech might find this an interesting enough question that he'd ask one of the engineers. I'd certainly be interested in the outcome, so do come back here and let us know what you find out!

One definition of PoE is "Power over Ethernet". The Kemper Remote connects via Ethernet Cable to the KPA, and provides both control and power (for the Remote). I think OP is talking about connecting two Remotes to a Hub (probably needs a special Hub due to the power thing), and connecting the Hub to the KPA. Fractal's FC controllers use an XLR cable, and likely would connect to a special XLR mixer. Ableton would send "Scene Specific" MIDI to the main unit in a Rack via USB, and specific on-the-fly changes could then be made via either the performer's floor controller or the backstage controller. The Rack would likely contain two "mirrored" KPA or AXEFX units with some sort of "fail-over" switching system. If this is the case, it would seem possible to use Helix Rack units, which connect to the Helix Controller via Ethernet like the KPA, in the same way. Or, I might still have no idea what he's talking about. OP? EDIT: link to KPA Forum discussion: POE Network with 2 Profilers and 2 remotes - Profiler Remote - Questions and answers - Kemper Profiler Forum (kemper-amps.com)

In an effort to answer your question, I looked in the AXEFXIII manual for "mirror", and found nothing related to your question. What is this called in Fractal land?

Connect to a computer by USB. Be sure that MIDI over USB is enabled. Use a MIDI Monitor to see what is actually being sent when you change Snapshots. If you're getting both the Bank Change CC and the PC# as expected, there's a new parameter in v3.x called WAIT TIME. Some devices require a pause between commands or the second command doesn't register. Try that starting with 2ms and working up. IDK why it would differ Preset vs Snapshot (maybe because a Preset takes longer to load than a Snapshot?), but it's worth a try. I don't have the HXFX (Floor and HXS) or I'd say upload a preset for me to look at.

Ummm....the primary purpose of an AMPLIFIER is to make the signal LOUDER. If the default setting of the MASTER is 10, that means that ITRW, the amplifier DOES NOT HAVE a Master Volume (NMV). Reducing the Master on those amps will affect the way that the Power Amp section responds, which is usually undesirable. The purpose of the Input Gain knob on your Audio Interface is to adjust for differences in Input Levels. The OUTPUT LEVEL Knob on the LT, at MAX, sends a UNITY (0db)signal. That's what you want going to the AI. EDIT: if the signal is just too hot to be adjusted at the AI Input, you've probably got a problem in the Gain Staging of your preset. If the Preset itself is not distorting unpleasantly (digital distortion), you can try reducing the Level at the Output Block. IOW - your equipment is functioning as designed, you just need to learn how to use it. There are many instructional videos on YouTube, and most every AI mftr and DAW producer have IVs on their sites. Sweetwater also has many IVs.

That's a True Bypass pedal, so if it's sitting next to the HXS on your board it shouldn't affect it when it's OFF.

No. One preset does not affect the DSP limits of another preset. For some reason, copy/paste, and even favorites, have this effect when a preset is near it's DSP limit. and not just with the amps/cabs. Just write down the settings and recreate the amp and cab. An annoying problem (bug?), but it's been noted and hopefully they're working on it.

I find myself doing that on some amps, especially the Marshalls. Interestingly, I saw a Pete Thorn video where he showed how he does that with the real amps. Another thing to consider is the physical cab you're using. Some cabs are just darker than others.

No. I'm pretty sure it's been requested on Ideascale, so SEARCH, then VOTE!

I'm going to assume that all of your devices - Stomp, amp, PC - are connected to a quality Surge Suppressor with EMI/RFI filters. That's basic. Since it happens everywhere, even when USB is not connected, Check all of your cables and your guitar for shorts. A cable that was good last week could have been kinked or run over by a chair (chewed on by the cat), your guitar's input could be loose or damaged, a solder joint could be failing, a pot could be bad, you get the idea. S#&t happens. You mentioned headphones, but not other amplification systems. Check that stuff too. Next, think about what changed in your house in the last couple of weeks. New appliances, rheostats, wireless devices, moved routers (should be at least 10 feet away). Having the Stomp too close to your computer or a cell phone can also cause interference. If you live in an apartment, it could even be something new that your neighbor is doing! Not likely, but not impossible. Of course, it could just be a bad PSU. Hard to check that if you don't have a spare, but if all else fails.... Lastly, worst case scenario, your Stomp has a problem. Contact support. Even out of warranty, L6 support has a certain latitude in dealing with device failures not caused by obvious abuse. It's worth a shot.

First, in Global Settings>MIDI/Tempo, set MIDI PC Tx to OFF. This prevents HXFX from automatically sending the PC that corresponds to the selected HXFX Preset. In CommandCenter, select the Snapshot you want to use. Set the first IC (lightning bolt) to the PC you want on the external device. SAVE. Select the next Snapshot you want to use. Repeat the process. Repeat the process on all Snapshots that you want to use. Save the Preset on the Snapshot that you want to load with the Preset. If you have multiple external pedals that you want to control, set each to receive on a separate MIDI Channel, and use an IC for each with the proper MIDI Channel specified. If the device has only one Bank of Presets, you can leave the Bank Commands set to OFF. Otherwise, set the Bank command, usually CC#0 (RTM for your device to determine if it's CC#0 or CC#32), to the Bank# on the device. Example: CC#0 = 0 is usually Bank 1; CC#0 =1 is usually Bank 2, etc.