c00lkatz

Footswitch functionality is very limited. You can only set tap/flux/prev for FS3 and tap/flux/next for FS4. These just emulate pressing the actual tap/flux button itself, and is mainly used to expand out so you have both tap and flux buttons without having to switch between them on the single button. Flux is simply an on/off setting. You can assign multiple parameters to flux, but you can't assign different flux settings per preset. It's a "flux is on, set these parameters here" or "flux is off, set these parameters here" situation. I think MIDI is the only way to do what you want, and even then, they don't give you MIDI assignments for level, gain, etc. It's simply parameter 1, parameter 2, etc., which is different per effect. So you'll have to assign different MIDI depending on which effect you're on. The HX One is very limited in its control - it is nothing like the other Helix/HX products. It shares the same models, same color codes for the footswitches, and that's about it.

@mlewi1 People who go straight to front of amp usually set the amp clean and get all their drive/distortion from pedals, keeping things like delay/reverb after the drives in the chain. This does the same thing as using an FX loop, as long as you don't overdrive the amp's pre-amp. The point is to NOT run delay/reverb into distortion. As long as they're after distortion, you're fine. Unless you want that sound of course. You run into the same problem even with an FX loop when you overdrive the amp's power amp or phase inverter into distortion, as the FX loop is usually patched in before the PI/power amp. For straight to front end, no amp FX loop, Guitar -> HX Input -> HX Send -> Drive/Distortion Chain -> HX Return -> HX Output -> Mod/Delay/Reverb -> Amp Input (set clean) should get you there without an FX loop. Set the HX to "Insert" mode and set "Pre" for "after drive/distortion, before mod/delay/reverb" and "Post" for "before drive/distortion". In my setup, I utilize an amp with an FX loop AND a Boss NS-2 noise gate with an FX loop for the drive pedals. In this scenario, my signal chain looks like: Guitar -> Tuner -> NS-2 Input -> NS-2 Send -> HX One Input -> HX One Send -> Overdrive/Distortion Chain -> Front of Amp -> Amp FX Loop Send -> NS-2 Return -> NS-2 Output -> Chorus (preference) -> HX One Return -> HX One Output -> Delay/Looper/Reverb/Volume -> Amp FX Loop Return. This way I have the HX One before my drives but included in the NS-2 loop (HX One gate turned off) for use as front end looper, poly capo, OD/fuzz/distortion, front end modulation, Wah, alternate tuner, etc., but can also put it in my amp's FX loop. I toggle the HX One's noise gate and the NS-2 on/off based on where it's positioned. For instance, I turn the NS-2 off if I'm using the HX One looper in the front (since it's inside the NS-2 loop with no guitar triggering it, causing silence or low output). Mainly only do that for tone shaping. I have a Boss RC-1 in the amp's loop for actual live looping. I was looking into a Digitech Drop when I heard about the HX One. Was able to get one for $199 new - cheaper than a Drop and does that and SOOOO much more. Perfect utilitarian pedal for those obscure FX/tools you don't use all the time, and don't want to dedicate a whole spot on your board to that single effect/tool. Love it!

I know this is an old post, but for anyone wondering, this is possible with MIDI. I use an XSonic Airstep+Lite combo with the HX One, and send a MIDI CC 4 value 127 on press and MIDI CC 4 value 0 on release. Works great! Sucks there's no native hardware support for this, but MIDI is a good workaround that really opens up the capabilities of the HX One.

It does specify Note On commands in the manual. For the command I'm attempting to send, it's listed in the manual as Note C [-1] with a little blurb about Yamaha's "middle C" implementation vs other manufacturers, which is why I was trying multiple octaves of C. I can't get any of their listed Note On commands to work, only CC. I have a ticket open with Line 6 (yet to respond - probably due to weekend), but was wondering if anyone has run into this yet. I also ran into a problem with MIDI Thru causing inbound commands to be spammed by the CME WIDI Jack, which I'm wondering if that is a new bug in their latest MIDI fixes (which did pertain to MIDI thru). Point being, I'm wondering if this is a new bug that needs squashing in firmware, or if I'm just doing something wrong. I have confirmed with a MIDI monitor that my controller is sending the proper notes, but the HX One is not responding. MIDI CC and PC work just fine.

I have an XSonic Airstep connected to the HX One via a CME WIDI Jack. Everything is working great, except I can't get the HX One to respond to Note On commands, specifically the looper's record/play/overdub function via Note C [-1]. MIDI CC commands all work fine, but I'd like to use this particular Note On function, as it works slightly differently than the MIDI CC implementation (at least according to the manual) with record/overdub/play all on the same button (vs just record/overdub). The Airstep is programmed with MIDI Note# (rather than note name), but after looking up a conversion chart, I have confirmed the MIDI note name being sent with a MIDI monitoring program on my Macbook with the Airstep connected. I've tried C1/C2/C3/C4, with velocity 0/127/etc, nothing seems to work. Any ideas here? Am I just being dense? EDIT: Forgot to mention I'm on latest firmware 3.71. I also have MIDI Thru disabled, as it was causing the WIDI Jack to spam inbound messages and totally killed all inbound MIDI.

