rd2rk

I re-read your post. You are correct, and I apologize to all and sundry for my error. I was doing my tests using Powercab Edit. I tested repeatedly, with the stated results. Apparently, Powercab Edit is not working properly on my computer. When I tested using the settings from HX Edit, it worked as you say. I strive for perfection, but....not the first time I've been tricked by a robot, probably won't be the last! I've edited my previous posts and added my mea culpa.

If you want to get the attention of the developers, post your requests here: https://line6.ideascale.com/ Post each request separately. I for one NEVER up-vote multiples.

You might also try setting the Helix 1/4" outs to LINE, using a full amp and cabs with a mono signal chain, and sending both outs to the MP3 input. This will bypass the BS tone stack. Might sound better. But, seriously, you're listening to a pair of 3" speakers, not even in stereo. It's NOT going to sound like a 412 cab!

Ableton has a boatload of drum kits and clips. What's available depends on the version, but even the Intro and Lite versions have all sorts of drum stuff.

NO! Quoting from my previous post: NOTHING in the PC+ settings affects the Helix Output!

Here's a link to Ben Vesco's Helix DSP allocation tables. https://benvesco.com/store/helix-dsp-allocations/ The percentage listed is for the amount of DSP used in the Path that contains the block, not the total. Each Path has 100% available, so a Path 1 that loops into Path 2 Has twice the amount of a single path, but the percentage is of the Path where the block resides. So, to figure the amount of DSP allocated, you add the percentages of the Path the blocks are on, not the blocks on both paths. According to the table a stock cab takes 19.20% of the DSP of that Path; an IR block takes 17.33%. I'll leave the math for your specific needs to you.

The PC+ can be set to SPEAKER or USER IR to save DSP in the HXS. This will be reflected at both the PC+ Speaker and the XLR Out. If your signal chain is mono you can use the L/Mono out to the PC+ and R out to an amp. That gives you two available FX loops. You can use a SEND in the HXS to SEND a signal direct from HXS to an amp from the SEND L or R, leaving one free for a mono FX loop. There's lots of ways to do it, What you CAN'T do is send a different signal to the Speaker and the XLR Out from within the PC+.

That's not really a good option, as I've read that even MAC guys think it's iffy. That's the INPUT chart. The chart you want is on page 19 of the 18i20 manual. Well, the version I have anyway. I just double checked to be sure. IF you've got S/PDIF configured so that it's sending to your speakers as I described, then in Ableton, S/PDIF Out 1/2 is Inputs 9/10. Are you arming the track you're using? Being an Ableton vet, you should know this but sometimes I forget too.

As simple as I can make it. The OUTPUT clip indicator on the HELIX does NOT need to be RED for the INPUT clip indicator on the POWERCAB to be RED. BUT, if the OUTPUT clip indicator on the HELIX is RED, there's NO WAY you won't clip the INPUT clip indicator on the POWERCAB. Just because the OUTPUT clip indicator on the HELIX is NOT RED, that doesn't mean that you won't clip the INPUT clip indicator on the POWERCAB. Lastly, the volume knob on the POWERCAB does NOT affect the input level, it ONLY affects the POWERCAB OUTPUT. THERE IS NO INDICATOR on the HELIX or in HX EDIT or POWERCAB EDIT that will indicate that the POWERCAB INPUT is clipping. I agree that there should be, for exactly the reasons you're asking. Having to run back and forth is REALLY ANNOYING! Do a search on Ideascale. there's a request for a POWERCAB input clip indicator on the Helix, VOTE FOR IT! But the only way it could work is if you're using the AES/EBU cable. I'm sorry for all the caps, I'm not YELLING, I'm trying to emphasize WHICH LEVELS and WHICH DEVICE I'm speaking of.

The clipping indicator on Helix does NOT reflect when the Input on the Powercab is clipping. The Powercab Input will clip WAY before the Helix does.

No.

I think it's a bug, in that, if you're controlling the Powercab from the Helix, the settings should be divorced from the Powercab Presets. At present, you can shut off Helix control when using PC Presets via MIDI, but not the other way around. I am hopeful of a Powercab update that addresses this and some other bugs when using two PCs. Hopefully, the update will include an improved version of Powercab Edit, and a MUCH better manual!

In HX Edit, if you select the Output Block, then select the Powercab Tab, you can set the Powercab speakers for that preset. You can also assign speaker and FRFR Mode changes to Snapshots. This works with the AES/EBU cable. MIDI cables are only necessary if you want to change Powercab Presets or control Powercab settings using MIDI commands. NOTE that when using the AES/EBU cable you should use a Powercab "NEW PRESET" or a Powercab user preset set to LF FLAT. This is due to a problem with the HF driver not switching off in the LF FLAT/RAW and SPEAKER modes when switching using AES/EBU and a Powercab Preset set to FRFR.

