cruisinon2

You absolutely can switch patches with a single click. There is an option in the "settings"menu where you can switch between different footswitch modes. It can be set for either toggling fx with all 8 buttons, or having the bottom row (labeled A/B/C/D) for patch switching.

Amen...

Music store gear-jockeys say lots of things...often having absolutely nothing to do with the reality that the rest of us share. In all likelihoood, the batteries had never been charged at all.

For gigging, it's about your comfort level. If I bring gear that I'm not happy with, or otherwise unsure about to a show, it's usually reflected in my performance...now there may or may not be anyone else in the room who can tell, but I certainly can. Whenever I get a new piece of gear, I work with it for a quite a while at home and at rehearsals until I'm comfortable enough to gig with it. I've often felt that it's one of my shortcomings as a player...being a little too dependent on "my" gear. I've known guys who can sit it with a band on someone else's axe, amp, etc...and kill it. Not me...lol. No familiarity, no good.

Like the wine snob and the "foodie", a lot of guys only think they can tell the difference.... Many, including tons of very good, experienced players would fail a blind test...and be terribly embarrassed by it. So they'll stick to their "nothing will ever compare to tubes" Gospel (and the herniated discs that often accompany them, lol) forever. By never giving modeling a chance, they can sleep soundly knowing they haven't "polluted their musical groundwater", so to speak. To each their own...

I got a cheapo Gator case for mine. They're sold all over the place...you can find 'em online. Neighborhood of 50-60 bucks (maybe less? don't remember). More than adequate for around the house and local gigging (unless you really throw stuff around), but not a "road case". If I were touring Europe, I'd get something more substantial. It's a generic solid body guitar case, basically made for anything close to a Strat's dimesions.

County Commissioner in Leon County, FL...

Everybody will have 27 different models to choose from. There are cans made specifically for singers to use for tracking in a vocal booth...on aTuesday, with a full moon, after having had a tuna melt for lunch. Try 'em out...if you don't like them, then I'm sure you can swap them for something else, as long as you haven't slobbered on them or anything...

POD has no power section, so you need something else to drive a cabinet. Either a dedicated power amp, or a head, preferably with an FX loop so you bypass the head's preamp.

Sorry, never used the Sony's...you really just want something that were designed for mixing, or other studio applications...something with a fairly flat response, otherwise you'll tend to have issues trying to use any patches set up with those cans thru an FRFR speaker / PA. I wouldn't try and tweak patches with a pair of "Beats"...might be great for listening to music, but not necessarily this application.

Lol...I love people.

Could be...like I said, lotsa good choices. Never used the ATs, but if you like 'em, and they get results...then they're good. :) Hell, these things are $4500.00 : https://www.staxusa.com/earspeaker/stax-sr-009.html ...not sure what that gets you, except the ability to say "I spent $4500 on a pair of headphones".

I see where you're coming from...but I think that at least some of it is little more than perceived wisdom. Some guys will only ride Harleys...just because. But that doesn't mean that nobody else makes a good motorcycle. Change is always feared, and the familiar difficult to part with. Old vs. new too often becomes a good vs. evil comparison. And I'm no stranger to tube rigs. For years I carted around a Marshall 9100 power amp, a 25th Anniversary Silver Jubilee 4x12 (that I just finished restoring with new everything, tolex, all the hardware...turned out great, but I digress...) with a variety of tube pre-amps, pedals, and multi-fx units. But I can't say that my current set-up is any less satisfying...there's still an "amp in the room". The L2T is still pushing air. Loud is loud. There just aren't any pretty, glowing orange lights...but I like it just as much, if not better. And it's not just because I'm not 25 anymore, and lifting heavy things comes with a price...that 9100 is a boat anchor... The modeling is so friggin' close to the real deal, that for live use it's nearly indistinguishable. If I were to A/B the two rigs side by side, in an otherwise quiet room, or the controlled environment of a studio, maybe there are some subtle differences to pick out...but not enough to make me abandon the flexibility, and the variety of tones I can coax out of this thing. Or perhaps I've gone deaf...lol ;) I dunno...they both have their place. Currently enjoying the digital ride...YMMV.

