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Everything posted by deadlocked

  1. deadlocked

    Sound Level

    I have the Spider V 60 and I can play it at 20-30% Master volume and it is loud enough to fill in my basement without being loud enough to upset my wife upstairs. If you want really low volume, you can set the Master volume at 10-20% and it should be OK... or you can get an FBV 3/Shortboard/Express, then set the Master volume at the Max level that you would want to play at and use the volume pedal on the FBV3/Shortboard/Express to set it as loud as you want on each patch. If you go down this route, I would suggest to make sure the volume effect is enabled on all patches that you plan to use (you can edit each tone, enable the volume pedal if it is not and then re-save the tone), or those tones that have the volume effect disabled will come in at full blast. This is what I did, BTW, and when I turn on the amp, I always have my volume pedal set to heel position, then just rock it until it is the volume I want and play away. It helps that I also level-matched the tones so that they are similar in volume; this will be even more important if you download tones from the cloud, as they most likely be all over the place as far as volume is concerned. Spider V 30, as you already guessed, will not get you very far in a jam/gig situation (unless the rest of the band are really quiet, or you play mostly acoustic jams/gigs in small bars, etc) and the 60 might still struggle to keep up with a loud band, so I would suggest that while you check out the 60 at the store, also check the 120, just in case.
  2. Did you also try a factory reset after the firmware update? The FAQ below has the instructions on how to perform it. i have read on the forums that for some people who had all lights flashing, a factory reset made the madness stop. http://line6.com/support/page/kb/_/amplifi-products/ampl/amplifiseriesfaq The relevant portion is: Q: How can I reset the AMPLIFi to its default settings? A: To perform a factory reset and restore a AMPLIFi 75, 150, or TT to factory settings press and hold Master Volume knob and Tone button as you power up the unit, keep holding them both down until you see the LED's around the Master Volume knob light up. To perform a factory reset and restore the AMPLIFi FX100 to factory settings press and hold the Master Volume knob and the TAP button as you power up the unit, keep holding them both until you see '01' in the LED display.
  3. Login to Line6.com/account and click on "Purchase History" on the left side of the window. You should see at the top or near the op of the page under "Account Activity" a line with "Cubase LE8". If you click on "Details" to the left under "Order #", it should take you to the page that has the link to the digital download and activation code for Cubase LE8. If it does not, I would suggest to contact Line 6 Customer Support and they can sort you out.
  4. Wow, that's even more strange. If you are having issues when you plug in the FBV2 *before* you turn on the amp but not after, it would go contrary to Line 6 recommendation in general, which is exactly to plug in the FBV *before* you turn on the amp. Now that you mentioned that you have an FBV2, I think I know the reason why you are experiencing issues: On the link below, you will see that, while the FBV2 is not shown as "not working" with Spider V, it is also not shown as "working" either. http://line6.com/support/page/kb/_/effects-controllers/fbv-mki-mkii-controllers/the-complete-line-6-pedal-compatibility-faq-r58 My theory is that FBV2 is not supported on Spider V and that is causing issues. FBV2 does not have an expression pedal to control volume or wah, but maybe... just maybe... when you connect it, the Spider V might *think* it's an FBV Express with volume pedal in the "heel" position and drops the channel volume down to 0 on some patches and that is why you do not hear sound. I do not have an FBV2 to try, but... if you connect your phone/tablet to the Spider V and check the patches that do work vs the ones that do not... maybe the patches that do have sound also happen to have the volume pedal effect disabled (therefore, output volume would be unaffected on those patches by whichever foot controller is plugged in? Also, Did you try to contact Yamaha in the UK for support? Not sure they can even help, but maybe they can at least point you in the right direction. Oh also to rule in/out the FBV2 as the source of the issues, Do you happen to know someone with an FBV Express MKII, a Shortboard MKII or an FBV3 who would let you borrow it for a short time to test? I bet if the FBV2 is the source of your issues, that it will go away if you use one of the supported pedal boards. For optimal use of the amp I would not recommend the Express, though, as you are limited to one bank out of the Spider V's 32 banks. A Shortboard MKII or an FBV3 will allow full use of all the tone switching functions that the Spider V supports.
