rd2rk

Ah, I missed that one, as his first post was concerning stuff of which I know nothing. Sometimes it takes a village... ;-)

I guess that's what I get for being a first responder... :-(

Attach the preset and give me some details about your amp.

Make sure Helix and your amp are using the same MIDI Channel. Assuming that your preset is saved with SS1 as default, set InstantCommand1 to the proper PC/CC#/Ext Amp setting to select the default amp channel. In SS2 set IC1 to the desired PC/CC#/Ext Amp setting for the desired amp channel. Continue as required. Each SS that you use needs to be configured as above. Don't forget that unless Global Settings>Preferences>Snapshot Edits is set to RECALL, you need to SAVE the Preset after each change to a SS before moving to the next one.

The updater available is for OS X and is compatible with: Mac OS X, macOS Sierra, macOS High Sierra, macOS Mojave, macOS Catalina, macOS Big Sur, macOS Monterey, macOS Ventura If you don't have one of those you'll need to open a support ticket. Good Luck!

I told you how to fix it. You seem to have tried everything but.

Yep, that's what it does. See Page 12 of the manual. Nope, no way to disable it. Some things in life, you just gotta be careful!

Assuming that you are NOT plugged into a HUB: When HX Edit was updated it also installed the latest version of the L6 Updater. Re-do the update using the L6 Updater. Be sure to follow ALL of the directions EXACTLY, including the post-installation manual reboot. If you ARE plugged into a hub (L6 is VERY specific about NOT doing that!), plug your device directly into a port on your MAC. If your MAC doesn't have a compatible port I guess you do whatever MAC people do in that case.

That's funny. We all have different ears. I find that I can't get enough bass, which is OK as the edgier sound cuts through the mix better. Go figure! As for I call BS. Are you the same guy who calls himself "Truth Seeker" on TGP?

My guess is that you're trying to mate a dog with a duck. Both start with the same letter, but that's all they have in common.

You must be selecting Dual Legacy. If not, you should try a Factory Reset to see if that fixes it.

I also had a look at the site, and apart from what @toddkc said (RTM), my only suggestion would be to make sure that LT and B-Beat are set to the same MIDI channel.

What @phil_msaid is correct, but not all boards are created equal, and some FOH guys are just flat incompetent (the waitress's current boyfriend). You control the XLR Out level with the Channel Level control, then compensate with the Master. In the event that you have a sound tech that's impossible, having one of these WILL do the trick: Amazon.com: Shure A15AS Switchable Attenuator (15, 20, 25 dB), Passes Phantom Power : Industrial & Scientific Make sure the dummy doesn't have Phantom Power turned on.

The 100 watt version will not be "too much". 1/2 watt is 1/2 watt. If I dime my Cat 100 at 1/2 watt I'll be evicted from my apartment. The Cat60 would be the same. The 60 watt version COULD be not enough in a LIVE band setting. HOWEVER... 60 watts is frelling LOUD. If your drummer is drowning you out, don't worry about getting the 100 watt version, you'll be deaf soon. Fire the drummer. Most clubs these days won't let you get that loud. Most sound techs will tell you to turn down. If FOH needs more volume they'd prefer to take your DI to the board rather than let you kill the patrons in front of the stage with more stage volume. The three main reasons to get the Cat100 vs the Cat60 are: The Cat100's cab is bigger. At moderate volume levels it might seem to sound fuller, especially in the low frequencies. The Cat100 has 5pin MIDI DIN. You don't think you need it now, but you'd be surprised how many people have later regretted not having it. I have a Helix, and the integration is awesome. While the Cat60 has MIDI over USB, it requires a computer or Host device in between. More to carry, more failure points, more setup/teardown time. The cost difference between the CAT100 vs the Cat60 + Host is negligible. KISS! If you practice with headphones, the AUX IN/HP OUT are stereo (the amp itself is not). My advice - get the Cat100. At the current sale price it's a no-brainer!

IOW - attache the offending preset for analysis. :-)

??? OK, you've got me totally battled! I suspect Google translate...

