Digital-sound

I understood it that the trim tracking does not increase level. It is there to prevent signals from clipping if they get to hot. That is how it reads in the manual. I don't think it will ever increase volume/gain. It is there "to avoid distortion without changing the channels overall volume" (from the manual).

You won't find an easier, better sound than the m20d and the l3 series speakers. You will find a satisfying sound, but not the "wow" sound you will get with the line 6 speakers and the m20d. And you will need NOTHING else for sound. No external eq, FX, processor. Nothing. And you will have GREAT sound.

Thanks scotterp, I was certain I saw it somewhere. Sounds like it may not be relevant to the OP issue, but glad to know again.

That is when it happened to us too. It really seems it must be vibration. I am certain that is what happened in my case.

Yes, agree. I was looking for the info on the speakers. I will have a listen and see....hear. I can't find it using search..,I found it odd as well for how it has always been in most speakers.

Yes, correct, there are 2 - 10" woofers with a tweeter in the middle, but, the sound from each 10" woofer is not the same. The top one is set up to produce the lower end. I am not sure if this is in all modes or not. As I said, I haven't checked it out myself, I have only read about it on here....somewhere...

I have had a couple strange issues, but none quite like this. I have managed to explain all but one, and that is my aux A cutting out, but it isn't just an instrument, it is the output level. Just drops off completely. I am not sure if auto trim is a problem, as it doesn't "increase" the level. Only decreases. Unless it was being applied, and then "acting up" by being removed. So I guess turning it off, and making sure to set the input gains correctly, will be a good test.

What is the other I put you switched to? Was it 2 - 6? Or was it 7-12? I am just wondering if it was in the other "group". You can put phantom power on 1-6, or 7-12.

All went very well. No sound trouble at all. Definitely have to concur it is a cable, or a jack. Call it whatever, but it is related to "breaking a connection" when the speakers re-enumerate.

No cables in the closest cities to me. They are not large cities though. I will have to order them. In the meantime, I went back to the venue. Our problem was affecting all the signals. My chain started with the one floor monitor we use. So I am suspecting that. I wired the speakers in the opposite setup now. Went to a sub on one side, up to the main, then over to the other sub, and then the other main, and finally to the monitor. And now, if the monitor was the problem, and the guitar player maybe moved or kicked it, it will only be that speaker that goes down. However, if it happens the same as last night, it is probably safe to assume it is the board. Using a new cable (but still not the proper one). I just finished playing around with unplugging different speakers. I also set the "auto config" to "off" so when one does get connected, nothing happens to the others. Again, unless it is the first one. I also laid out some other cables so I am ready to switch to analog outs in about a minute. But I also noticed last night, when I went to analog, the left output was quieter than the right. I had to put the left speaker gain pot to almost the 3 o'clock position to match the right which was at the 12 o'clock position. I even rebooted everything to make sure it was all reset. I forgot to double check that this afternoon but will before we play tonight so I can be ready for when the little "gremlins" show up to "help" us out! Ha!

I have now become a victim of this problem. And because I had read this thread, I put up the L6 assignment page on my ipad to watch while I played. And sure enough, I could watch it resetting everything. Just like a cable was unplugged. But I have been playing with this for about a year now. All standard XLR cables, with a 50' length, and even a couple 3' pieces I use to make set up more convenient. So a couple connections in the run too! Crazy, but worked awesome for almost a year. Now, I am gonna do it right and see if it helps. If it is a loose connection, I suppose it won't help. But at least I will have the correct cables, and no connections between speakers. Just speaker to speaker. Will update my findings.

Another thing to remember about the L3 is the "bottom" is at the top when standing upright. Bass comes from the top speaker. I have only read that in this forum....I have never actually checked it out.

Go for the L3 though if you can afford it. I have both and just find it much easier to get a better sound out of the L3. Both are good speakers, but the L3 is better. And get the "t" as well. Ya just never know what you might want to use it for someday.....wish I got the "t" versions of the L2's....still give myself a kick once in a while....even though they are 95% used as floor monitors....there have been times when I wish.....

