rd2rk

Eating popcorn emoji.....

Are the panning and level settings set properly at the Split, Mix and Output Blocks? Are both Loops configured the same (LINE) in Globals? Do all the cables on the non-functional side test GOOD? What happens if you switch the cables - Helix Left to Right Amp (from Left); Helix Right to Left Amp (from Right)?

If you're using a gen 1 Scarlett, there was a headroom problem that was resolved in gen 2. I'm not sure how the channel gain works on those (I have an 18i20), but if it's like mine, 0 (all the way left/counter-clockwise) is 0db/UNITY. Try the lowest setting. You can also try lowering the Volume knob on your guitar. If you're using active pickups you might just be too hot (if gen1) for the Scarlett's preamp.

Are you hearing a 60 cycle hum or a high pitched kind of a squeal?

I've never noticed anything like you described. As an experiment I set up a Jazz Rivet (cleanest amp in the box) with a Room Reverb (because you add reverb). I then cycled through all of the MONO delays, playing with the mix level as I strummed a chord. While the repeats on all of them sound slightly different (as would be expected). None of them changed the fundamental sound in any way that I could detect. I also tried adding a Send, and that had no noticeable effect either. I'm not saying that you're imagining things, just that I don't hear it. If you attach a sample preset which demonstrates what you're talking about I'll have a look at it.

Unless you shoot yourself in the foot by raising the recording level in your DAW.

You asked a simple question, I gave the simple answer. Here's the full fat answer: If you're leaving it in reference mode all the time, then there's no need for L6 Link, and therefore no need for the more expensive 110ohm cable. If you change your mind and decide that you want to be able to control the Stagesource's settings from Helix (vs just sending Audio), then you'll need L6 Link, and therefore you need the 110ohm cable. Horses for courses, right tool for the job and all that. Of course, if you want to keep all of your options open, you should get the 110ohm cable!

Snapshot Bypass pertains to the Bypass Status of a Block. It doesn't prevent parameter changes to the Block. Since you have the Snapshot Edit set to RECALL and Snapshot Reselect set to RELOAD, I suspect that's the problem. IIRC, Snapshot Reselect is used to re-load the Snapshot in it's saved configuration to discard multiple on-the-fly changes made while in the Snapshot. I'm not certain what the interaction would be in your case, but change Snapshot Edit to DISCARD and see if that fixes it.

Get matched speakers and use the Helix to send differently eq'd signals through different amps and IRs Left and Right. Eliminate the variables at the final audio reproduction stage by using the Helix to do what it was designed to do.

You want the lower recorded signal to allow headroom for reamping and additional processing in your DAW.

Why not just get another Stagesource? That's your simplest solution. The only reasons I can see for you to get a Powercab is if you think you might take it out to play with others, and you're SURE you like the sound of the emulated cabs. And it's lighter. Otherwise, get another Stagesource and have a balanced stereo system.

Less latency due to the elimination of the AD/DA conversion.

I'm with HonestOpinion on restoring the Global Settings. I run my eDrums on CH10 Thru my Helix on CH1 with MIDI THRU ON into PC112+ (not using L6 Link, sending MIDI with CommandCenter to control the Powercab) with MIDI THRU ON and into my Scarlett 18i20 so the eDrums control EZDrummer in Reaper. All works fine.

New user of what???

Helix does not have an internal amplifier. To use it direct you need powered speakers. To use it with guitar cabs you need an external amplifier. Duncan Powerstage amps, Quilter, any PA amp (not optimal) or the various tube poweramps. A guitar head with an effects loop allows you to send the 1/4" out to the effects loop return. Of course, you're always going to sound like that power amp through those speakers, since you probably don't want to use cabs/IRs on Helix when going that way. Using cabs/IRs is what powered FRFR speakers like the Headrush FRFR108/112 or L6 Powercabs are for..

I own every major amp sim. Just updated TH3 to THU, Amplitube 4 to AT5 MAX. Latest version of S-Gear. They all sound great, and are lots of fun. Know what I jam on at my desk? My HX Stomp. My Floor lives in my "Studio" (the living room) with my PC112+. Sometimes I play those amp sims. They sound GREAT through my studio monitors (vs the bookshelf system in the "office" (kitchen/diningroom)). Mostly I play through my Helix.

Assuming that your computer has enough HP to run Native (which requires a DAW or VST Host) at low latency (which also requires you to optimize for Audio whatever OS you're running): AND assuming that all you need to do is play guitar (not also concurrently bass, synths, eDrums, etc), you need a simple Audio Interface. A 2nd or 3rd gen Scarlett Solo is pretty cheap (<>$100) and works great - my 2nd gen 18i20 gets 7.6ms RTL in Reaper on an i7-7500/16gb at 48k/64spls. There's lots of other possibilities, and I'm sure everyone who sees this post will jump on with THEIR favorite $500-1000 AI, but even a recent model Behringer will serve your purpose. As far as TONE goes, just make sure the AI has a 1M impedance guitar input. The higher quality the preamps and converters the better it will sound (thus the price difference between a Behringer and a UA), but unless you're doing SERIOUS RECORDING, and have the MYTHICAL GOLDEN EARS, for practicing at your desk the ROI between $100 and $1000 will be negligible.

Good idea, wrong forum. This is where you go if you're serious about suggestions for changes and improvements: https://line6.ideascale.com/a/index Before posting a new idea, please search to see if it's already been proposed. If 100 people vote on the same idea presented 20 different ways, it looks like only 5 people care about it! Also, post your ideas one at a time. I for one NEVER vote for multple combined suggestions.

Assign your footswitch to the Output Block level. Use the MIN/MAX settings to go from -120db to 0db (or whatever your preference is).

If you find a powered USB hub that works for you, please report back. I have a similar noise problem if I have both my Helix (direct to the laptop) and my Powercab (connected to my powered hub) connected at the same time. Annoying.

I'm sure you must have tried this, it's not rocket science, but I have to ask - did you try using a shielded guitar cable from the guitar to the amp input - like, no wireless?

I'm a PC guy, so maybe I don't really understand, but aren't you MAC guys able to create an Aggregate Device, and be able to use BOTH interfaces concurrently?

You're searching THIS community. Try this: https://line6.ideascale.com/a/ideas/search?templateId=0&query=stomp+snapshots You'll need to sort through the results for the HXS specific posts.

I don't have HXFX, but I tried it (Free Fallin) in Native compatibility mode using my FCB1010. Worked as expected, all snapshots changed properly, immediately, in any series I tried. I don't know of any settings that would cause snapshots in different presets to behave differently but, again, I don't have the hardware, so I can't check the Command Center settings. I'd check with support.

That's where the L6 guys go to find out what the people want. Here, not so much. BTW - This idea has already been proposed, at least once. Rather than post another, do a search and vote for all of them.