rd2rk

Contact support. You may have a bad display. RANDOM = No way to reliably troubleshoot, ESPECIALLY online. As I have not seen this reported here by anyone other than you, odds are the problem is YOUR HXFX. If I'm wrong, I'm sure that someone else will chime in sooner or later. Meanwhile, contact support.

Contact Support. You may have a bad switch.

Short version - on Helix you assign a parameter to MIDI CC, then specify the CC# and the MIN/MAX Values, then SAVE the Preset. A single CC can control many parameters, but, and this depends on your specific needs and the capabilities of your controller, you may want to use multiple CCs to keep it straight in your head what controls what! Setting up the Helix FS Rows is done in Global Settings>Footswitches. There's lots of options. RTM. To reset a Snapshot by pressing the FS again, in Global Settings>Preferences>Snapshot Reselect = Reload. Snapshot Edits = Discard will load the saved Snapshot after switching to another. If you want to use MIDI with Helix, start here: The "Unofficial" Helix MIDI Guide (the-eye.eu) You probably don't want the MIDI Baby. Look into the Morningstar MC series controllers. There's many others, but you want something that can send all MIDI PC and CC, Momentary, toggling (latching) and simple. See the MIDI Guide above if you don't know what those are. You also want to be able to send multiple messages with a single FS press. And you want to be able to set this all up using an app versus manually - "first press this, then press that, then press something else 3 times, then press......." - do-able, but a frustrating PITA! If you think a controller will do what you want, DL the manual to be sure. That's how I found out you don't want the MIDI Baby. Once you've read the Guide and researched Controllers you'll have a better idea of what you want to do - everything you mentioned IS possible - but it's pointless to try to tell you how to do it without knowing EXACTLY what you want to do and what hardware you'll be using to do it.

Sorry, I read that too fast. Is this how you're wired: Guitar>HXFX IN>HXFX SEND>JCM IN>JCM FX SEND>HXFX RETURN>HXFX OUT>JCM FX RETURN IF YES THEN Are you using the correct FX Loop Block for the jacks in use? IF YES THEN Check the JCM's FX Loop by connecting a cable directly from send to return. Check the HXFX Loop the same way. Check the cables you're using in the FX Loop. I know, sounds basic, of course you're sure of all that, but check anyway. There's only so many things that can go wrong with a 4cm rig.

In order for 4cm to work, you need to have an FX Loop Block in the signal chain. Otherwise the signal goes straight to the FX Return of the amp without passing through the Marshall Preamp and back to the HXFX.

Just assign your controller to the PAN parameter of the Output Block.

FWIW - tested this using my Moskey Dual Switch, OP appears to have found a genuine bug.

TBH, I think that the LF Flat/Raw settings are overrated as a solution to the problem you've described. All they do is disable the HF Driver (same as FLAT mode) and change the speaker EQ. Most people I've seen recommend them on TGP have eventually dumped the Powercab. It sounds to me more like you just don't like the way the Powercab sounds. You might be better off trying a regular guitar speaker cab with something like an SD Powerstage as an amp. Also, many people don't like the stock Helix cabs. They require dialing in as to mic and distance, Hi/Lo cuts and early reflections. That's why many prefer using 3rd party IRs, which, to me, are a whole 'nother rabbit hole. That said, many 3rd party IR vendors offer free "sample" packs. You might want to try some of those, as well as some of the FFIRs (Far Field IRs) that some folks have posted over on TGP. I like the York Audio IRs, and I've used Redwirez (the ORIGINAL IR rabbit hole) for years. Both offer free "sample" packs. My experience - I've tried Studio Monitors, Tube Combo amps, Alto TS210, HR FRFR112 and PC112+, in every mode, with stock cabs, IRs (NF and FF), and speaker sims. I traded my PC112+ for a PC212+, and I feel like I'm home. I still use every method and mode depending on the needs of the preset I'm working on, but they all sound good. Now it's only a question of what sounds BEST. And Stereo too!

The Helix is controlling the level of the MIX of the iPad and guitar. Lower the volume on the iPad. If necessary, raise the guitar volume using the LEVEL parameter at the Output Block of the Preset.

Do another factory reset. If that doesn't fix it, open a support ticket.

Your KB is connected via MIDI DIN to the Helix MIDI IN, and set to a different MIDI Channel than the Helix BASE Channel? MIDI THRU and MIDI OVER USB are enabled on Helix? Helix is the INPUT DEVICE on the Cubase MIDI RECORD track, with the MIDI Channel on that track set to the same channel as the KB (NOT Helix BASE Channel)? You've used a MIDI MONITOR within Cubase to check that the correct MIDI signal is being received?