  5. Hi Gareth, I replied to your IM. Hmmm. I have not seen this one before. Usually when an amp quits working, none of the presets work. How did you perform a factory reset? Did you use a button combination or did you press and hold the HOME button, then scrolled down to the bottom "Factory Reset" and pressed down on the rotary knob? If you did not reset via the HOME button, I would suggest you do so. Also, what FW version are you on? I am on the latest 1.02, you might also want to upgrade if you're not on the latest, as the release notes say that presets were improved. Oh, one more thing... Did you check under settings whether you have the knobs set to Absolute or Relative? some people like relative, but Absolute ensures that turning the knobs really sets them where they should be. Once done, try one of the patches that do not work anymore and turn the VOLUME know (not the master) all the way up (make sure you are in AMP mode) and then give the MASTER knob a few turns all the way up and down (just in case it's got some dirt that prevents it from working). If this doesn't work, I'll try to think of something else, but it might also be time to give Line 6 support a call. Since the Spider V series is brand new, I'm sure it's still under warranty.
  6. Have you tried unplugging everything else that is tied to a USB port or hub (except AmpliFi, keyboard and mouse, of course) and see if the crackling stops? If it does, then start adding your USB devices back one at a time until the crackling resumes, then you have the culprit. I have a Helix and a TC-Helicon VoiceLive 3x connected at the same time on my computer (I know, different setup, but same principle) and both the VoiceLive and the Helix feed into an L2T. If I have both on at the same time, I hear crackling noise on the L2T, but if I unplug or power off the VoiceLive *or* the Helix, crackling stops. Apparently my computer does not like both devices on at the same time (I suspect a ground loop between them). Also, if you have the AmpliFi going into the USB port via a hub, try to go straight into the USB port, as some recording interfaces hate USB hubs.
  7. The Line 6 Pedalboard FAQ indicates that the old Longboard (the one that is compatible with Flextone II) is NOT compatible with Spider V http://line6.com/support/page/kb/_/effects-controllers/fbv-mki-mkii-controllers/the-complete-line-6-pedal-compatibility-faq-r58 The old Longboard (with 3-character display) is at the very top of the list. The (newer) Longboard (with alphanumeric display) is a bit further down the list.
  8. Je vais essayer google translate, je suis Canadien, mon français compétence est faible. Vous devez: a) Driver 1.77 installé b) Line 6 Updater V1.10 installé c) Votre Amplificateurs TT travaillant sur la version du firmware 2.10 Ensuite, vous connectez le AmpliFi et allumez-le (il n'y a pas besoin de pousser les boutons tout en tournant sur) exécuter le programme Line 6 Updater connexion. Laissez Line 6 Updater trouver la dernière version et de mise à niveau. Si vous avez encore des questions à après cela, vous pouvez appeler à l'aide Line 6 en Europe. Il y a une ligne d'aide Line 6 (ou Yamaha, je ne suis pas sûr) dans l'UE: Support technique: +49 (0) 4101 303 166 du lundi au vendredi 9 heures-17 heures CET I am going to try google translate, I'm Canadian, but my knowledge of French is very poor. You need: a) Driver 1.77 installed b) Line 6 Updater v1.10 installed c) Your AmpliFi TT working on firmware version 2.10 Then you connect the AmpliFi and turn it on (there is no need to push buttons while turning it on), Run Line 6 Updater and login. Let Line 6 Updater find the latest version and upgrade. If you still have issues after this, you can call Line 6 in Europe for help. There is a Line 6 help line (or Yamaha, I am not sure) in the EU: Technical Support: +49 (0) 4101 303 166 , Mon-Fri 9am – 5pm CET
  9. Yes, install the driver. I do not have the TT, but I have the 30 and my computer will not recognize the device in Line 6 Updater without the drivers installed.
  10. spcjak7221 got it working on PC using VirtualBox. Look at post #19 on the thread below. Basically, it is an Android VM running the Spider Remote App from a Windows 7/8/10 PC. http://line6.com/support/topic/23346-re-does-your-mobile-device-connect/ One caveat is that, with *any* virtualization program, you can only have the USB devices connected to either the host (the PC itself) or the VM (the Android Spider Remote), you cannot do both at the same time, so if you want to record on your PC while adjusting the tones at the same time, it may not be possible to do so.