Same here, also looking for this functionality. At least we can get to the preset screen without having to press the 2 buttons, but my MIDI controller isn't right next to my board. Would be great to switch presets remotely as well without having to dedicate a whole button to a single program change.

Works fine on my Helix Floor f/w 3.0.1 and iPhone XS Max running iOS 14.2. On my old iPhone 7 Plus, my lightning port got clogged up with lint, apparently a common issue, and the connection was spotty. A toothpick and careful cleaning inside the port, everything worked fine. There was A LOT...like more than I thought could even fit in the port! Aside from that, double check your cable. Could be a faulty camera adapter, too. Couldn't hurt to do a good 'ol reboot of the iPhone either.

Yeah, same here, don't even look at other pedals or amps anymore. Still GAS for FRFR speakers I haven't tried and guitars though. Really want to try a PowerCab 212 plus, and want to get a Shuriken, a JTV89F, and a JTV59p. Currently have the L2T, L2M, and JTV69. Had the JTV59 with humbuckers, but sold it a long time ago (regretfully). I would like to try out a DT50 212 as well. I've got a thing for Line 6 I guess lol. I've considered a looper pedal as well, but honestly, the one button looper pedal is about all I use in that regard (I started the IdeaScale for it), plus I have a ton of looper apps on my iPad and Mobius on my DAW if I really needed more advanced looping. I don't play live/gig, just home player, though.

Yeah, I'm thinking about getting a PowerCab 212 Plus in the future, and would like to run L6 Link on both the PowerCab and the L2T/L2M. Just didn't know if it was possible, and don't have the gear to test.

Thanks for the input silverhead. Ideally, that's what I'd like to do, but unfortunately don't have space. I currently have them horizontal on amps stands in PA/Reference mode, with tweeters on the outside, woofers on the inside (basically one mirroring the other). I'd like to just set them on the floor with the built-in stands in floor monitor mode, but in stereo, the imaging is off due to the positioning of the tweeters, which is understandable, wouldn't normally run stereo floor monitors I suppose. Can't have them sitting on the floor with the tweeters on the outside, as the built-in stands are now on the wrong side on one of them in that position. I've tried vertical on amp stands, and the stereo imaging is best, but they're a little tall for where I have them positioned that way, plus my amp stands are almost too wide, the speakers sit barely between the legs of the stands. Any tips in this situation? As a side note, I've read that the Stagesource speakers will automatically flip to floor monitor mode when turned on their side. This is actually half true, at least with my speakers, as they also have to be tilted back for the speaker mode to switch. Otherwise the speaker mode stays where you last set it, even horizontally. Only when they're tilted back and horizontal does the speaker mode change. Not a bad thing, though, since with the amp stands, the speakers are decoupled from the floor, and don't need the floor monitor mode enabled. I've noticed the sound can change quite drastically depending on how these particular speakers are oriented, so wanted to see how everyone else who likes them with Helix has them set up. It's a shame I don't see more talk about them, as they do sound good (and supposedly are what Line 6 used to set up patches on the Helix, from what I've read), which makes it difficult to compare them to other options that are out there, like the PowerCab. It seems many don't consider them an option due to cost. Admittedly I wouldn't have them if I paid full retail. Found mine lightly used locally for $400 for the L2T and $250 for the L2M, so $650 for the pair - can't beat that!

Currently using Helix floor with an L2T and L2M in stereo via an L6 Link daisy chain. Is it possible to add a Powercab by simply connecting an L6 Link cable from the last speaker to the Powercab? How about a single L2 speaker and a Powercab via L6 Link? Or do you have to keep all the devices the same in L6 Link?

For those of you out there with a couple L2T/L2M speakers in stereo at home (not out gigging), how do you personally orient the speakers (horizontal, vertical, on an amp stand, on a pole, horizontal on a stand, vertical on a stand, etc), and what speaker mode do you use in said position? If you set them horizontally, do you use PA/Reference or Floor Monitor mode? Do you orient them both the same way with the tweeter on the same side for both speakers: [HF <— LF] [HF <— LF] or do you set them mirrored to each other like: [HF <— LF] [LF —> HF]

Good deal, glad I was able to help. There's a transmitter and receiver, two little holes way down in the pole mount. It's a bit of a stretch to get your fingers down there, just feel for the indentation and give it a wipe. Took a microfiber cloth, dampened it just a little (just very lightly damp, NOT dripping or soaked), wiped them off, turned it to a dry section of cloth, and wiped them again. DON'T use anything like alcohol or solvents to clean, nor anything abrasive, just a dry or lightly damp cloth (or sometimes even a CLEAN finger will do it). Anything else can distort or scratch the lenses of the sensors. I work in ATM repair, and cash dispensers use similar optical sensors for note detection that also become dirty.

