rd2rk

I knew about that, but it's not available on my Floor either. I'm up against my allotted 32 bits of storage space or I'd include a screenshot :-)

Any stereo amp will do, though you may want to look for one specifically made for use with modelers (Matrix?), or a proper tube amp (Mesa?). You'll probably want one where each channel is at least twice the rating of the cabs to allow clean headroom. Or you could use a pair of mono Class D amps. The T.C Electronics BAM200 is currently in vogue over on TGP. Then just pan one amp LEFT and the other RIGHT, and take the amp input from the appropriate Helix Output, probably set to LINE level. EDIT: Here's a demo preset. Note the Pan settings in the Output Blocks. npoguitar.hlx

OOPS! Wrong thread!

Interesting. My versions match, and I don't have that option either. I thought I read somewhere (I know, real specific) that it wasn't working right, so they pulled it till a future update? I wonder what version Steve Sterlacci was on when he made that video? OP - maybe re-watch the video and see if you can catch what version he's on?

First thing that appears, far left, should be the SETLIST screen. Once you select a SETLIST the Presets in that setlist should appear to the right. If not, perform a Factory Reset. That will restore the default setlists, Factory 1 and 2.

Attach an example preset and I'll test it with my amp.

The key is to have the Helix Preset's output level correctly set so that the loudest notes put the Input LED in the yellow with brief spikes of red when you really dig in,. As to the "muffled" thing, I can only call "operator error". The output level on the PC+ needs to be turned up a bit, it's not a bedroom amp, but once you get it turned up, the highs on mine will rip your head off if you set up your presets at a bedroom level. Elsewhere on this forum I've discussed in painful detail the "L6 Link/HF Driver" bug. Specifically, the PC+ has 5 main operating modes. Ideally, they should work like this: FLAT FRFR - HF Driver ON FLAT LF Flat - HF Driver OFF FLAT LF Raw - HF Driver OFF USER IR - HF Driver ON SPEAKER - HF Driver OFF EDIT: From the manual - SPEAKER MODE PARAMETERS Intended to respond like a real guitar speaker for a traditional "amp-in-the-room" experience. This mode applies different tonal characteristics of the selected speaker model to the system's coaxial driver, with the following adjustable parameters. IOW - What makes a Speaker Mode sound like the speaker is the EQ applied TO THE COAXIAL (HF) Driver, NOT the LF Driver as I previously thought. END EDIT When using L6 Link to switch modes, the PC+ can get "out of sync(?)" with L6 Link, causing the HF Driver to be ON when it should be OFF. The cure for this is to reboot the PC+. Most inconvenient at a gig. Alternatively, you can add a MIDI cable and use CommandCenter Instant commands to FORCE the HF Driver to be ON (CC#5 Value 113 = 0db) or OFF (CC#5 Value 0). PITA to have to configure on every preset. L6 steadfastly refuses to acknowledge this or any other bug in the Powercab, nor have they made any commitment to updates or bug fixes. Since the last update was two years ago, it appears possible that we may have an orphaned product, so it's good to know the workarounds. Enjoy your new toy!

The intended use for Global EQ is to adjust for the acoustic peculiarities of different rooms/venues. It would be nice to be able to save Global EQ settings, and it has been requested on Ideascale. Do a search and VOTE. As @amsdenj said, start by getting as close to your desired tone with the amp, speaker and mic choices. With the stock cabs, the default cuts usually work fine to cut boominess and fizz, and mic choice and distance are what to look at before messing with cuts. IRs provide many (sometimes too many) choices of mic distance and placement. It's a rabbit hole, but after a while you get to know which mics and placements you prefer. For a primer on how various mics/distances/placements affect your tone, read this: Hone Your Tone.pdf (digitaloceanspaces.com) EQs within a preset are best used to fine tune a preset beyond what you can get with the amp and cab settings, or to fine tune the response of effects like distortions.

Wrong forum. This is where you go if you're serious about suggestions for changes and improvements: https://line6.ideascale.com/a/index Before posting a new idea, please search to see if it's already been proposed. If 100 people vote on the same idea presented 20 different ways, it looks like only 5 people care about it! Also, post your ideas one at a time. I for one NEVER vote for multiple combined suggestions.

Disclaimer: I don't own an AXE. Based on interactions in another forum with AXE users, the following are the MIDI commands which should, by default, get the results you desire. There may be configuration steps within the AXE that you need to take to enable MIDI communication, not least of which is ensuring that both Helix and AXE are communicating on the same MIDI Channel. Default for Helix is Channel 1 and, IIRC, AXE is either Channel 1 or OMNI (ALL Channels). You'll have to check the AXE Manual for specifics. The AXE has 3 banks of 128 Presets numbered 0-127. The Banks are numbered (for MIDI purposes) 0-2. The Scenes are numbered 0-7. In order to call a Preset within a Bank and a Scene within that preset, you need to send 3 MIDI commands: Helix Instant Command 1 = Bank/Program - CC#0 Value 0 (Bank 1); Value 1 (Bank 2); Value 2 (Bank 3) + Preset (MIDI Program Change) #0-127 Helix Instant Command 2 = MIDI CC - CC#34 Value (0-7 = Scenes 1-8) In Helix, the Instant Commands are sent when the Preset loads, and with each Snapshot change. Once a command is sent, it will not send again until a different command is used. So, if when the Helix Preset loads, you call AXE Bank 1 Preset #65 Scene #3: Instant Command 1 - CC#0 Value 0 + PC#65 + Instant Command 2 - CC#34 Value 2 You could call a different AXE Scene within that AXE Preset by changing the CC#34 Value in that Helix Snapshot. The other Values won't be sent again until a Snapshot specifies different values. Likewise, to change the other Values (different AXE Bank/Preset/Scene, just specify the new values within that Snapshot. If any of the commands FAIL, add WAIT TIME to create a pause before the failed command is sent - sometimes a device needs a moment to execute a command before another can be received. The attached example preset does the following (I hope!): On Load, Snapshot 1: AXE Bank 2; Preset 65; Scene 4 Snapshot 2: Bank and Preset remain the same, Scene 8 is called Snapshot 3: AXE Bank 1; Preset 3; Scene 2 Try it! Let me know if it works. NOTE: All of the above assumes Factory Default settings. If you've mucked about in the settings, you may need to restore the AXE version of "GLOBAL" and "DEFAULT" settings. IOW - you may need to RTM! If there's no AXE Preset in the destination specified, it MAY fail. Check that first! OldOkie62.hlx

