deadlocked

Have you checked posts #11 and #15 from adagosto on the thread below? There are others having issues with their own tones saved to Bank 1 Preset A. Maybe it could help leaving the default preset on B1PA and move your own preset elsewhere? If it then crashes when you switch to your own preset, then there is something within the preset that is causing the Amplifi TT to crash. http://line6.com/support/topic/12034-saving-presets-with-amplifi-tt/

So... Got the little guy to replace my venerable but sorely aging Micro Cube and the first two things I noticed were: a) Unlike other Amplifi series amps, it does not have a cellphone/tablet rest slot and it needs one (C'mon, Line 6, there is plenty of room on the top bezel!). b ) No handle to carry it. I have large fingers but still, it is awkward to lift it with one hand. Most table top practice amps I have seen either have a handle or are thin enough that you can easily lift them with one hand, but the Amplifi 30 is just one inch too thick to comfortably and securely lift with one hand. I am as lazy as it gets and I like to carry my guitar in one hand and the practice amp on the other (hate doing more than one trip anywhere, lol). So I got the smallest magnetic cellphone holder (mostly seen in car dashboards) and attached it to the rear portion of the bezel. It came with multiple magnetic plates for cellphone and tablet, so I affixed one to my IPAD Mini 3 and another to my Phone (Samsung Note 4, you know, the NON-exploding kind :D ). Then I got a couple of extra guitar strap pins that I had laying around and attached them to the sides (with the strongest double-sided tape I could find to still be able to remove them if I need warranty service). Now I have a cellphone/iPad holder that keeps the device angled up for easy access and prevents it from sliding all over the place and a handle to carry it around. The magnetic holder can be set to almost any angle desired and it is strong enough to stay in place unless you bump the amp really hard or drop it... then again, if you drop it, nothing will hold the cellphone/iPad in place. Here are the pics.

Are you on IOS 9.0 or above on your IPAD 3? I saw this on the iTunes store page for the Spider Remote app: "Compatibility: Requires iOS 9.0 or later. Compatible with iPhone, iPad, and iPod touch." If so, and multiple people are having issues with IPAD 3 (or lower) maybe the USB connector on the back of the Spider does not support Dock (i.e. non-lightning) cables? If it is possible for you to "borrow" a friend's (newer) IPAD with a lightning connector, you can test to see if it works. FWIW, I have an IPAD Mini 3 that I have used with my Spider V 60 and it does connect, but it disconnects (or hangs) when I switch presets via my FBV Shortboard MKII. I guess the app does not like fast patch changes where the patch changes while the app is still loading the current patch.

There are a number of "bluetooth transmitters" on Amazon in the USD $20-$40 range that could technically do what you want (i.e. plug the transmitter on the headphone jack or some other line-level audio out) to connect to your bluetooth headphones. Unfortunately, everything that I have tried has a very noticeable (and I would say "maddening") delay in it. If you are willing to forgo Bluetooth, you could get wireless headphones (again, Amazon is you friend here) in the 900MHz or 2.4GHz bands (for me, 2.4GHz has less interference) which have negligible delay. Or you can try wireless in-ear monitors, which I know, are far more expensive than BT, but like wireless headphones have negligible delay. In fact, at the core, wireless headphones and wireless in-ear monitors are based on the same technology, i's just a matter of how much you're able/willing to spend for them.

Using one L2T, the output is auto-summed to mono, you do not "need" to do anything to sum it to mono yourself, unless you want something like left channel to L2T and right to FOH and want both L&R to output the same signal. You can do stereo using two L2Ts if you daisy-chain the L6 Link output of the first L2T into the second L2T. I have seen this in documentation, but I do not have 2x L2T to test this, so I am not sure which L2T would become the left channel and which one would be the right channel.