  11. I have the Spider 60 and I love it. I will let you all in on a little secret: If you have both the AmpliFi app and the Spider Remote app you can search tones for songs in your local music library on the AmpliFi app, download them there and then go to the Spider Remote app and the downloaded tones will also appear there, as long as you used the same Line 6 account to login to both... So I got a few decent Blink-182, Ataris and Green Day tones that way, but you are not limited to Rock and Punk tones, you can find tones from classic rock, blues all the way to current stuff. Even if the downloaded tones are not 100% there, you can find ones that are pretty close to what you want and tweak them. I found a few U2 tones that only needed a bump up in presence and a bump down in bass to be just the way I wanted them.
  12. That's the one I have. There are 32 banks of 4 tones each, so you get 128 tones total. If you plan to use them all (or more than just a handful of them), I would strongly suggest getting an FBV Shortboard MKII or an FBV 3 (if you don't already have one), as they will allow you to bank up and down much faster.
  13. I have seen reports of similar issues elsewhere on the Line 6 boards. Line 6 has FAQ with answers to a lot of questions an also there is a help page (post #16 has a pic of an adapter that you might want to try on your PR-4E). The short answer is that it happens a lot with guitars that have active pickups if (whether by design or not), voltage is applied to the ring connector on the G10T, if this happens, the G10T can go into "charging" mode whereby it thinks it is in the charger, hence, no signal. FAQ: http://line6.com/support/page/kb/_/live-sound/relay-digital-wireless/relay-g10-faq-r808 http://line6.com/support/page/kb/_/live-sound/relay-digital-wireless/relay-g10-guitar-compatibility-fitelectronics-r817 See post #16 below for a picture of the adapter. Notice that it has to be the "mono" adapter so that it connects the ring and ground together and that allows the G10T to work correctly. http://line6.com/support/topic/20888-attention-g10-owners/ If the L-shape adapter does not work well with your guitar due to the fitting, there are also equivalent inline or short cable extenders that also work well.
  14. deadlocked

    Future of Helix

    ... or they counted full amps and preamps separately.
  15. Fletcher-Munson curve issue? When you edit any patches at "less than stage" volume and then try to bump them up to stage volume, the high and low frequency response will not sound the same. This is due to how the ear is made to work (basically, compresses the high and low frequencies differently from the mid frequencies). so whereas the patch itself has not changed in its frequency spectrum, your ears tell you otherwise. So you *need* to adjust the highs and lows to compensate. How much? it depends on how much louder you are playing live and how your particular ears respond to the gig volumes vs the volume that you created your patches at. Your best bet would be to tweak the patches during practice at gig volume levels, and that may include the Bass/Mid/Treble controls on the amp itself, not necessarily just the EQ. I have read comments here that some gigging players have two sets of patches, one at "home" level (so as to not to be thrown amp first into the street by their spouses) and another set at gig levels. With more than enough spare banks to choose from, you can always copy all of the patches from one bank (the "home" bank) to the "gig" bank and make your adjustments there. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fletcher%E2%80%93Munson_curves
  16. The thread below shows you a couple of ways that you can save the presets that you have edited on your tablet back to the Spider V. Just ignore the part where I say download your tone from the cloud and use your own edits instead. http://line6.com/support/topic/23622-saving-from-the-cloud/
  17. The link below has compatibility info for all of the Line 6 FBV boards. The important line is: "****FBV Express Mark 1 is not officially supported for Spider V, but it will not damage the amp." http://line6.com/support/page/kb/_/effects-controllers/fbv-mki-mkii-controllers/the-complete-line-6-pedal-compatibility-faq-r58 So, they do NOT say whether it will work, but they do say it is unsupported. You may also want to look at the FBV Shortboard MKII. It is only a few dollars more (about USD$20 extra if you buy it used at Guitar Center) and it will give you the full range of functionality that the Spider offers (save for the FBV 3 colored rings, but that's just gravy). The Express MKI, even if you get it to work, will only let you change tones within the current bank, but you will not be able to switch banks. With the Shortboard MKII, you can Bank up and down, select tones within the bank and also turn on/off the comp, reverb and effects 1,2 & 3. If you happen to have a Spider V 60 or higher, it will also control the one-button looper.