S/PDIF is Inputs 9/10 in Ableton, probably same in BG.

Maybe if you describe, in detail, how the problem happens? Because what you describe above is, in fact, crazy. You add a block and it sends up a window that says "Assign Bypass" all by itself? Then assigns the bypass switch wherever it wants, not where you tell it to? And this happens on a new preset? Re-install v3.0 HX Edit. Then do a factory reset. If that doesn't fix it, re-install the v3.01 FW. If that doesn't fix it, something is definitely not right. You say you "sent it in"? If you sent it in to L6, send it back.

As zappazapper says above, but try getting all of your audio equipment on the same breaker circuit to eliminate that cause of ground loops. Also be sure that you're using a quality emi/rfi filtered surge strip for everything on that circuit, and that it's not a circuit that also hosts refrigerators, air conditioners, microwaves rheostats, etc. In addition, since "buzzy" is not a really clear description of the problem, be aware of possible USB ground loop issues. These can be REALLY hard to track down. If all of the regular ground loop solutions above fail, try disconnecting your USB devices one by one starting with anything not audio such as printers, modems, routers and the like. You might connect those to different USB ports than the audio related USB devices, maybe separate hubs? A last word on wall warts. In addition to being famously noisy, it's possible that they can be defective and still appear to work. If you have multiple wall warts in your system, you might need to get a high quality power supply with isolated outs such as those made by VooDoo Labs, OneSpot and others. Are we having fun yet? EDIT: Oh, yeah, defective cables......

As mentioned, you can use the digital out and save the XLRs for something else. If you have the full-fat Helix Floor or Rack you'll need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Coaxial-Optical-Converter-Bi-Directional/dp/B07VHPJ1DD/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 If you have the LT, something like this might work: https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/CDL313--hosa-cdl-313 That second one should work with the Floor or Rack also, but the first one is cheaper and comes with cables. You might want to contact support to verify that these converters will work. I have the Floor model, and my Scarlett 18i20 has Coax S/PDIF I/O, so I don't need these. In any case, buy from somebody with a good returns policy, in case there's noise or it just doesn't work as advertised with the ID44.

Native has hardware DSP modes. You can set it to HX Stomp mode and it won't let you use mode DSP than the actual HW allows.

On a PC you can't PRACTICALLY (there are workarounds that mostly don't work consistently) use two ASIO devices at once. That means connecting your ID44 and your Helix by USB won't work. Your ID44 has the ability to do everything you want. I suggest you go to their website and watch all the videos while referencing the manual. Depending on which Helix you have, you might be able to use the S/PDIF Inputs on the ID44 (need adapter) and eliminate the (pretty much inaudible) AD/DA conversion that would be necessary using the XLR from Helix to ID44. If you bought your Helix new (or if the previous owner didn't use the discount), you can get a great discount on the Helix NATIVE Plugin. You put that on a track in your DAW, record a clean guitar signal on the track, then process it through NATVE any way you like. No need for traditional re-amping. Helix routing options make this easy, and whatever sound you make on the HW Helix can be duplicated in Native. After you've done some research on the Audient site and better understand the ID44's capabilities, come back here for answers to specific Helix questions.

Probably not. You'd most likely need an LT or Floor model. Here's a link to a chart of Helix DSP usage. Stomp is approx half a Helix (1 processor vs 2). https://benvesco.com/store/helix-dsp-allocations/

Better. I've had mine since 2016. I use it a LOT. OK, try it this way. You already have the HD500X. DL the Helix 3.0 manual. Is there anything the HD500X does that the Helix doesn't? Answer: No. Is there anything the Helix does that the HD500X doesn't do? LOTS! Is L6 releasing regular improvement updates to the HD500X? No. Will they ever? Not likely. Will they continue to release improvement updates for Helix for the foreseeable future? Yes. Search the TGP Digital and modeling forum Helix thread for posts by @Digital Igloo and @benadrian for hints about their plans. Bottom line for minimum use scenario (plug in and play): It sounds better, it's easier to use and it's all around more powerful. There's NOTHING about the HD500X that would justify keeping it, other than you already own it, you're totally happy with it and you can't afford a Helix.

Yes. I wasn't happy with the HD500X for many reasons, mostly sound. Yes. Everything. Do it!

A pair of studio monitors are two amps. If you're not getting a hum from them (mine don't hum), then there ya go! If you're getting a hum at the gig, it's probably the house's 100 yo electrical system or the Bud Lite sign. :-)

Yes. I tested it before posting.