rd2rk

And I was the first to vote for it!

My first question is, can't you set the BOSS to Toggle - one footswitch sends 127/0 alternately? Second is, are you sure that the HXS is glitching, and not the BOSS? Set MIDI THRU ON and use a MIDI Monitor on your PC to track what's actually happening.

Just when I think I've seen it all.... Do a Factory Reset.

This is the community support forum. You need to go to the main Line6 website, create an account, then register there. If you already did that, you might want to make sure that GC didn't sell you a used and previously registered Helix. Wouldn't be the first time.

Not sure where you're coming into this ancient thread from, but HXS now has CommandCenter. It can send all of the same MIDI as the full-fat Helix, and can therefore be used to control LIVE within the restrictions imposed by it's 6 InstantCommands (useable with Presets and it's 3 Snapshots per Preset), 5 buttons or 2 Exp Pedals. No extra SW required.

Known bug. They're working on it.

Wrong forum. This is where you go if you're serious about suggestions for changes and improvements: https://line6.ideascale.com/a/index Before posting a new idea, please search to see if it's already been proposed. If 100 people vote on the same idea presented 20 different ways, it looks like only 5 people care about it! Also, post your ideas one at a time. I for one NEVER vote for multple combined suggestions. FWIW - I'd vote for that!

It wouldn't. I'm multitasking a problem someone else is having with that configuration and confused myself. :-P Path 2A gets sent out the 1/4" Out (sorry, I left it set to Multi, you'll need to change that). Path 2B goes out the XLR out to FOH.

You're asking the wrong person. I own a Helix so that I don't NEED tube amps and attenuators. If, for some reason I can't imagine, I felt COMPELLED to use a tube amp, I wouldn't have an Attenuator (been there, done that, it sucked). I'd get the best Reactive Load on the market, and the cheapest is not cheap. Ask yourself this - do you really think that the sound you're going to get from your VERY EXPENSIVE tube amp and reactive load rig is going to be NIGHT AND DAY better than your Helix through a good FRFR rig? Enough to justify the many hours of frustration you've experienced over it that COULD have been spent having fun PLAYING guitar and getting better at it? If the answer to the above questions is "ABSOLUTELY YES!" then have at it. For myself, I've done about as much as I can for you without having my hands on your equipment (wait - that doesn't sound the way it was meant....). . The troubleshooting steps I've given you are all you need to find the solution, IF there is one. TBH, I don't understand why there's a problem at all. It makes NO sense! Good Luck!

If it works for you, great. It's certainly simple to do IF you have a spare loop, and it's Global, as opposed to per preset. But if you DON'T have a spare loop, it's good to know that there's an alternative.

Sorry, doesn't work that way. First, you'll need an amplifier for your 212 cab. Second, unless you're using an attenuator/reactive load with a Line Out back to the Helix, ALL of your effects as well as the Helix amps will be BEFORE the amp and 212 cab. Third, any way you slice it the 212 will be at the end of your signal chain, as will the FOH speakers. You want the IR for FOH and unless you duplicate the post amp FX on the FOH path, you can't separate out the IR. Your example preset is a "kitchen sink" affair with all blocks in use, and this will require some of those blocks. The attached mod of your preset will separate the IR into a separate FOH Path. It can also be modified for use with an ATT/RL configuration. Schivosa.hlx

Try it and see. If you're replacing the Mesa Preamp with a Helix amp in 4cm, there's a parameter called "HUM" that's there specifically to model or eliminate that well known characteristic of Tube Amps. This is totally unnecessary. The FX Loop Block has SEND and RETURN levels you can use for the same affect.

That's the cable. Unless the vendor is more specific with supplied docs, you'll need to check to see if SEND is TIP (HXS SEND L) or vice versa. You've got the rest correct. Step 5 is just to take the complete signal, pre and post effects and power amp out back into the HXS to add a cab/IR for recording.

Hmmm......speaker jacks and wiring.......

And then there's the tubes in the Mesa, the tube sockets, and the other assorted bits and bobs that constitute a real live tube amp. Nothing you do to anything in the circuit before the amp matters if the problem is in the amp itself. How old is it? Had it checked out by a pro lately? Hang out a while, I may think of something else that can cause "hum".

Oh yeah, I almost forgot - have you tried the ground switch on the Helix?

Hard to know, since we don't really know what you're doing now. For starters, are all of your devices connected to the same EMI/RFI filtered surge suppressor, connected to a wall socket with a reliable (tested) ground, that isn't on the same circuit as any major appliances, fluorescents or rheostats? Are all of your devices interconnected with high quality shielded cables that you know for sure are good, that is, they haven't been laying around improperly coiled and stored in the same box you threw them in the last time you played a gig (I remember those!)? Have they been stepped on, kicked around and run over by dollies and amp casters a hundred times in the 20 years since they were new? Are you running other devices with possibly questionable and/or non-isolated power supplies? Are there power cables in parallel and in close proximity to audio cables? Do you live near high power electrical towers or cell towers? Are nearby neighbors Ham Radio geeks? I MAY be stretching here, BUT........ When you're talking about "hum", those are all major things and minor details that need to be considered before anybody can start to guess at other possible causes, so start there.

