Schmalle

If lows aren't there all is left is highs and highs alone are harsh.Or in other words too much above 1kHz is synonymous with not enough below Make sure the PA sounds balanced as well as your presets. Also mind the Fletcher Munson effect. Btw it's the same with headphones: a preset sounds right on one , on the next bass heavy, on the next harsh, on the next honky and so on.

https://line6.ideascale.com/

I second that: My DT770s are the first thing I use to get the basic tone from scratch. Those sound good and well balanced through my Neumann KH120A's. BUT: When I do it the other way round (Neumanns first then headphones) my ears tend to adjust to the room I'm in and presets sound less good on headphones later.

JTM 45 low gain preset for headphones BE100 low gain preset for headphones Try 'em - report back. You're welcome!

Questions out of curiosity: 1. Does the channel change to Clean when OD is selected on the amp and you plug a the cable only in the amp? 2. Does the channel change from Clean to OD when the cable connects the amp and the Helix? 3. Does plugging in the cable increase audible hum?

You're welcome! Don't treat my writeup as gospel though. For this on the other hand you have my blessing: Yek's Guide to the Fractal Audio Amp Models Most of the info Yek provided apply to the Helix. And for geeks like me it's just fun to learn about the history and function of amplifiers.

I've worked with these models a lot. I love all three of them and they are my favorite models in the Helix. Some tips: SLOs sound good with a lot of speakers but they love Vintage 30s.The 2x12 Interstate with 20 Dyn or 160 Ribn at 3.5" is the best Helix cab for that IMHO. SLOs get their sound from the preamp - it's master volume is designed to control volume not distortion. When you increase the master the top frequencies will stop getting louder at some point first - that's what some call the 'sweet spot', because it can add roundness and sustain, judge for yourself if that's what you want. I tend to keep things below that because the sound stays open and consistent below this 'sweet spot'. Soldanos go to 11! A knob at 5 on the SLO is a 4.5 on the Helix. [5.0 * 10 / 11 =4.54] The starting point for Clean and Crunch should be Bass, Mids, Treble, Presence at 4.5, Master at 3. The starting point for Lead IMHO is Bass and Presence at 4.5, Mids and Treble at 6.3, Master at 3. It loves the Stupor OD. I like it with Drive 3, Tone 2.7, Level 5 and I reduce the Mids on the amp for that. A Teemah! can push the Crunch channel to sound close to the Lead channel. The Clean channel is the a tamed version of Crunch channel so you can use Crunch with low Drive and high Master as Clean without hesitation. Combine that and you can stuff all 3 SLO channels in a preset using snapshots [EDIT] SLO's nowerdays have a Depth control, because that was a common mod on the original ones to fatten the sound. To simulate use a Low Shelf and start with +3.5dB at 800Hz. This will make a huge difference and the amp will sound a lot more balanced and modern. I spoke with an owner of a SLO some years ago who played in a Dire Straits cover band. He used the SLO's clean channel with pretty much everything at noon and a Marshall 4x12 V30's cab live and sounded absolutely wonderful. - The Helix nails that sound.

Proposal: MIDI-CC "On/Off by value" option Currently MIDI control change (CC) messages 49 to 58 are implemented to "Emulate Stomp footswitch mode" by toggling the footswitch (FS) irrespective of the message value. An "On/Off by value" option should be added: a CC message value of zero would turn the FS off, a non-zero value would turn it on. This enables: multiple CC-Messages can switch multiple functions reliably the On-state and the Off-state can be split in to different MIDI-controller buttons the MIDI-controller state indicator (LED) reliably shows the Helix FS state (if CCs are also sent after each PC) Vote: Ideascale: Footswitches via MIDI Control Change: On-Off by value option

The Deluxe Vibrato channel has boosted high frequencies due to it's bright cap. The more drive you add the less the level of boost. In essence you've chosen a fizz magnifier as amp. Try the Placater Clean with bass at 0 and try the different bright settings and get a feel of how they interact with the drive setting of the amp. I've attached a preset with 3 snapshots with different high end aka "air" aka "fizz" as a starting point. If you i.e. increase gain they'll start to sound more different. Clean Highend.hlx

Also consider the precision gate:

A trick to adjust the gate: disengage noise gate in the input block insert a looper as first block looper: record some guitar played with the dynamic range that you want the preset to handle insert a dynamics->noise gate block after the looper listen and adjust copy these settings to the input block erase the looper and noise gate blocks

I'd go for the Essex A30. It is a model of a top boost channel which gives you an extra dose of british jangle. But I think all Essex and Fawn models are a good choice and it depends on what you would define to be "The Beatles Sound".

Welcome! 1. In Preset Mode: left and middle switches together -> bank down middle and right switches together -> bank up 2. Press both turning knobs together to switch to/from bypass mode 3. Don't understand the question. You know HX Edit exists? Get it here

The Line6 DC3H adapter is rated 3A which means it can easily handle both units. This way they have the same ground. You just need a split adapter cable.

For Gary Moore'ish high gain try the Meteor preamp with midboost engaged, bass cranked, low treble. It's fun.

|X-----------------------| Note played |----x-----x-----x-----x-| Swing delay |1-----2-----3-----4-----| Main beats |1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3-| Ternary eights Is this what you want to achieve?

1. It depends on which channel you use on the Deluxe since the Vibrato channel is significantly brighter and hotter. 2. It depends on the clean/crunch settings and volume you use. 3. It depends on what you imagine is a Plexi sound is. In front of a Deluxe normal channel to have some plexi'esque fun my favourites are: pedal: Coḿpulsion Drive preamp: Brit Trem Brt Interestingly both were mentioned before so there seems to be some common ground.

The current list of amps is not random - there is some rough order in it: early fendery boutiqu'ish voxy classic british high gain british high gain american Line6 customized

Take the Derailed Ingrid as an example for why this will not work: It can sound like the sweetest fender. But it's doing the british plexi stuff as good as any plexi I've heard. And it's more high gain than you ever would need.

If the mic needs phantom power it's not compatible directly and via the impedance converter.

You can't set the loop send and return in different ways. I'd suggest to set input, send/return and output level to instrument, because that won't boost the instrument signal. Meaning if you disengage comp, phaser and the two distortion the level the amp gets is unchanged vs directly plugging into the amp. You could use the L Output signal of the Stomp to feed the return of the amp and the R Output to PA. That would require the last block to be an IR that only applied on the right channel - use path B and the mixer pan parameters hard left/right to achieve that.

Ok, if your volume know wasn't very low when in DSP Bypass and it the device was mute, but wasn't at startup (when it is Analog bypassed) it is definitely a hardware defect. My best advice is to open a support ticket.

There are two bypass modes: Analog and DSP Bypass. Does Analog Bypass cause the device to produce a clicking noise (the relais switching on and off)? Does the DSP Bypass work or does it mute the device? Does a blank preset act as a bypass? BTW: great post, detailed, mentionend a lot of relevant infos...

I can't confirm / replicate that. In my Stomp I can't bring the Dynamic Hall reverb to clip. To try I cranked an amp model and boosted it's output signal 12dB into the DH and it didn't clip.

Here is a reversible 9V out mod for you: