rd2rk

Since you deleted this post: Hi rd2rk! I'm having issues with the file you've uploaded: i tried on a mac and on windows, and when I save the syx. into the fcb it won't work, ( even if the fcb lights blinks when the syx is uploaded ) and I've noticed it's because the syx file won't change the settings, preset or anything else. Maybe is an issue of my own fcb, but can I ask you to please reupload the file? I'm on stock 2.4.1 firmware . Thanks a lot I assume that you figured out how to load and save the sysex?

Since I normally use my Helix Floor or my Scarlett 18i20 for this, and couldn't believe that there's a difference between Floor MIDI OR Scarlett and HXS, I took my HXS into the studio where my eDrums are and tested it. There is no difference. There is as little MIDI latency going through the HXS as through the Floor, and that's as little as can be. It's EXACTLY the same as if I connect through my Scarlett 18i20. If you're experiencing MIDI latency with the HXS, there's some other problem in your setup. It CERTAINLY is NOT causing OP's problem with dropped notes! EDIT: Tested with Win10/i7-7500/Reaper/EZDrummer Second Edit: While I had it set up I also tested with a MIDI KB and VST Synth. Again, no problem.

What is it EXACTLAY that you expect to happen when you do EXACTLY what? When you BYPASS the HXS (put it into BYPASS Mode) the signal goes straight from the INPUT to the OUTPUT (BYPASSING the signal chain/FX) and, in your case straight into the amp's FX Return. You are NOT shutting off the signal. When you BYPASS the FX Loop Block the signal goes from Input to Output and through all FX in between, BYPASSING your amp's preamp section. If I'm still not understanding, please attach a sample preset and detail what it is you're doing and what is your expectation. Again, 4cm wiring, simplified: Guitar>HXS Input L/Mono>HXS Send L (TS cable TIP=L)>Amp Input Amp FX Loop Send>HXS Return L/Mono>HXS L/Mono Out>Amp FX Return The only way I can see for a separate DRY signal to be heard would be if the amp's FX Loop were PARALLEL instead of the more common SERIAL FX Loop. When that is the case, there is usually a BLEND knob, which you said there isn't. I was unable to find a manual for that amp. If you have it in PDF form, please attach it (if it isn't too big).

LOL! We should start calling that RubyTopaz syndrome!

That he went straight to insulting my 92 year old Mother pretty much says all I need to know about him. SOOOO looking forward to his future posts, bound to be a ton o' fun!

Nope. Nor can you copy over them with a blank slot if you've filled all the slots like I did. Only way I found (and what I did for the sale) was to do a re-install of the FW. I've since discovered that if you EXPORT an EMPTY.wav BEFORE you fill up all the slots, you can then IMPORT it into a slot and, by repetition, clear all of the slots. AARGH! I know from your posts over on TGP that you have (had?) a PC212. Still have it? Still liking it? LOVING mine!

Two guys saying "um...err...I think....maybe..." because neither, apparently, has any idea what impedance is actually about. If something in that babble solved some problem they had in their heads, I'm happy for them, but they sure didn't provide much information, and, to the extent that impedance has anything to do with "rubbery slippage" (which sounds more related to birth control than guitar tone or feel) totally left out the most important development in 3.0(1), the Global "Auto-In Z" Preference setting, which fixes the problem of where impedance (pickup loading) happens in the signal chain. I fear that this video is only going to further confuse people on this subject. The important things to know: 1) If you set the IN-Z setting in the Input Block to AUTO, AND in Global Settings>Preferences you set Auto In-Z to ENABLED, then the FIRST ACTIVE block in the signal chain determines how the pickups are loaded, whether there's the high end roll-off that the low-impedance blocks expect for "authentic" tone from the effect. 2) If you're using a wireless transmitter, it's irrelevant, as your pickups are always loaded at 1M. Even though some wireless units have a "cable length" switch that supposedly mimics this effect, it's not the same - static with all pickup types, and ALWAYS ON. To show how unimportant this whole impedance thing is to anyone who's not a KNOWLEDGABLE tone purist, if you watch many Rig Rundowns, you'll see MANY top pros raving about their vintage Tube Screamers that are either buried two or three effects deep on their boards, or they're using wireless, and/or have buffers/buffered effects in their signal chains before the TS. Rubbery slippage....rubbery slippage.....Sorry, just thinking the words makes me giggle like a 13 year old......

I'm not sure what you mean by "a delay or reverb block in the FX Loop "? All of the blocks BEFORE the Amp/FX Loop Block are BEFORE the Amp/FX Loop Block, all of the blocks AFTER the Amp/FX Loop Block are AFTER the Amp/FX Loop Block, and regardless of whether you bypass the Amp or the FX Loop, all of the blocks, before and after, are always in the signal chain.

In addition to what cruisinon2 said, Single coil guitars are the worst. That's why HUMBUCKERS were invented. Start by engaging the noisegate on the input block. Turn it up until the noise (when not playing) goes away.

Make sure that you are running HXEdit v3.0. Perform a Factory Reset.

I assume that you meant the 5-pin MIDI DIN port, since Helix is not a USB HOST and shouldn't work at all plugging into the USB port. The Helix BASE channel is irrelevant (and FWIW OMNI is always a bad idea), since what ever comes in the IN port from your keyboard goes out the OUT/THRU port on it's original channel. Set your Roland to a specific channel, unused by Helix or anything else, and set your Reaper Track to receive on THAT channel. Another thing to look at is the total combined length of your MIDI cables, their age and condition, and maybe use some non-lubricated contact cleaner on the cable end that connects to the ancient Roland. Squirt some cleaner on the connector and work it in and out of the socket a few times. DO NOT squirt the cleaner INTO the Roland socket!

Please post your address. Me and a few thousand of my friends would like to come over and "help" you with your prank call project.

I'm with cruisinon2. Awful idea.

After you've done what DD suggested, get back to the PA and, using the board's Channel Input Level Knobs, if you can't get the clip indicator to light, then you definitely have a problem. It may be as simple as not having enough Output level on your presets. This is something that often trips up Powercab users.

The advantage to doing it the way I suggested is that: A) once you've found the balance point, you can use the Output knob as a Master Volume B) you can use Helix amps in place of your amp's preamp for a wider choice of tones. Just use the Channel Volume on the Helix amp to level the difference when doing that.

The L6 development folks don't hang out here much, so don't expect a meaningful response. Take this question over to The Gear Page Digital and Modeling forum where they DO hang out. I've asked this question there a couple of times, no response. But the more people who ask, who knows. Also, keep in mind that L6 has never been big on talking much about what's in development. There ARE some known bugs, so at the very least there SHOULD be a bug-fix update planned.

Yes. I take a pair of Outs from my 18i20 to my PC212. Sounds great. Before I got the PC212 I had a PC112+. Stereo is better, but the PC112+ sounded good too.

Here's a sample preset to show how it's done. Euripedes.hlx

If the amp has only a single VOLUME knob and no other OUTPUT LEVEL control, then when your FX Loop is BYPASSED or the HXS is in BYPASS MODE the signal is going straight into the Power Amp which is producing the full 50 watts. That's LOUD! You can try connecting the FX Loop Bypass Footswitch (or Snapshot) to the Output Block Level so that when the FX Loop is OFF, the Output Block Level is low enough to compensate.

Use USB 3/4 for your DAW. That's the processed signal. USB 5/6 gives the UN processed signal for re-amping with Native. In the Output Block, set the LEVEL to -120db (full left/ OFF). The signal from your DAW bypasses the signal chain to the 1/2 Outputs.

Cream, Herald, Bayou and Dino are replacement speakers offered by their mfrs, aren't generally associated with specific amps, and therefore not likely to have been used by L6 to model any of their cabs. Natural is the actual custom speaker in the Powercab with no "special sauce". To research which Mesa amps used which speakers, go to the Mesa website and check out which speakers were in which of the combo versions. IIRC, they were mostly C90 and V30, but a custom version of the V30. The PC modeled V30 is almost certainly the stock Celestion version, probably of British Mfr.. The Helix Cab is PROBABLY based on whatever Mesa used, but only L6 knows FOR SURE. In any case, the Helix Cab version of a GB (Green) or V30 (Vintage) is not likely to sound like the Powercab version unless you're listening to BOTH through an EXTERNAL FRFR speaker with it's input taken from the Powercab OUTPUT set to a 57 mic X" off the cone. That ASSUMES that they used the same EQ scheme on the Powercab as in the Helix Cab with 57 X" back. Probably not.

Define "bypassing". If you mean with the HXS in BYPASS mode, your signal is going directly from the L/MONO INPUT to the L/MONO OUTPUT and from there to the amp's FX RETURN. If turning down the MASTER on the amp doesn't lower the level, that means that the amp's MASTER is PRE FX LOOP. Since the signal is returning to the amp AFTER the FX Loop, the MASTER would have no effect. A single TS cable will do. Return to RETURN L/MONO. If you also need to use the Right FX Loop, then a TRS to dual mono cable is required. No, this is how it's done. To do it like that would be a waste of one of your 8 available blocks, to no purpose.

I didn't say that, I said "...I guarantee the guitar he's using in that video is loaded with humbuckers, probably hi-output if not active." But I think you got the point. Different guitar, different pickups, different sound.

Yes, yours sounds comparatively thin. Your guitar is loaded with P90s. Single coil pickups. Eric is a metal guy, and while I don't remember what his favorite guitar is, he's an EVH fan, and I guarantee the guitar he's using in that video is loaded with humbuckers, probably hi-output if not active. Your guitar is NOT going to sound like that. Bottom line here. There's nothing wrong with your Helix. If you're set on duplicating a sound from a record or a YT vid, you're setting yourself up to be disappointed. Even if you have EXACTLY the same gear as the guy in the video, you won't get the exact tone. If you want to be even close, you at least need to use a similar guitar with similar pickups. For instance, I have a PRS Custom 24 (set-neck, double cutaway, mahogany with carved maple top, HFS (ceramic HB) bridge PU) and an Ibanez ARX140 (set neck, double cutaway, mahogany with carved mahohany top, Duncan JB (a hot wound Alnico V HB) in the bridge). These are similar guitars, but sound totally different. I used to have a PRS with P90s. Not even close to either one! You REALLY need to learn to use the tonestack and EQs to compensate for everything from your fingers to the room you're in. There's a saying - "A good craftsman never blames his tools". The sound you're looking for is in there, like a statue waiting to be carved from a block of stone. NOTE: Hitting your Helix with a hammer will NOT help! Lastly, I recommend that you watch some of Jason Sadites' Helix videos. Don't try for his exact tones. Apply his methods to getting YOUR tones.

It doesn't sound bad to me, just different. Learn to use the amp's Tonestack and HX EQ blocks, as I'm sure that "certain YouTuber" knows how to do, make sure you're using the same guitar and HX cabs/mics or IRs that the YouTuber is using, apply the same POST processing that the YouTuber might be using (a link to the YT video you're referencing would be helpful - don't be afraid of lawyers) then apply the same sort of compression that YT adds to EVERY video....... Eventually, you'll find a sound that's BETTER than the one you're referencing.