rd2rk

4cm: Guitar>HXS Input L/Mono>HXS Send L (TRS to Dual 1/4" Mono TIP=L)>Amp Input Amp FX Loop Send>HXS Return L/Mono>HXS L/Mono Out>Amp FX Return Global Settings>Ins/Outs>Return Type = RETURN Signal Chain - Input Block>PRE FX like distortion>FX Loop L Block>POST FX like delay> Output Block Main L/R If you want to use HXS Amps OR your amp's PREAMP (switchable), add the HXS amp adjacent to the FX Loop Block. Assign both to a Footswitch (or use Snapshots) and SAVE with one block, ON and the other OFF. Your amp's MASTER VOLUME (if it has one) may or may not have any effect when the PREAMP is out of the circuit, depends how the amp is designed (Master PRE or POST FX Loop).

Just clarifying for anyone who interpreted your post as meaning that it would ONLY work with a momentary CC.

This is almost correct. While you CAN use a momentary controller, it's not necessary. A normal CC message with a single value, OR a toggling CC with identical values will both work. Also, i think OP wanted to know if assigning MIDI to a block's bypass would preclude also using Snapshots for that purpose, and the answer is NO. When you use a Snapshot for bypass you're not ASSIGNING Snapshots to the bypass, so it doesn't violate the rule about one controller per block. BTW - I just tested all this using my FCB1010/UNO board.

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Support got back to me on this. As phil_m suspected, timing. The Instant Commands are sent simutaneously (vs consecutively), and the preset isn't yet loaded when the CC is received. The workaround is to save the preset multiple times with different snapshots as defaults. Not a great fix if you're short on preset slots on a HXS, but it is what it is. https://line6.ideascale.com/a/dtd/Loading-a-preset-and-a-snapshot-via-midi/1007491-23508?submitted=1 I put it up on Ideascale if you want to vote on it. I give it Lottery odds, but you never know. Could be as easy as adding a checkbox to Command Center and code like: If Checkbox W=1 Then Send IC1 Wait 10 Send IC2 etc Or not......

As mentioned, I'm a PC guy so I don't have Logic. Or maybe I have more Logic (just kidding!). In Most DAWs you load your VST on an Audio track, then use a MIDI track to bring in the MIDI from whatever interface you're using and set the output to whatever the Audio track is called, or to the VST itself, depending on the DAW. Typically the MIDI track has to be Record Enabled (ARMED) with the Track Monitor/Input Echo button ON. If that's not working for you, you may have to find someone who knows Logic.

Wet and Dry outputs are separate signals on separate circuits. This cross-talk thing is like the boogeyman under your bed. Let it go, it's causing you unwarranted agita!

I think he's talking about summing two signals into one, or splitting a mono signal into two. The Stomp FX loop is sending separate signals to TIP and RING, each of which are going to separate Mono TS jacks. Think of it this way. It's the same level signal as the L/R channels of your CD player send to your Stereo amp thru molded together, mostly REALLY CHEAP, RCA cables.

Where did you learn this? I suspect that context would be important here. As to whether you should worry about it, no. Insert cables (TRS to dual TS) have been around and used in professional sound applications forever. Just buy good quality cables and don't sweat it..

Another fun USB anecdote. My "studio" Laptop has 10 USB devices connected to it: Helix Powercab Scarlett 18i20 Synth FCB1010 Korg nanoKontrol Akai APC mini Printer External HD Wireless mouse I was having a problem with USB ground noise (surprise!). The synth and the FCB1010 require 2 way communication, so they're connected by a pair of $5 eBay DIN to USB cables. the others are connected using whatever USB cables were in my BIG BOX of CABLES. I had the Helix and the Scarlett plugged into two of the three USB A ports on the laptop. I had a 7 port Amazon Basics Hub plugged into the third. The laptop also has a USB C port, into which I had a USB C Hub with a 3.0A and a 2.0A port. The external HD was on the 3.0 and I had the Akai, and at some point in the troubleshooting process, all the other devices other than the Helix and Scarlett, on the 2.0. I tried everything, swapping every device to every port, including a USB isolator which I applied to every device in turn (which made it worse!). I hadn't tried the Amazon Hub into the USB C Hub because A) I suspected the Power supply was noisy and causing the problem, and B) I was sure it would confuse the Windows USB driver. Last resort, I tried it. BINGO! No more noise. Fired up Reaper, everything worked as it should. Final kicker. The Helix is connected with a right angle adapter into a 10ft Amazon Basics USB extension. The Powercab is connected with a 6ft USB cable that came with my first M-Audio AI nearly 15 years ago, into another 10ft Amazon Basics USB extension. I've flashed the FW on both, no problem. Moral of the story - USB is wonderful, weird and unpredictable.

Which one of us missed the sarcasm emoji? Oh, that's right! This forum STILL hasn't fixed the emojis! My point was that NOBODY gives any meaningful specs for USB cables. It's ALWAYS a crap shoot. Data transmission speed and "better/multiple layers of shielding" is as good as it gets. Some of us use whatever cable is handy and have never had a problem, though getting over 15ft can cause issues. It would seem that some computers are more finicky than others. My laptops (ancient Gateway i5 and HP i7-7500) are thankfully indiscriminate when it comes to USB cables.

Out of curiosity, I was searching online for USB cables to see what, if any, specs mfrs offered that might guide a decision on WHAT's THE BEST. Best Buy's Magnolia Hi-fi snobs department offers a 10ft USB cable for $599.99. No real specs. I think I need 10!