I was able to get it fixed! The two optical sensors in the pole mount were dirty, causing it to think it was on a pole, and therefore not look for the horizontal/vertical orientation. Just wiped the sensors off, power cycled and it came up in floor monitor mode. Changed to a different mode, powered off, powered back on, and watched it actually flip to floor monitor mode. Also mounted it on a pole vs sitting vertically on the floor and there’s a clear difference in bass response with my acoustic feeding channel 1, so looks like that’s working too. Don’t believe there are any visual indicators for virtual tilt back, right? Also went into a high gain stereo patch and did some panning left and right to make sure the single L6 Link was sending a full stereo signal, and it was. Pan left volume goes down along with stereo delay repeats, pan right and same, pan center and volume comes back up with both delay repeats. Now just need to get the AES/EBU cable in and hooked up and should all be good.

Just bought a used L2T locally ($400 - great deal), and everything seems to work fine with the exception of the speaker mode auto-select. Whenever I turn the speaker on its side, it stays in the same mode previously selected. I've tried both powered on and powered off. If I select a mode, power off, turn it on its side, power on, it stays in that other mode (electric, acoustic, PA, etc). If I set it horizontally, select a mode, turn it off, turn it back on, still stays in that same mode, doesn't switch to floor monitor mode. What am I missing here? It's connected to my Helix floor via L6 Link. Admittedly, I am using a regular 10' Mogami XLR for the connection, but do have a Mogami AES/EBU cable on the way (though I don't think that would have anything to do with this issue). It behaves the same way with L6 Link connected or not, something plugged into the mixer or not, etc. I have tested everything on the speaker with the exception of the L6 Link output daisy-chain, as I don't have another Link device to try it with. All other connectors, ports, and knobs work. Mixer ch.2 gain knob is a bit noisy, but is getting better with use - probably just a dirty pot - guy said it's barely used, and yeah it looks nearly brand new save for some dust. I have checked firmware version, and it's at the latest 1.05. Any ideas? It's not that big of a deal really, but just bothers me that something that's supposed to work...isn't. I know there are pole mount sensors and other sensors to detect speaker position for virtual tilt-back and such, and with this not working, I now wonder if those do too?

So would I, no brainer!

Yeah that would awesome. I'm looking at some of these controllers, and they are all just so antiquated compared to Helix - we've been spoiled lol. Thinking about getting a Voodoolabs Ground Control Pro - there's one used close to me for $250. Tons of footswitches but man, looks like a pain to program. In case this didn't work I also toyed around with the idea of getting an FBV 3 or FBV Shortboard MKII and using a powered USB hub to connect both the Helix and the controller via USB. Then I could use FBV Control to edit the pedal. However I read there may be some issues with multiple USB devices requiring a certain boot up or app startup sequence to get them to jive correctly. Was also thinking about modding it with a MIDI connector and wiring up the FBV RJ45 jack to it, since that's all it is plus power - and from what I've read about the Quicco Sound mi.1 working with the Helix (and it requires MIDI phantom power), might even get power for the FBV from the Helix MIDI ports. Might have to pick one up and try it out.

Awesome, great news, thank you!

I am wondering if the Helix will route through MIDI commands from its hardware MIDI connectors over USB to an iPad? I already have the Helix hooked up to an iPad Mini 2 via USB (and the camera connection adapter), and using MIDI from Helix to control the iPad works great. However, I would like more footswitches. I would like to hook up an additional MIDI foot controller to the Helix's MIDI ports, and have those commands passed through the Helix over USB to the iPad to control various apps. Is this possible? Trying to see if this will work before I shell out the cash for a controller. Thanks!