I had similar issues until I realized that setting the mode to "Don't Force" does not mean that the Variax on/off setting changes. I found that if I set the Variax to On or Off as desired via push on the model knob and *then* saving the patch did work. So now, on patches where I want to use the mags, I push the model knob and make sure the light is off and then save the patch; if I want the Variax to use modelling, then I push down the model knob until it is lit and then save the patch like that. You will need to have the Variax mode set to "Per Patch" for this to work. I'm not home to check, but I think it was on the Input block settings, as opposed to the Global Settings, which seemed "odd" to me, as this is a global setting. Once you have it set up as I mentioned here, you can turn Variax modelling on and off as desired per patch.

musiclover7, you obviously meant the one on the bottom right of that pic, right? ;)

Bede, The Helix only supports latching outputs in the AMP control out. The Trio+ *needs* momentary outputs. To control the Trio+, you would need either a MIDI controller, such as the NUX PMS-2 or some circuit that would convert the latching outputs on the Helix to momentary (which would be far more complicated and expensive than the PMS-2). You still have the issue that the FS3X controller converts 3 footswitches to 2 signals (Tip + Ring, with common sleeve). The FS3X achieves this by simulating both footswitches being pressed at the same time via a clever circuit that consists on only two diodes (which you would have to implement separately), otherwise, you would only get access to two out of the three footswitches. So, in short, it is *possible* but either way it is complicated. Other products, such as the Beat Buddy can support latching FS, so they could be controlled either via the AMP control out on the Helix or via MIDI (as the Beat Buddy also supports MIDI) without the need for the PMS-2. Alas, the Beat Buddy doesn't have a looper, but the drum kit is IMHO of better quality than the one in the Trio+ https://www.amazon.com/Devices-Presets-Function-Portable-Switcher/dp/B00P3BPI4Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466990766&sr=8-1&keywords=NUX+PMS-2 http://nuxefx.com/product_detail.php?id=79&id1=52&id2=0

I also got a Trio+ from my wife and I spent the past couple of days trying to figure out how best hook it up to Helix. Due to the way Trio+ routes guitar internally and how it forces you to use TWO outputs if you do not want to apply cabinet emulation to the drums (which would make them sound awful) or to the guitar (which would force you to disable cabs in Helix), I could not figure out a way do this without sacrificing TWO effect loops (good news is... we still have two effect loops left). I have uploaded a patch to custom tone that shows you how I got mine setup (link at the bottom of this post). Basically, the Trio+ requires the clean guitar signal to "learn" each song part and it has an "effects loop" where you put your effects (I basically put virtually the entire Helix patch in the Trio+ effects loop). Then I get the Trio+ "amp out" (guitar + looper, no cab emulation) and feed it back to the Helix and sum it to the Trio+ "mixer out" (bass + drums). Why did I waste 2 FX loops on the Helix when I could've done it all in one, you say? Well, I could've plugged the guitar straight into the Trio+ and saved me an FX loop, but I have a Variax and wanted to use all of its features and control it via Helix *and* wanted the Helix's expression pedal to control volume for both the Trio+ and the Helix... hence my convoluted routing. Finally, the Trio+ is mono unless using the headphones out, so the patch will also be mono. There is no way around this unless the Trio+ is fed out of the headphones jack straight into the mixer separately from the Helix. So cabling as follows: Helix Trio+ Send1 ---} Guitar In Return1 {--- AMP Out Send2 ---} FX Return Return2 {--- Mixer Out Patch can be found in CustomTone: http://line6.com/customtone/tone/2152016/

I would most definitely recommend against fastening any knobs with glue. I would suggest instead to first give Line 6 Customer support a call and they can sort you out, especially since you just got it that way and it is under warranty. As a last resort, maybe a small piece if paper between the shaft and the knob to take up the slack? Something small that could be easily removed and not glued to either the knob or the shaft. That way, in (the not so unlikely) case that Line 6 CS asks for the defective knobs back (i.e. to check them for manufacturing issues, or something similar), you can send them back. Once they are glued, the only way they come off is by shearing the rotary encoder shaft... which would be "BAD" with a capital B.

Same here. Definitely a lot LESS tweaking to get a good sound from pretty much all the amps and effects that I use the most. I know I probably need to put on a flame-retardant suit for saying this, but I think that the Helix having fewer models than the HD500 might also helped with "analysis paralysis" i.e, you have a handful of very different amps and you always know which one to use, have too many very similar amps and you are never sure which one to use. ... and the routing options are way higher on my list of awesomeness than having a lot of models. I especially like the tricks where you put the reverb and delay in parallel so that the reverb does not mess up the delay repeats, also the multiple paths when used to have multiple amps in one patch and switch between them. Another very happy camper here.