  18. I also traded my Spider Jam for the Spider V 60. It is far more flexible and works really well with my IPAD. #1: Yes, you are supposed to see the tones that came with the amp on the app. If you change tones on the Spider, you should see the left hand side of the app change to reflect the tone, if the left hand side never changes, then it is not connected to the Spider V. #2: You must have a lightning connector. Dock (30-pin) connectors will not work, as the IPAD will never connect to the Spider. I do not know what model your 2012 IPAD is, but you need at least an IPAD 4 or newer to have lightning connector support.On the pic below, lightning is the small connector and dock (or 30-pin) is the large connector. You need an IPAD that is compatible with the small connector. I think IPAD 4 or newer (Mini, Mini 2&3, Air, Air2, Pro, but don't quote me on that) should have a lightning connector. https://www.smacktom.com/blog/lightning-connector-vs-30-pin-dock-connector/
  19. I also have an IPAD loaded, JIC my Helix decides to go from Hero to Zero in 6 secs and we have to part ways for weeks. I put BIAS FX, BIAS AMP, JamUp Pro and Mobile POD on the IPAD. I asked my wife once whether she could hear much of a difference between the IPAD and the Helix and she said I sounded like "me" on both.. To this day, I'm not sure whether that was a good or a bad thing, lol
  20. Thanks, Brazzy. Same right back at ya. I'm not really concerned about the brand of the internal speaker or how it is voiced. I just turn of the EQ adjust the sound using the amp knobs or the app until it is as close to what I want as I can get it, then turn on the EQ and fine tune. The only reason I asked was not to try to steer steiny2801 away from opening up the amp and performing a speakerectomy/speaker transplant, but maybe to save steiny some money if all that was needed was an EQ adjustment.
  21. This is all I have been able to find. Basically, the speaker size changes with the Spider V model, but the only description is size and "custom speaker and tweeter". I guess you'd have to open it and see for yourself, but that may void your warranty. http://line6.com/support/page/kb/_/amplifiers/spider-v/spider-v-3060120240-faq-r834 May I ask why you would want to change the speaker? If you are not happy with the frequency response, there is an EQ block on each tone after the cabinet model that you can use to tweak the frequency response. The power rating of the speaker should be the power rating of the amp, I would think, so that a Spider V 60 with 1x10" speaker should be rated at 60W? The only exception would be the Spider V 240, which has 2x12" speakers, which would mean each of the two speakers would handle 120W.
  22. The easiest way I found is to first select the Bank/Preset where you want to store your downloaded tone and then go to the cloud and download the tone. Once you have it in the editor and you have edited it the way you want it, just press and hold the knob under the display; this puts you in save mode, then you can press and hold again to save it or you can change the bank/preset or rename the tone before you press and hold to save it.
  23. If you just want to strum, but want access to all tone banks, the Shortboard MKII will give you everything that you need for the least cash. Forget about what I said about the FBV 3's color-coded rings, as they are not supported on the AmpliFi anyway. or... if you really want to get fancy (not that I am condoning massive merchandise returns anyway, lol), the Spider V 120 in the US costs about USD $100 less than the AmpliFI 150 but it is a much more powerful amp, features-wise (you can edit tones on the amp itself, supports the G10T wireless transmitter - receiver is already built into the amp, has a built-in looper and has better integration with the FBV 3). It might be less loud (150W on the AmpliFi vs 120W on the Spider V) and the tablet or phone is connected via USB, not bluetooth, but you can upgrade to a Spider V 240 (which is stereo) for about the same price of the AmpliFi 150. I do not know pricing in the UK, but I would expect similar savings on the Spider V over there as well. I do prefer the USB connection on the Spider V vs bluetooth on the AmpliFi, as tones load 4-5 times faster from the app on to the Spider V vs the AmpliFi.
  24. You can choose the bank from the remote app (android or IOS) or using an FBV 3 or Shortboard MKII (FBV express will *not* allow you to change banks). How you prefer to do so depends on your budget and preferences. If you do not have much cash to spare and you already have an android or IOS device (phone or tablet), you can use the app to switch banks. All you need to do is to select any tone within the bank that you want from the app's "AmpliFi" section (under "Tones"). If you have access to an FBV 3 or FBV shortboard MKII, you can use the bank up/down footswitches and then select the tone within that bank using the ABCD footswitches. The FBV boards allow you (in addition to banking up and down and selecting tones within the bank) to turn on/off most effects within the currently loaded tone. I already answered a similar question on the thread below, you can see my full answer at the top of the thread. http://line6.com/support/topic/23560-clarity-on-features-of-amplifi-150-for-newbie/
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