Definitely look into it! I also forgot to mention you can use it to look at sheet music (if that's something you do), or view tabs, lyrics, etc. I run Tab Pro by Ultimate Guitar on it, which is great for learning new songs. AUM is $20 but SO worth it! It should be the first app you buy for using the iPad with your Helix. The routing possibilities are as flexible as the Helix itself using that app, and it's very simple to use as well, once you get the hang of it. You can bring in your signal from the Helix into AUM, set up multiple mix buses, multiple sends/returns, route the signal through various apps (for effects or other processing or utilize AUM's built-in signal processing), etc etc. If you want to use your Helix for vocals, but don't like the effects included, there are a bunch of vocal effects processor apps you can use to process vocals on the iPad. Just plug in a mic to the Helix, route the signal out via USB into the iPad, apply the vocal effects you want, and then send them back out to the Helix. I love using it to monitor all my levels, both in and out, as well as balance out the levels of everything else on the iPad with the Helix . I think it's a great alternative to using a laptop/desktop. I feel it's way more portable, takes up less space, the apps are cheaper than their desktop counterparts, and I hate playing in front of a computer (feel too constrained). And I REALLY like that 1 cable hookup, and how compact it is mounted on a mic stand! I've read how some people want multiple global EQ's, or how they perform in the same places and would like patches EQ'd for those environments, etc. Well if you set the output block in the Helix to a USB channel, receive that block into AUM, apply some EQ to the signal, send that signal back out to the Helix for output to the 1/4" / XLR connectors, you can then save that AUM session as a preset and recall it at anytime. That way you can have multiple global EQ's for different locations (and of course you can name the presets). Just like with the Helix, the possibilities are only limited by your imagination! The only limitations really are the number of footswitches on the Helix that you can dedicate to control everything, such as loopers on the iPad or Anytune or a Drum machine's functionality, depending on how you lay out your presets/snapshots. You have to get creative and figure out how you want to lay out your foot switches so everything is easily accessible. But with the Helix's ability to send MIDI commands with individual footswitches, patch changes, or snapshots, you can get pretty good results with a little planning. Either that or get an external 6/8/10-button MIDI footswitch, connect it to the Helix via it's MIDI connectors, and then use that to control the iPad via MIDI thru to USB, leaving all the Helix footswitches dedicated to the patches. Actually I don't know if this will work, as I haven't tried it myself. Been doing some research on the subject, but can't find a definitive answer. I have an open post on the forum to see if this will work.

I use an iPad Mini 2 with the USB to Lightning Camera Connection Adapter. Music plays back in the Helix via USB 1/2. There is a USB input trim, but it's buried under global settings and I don't like using it. I use an app called AUM which is an audio mixer for the iPad. You can use it to route the Helix USB inputs and outputs through the iPad, monitor input/output levels, add additional effects/EQ/etc from the iPad, mix music playback in on a separate channel and control its output, recording, and many many other uses. And it utilizes its own presets and has MIDI. For playback I use an app called Anytune Pro+, which allows you to play back backing tracks (which you provide, or any other MP3) in a particular set list, with the ability to slow down or speed up the song/tempo, change the tuning of the song in half steps, and tons of other features, including labeling different sections of the song and skipping between them. It is also MIDI controllable, so you can use the Helix MIDI over USB feature to control the app (or any other MIDI app on the iPad) with the Helix foot switches or patch changes, for play/stop/repeat/next/etc. There are drum apps you can use as well, such as Drum Beats+, X Drummer, Patterning, and tons more, as well as more advanced looper apps such as Group the Loop, Quantiloop, Loopy HD, etc, which are all a bit more robust than the Helix built in looper. And again with MIDI over USB you can control them with the Helix foot switches. There are even full on DAWs available. And all with one USB cable connection. I have my iPad in a tablet holder on a mic stand next to the Helix for convenience. Loving this setup! The Helix + iPad combo is so powerful, versatile, and portable, I just wish I had jumped on board much sooner!

I can vouch for the MDR7506 for sound, any of the Beyerdynamics DT series for comfort. I would go with DT880.

You have path 1 and path 2. These are your 2 main paths. Each path can be split up. Path 1 becomes path 1A and path 1B. This represents one processor. The lower path below the dashed line in the middle of the screen is path 2, which can be split up into path 2A and path 2B. This represents the other processor. If you're running out of DSP in path 1, then move some things to path 2 and route path 1 into path 2. For example if you have 2 amps in path 1 (either 1A and/or 1B) and want to add a reverb but don't have enough DSP left in path 1, then route the output of path 1 into path 2 and place your reverb on path 2. You should post a screenshot of your patch so we may better see what it is you're trying to accomplish.

Agreed. Exactly what I was about to suggest.

I have 2 x Alto TS212 sitting vertically on amp stands I got from Guitar Center for $40/ea. Definitely much boomier on the floor. I also had a single TS110A before the TS212s. Wanted to try stereo but couldn't find another TS110A easily since they're discontinued and the TS210 weren't in stock. After getting the TS212 home I can say they don't sound much different than the TS110A. There is a bit more bass but it's not overbearing (like it is on my EV ZLX 15). The TS212 seem a bit brighter too. However they're not much heavier but are a bit bulkier. The added bass doesn't bother me though, it can be EQ'ed out. I don't just play guitar through them, I also listen to full backing tracks and play a bit of bass guitar as well, so for me the TS212 are what I'd consider closer to a "full band" type sound. If I were just monitoring guitar I'd probably stick with the 10 just to keep things simple and smaller.