Not at all. It was a simple question. You might be able to tell a Fender from a Vox, but I think that has more to do with the whole amp than just the tubes. There aren't a lot of amps that use this tube switching thing - /13, Egnater - and if it was that big a deal I think more mfrs would be into it. For instance, I think there'd be more of a difference between EL34 and 6L6 or KT66. IIRC, only Mesa has ever done that. Anyhow, I told him where to go for the definitive answer, so it wasn't pure snark. OK, just a little.... :-)

In that case, the RL acts as the loop. See attached. I have the pre amp FX before the split, but they can also go after since no Path A signal is going to Path B. There's other ways too, but the Demo preset is just a simple example of the principle. The main idea is the the signal from the RL is independent of the signal to the amp, and the post amp FX and IR are between the Return from the RL and the output to the computer. You don't even need the IR, you can use IRs in ITB. Guitar>HX Input>A/B Split 100% Path A>Path A>1/4" L/Mono Out>Amp Input>RL Line Out>HX Return L/Mono on Path B>Path B Output Send L/Mono>Computer. Attached is a further refinement on the previous attachment to reflect what you're asking for. Please delete your post in the other thread, as your requirements are different from his. borz666C.hlx

Does it sound like L6 modeled the 6v6 or the EL84? If you can't tell, does it matter? Since you haven't gotten a definitive answer here, I suggest that you go over to The Gear Page Digital and Modeling forum (where L6 engineer guys hang out, they're rarely here) and ask straight up "Which tube was modeled?"

Connect the amp using the 4cm method. Take the Line Out from the RL to a second Helix Return on a parallel path with the IR and a separate Output Block and send that to the computer. Guitar>HX IN>Send 1>Amp In>Amp FX Send>HX Return 1>Path A>HX Out L/Mono>Amp FX Return RL Line Out>HX Return 2 on Path B with IR>Path B Output Block set to USB 3/4 or 5/6>Computer At the Path B A/B Split Pan the signal hard 100% Path A so that no signal enters Path B at that point The only signal on Path B comes from the RL This assumes that you're monitoring your playing through a cab and using the IR for recording only with the Track Monitor (Input Echo) OFF. Demo preset attached borz666.hlx

Never mind. I re-flashed the FW and that did the trick!

I'm selling my PC112+ (got a PC212+). I loaded it up with commercial IRs that I don't want to sell with the cab. I don't have a blank slot to copy/paste. I suspect that's the only way, other than to restore from an original backup (which I didn't do). Can someone with an un-modded IR list (Allure IRs only is OK) make a backup and attach it so I can restore and solve the problem that way? OR anyone know if L6 has such a thing somewhere?

I'm selling my PC112+ (got a PC212+). I loaded it up with commercial IRs that I don't want to sell with the cab. I don't have a blank slot to copy/paste. I suspect that's the only way, other than to restore from an original backup (which I didn't do). Can someone with an un-modded IR list (Allure IRs only is OK) make a backup and attach it so I can restore and solve the problem that way? OR anyone know if L6 has such a thing somewhere?

So, it required special USB cables to get it to work on your system, but everything is now working? If so, GREAT! I have 8 USB devices (plus the wireless mouse) plugged into my studio laptop with assorted cables from my BIG BOX OF CABLES. I was just looking at them and realized that one of the cables goes back more than 10 years to my first M-Audio AI! I guess I'm just lucky to have such an accommodatingly non-finicky system, and you, not so much. :-) This digital world of ours is sometimes wonderful, and sometimes a royal PITA! Rock on!

Most of your lengthy post simply serves (for me) to confuse the issue. My Helix (both Floor and Stomp) connect directly to my laptop(s) (running Win10) USB ports and I have NO problem with using HXEdit and a DAW (or standalone amp sim) at the same time, AND with a Powercab also connected AND running Powercab Edit at the same time as HXEdit and a DAW, AND with an external AI (Scarlett) thrown into the mix. I'm on v3.01 FW and v3.0 HXEdit. Nor did I have a problem with any previous FW or HXEdit versions, or with any (and I have used many) USB cables except when I used too long a cable (6ft plus 15ft extension). I have never had to jump through the hoops you've been dealing with. One of the problems that some users have encountered has to do with the Boot drive NOT being Drive 0. This has only been a problem on a certain type of high-end gaming MB. Maybe if you describe the HW you're using that might help.

Also, at 128samples you're getting over 20ms RTL. My laptop is similar to yours, well optimized, and I can use 64samples for just over 10ms RTL. That's with Helix as AI. Using my 2nd gen Scarlett I get around 7.6ms RTL.

Glad it's working. I listed some of the major optimizations, but there are others you should look into if you have any other problems.

I don't have a Nextone, but I do have a multimeter. Attached preset makes the following assumptions based on the Nextone Manual: CLEAN - NONE CLEAN BOOST - 2 LEAD - 1 LEAD BOOST - 1 and 2 I ran through a dozen snapshot changes and couldn't get a fail. Blaze591.hlx

Make sure that you are running the same version of HXEdit as the hardware. Currently the latest FW is v3.01 and HXEdit v3.0. Composite Device is a MAC thing. Windows can only handle one ASIO Driver at a time unless you get lucky using ASIO4ALL. Someone will no doubt jump in and recommend that, I don't. EDIT: If you're connecting thru a hub don't. If using a desktop, use the rear MB connectors. Don't use a 3.0 port. I have a 10 foot cable on my Floor, no problem, but I had trouble with the regular cable and a 10 foot extension. If I think of more....