You're talking to yourself. Nobody from L6 hangs out here, and even if by accident someone from L6 happened to see your post, you wouldn't get an answer, it's just not how they roll. FWIW - not everybody wants their sound colored by tubes, which will change their sound over time (sometimes over a few hours at a gig on a hot day), are fragile, expensive and will eventually fail and have to be replaced. Also, the DT25 weighs 47lbs, the Catalyst100 weighs 32lbs., the Powercab 112+ weighs 36 lbs. 10-15lbs might not SOUND like much, but add that to your one-armed Farmer's Carry. Yes, it matters. Die-hard tube-heads love their tubes for the reasons you mentioned, but that matters most at the amp's "sweet spot" which is louder than many of us ever get to play these days. Anyhow, I'm pretty sure that a "tube Powercab" has been suggested, go to Ideascale, do a search and VOTE for it, or post a new idea if it hasn't already been.

So why didn't you attach THAT preset??? Attached is the solution. Your FX Loop L is pre-split so it goes to both sides, the amp+cab (Path B) comes out the RIGHT Main Out to FOH, Path A (with delay for demo purposes) comes out the LEFT Main Out. 80s AF Mod1.hlx

The MAIN Outs are balanced, therefore better for a long run to FOH, which is why the more common method is to place a SEND before the A+C and take that to your stage amp/monitor. To avoid the need to burn a block, take the SEND L (TS cable from the SEND Jack) to a DI box if the distance to FOH is more than 20 feet to avoid possible noise/signal degradation. Less than 20 feet you should be OK, but in either scenario a DI Box also provides a Ground switch in case that's a problem. Also, center the Pans on your SplitY or change it to an A/B Split with the default "Even Split" so that the full signal goes to both your amp and FOH.

The Powercab is essentially an FRFR in the form of a guitar cab with additional playback modes: It can be used in normal FRFR Mode (coaxial HF Driver engaged), same as you're currently doing. In LF RAW Mode (the Eminence speaker with coaxial HF Driver OFF). Some prefer to hear their Helix loaded IRs/Cabs this way as it's less "fizzy" than FRFR, but I prefer this mode with NO IR/Cab as IMO it sounds the most "AITR". In LF Flat Mode (The Eminence speaker EQ'd to be FLAT and with the coaxial HF Driver OFF). Same reasoning as for LF RAW. You can also use it in FRFR Mode with IRs loaded on the Powercab instead of in Helix (USER IR Mode), which would give the results you described. There's also Speaker Emulation Mode, where the Eminence speaker is EQ'd to sound like specific classic speakers. This mode is intended to provide "AITR" with "authentic" speaker emulations. Some people love it, some hate it. Try it, YMMV. Naturally, in Speaker Emulation Mode, as with USER IR Mode, your FX would be BEFORE the IR or Emulated Speaker. You might want to consider it like this - if you're after "AITR", a normal guitar rig would have the FX BEFORE the cab, and no frelling tweeter, just a speaker in a box. If you're after "the sound on the record", the FX and EQ's are often added in post by the recording engineer (what you're doing now) and you hear it played back through full-range speakers (your stereo or FRFR). Using FX before IRs/Cabs then through FRFR gives you the sound closest to what the audience hears at a concert. Powercab gives you all three options. FWIW - I had a PC112+ but traded it in on a PC212+ for the added fullness of the 2x12 cab and the stereo functionality, which is surprisingly good for two speakers in a single cab. At the full spread setting it sounds like the speakers are around 6' apart! Of course, it's bigger and heavier than the PC112+, so if you plan on taking it out a lot there's that to consider. Hope this helps.

Specify what you're using (HXS? Floor? LT? Rack?), what you're sending to (amp? PA? Stuffed Buffalo?) and attach a copy of the preset for analysis (NOT a screenshot!).

Had mine since 2016. The combination of the addition of Snapshots, CommandCenter, the new cabs and the higher resolution made Helix a whole new experience IMO. The creation of Native eliminates the previously tedious re-amping process. And they're not done improving it. Yes, it's worth the cost.

This zombie thread is going on 5 years dead. You might want to define EXACTLY what it is that you're trying to do.

Global Settings>MIDI/Tempo>MIDI PC TX = ON This automatically sends the default PC# to the second HXS.

Ideascale has a moderator??? :-) Keep trying. Unfortunately, nobody from L6 hangs out here.