rd2rk

If you read the whole thread, you'll see that there's many possible causes. Windows version is not one of them. I can't speak for PodGo, but I have Helix Floor and HX Stomp, on two very different laptops, both of which always have the latest available Windows version. I've never experienced this problem with any Windows version or any Helix version on either device. I've had the Floor since 9/2016 and the HXS since 7/2019. That's lots of versions. The only problem I've ever had was using too long a USB cable - 10' + 15' extension. 10+10 works fine. You can waste your time blaming Microsoft, but that's all you'll accomplish. Look closer to home.

PLEASE attach the preset.

"It doesn't work right" doesn't mean anything to anybody but you. What is it SUPPOSED to do? What EXACTLY, does it do? What is your hardware configuration? Amp, etc.? For BEST results, attach the preset to your reply to the above questions so we can see what's happening in your configuration.

Has nothing to do with output levels. It's all about noise rejection, especially over long cable runs.

Same Same. You're taking the HXS Output into a Preamp in either case. The reason they say to use XLR cables to FOH is that FOH is often far away, the board takes XLR but not necessarily TRS, and TRS cables in extra long lengths are rare and more expensive than XLR.

There's nothing weird happening in that preset, or with the Cosmos Echo. It's as cruisinon2 said above, some things are louder than others, some combinations affect apparent output differently. NBD. The nature of the beast. Go to the output block and raise the level a couple of db. Done.

You obviously have a sound in your head, someplace I've never visited. My suggestion can only be to try it everywhere - before the HXS, in a loop before the HXS amp, in a loop after the amp, between the HXS and your physical amp. Fact is, there's no right way to do it, and what sounds fine to me might sound awful to you. I would suggest that you start by testing the various locations in the signal chain in mono. Once you've found the right location, there's various ways to incorporate stereo. Find a place in the signal chain that sounds good to you before the last mono block, or make the FX loop you've put the tank in your last mono block, it'll be stereo through the following stereo blocks. The attached example preset uses a Mono Reverb to replace what in your configuration would be the tank in an FX Loop. That's followed by a Stereo Ping-Pong delay for the obvious effect, and a Stereo Imager Block to further enhance the stereo effect. Samdbl.hlx

Fair enough. Just keep in mind that putting OD/Distortion effects in a loop vs in front of the amp is not the same, and you won't be able to (most effectively) use Helix amps unless you split your guitar signal before the amp and Helix and create separate presets for each signal path.

Yes, you can, you just won't be able to put Helix FX in front of the amp, or toggle between Helix amps and your amp's preamp.. You take the FX Send from the amp to the Helix FX Loop Return, set that as the Input at the Input Block, then take the L/Mono Out back to the amp's FX Loop Return. You're basically putting the Helix in the amp's FX Loop. In addition to not being able to put FX in front of your amp, with 4cm, the amp's preamp is in the Helix FX Loop, and by setting an amp and the FX Loop Block to the same footswitch, you can toggle between the Helix amps and your amp's preamp. Did somebody tell you that it would sound better going straight from your guitar into the amp vs going 4cm? It doesn't. You just lose a whole lot of functionality.

If you set it to Line in Global Settings>Ins/Outs Only if they're widely separated (>20ft) and/or there's a lot of noisy electrical stuff around (motors, fluorescents, refrigerators, A/C, etc.)

Yes, of course! What we're saying is that some sort of amplifier is necessary to raise the level of your preset. I understand that you don't want to add stuff to your preset. I want to be taller. It doesn't matter what we WANT. Reality is what it is. You can add an amplifier to the preset. Or you can find a way to boost the signal to your physical amplifier when you load those presets. One way or another, if you want an audio signal to be LOUDER, you have to AMPLIFY it! Your problem is NOT a flaw in your device, it's a flaw in your thinking about how to use it.

Amplifiers amplify?

The point of a single cab stereo rig is not directly for the audience, it's for the player. Some folks believe that it always has to be ALL ABOUT THE AUDIENCE! But the audience rarely benefits from stereo, half the audience hears something different from the other half, and only the folks in the middle really hear it. The benefit to the audience of a single stereo Powercab is that if the player is inspired by the sound on stage, he/she plays better and has more fun doing it, which the audience perceives as a great performance. And if you're mostly playing at home, the only audience is you!

Helix amps don't have a true fx loop. You can put the fx between the amp and speaker, but that's as close as it gets. Having the fx after the cab is more like what's done in post production in a studio. You just have to twiddle the dials till it sounds good!

After you updated, did you restore your Global Settings from the backup you made before the update?

When asking for help with something you saw online, it's useful to provide the link....