Using an INSERT Cable (TRS to dual mono), and reducing everything to the simplest configuration, expanding step by step: 1) Guitar>Amp Input>Cabinet. Balance the two channels. 2) Guitar>Amp Input>Attenuator>Cabinet. Set the Speaker Out Knob on the Attenuator to the level you want for normal playing. 3) Guitar>HXS Input>HXS L/Mono Out (INST LEVEL)>Amp Input>Attenuator>Cabinet 4) Guitar>HXS Input>FX Loop L>FX Send L>Amp Input (INSERT CABLE MONO TIP)>Amp FX Send>L/Mono Return (separate TS Cable)>HXS L/Mono Out>Amp FX Return>Attenuator>Cabinet Where does the feedback start? If NO FEEDBACK then: 5) Using the attached preset, Take the Line Out from the Attenuator to the HXS RIGHT RETURN. Take the RING half of the INSERT Cable to either a separate powered speaker or an external AI or anything you can hear it through. Turn up the Line Out Knob on the Attenuator SLOWLY. This is the Cab/IR send for recording. If you're using a DAW to test this, make sure the Input Echo switch is OFF or you WILL get feedback! Feedback? I hope I've gotten that all straight. It's harder to describe this kind of process than to actually do it! drby.hlx

Turn down the GAIN? Don't stand right next to the speakers? You might also record a sample of the "feedback" that you're experiencing and attach it here. That could help us narrow down the problem.....

Depends on the size of your room and the SPL required for you to "feel the crunch". A proper (not the cheapest crap) set of 5-8" Studio Monitors gets it for most small to mid-size rooms. For larger rooms and the ability to take it out for jams, the Headrush FRFR108 speakers are popular. Bigger and more expensive speakers with DSP = MORE.

Note edits.

There's a couple of different ways to do this. You can drag/copy/import a .wav/.mp3 file to a track in your DAW, then record on a separate track using USB1/2 as Input. OR You can stream audio from your computer into the HXS Returns: 1) Set Global Settings>Ins/Outs>Return Type = Aux In;set computer's Playback Device to the computer's soundcard (not HXS), computer headphone or LIne Out to HXS Returns 2) record that to a track using USB7/8 while 3) recording your guitar to a separate track using USB3/4 (split the path so that you have a separate 3/4 output block). OR Record a mix of the streaming audio and guitar to a single track by using step 1 above and USB1/2 as track input. As to the actual recording process, I don't use Cubase (tried it, hated it), I use Reaper or Ableton LIVE or Bandlab/Cakewalk, but the process is similar across most DAWs. Once you have your devices configured in the DAW (RTM!), RECORD ENABLE the track(s) to be recorded, turn OFF the guitar track's INPUT ECHO/Track Monitor (whatever your DAW calls it - RTM!), RECORD ENABLE the DAW Transport (sometimes that starts the recording, sometimes there's multiple ways to go about this - RTM!) and go!

The purpose of this kind of configuration is to allow the performer near infinite possibilities to do whatever crazy stuff they want to. There's no "one size fits all" or "best practices". Everything you described and more is possible. "How to" is totally dependent on your specific needs. FWIW - if you read many "rig rundowns", you know that many if not most top pros hire someone to build this type of rig for them, and/or have very clever roadies to set it up and maintain it. You're already a step ahead, have confidence in your abilities! Personally, where my guitar rig is concerned, I'm of the "KISS" school. Guitar plugs into Helix. Helix L6 Link plugs into Powercab. 2cm. There's nothing I want or need to do that requires external pedals or a complex switching system. I bought a Helix to eliminate all that. I still use 4cm with my tube amp, when someone needs help. The amp is languishing on Craigslist and when it's sold, that's it. Have fun experimenting and Good Luck! Afterthought - if you have general questions concerning MIDI (not specific to your switcher), I may be able to help. While my performance guitar rig is simple, my "studio" setup - synths, edrums, DAWs, VSTs - is another thing altogether, and I control it all from my Helix, an FCB1010/UNO board, an APC grid/pad controller and Korg nanoKontrol.

There's no difference between the Rack, Floor and LT as far as expression pedals are concerned. What works for one works for all. IIRC, the Rack has a Toe Switch input, but that's the only difference.

What DAW? Using ASIO? Try recording with an empty (NEW) preset, nothing in it. If you don't have the problem, it's a gain staging issue in your preset.