rd2rk

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When you create a split, a second path is created below the main path. Where it originates is the SPLIT Block, where it merges back into the main path is the MERGE or MIX block.

Your preset had 3 ICs assigned, and the ICs in SS2 and 3 weren't saved properly. When your preset loads, it sends the ICs in order, and does it again every time you switch Snapshots. You only need 1 IC, saved with different CC#s in each Snapshot. Remember to SAVE the preset after making changes in each Snapshot. Also, be sure you've turned OFF MIDI PC SEND in Global Settings>MIDI/Tap. Try it now, and don't forget to reboot the amp before trying it. RANDALL 4 CORD Mod.hlx

Did you try the factory reset as I suggested above?

Attach your preset and I'll look at it. I'm not near my Helix, but I have my HXS, so don't send a big preset - 6 blocks max,

Re-install HX Edit v3.0. That re-installs all the necessary drivers.

There really isn't an "optimum" level. You could shoot for 75% as a starting point. That SHOULD give you a signal that's not too hot for MOST FOH boards. However, keep in mind that perceived loudness is different from actual db level, and that clean signals are less compressed (more dynamic range) than overdriven signals, and will tend to spike more easily with dynamic playing. As for louder being meatier, the only place that makes a difference is in relation to the Fletcher-Munson effect. Once you get past 85-90db, that's not really an issue. That's why you should always design your performance presets at performance levels. The main consideration should be that if the signal is too weak, the final amplification system won't get loud enough, and you'll be drowned out by the drummer and bass player. If it's too hot it'll overload the board and the FOH engineer will be very upset. It doesn't affect tone in the same way as poor gain staging within the preset does.

Helix/Rack/LT/FX/Stomp Reset Procedures and Troubleshooting Tricks - HELIX/HX - Line 6 Community

In Global Settings>MIDI/Tap set MIDI PC Send OFF. Set the amp's MIDI Channel to match the Helix Base Channel (Global Settings>MIDI/TAP>Base Channel default = 1). In a Helix Preset, in Command Center, in Snapshot 1 set Instant Command 1 (IC1) to MIDI CC 56 (Clean, Channel 1) with a Value of 127. In Snapshot 2 set IC1 to CC 57 Value 127 (Channel 2). In Snapshot 3 set IC1 to CC 58 Value 127 (Channel 3). Then SAVE the Preset on the Snapshot that calls the Channel desired for that Snapshot. Of course, you can set IC1 in any Snapshot to any channel, whatever serves the preset best. Above is just to test the function. Just remember to always SAVE the preset on the Snapshot that calls the channel you want the preset to use by default when the preset is loaded. Also, once you've set the IC in a Snapshot, SAVE the preset before moving on to the next Snapshot. If Global Settings>Preferences>Snapshot Edits is set to RECALL, then you can just SAVE the preset after you've set all the snapshots. You can also do this using PCs instead of CCs, but the manual isn't really clear on the process and, if it works the way I think it does, it's less of a hassle to use CCs.

I can't say anything about that particular controller, but I can give you two tips for using any programmable controller to keep your head from exploding. 1) if the SW allows it (and I wouldn't buy a controller that didn't), save your configuration to a file. 2) Install a MIDI Monitor on your computer so you can test the configuration after sending it to the controller.

Glad you got it sorted. FWIW - the whole re-amping thing is SO much easier with Native - just put Native on the "Re-Amped" track and route the signal from the "DI" track to Native. Done. Of course, if you bought the Helix used from someone who already exercised the Native discount option, it's kind of pricey. If not, $99 is almost a no-brainer. Anyhow, have fun!

Step 2: Create a second Audio Track named "DI". Input = Stereo Input 7; Output = Stereo Output 7 Disable INPUT ECHO on all tracks. In Helix: In Global Settings>Ins/Outs make sure that "USB In 1/2 Destination" is set to MULTI or the outputs where your monitors are connected. Your preset's Output Block should be set to MULTI. In Cakewalk: RECORD ARM "Helix" and "DI". Record your part. Did the "DI" track record?

Step 1: In Cakewalk: Edit>Preferences>Audio Device Make sure all Inputs and Outputs are checked Create an Audio Track named "HELIX". Input = Stereo Input 1; Output = Master Can you record a track?

A typically terrible description of the MIDI implementation. The manual states that the "EMB" board accepts either PC or CC messages, whichever is received first, but not both. It's not at all clear if that's per command series (can't combine), per preset, per boot, or forever, or if it can be reset. Nor is it stated that the 7-pin MIDI connector is compatible with 5-pin MIDI. USUALLY the extra pins are there simply to provide LED power to a footswitch, and simply ignored in a 5-pin setup, but....? You say you found several tutorials on doing this. I couldn't find any. Links?

As @tjbassoon said, you need to record a DI track along with your processed track, then play it back through the HXS and adjust to your heart's content! When you get the sound you want, record it to a new track. You'll then have the original processed track and the edited track to compare. It's called "re-amping". See page 56 of the 3.0 manual for the How-To. Or, if you bought your HXS new (or the previous owner didn't exercise the option), you can get NATIVE for $99 and do it ITB.

What, exactly, are you trying to do? In what DAW?

Have you got it working yet? If not I'll run you thru the process.

Since you seemed to think that digital overload was BAD but analog overload was OK..... If the Input is already overloaded (digital or analog), that makes downstream gain staging much more difficult. If all you're using midi for is to add switches, great, but midi can be used for a lot more than that, and you weren't specific. I bought a Helix in part to cut down on board complexity and tap dancing while performing. Adding external pedals, to me, is going backwards. Since midi can be used to re-simplify after doing so, I pointed out some possible cons in that scenario. See my closing remarks below. Not at all. Just be aware that just as not all OD pedals sound great with all amps, not all boosts/ODs are going to sound great in front of your HXS. Above is noted because it saves typing later on when you (royal you) come back and say "HXS sucks because it doesn't sound good with my pedals". Really. It happens a LOT! Keep in mind that when we respond to posters on this forum, we have no idea of your experience level and, unless you're very specific about your goals, we have no idea what you're trying to accomplish. We just do our best to be helpful to fellow users!

I don't know if it's digital or not, but RED ALWAYS means STOP! Turn down the output from the pedal. Unless you have a favorite drive pedal that the HXS just doesn't satisfactorily emulate, what's the point of a MIDI controlled pedal board if you add pedals that aren't MIDI controlled? Of course, you could add a MIDI controlled Loop Switcher. But that adds complexity and size to the board. And cables and power supplies and noise.... Also, while some people put such pedals in an HXS loop, it's a crap shoot whether they'll sound good, and often just serve to amplify the small amount of noise that using a Loop can add. Lastly, anytime you put something in a loop, it adds a small amount of latency (2-3ms) for the additional DA/AD conversion. It's not much, but if you put digital FX in a loop, each one adds another 2-3ms. It adds up. Last lastly, at the point where you're adding pedals because you're running out of blocks, and Loop Switchers and MIDI controllers and expression pedals, you might well consider how much you're spending. It just might be time for an LT or Floor to replace the Stomp. How much do you REALLY NEED that VERY SPECIAL dirt pedal?

Assuming that you put the correct FX Loop Block in your signal chain, sounds like a cabling problem. Guitar>LT Input>LT FX Loop Send>Amp Input>Amp FX Loop SEND> LT FX Loop Return>LT L/Mono OUT>Amp FX Loop RETURN Also, make sure that the FX Loop on the amp is enabled, some amps allow you to disable the FX Loop. If you run a cable directly from the amp's FX Loop SEND to it's FX Loop RETURN and connect your guitar to the amp's input and get sound, it's working.

Do a factory reset. Reset Options | Helix Help

XLR cables are balanced. TRS cables are balanced. Long XLR cables are cheaper and easier to find than long TRS cables. IIRC, the 1/4" outs on the Floor are not balanced, but I could be wrong. Usually, the 1/4" outs are used for your stage monitor/amp, and the XLRs go to FOH or Audio Interface if you're not using the Helix as AI.

Backup an empty setlist. Then backup your active setlists. Restore the empty setlist over an active setlist. Make new presets. Backup and restore as often as you like!

So the solution is obvious. Sell the Helix that you can't figure out and keep the AXE that you love. OR you COULD provide the requested details of your signal chain (including playback/monitoring system), sound samples (with recording details) and a sample preset. Your memories of long gone amps, regardless of whatever extensive experience you had with them back then (my question was, what amps do you have NOW), is useless to us. We can't help you if you won't cooperate with the troubleshooting process.

Which of the offending Helix modeled amps do you currently own? I ask because: "Acoustic Memory. Can hold information for up to two or three seconds." It might be helpful to the L6 engineers, who compared the actual amps they modeled to the modeled amps, to make some comparison clips to send them so that they can hear exactly what you're talking about. I would argue that if you no longer own the amps in question, then you're comparing the modeled amps to an idealized memory. Even worse if you're comparing the modeled amps to so-and-so's recording of such-and-such song recorded in some-studio-or other and engineered by "THAT guy". Also, some have argued that the perception of the AXE amps sounding "better" is based on the AXE amps having been "smoothed out" (got no idea what that means, just repeating what I've read over on TGP), vs the Helix amps, which are more "RAW" (authentic?) sounding. And then there's the difference between the sound of a tube amp through a cab and the Helix sound through....? Finally, the number of well recorded comparisons of Helix vs AXE vs "The Real Deal", where nobody could consistently tell the difference, even when actually playing the parts, is considerable. We'd ALL like to hear the Helix/AXE/KPA updated to sound even realer than real, and I'm sure they will be. Soon....