My previous setup sounded great and I relied heavily on a dbx driverack. I used to "pink" each room we played in, made minor adjustments, and then saved it. Worked very well. I was told a better way to use it was to do the "pinking" outside with the speakers until a flat response was achieved (using the procedure on the dbx forums). I never did this well. So I just continued to do it in the rooms we played. And right or wrong, it worked very well for us as I said. Once I purchased my m20d and 2-l3s and 2-l3t, which come already with a flat response, I immediately understood why the time should be put in to "tune your speakers". You then have very little EQ to do in any room. My long winded point is, I don't think you need it. I find there is so little EQ to do, it is not worth the time for the small improvement you will get through analyzing. Connect using the L6 linking so gain structure is correct, and then pick a preset (I use the same one everywhere), and then MAYBE, a little on the "quick tweak" for the main outs. I too am the trusty bass man/sound man in our cover band. My ear is not pro either, but I do know a good sound. And we have it, and it is easy, and we use no EQ other than the M20d. I don't even use the EQ on the speakers (via L6 link). And I have had my good sound confirmed by many other musicians and sound guys that have heard us and compliment it. Less is more. And in the case of this Line 6 system, less is WAY more.

This is what I have to do as well. Arne said it shouldn't be like that and it will be a fix in the next release. If you have a set up saved, and then create a scene, and save it, and then turn the board off, and then turn the board back on, there will likely be reverb on your aux sends at least. Even if you save the scene with no reverb on the aux sends. And it is pretty high too. But as long as you turn the board on, and then load the setup, and then the scene, you will be good. Usually this is fine for people who maybe are used to different setups/scenes. But for me, where the band rarely changes, I have times where I would just power up the board and go. Like if we did sound check, saved everything powered down, then showed up for gig and powered up. Reverb on the aux. But fortunately, it is an easy fix. Just an extra step. Here is something new to try. Create a setup, then a scene. Save the setup and the scene. Then, change your scene around a bit...levels, etc. Save it. With a different name even. Power down the board. Power up. Try to find the last scene you saved. I couldn't. Every time. Reinstalled firmware too. A couple times. The only way I can save my scenes is to save the setup AFTER I have saved the scene. And I must do this every time I change the scene and want to keep it for longer than the current gig. So load set up, load scene, modify scene, save scene, save setup, and all is good. If I skip the last "save setup" after altering and saving the last scene I was on, the scene is lost on power cycle.

The only time it have used deep tweak was to adjust the high pass filter on my bass, and to eq the audio coming into channels 17/18 which is my mini mac. Otherwise, I haven't used it much. We used it a bit on the kick drum too. I definitely understand it, but just don't have the need. I manually set the input gain using the "trim". And then I leave the trim tracking on all tracks. But I am not aware of the input gain settings in the deep tweak mode.

Good idea. Recording them for a few hours would definitely let me know if anything is happening without touching it. Things changed in much less than an hour even. It does seem intermittent, but has not been happening for very long. Just started a couple weeks ago. No gigs this weekend so will have time to test. It seems like a "no brainer" cable problem. But plugging the same cable into the Baux worked fine. But I will continue to troubleshoot. Thanks,

I am not the most computer literate, but I understand "firmware" to be very similar to "software". Maybe a bit of a combination of software and hardware? But if it is at all like software, then it may be safe to assume the same problems may very well not pop up on every unit. We all use them differently, with very different demands on the system. And likely very different procedures and steps to do similar functions. I think we all know that what happens in one persons software, may never happen in another person's software who may be using the exact same version of the software. Or, is firmware much different from software and far more similar to hardware?