My Vax Std had a slight warble on the G and B strings, but much more so on G. This happened both models and mag pups. It turned out that one of the 6 screwa that hold the bridge plate down was over tightened (came that way from factory) and because of the extra tension near that edge of the plate, it kept one corner of the plate up away form the body at all times. Once I slightly loosened the screw so that the corner rested against the guitar body, the warble went away. Not sure what was the mechanics of the warble, but maybe the corner that was lifted up moved slightly sympathetically when certain strings were played, but in my case at least, it seems to have been a setup issue. Also, like Amsdenj, I would prefer that the tuning light stayed on like the model knob light, though I understand that this might not be the best for battery life. Maybe on a future Vax FW upgrade there could be an option to have the light on in sync with the model knob light? Some of us who use a L6 device that has a Vax input do not care as much about battery life and it would be a nice thing to have.

I think that the main point of contention here is not that there is no "separate" MP3/CD in. After all, after parting with US$1500, a $10 or less (stereo 1/8" to dual L&R 1/4") splitter is not a big deal (for most, at least), but losing an entire path might be a much bigger deal. I do not have any issues connecting my iPhone to the Helix (I do have the camera connection kit) and it works beautifully that way. Also, I can stream MP3s from my PC via the USB cable if I just switch the default audio device to Helix, so I am covered backing tracks-wise at home or when I take the Helix to a friend's to jam. If I wanted to connect my Android tablet though, I would have to use Return 1/2 or 3/4 on my Helix and dedicate the lower path on my Helix to pass the signal thru (well, I would add a volume control just to keep the levels balanced) and I would be basically unable to use half of the total DSP power. Not that I would need to do this, as I have the same music loaded on my iPhone, PC and Android tablet, so going down this path would not really give me anything I don't already have. If there was a way to have an entry in Global Settings that would allow us to remap Return 1,2,3 or 4 as one mono in and would automagically map it to the output (optionally with a Pan control) or Return 1/2 or 3/4 as one stereo input sent straight to outputs, we would not have to dedicate one entire path to redirecting output and I think it would be a good alternative to a dedicated MP3/CD in without negatively affecting those who would prefer all of the FX loops available for their pedals (there might even be an IdeaScale entry for this, I remember reading something similar a few months ago, but can't remember where)... ... or just get the camera connection kit (if you have an iOS device) or stream from your PC/MAC via USB :)

Hmm... I just thought about it after reading your post ricksteruk, but... Does anybody know whether we can feed the midi OUT of the Helix back to its midi IN (i.e. with a short midi cable) and then assign any sequence we want to each FS from the command center? that way we have up to 8 commands that we can send from each FS and they can be any midi command that the Helix will accept (effects on/off, change parameters, etc). So we can then turn on/off up to 8 effects at once, switch amps on the fly and even change parameters such as Amp "mid" control for a quick lead boost for instance? If a short midi cable does not work, maybe put a dummy "midi breakout box" of some sort to just forward the output back to the input? Sorry in advance if I am not being clear enough, I have very little knowledge of midi in general, but I think this should be possible with the functionality that we already have.

I was getting the same message on 996, 997, 998 and 999. I mapped the affected patches and all I did was to load each one and re-saved it without making any changes and now Helix loads up without rebuilding anything. Dunno what happened, but it started doing it after I upgraded the FW to 1.10

Having a Corey Hart moment? B)

Maybe the next FW version (v88.mph) should come packed with a flux capacitor.

Does it go to 11?

...eggs...teeer...mi..naaaate! ... On a more serious note, are you on El Capitan by chance? There are a couple of threads about issues related to El Capitan that seem to be OSX-related, not Helix-related. http://line6.com/support/topic/16987-helix-suck-at-audio-playback/?hl=capitan&do=findComment&comment=125252 http://line6.com/support/topic/17031-helix-usb-interface-with-cubase-on-mac-osx-el-capitan-1011/?hl=capitan

This looks to me like a hardware issue... especially the part where after 10 minutes the screen cleans up (heating, maybe? - or related to the video driver chip or the cable that feeds the display?). I would suggest calling Line 6 customer support and they will walk you through the troubleshooting steps to know for sure whether you need to replace it.