It sounds like you're not getting the Volume Block settings properly assigned to Snapshots. This is where using HX Edit makes things much simpler. If it were me, I'd do this as follows: Separate paths for each pickup, with Path A Input Block L/Mono In for electric, Path B Input Block Aux In for piezo. Assign the Output Block Level on both paths to SNAPSHOTS. SS1 = Path A (Electric) Output Level -120db; Path B (Piezo) Output Level 0.0db SS2 = Path A (Electric) Output Level 0.0db; Path B (Piezo) Output Level -120db Save the preset between Snapshots, and go back to the SS you want as the default for a final save.

If you're not gigging, this is the way to go. I'd add a sub, but it's not essential. If you're after a TRUE STEREO experience, separate speakers are the way to go. OTOH, the PC212 at it's full 200% spread setting is VERY impressive, and my room is the same size as the OP's. My solution is a PC212 (retains the option that I might someday gig again, and sounds great), plus a pair of 6" Studio Monitors for the other stuff (keyboards, eDrums, backing tracks, MIXING). I run my bass through my FRFR112 that sounded like crap for guitar - great for bass. Works for me!

I'm still waiting on my free pony.....

It's hard to tell from the video, but the bottom line is that if it's a physical vibration in the cabinet, return it for an exchange. If it's distortion in the signal, look to gain staging in your signal chain. The level indicator on the PC actually isn't meant to be "always in the green". It should actually be amber/orange when you're digging in, even the OCCASIONAL flash of red is OK.

Sorry, I left out the "alternate" rig. To use it like it is now, just add an HXS Amp and put it on the same FS as the FX loop L Block. Save the preset with one ON, one OFF. When the FX Loop L Block is ON, the HXS Amp is OFF, and your signal passes through the AC30 preamp. When the FX Loop L Block is OFF, the HXS Amp is ON and your signal passes through the rest of the signal chain as normal, ending up at the DI.

4cm with a twist. Guitar>Tuner/Outboard FX>HXS L/Mono In>HX effects>FX loop L Block>FX Loop L Out (TIP)>AC30 Input>AC30 FX Send>HXS L/Mono Return>HX effects>FX loop R Block>HXS FX Send R (RING)>Ventris IN>Ventris OUT>HXS FX Return R>HXS L/Mono Out>AC30 FX Return. You'll need to set the FX Loop Levels to INST in Global Settings Ins/Outs.

I'm posting this because once upon a time, you could use MIDI to load a preset and a specific snapshot (other than the one saved in the preset). I know that it worked in a previous version because I tested it for someone here who wanted to know how to do it. Recently someone asked again and I was embarrassed when what I told him didn't work. Upon testing I discovered that some update between when I first tested it and v3.0 broke that function. I suspected that the problem is that there needs to be a WAIT between commands, and I've finally been able to demonstrate that. A user over on TGP wanted to load a preset with a specific snapshot, then start the looper. He was unable to get his Morningstar MC6 to do it. Using an FCB1010 with the programmable UNO2 chip, I was able to get it all working. The trick is that there needs to be a WAIT between commands. The following code illustrates what I mean: TRIGGER_CLICK HXLOADPSLP = { SendMidi DEVICE ProgChange 018 Wait 10 SendMidi DEVICE CtrlChange 69 2 Wait 10 SendMidi DEVICE CtrlChange 60 127 } Where DEVICE is set to MIDI Channel 1 and Wait 10 = 1 second. Using this code I was able to load the Preset, then the Snapshot, then start the Looper. So, if you want to do something like this, your MIDI device needs to be able to place a WAIT between MIDI messages sent.

When you load a preset or a snapshot, the commands assigned to the "lightning bolts", properly called "Instant Commands" (IC) are executed in order. They are not directly related to the footswitches. Each snapshot can have different commands assigned to the ICs. If SS1 executes command X on IC1, subsequent snapshots will not execute command X until a snapshot executes command Y. Example - IC1 in SS1 and SS2 both send a TIP message. IC1 in SS3 sends a RING message. SS1 is the default (the SS saved with the preset). When you load the preset, the TIP message is sent. If you switch to SS2, it is not sent again. If you switch to SS3 the RING message is sent. If you then switch to SS1 or SS2, the TIP message is sent again. I'm not at home with my HX Floor, I'm on the road with my HX Stomp, which does not have the switching feature. While the above rule applies to MIDI commands, I'm not 100% positive that it applies to the switching commands. You can test this with a TRS cable and a multimeter. If you use Toggling CCs on the footswitches (you can't use them on ICs), each time the preset or a snapshot loads, it will send the Toggling CCs (true also for NOTES, I believe). Regular (non-toggling) CCs are not sent when the preset/snapshot loads (unless assigned to ICs). There's probably more, but that's the important stuff, and my breakfast is ready! :-) EDIT: Plus what phil_m said.

Which Helix product are you using? What are you trying to rename? Are your FW and HX Edit on the same version?