In my case, the level drops. I noticed it in my A aux only. Which is connected to an IEM system. I had to turn the monitor send all the way up, and then turn the input level all the way up. It is the Shure psm 200 system. With both levels on full, I could hear signal, and the LED on the shure system was lighting up green ocasionally. (It should be red and distorted at that level). I switched the aux over to the other IEM unit (same brand/model) and the same problem. Extremely low signal. I switched cords of course, and I tried Aux B in both units which worked fine. I backed up presets, and did the firmware reinstall procedure. It worked fine. I restored my backup, and still working fine. I went to the gig and set up. Not working. Reinstall firmware and restore backup, and all is good again. Came back to do the gig....not working! Same issue....extremely low input level). I switched the cord from Aux A to Aux D and it was fine. Aux D was supplying a L2m floor monitor so I exchanged the two so I could use the L6 link on the instead of the XLR out. I didn't try the firmware reinstall due to time. So on my case, when set up using the L6 link, everything works as expected with monitor sends. But, when using the XLR out, I have this problem. It could be the jack in my case. I had asked before, but will ask again. Is there a way for me to confirm a faulty jack without sending it in? Because I do admit, it could purely be a fluke that it worked after reinstalling firmware.

I have not altered much more than the main volume for the last several gigs. I too am truly happy with this system many months after buying it. Constantly being complimented on our sound. This system really does what it was built to do. And easily. I am impressed every time we set up.

Agree with headphone issue. Don't know about using all 16 channels. I only use 8. But sometimes, I notice a very slow setup or scene loading. Used to be almost instant. I only have a coupe setups, with one or two scenes each. It was definitely after the last firmware update, but, it is far from unbearable for me. And there is a couple other issues that I know Line 6 is aware of. I am still going to be investigating my "in and out" aux A channel which I don't believe is hardware related. But can't say for sure. Going to try the idea in the other post. And I haven't had any encoder light up unexpectedly. But I guess firmware. It is a heck of a board, and I don't know the testing procedures, but surely everything could not be tested? Every combination of something we might do? I know I would be thinking "But who would EVER do that???". I am not a programmer, and have no idea what goes on. I would always be a beta tester though.

Maybe, something to try, once you have the system configured to your liking, turn off the "auto assign" in the L6 link menu. If it isn't related to a cable movement, and is something the board has decided to do on it's own, this should prevent it. Something I would try anyway.

Interesting. I keep trim tracking on everything, but generally, I only use 8 channels. However, I will try what you did. Interesting you managed to figure out it was the trim tracking. I will try that update my experience this weekend. (JeffersteinVS - sorry to hijack thread a little)

I don't have that problem, but will mention something similar. I have just started losing the Aux A output. It is intermittent. Can't recreate all the time. I thought I solved it with a firmware reinstall. All seemed good. But then setting up for the gig, it was gone. It doesn't go completely, just has to be cranked full, and then the IEM body pack on fill too. And it is still a little quiet. At the gig, I power cycled twice and it came back to normal. But an hour later, just before the start of the gig, it was very faint again. Have changed cord a couple times of course. Not sure if it is hardware of software. We use all four aux sends, but one is on the L6 link so I mapped the Aux A to be that one, and all is good. I assume it will have to go for service t check the jack? To determine if it is hardware? Seems odd the jack would go. The cord is never removed from it and it is permanently racked with the cord going to a Shure IEM system. So doesn't get banged or unplugged. But is packed around so there is a possibility. But I know there is a headphone problem too that I am pretty sure is not hardware too. It has been mentioned before in another thread. Also, when it does come back, it isn't after moving the cord. It seems more related to a power cycle or firmware reinstall.

Does anyone get this rattle when using the L3s, and an L2 or L3, connected via line 6 link or at least some kind of crossover (even just connected as suggested, into the L3s first, and then the L2 or L3. I am not saying the speaker shouldn't perform as expected without the sub/crossover. I am more suggesting that the problem may not happen to when using with a sub. Tinorios, you used an L3s. Maybe try the same test on the speakers without the L3s. Maybe just direct into the speaker?