To some extent, this is like asking "what's the best micro-brew?"....lots of opinions, and nobody is "right" or "wrong". Many good choices. $250 will get you some nice cans, but you don't need to spend that much. Can't say I agree with the assessment of the AKG's in the post above...but as always, these things are subjective. The AKG K240 Studio (K240S) have long been my favorite. They have a very flat response, great for tweaking and even mixing multi-track stuff. Had one pair for 15+ years before they died...newer ones come with a replaceable cord, because that's what usually craps out...long before the drivers will anyway. And they're generally in the neighborhood of $100. No matter what you choose, look for something with an open, or semi-open back design. Fully enclosed headphones tend to artificially pump up the low end...if you tweak that way, your patches will tend to lack bottom end when you play them through anything with a flatter response.

Will it work? Yes. It's a speaker cabinet and a head. Sound will come out. Use both outputs into the stereo ins on the cab. What no one will be able to do is promise beyond a shadow of a doubt that the160W rating is sufficient to avoid blowing a speaker. On paper, it should be, especially if you're not running full-tilt all the time. However, there are no gaurantees. Conventional wisdom says use a cab rated for 1.5-2x the amp wattage, then you don't have to think about it. 150 vs 160 watts is a much closer ratio than that. You could use it for years without a problem, or you could blow it up in five minutes...nobody will be able to tell you definitively one way or the other. Personally, I don't think it's likely that you'll fry anything. But unlikely doesn't mean impossible. If it were me, I'd be looking for a different cabinet.

Everything eventually gets replaced. Same way you can't buy a vehicle with a carburetor in it anymore, sooner or later the demand for tubes will drop so low that it will no longer be cost effective for anyone to make them...and even if they do continue to be made in small batches somewhere, they will get so expensive that it will price out all but the wealthiest of customers. It already costs $200-$250 to retube an amp, last time i did it anyway 2 or 3 years ago. How many people will be willing to do that when it's $1000 each time? Ultimately it won't matter anyway...eventually there will be a generation that learns to play with nothing but modeling amps, and they won't feel the "need" for analog gear because they will never have even stood in the same room with one (except maybe in a museum), let alone played one. Can't miss the "good old days" if you never had any...

Isn't that the worst? When you pull up a patch you haven't used in a while and have to ask yourself if perhaps you had cotton balls shoved in your ears that day?

It's probably OK...unless you plan on red-lining the amp on a regular basis. These are 150 solid state watts too...if it were a tube head, u might be pushing your luck.

150W minimum...generally advisable to go a bit over so you run less risk of pushing speakers too hard and blowing them. Maximum is really not a concern...you're not gonna find any 2x12's rated for 1000W anyway. The 4x12 Spider cab that L6 sells specifically for that amp is rated at 320W, and it's wired with stereo inputs, because that's how that head is designed to work. There's no bridged mono option, and if you try an run only one output, sooner or later you will destroy the amp. Impedance rating is same thing. 8 ohms per side, minimum. You could run a pair of 16ohm cabs if you wanted to, you just won't get as loud.

I'm sure they're saving at least 12 cents each this way...

WHAT?!?!? It's just not a Friday night if you don't scream yourself hoarse ordering a beer...lol

The VDI that came with the guitar is only indented for use with the USB interface and connecting to a computer for firmware updates, or editing in Workbench. True, it's not a robust connection, but it doesn't really need to be...it's not intended to be used under typical playing conditions.

1) Enough to handle the amp's claimed output 2) Should match the load that the amp is expecting to see. If it says "4 ohms minimum load" then the cab needs to be at rated at least 4 ohms. You can go higher, but you'll lose power. 3) BOTH of those outputs are expecting to see a speaker load on the other end...if you only connect one and you push it hard enough, you will eventually blow the amp.

You can destroy anything. Nothing in the universe is 100% safe...every computer I've ever owned has eventually "bricked" itself. Don't see why the JTV would be any different.

Seriously...I mean for $500, you'd think that you'd at least get a trip to the islands, or maybe a pony with it. (For any L6 customer care guys lurking around here...if you decide to go the pony route, I'd like a white one named George) Hell, I'd even settle for a lifetime supply of picks and strings...something to make all my effort worthwhile. Do they care about their customers, or what?!?!?! :P Ugh...if it did make sandwiches, somebody would demand a "panini" option in the next firmware update.