I stand corrected! Another feature I never used.

No need to apologize. You can't find it because it isn't there! At least, not in SNAPSHOT or PRESET Mode. In STOMP Mode, using CommandCenter, you can assign a Footswitch to a Snapshot or a Preset, and set the color of the LED Ring. On the device (vs HX Edit), in CommandCenter, once you've made the assignment, you use CUSTOMIZE (press knob 6) and then SWITCH LED (knob 5).

The last PC212+ update 8/13/2019: Known Issues: Recording USB Audio from Powercab 212 Plus may have audible artifacts when connected to a Helix via L6 Link. Remote control messages to 'Speaker 2' are not received when using 2 Powercab 212 Plus devices daisy-chained via L6 Link with Helix. I get the feeling we're being screwed. L6 Link doesn't work as advertised, they can't fix it, and they don't want to hear it. I wonder, if you took them in to a certified Service Center and demonstrated the problem, THEN would they believe you?

"Preset Levelling" is one of the most common question raised with modelers, and one of the most difficult to accomplish. My suggestion, based on the specifics of your question, is to assign the LEVEL in the Output Block to Snapshots.

Global Settings>Ins/Outs>Digital Output needs to be set to AES/EBU.

Delete that preset and start over. Nobody can troubleshoot a random problem or a corrupted preset.

Consistently? Every time? On every preset? Attach the preset. If it does that on mine, I'm interested in how you made it do that.

I tried. IIRC, it was about 2 inches over. I was told that it MIGHT make it on, but no guarantees. Fortunately, my ride was still at the airport, so I gave it to her to take home for me rather than risk having to put it in the baggage hold. PITA!

Wrong forum. This is where you go if you're serious about suggestions for changes and improvements: https://line6.ideascale.com/a/index Before posting a new idea, please search to see if it's already been proposed. If 100 people vote on the same idea presented 20 different ways, it looks like only 5 people care about it!

Depends. Does the effect have a button? Then yes. Maybe. Do you want to control the effect in combination with other effects? That requires Snapshots, maybe MIDI (if it has MIDI), and inserting the effect in an FX Loop, so maybe. Depends entirely on your specific use case.

All of the above, plus - If the 108 (which is notoriously "bassy") is on the floor, sideways like a stage monitor, the bass response is amplified by the speaker "coupling" (google it) with the floor. Also, the HF Driver is designed for horizontal dispersion, and in that position, the dispersion is vertical, bouncing off the floor and ceiling. Get a SHORT speaker stand or at least a bar stool and mount the 108 vertically at around chest height.

Thank you (Blush). However, sometimes the Powercab baffles me. I just edited my posts in the "My thoughts...." thread over on TGP as follows: EDIT: I was wrong about being able to use MIDI to add HF Driver to taste in Speaker Mode. Although PC Edit reflects the change, it doesn't really work! @Digital Igloo @Frank Ritchotte FIX THE POWERCAB/PC EDIT BUGS! PLEASE!

The apparent "stereo separation" in the PC212 is accomplished with acoustic trickery. It tricks your ears. It's not really shooting sound waves out into the room in stereo, so room placement in regard to proximity to walls is not as critical as with real stereo speakers, though, because of the rear porting, it should probably be around 18 inches from the wall directly behind it It SOUNDS (at 200% setting) like the speakers are 6-8 ft apart. As with all stereo systems, there's a "sweet spot" where it sounds best. That's around 5-6ft away. Mine is about 2 ft from a corner between the wall where my "studio" (desk, monitors, computer, synth) is located, and a sliding glass door (apartment, about 15 ft wide) and sounds like it's in a wide open space. It's spooky hearing a sound come from a space that obviously isn't there! IOW - you should be fine, as long as you understand the nature of the tech.

Yes. Beware of grounding and phasing issues.

Sorry, I explained that poorly. The Flat Output level is at 0db because when you load an IR in a Helix Preset, it's already at -18db, and that's reflected in the IR Block. However, the USER IR Output Level should be at -18db because the IR is on the Powercab and that's what it reflects, and the SPEAKER output should be at -15db because that balances the Speaker output against the IR/User IR levels. At least, I think that's the logic. That's the way it seems on my PC212+. Unless there's something different about the PC112+. I'm reporting what happens with my PC212+, and I'm assuming that it should be the same. Maybe take this question to the Powercab thread, put "PC112+ Flat/Speaker/User IR Levels" in the thread title, and ask there.