What commands are you using to do this?

Start by posting this in the proper forum: M5 / M9 / M13 - Line 6 Community My guess? You are now the proud owner of a hi-tech doorstop.

Can't help you on the specs, but can tell you that I tried an iDefender USB 2.0 isolator alternately on every device, and it didn't solve the problem, actually increased the noise. My solution came about through randomly trying every USB connection in every port of my laptop, USB Powered hub and USB-C hub (except the Helix itself, that stayed direct to the laptop). I wound up with the Helix, Scarlett AI and mouse connected to the laptop's USB ports, my printer, PC212 and assorted MIDI controllers connected to the powered hub, and the powered hub and external HD connected to the USB-C hub on the laptop's USB-C port. With a total of 10 USB devices in the system, it was a nightmare figuring it out. Good Luck!

The longer I have my Helix, the more possible ways to use it that I discover. Rock On!

Assuming that both presets use the same blocks, you can copy down the settings from the snapshots of each block of one preset and apply them manually to the blocks/snapshots in the other preset. Yes, a tedious PITA, but that's your only option. There's no way to merge presets, or copy a block with all of it's various snapshot settings.

Since you're using Stomp Mode for Presets, you could configure Preset Mode to show the 8 available Snapshots instead of Presets. That would allow you to bypass FX using Snapshots. Of course, you'd have to remember which Snapshots did what, as you'd have no LED feedback, but Snapshots are very powerful, and it's a shame to ignore them. At the very least, having a Snapshot assigned to individually bypass 7 of your 8 FX Blocks, with SS1 your base Preset configuration, allows use of the basic Stomp functions, including both bypass and parameter changes everywhere within the preset. Just something to think about.

OK, now I see what you're doing. You have 10 essential presets, so since Preset Mode only invokes 8 presets, it won't work for you. I assume that, lacking the ability to use Stomps to bypass FX, you're using Preset Mode for 8 Snapshots. Unfortunately, the footswitches in Stomp Mode are designed to work with Min/Max values. Using them to select presets, the LEDs just won't work.

The assignment is on the preset level. You can't change the assignment per snapshot.

Fanboi or masochist? :-) ^^^Note smiley :-)

WARNING! Fire WILL rain down upon your head! The proper forum for Helix vs XYZ is TGP. Go soon. Stay long! Have BIG FUN!

Make sure you're using HX Edit v3.1, and that the FW (not just the # on the bottom of HX Edit) is v3.1. Do a full backup, a factory reset and restore. If you still have the problem, check the cable. Finally, try a different switch. I use a Moskey Dual Switch and it works fine.

As you read the manual you may come up with more specific questions than "Will it do everything I want or might ever want it to do?" It's a lot easier to answer your questions when they're more specific to the unit. But, in the end, your best bet is to find a store with a good returns policy, buy one, hunker down and try it.

Did you read my reply to #6? The more complex and DSP intensive a preset is, the longer it takes to load, and the more likely there'll be an audio dropout. So far in the latest version I haven't come across a change that caused an audio dropout, but that doesn't guarantee that some preset you come up with won't be the one. Reality - if you hit a chord and let it ring while you switch presets, there WILL be a sudden and probably jarring change if the effects are that different, and there's no FX unit in the world that won't happen with. IF that happens, you'll have to adjust your playing or adjust your preset. Same with an audio dropout between presets. It's not like the audio dropout between high DSP presets is 2 seconds long, we're talking a couple of milliseconds. The main point being that there's no way to predict if it would even happen, so why assume that it will? There may be other devices that GUARANTEE no audio dropouts ever, but they CAN'T guarantee against the jarring juxtaposition of radically different effects. If you find such a device, AND it does everything else Helix does, by all means buy it.

1) Yes, depending on DSP requirements for the specific FX chosen. 2) Yes 3) No. A preset can have 3,4 or 8 variations (depending on the specific device) called Snapshots, but you can not organize Presets as Songs. 4) Footswitch arrangement and display is very flexible (depending on the specific device). 5) On the Rack, Floor and LT there are 8 setlists of 128 Presets. See 3). 6) On the Rack, Floor and LT, simple Presets can be designed to do this (Spillover Enabled), at a cost in DSP. That said, in the latest version of the FW (3.1), I don't detect any audio dropout when changing presets even without Spillover Enabled. There's no audio dropout when changing Snapshots.