+1 for Dave's comment, especially the Global EQ. Bertwilson, if you had setup a Global EQ to compensate for your particular set of speakers, please check that it was not reset after the firmware upgrade and, if it was, you may need to put it back the way it was. I do not use Global EQ as I am going straight into an l2t and the Helix is designed to just pug into it via L6 Link without messing with EQ, but I know some do use it to compensate for their particular speakers (one way is to use the high freq shelf to roll off high freq fizz).

Hi cletcher1, I know that L6 has already stated that upgrading through a USB hub is not supported, but... just to see if it is a USB3 vs USB2 issue, have you tried connecting the Helix through a USB2 hub into the USB3 port of your Mac and trying the latest Helix app? If you can at least backup your patches, you will have your time and effort saved in case disaster strikes, even if you still cannot upgrade the firmware reliably. Or maybe backup with the help of a friend who has a Windows computer or an earlier Mac OS, like Yosemite, for instance? Also, there are tons of very cheap Windows10 laptops out there (in the US$200-300 range) that are total crap for anything other than web, Youtube and email, but they would be perfect for backing up patches or upgrading firmware. As a mater of fact, I have a pretty old (5+ years old) laptop that I always keep at an earlier version of Windows (just updated it to Win8.1 from Win 7 last month) that I keep around as a backup of last resort.

I would agree with HonestOpinion, JazzInc. Have you tried going into global settings, then In/Out and check the level of the 1/4" and XLR outputs? If it is set to "Line", then set it to "Instrument". Same for the FX loops, unless you are using Line-level effects in the FX loop.

And you're absolutely right, brainbug. I "guesstimate" about $20-$30 worth of parts, including both XLR connectors (in and out) and the case to house the board, which you can find at any Radio Shack that is still open. There is a PDF with instructions on how to make your own. Parts and soldering skills not included. Also please note that there are two pins on each side that are labelled "Pin 2", one of them should be "Pin 3" instead. For ease, the bottom "Pin 2" on the left and on the right of the schematics, should be "Pin 3" instead. https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=x-raw-image:///7210f2b722aa8b9353d280fd3a1617137a2ed1bfa17935c0c5aed3e3c048b70c&imgrefurl=https://www.gearslutz.com/board/attachments/geekslutz-forum/232400d1304024213-phantom-power-blocker-phantom-blocker.pdf&h=239&w=350&tbnid=k4uqIrfyEHKfKM:&docid=WYuBRhAAlSdc6M&ei=rdB4VrObH4WBmQG5646wAQ&tbm=isch&ved=0ahUKEwjzpa7xz-7JAhWFQCYKHbm1AxYQMwggKAMwAw ... or you can buy one for about US$35 http://www.markertek.com/product/ses-il-ppb/sescom-ses-il-ppb-xlr-inline-phantom-power-blocker ... or about 40 Euro for our European friends, who are always getting $hafted with the exchange rate: http://www.tritonaudio.com/index.php?option=com_simpleshop&Itemid=30&cmd=product&product=23&catName=Pro%20Audio

Cool, phil_m, we're practically neighbors, then. I live 1.5mi from GC Edina myself (though I also cannot afford to live in Edina) and I like that store. Totally on board that they seem to be better stocked all around,considering I've purchased virtually every single piece of Line6 gear I've had since 2008 and almost every other piece of gear as well. Got my HD500, DT50 and Helix there. In fact, the manager of that store has a distribution list (or at least, it seems to come from the manager) and I am in it... this is how I scored mine. I got an email saying something like "They're Here!" and a photo of the Helix, so I called right before my lunch break. They checked inventory and they told me that they had received ONE that very morning, so I asked if they would agree to set it aside and I would pick it up right away... they said yes, so I skipped lunch (but completely worth it) and flew (good thing cops were MIA that day) to the store. They cancelled my online order (which probably made the day for whoever was once spot past the last available online Helix for that batch) and walked out with "my precious" under my arm. Even the "platinum" GC stores had very limited inventory so, I would infer that the reason why not all stores got one was because there just weren't enough Helixes to send one to each store.