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Everything posted by MusicLaw

  1. Nope. I don't think this is an absolute requirement. Moreover, if your need to use different Global I/O Level Settings (Instrument vs. Line) you'll need separate FX channels.
  2. Metalman1221: Read this review on TGP: I too find Helix's stock cabs, once dialed in and blended in multi-cab configs, can deliver exceptional results. I have not yet felt compelled to buy IRs. No Fizz encountered here. The monitors you will be listening through will have a massive impact on how things sound. Choose them wisely!
  3. Thanks for the update! Firmware 2.11 may have ironed out this wrinkle.
  4. If unable to find it, try reinstalling the software.
  5. HonestOpinion and MonkeyXT, if you have installed 2.11, are you still able to recreate this abnormal behavior?
  6. I don't use my Helix with a computer, so I can't help you with that part of your configuration objective. Nonetheless, I have used my Helix with my Yamaha THR10C. The Yamaha works exceptionally well as a stereo near field FRFR Monitor! It is amazing just how good the Yamaha sounds! It was remarkably similar when A/B'd against a set of JBL LSR305 powered studio monitor. I had them all connected simultaneously to the Helix and could switch between them. Get Two (2) 1/8" (3.5 mm) TRS to Dual 1/4 inch TS Stereo Breakout Cables like this one (or longer length if desired): Use one to connect the Helix's FX 1&2 Sends to the Yamaha's Aux In jack. The other allows you to connect your stereo audio playback device to the Helix's FX 1&2 Returns. On the Helix define one FX Return Block for FX 1&2 Return (Stereo Audio in from your music source), and one FX Send Block for FX 1&2 Send (stereo to the Yamaha). Also handy is to define a Volume Gain Block postioned after the FX Return and before the FX Send Block to easily adjust the level sent to the Yamaha from the Helix. In this configuration, routing the stereo signal to the Yamaha's Aux In jack, all of the Yamaha's amp modeling and cab sims are circumvented! The Yamaha acts solely as a powered stereo speaker system. So the only active knob on the Yamaha is the AuxIn level knob. While in this mode the Yamaha sounded outstanding! [Note: It also draws far less current, so the batteries (if you power it that way) will last far longer than when the Yamaha's amp profiles, tone stack and FX controls are active in the circuitry as when the 1/4" input is used.] While connected via AuxIn to the Helix, I also connected a set of JBL LSR305 to the Helix using the Helix's Main 1/4" Outs. After adjusting levels on the Yamaha and the JBLs, and trying the Helix's Global Settings I/O options for Line vs Instrument levels, I switched the connections to the Yamaha and JBLs. Listening to a variety of material played through the Helix both the Yamaha and each sounded great. Of course, the JBLs could get louder and had a bigger bottom end, but up to the point where the Yamaha could no longer compete, the Yamaha did a remarkable job rendering the accuracy of the playback material and matched the JBLs very closely. I also did the same with my guitar connected to the Helix, stepping through each of Helix's Amp+Cab Block Models. Simply define an Amp+Cab Block in the 2nd postion of the Signal Path. Put a Looper Block in the first postion and you can record your guitar and let it loop (playback) as you step through each of Helix's Amp+Cab Block models auditioning how they sound. Then add an Amp Block in positon 3, and a Cab Block in position 4. This allows you to isolate (using the Bypass Button) how each sounds using the Amp Button and Joystick Selector. You can also do the same with a PreAmp Block, but you'll have to delete either, the Amp+Cab Block or the Amp Block due to the DSP limit on Path 1. Otherwise, you'll need to use Super Serial mode (routing Path 1's output block to Path 2) to access the additional DSP resources. BTW, do all the above on one of the Empty User Presets found in the Templates setlist. I did also try routing the Helix's signal to the Yamaha's 1/4" Instrument In. I tried this two ways. One from the Helix's FX Sends (using a 1/4" Y adapter to converge the stereo signals to a Mono signal into the Yamaha) and the other from the Helix's Main 1/4" Out. In both instances, the Yamaha's amp profiles are now being used along with the Yamaha's tone stack and FXs. Thus, you'll likely want to disable (i.e Bypass) the Amp+Cab Block, Amp Block, Cab Block, and PreAmp Block in Helix's signal chain. I didn't burn, destroy nor blow out anything, but it was certainly a learning experience, over the course of several hours on two consecutive days. Overall, I preferred using the AuxIn on the Yamaha rather than Instrument In. The final point I'll mention is that using the Helix's FX Sends and Main Out (rather than the Headphones out) allowed me to keep my Sony MDR-V6 headphones connected to the Helix at all times and instantly use them as another comparison. Otherwise, using the Helix's Headphones out could be another valid method to connect to the Yamaha. Give it a try and see what works best for you! Hope this helps! Even though it was a long post.... :}
  7. If a numeric display were to be implemented, it must be highly legible, regardless if a pure integer scaled value, for example, 0 - 100, or a decimal scaled value of 0.1 - 10. Nor would it be necessary to remain prominently displayed at all times. For instance, it could appear in a prominent size and remain displayed as such for 2 seconds after changing the Main Vol position, and then perhaps persist in a smaller size font at a different location on the screen (perhaps the upper right region of the display). Helix's Main Volume knob's engraved score mark serves as an easy glance indicator. Although it is a relative indicator, subject to the various level settings of the Block Elements comprising the signal chain(s) routed to associated output Block(s), most of the time my Main Vol is at 12 o'clock. This works great with a pair of Yamaha DXR10 FRFR monitors (also set at 12 o'clock postion and for Line Level). There's still plenty of headroom. When using other powered Monitor Speakers (with different input sensitivity levels), or, when Helix's Main Amp Outs are feeding a Guitar Amp's FX Returns I still tend to leave Helix's Main Vol at noon. I'll make any gain staging adjustments on those other powered monitor speakers or Guitar Amps (as powered cabs), whenever possible. The point is, when I glance down and see Helix's engraved mark at the noon position, I know immediately it's set properly (unless I have intentionally alterted the setting for good reason).
  8. The only intermittent lethargy I have encountered is a mere hickup with the rotary operation of the Joystick encoder. When stepping through the Models of an Amp+Cab Block, regardless, if rotating the Joystick Clockwise or Counter-clockwise every so often the next model is not selected. The Helix seems to ignore the encoder's instruction pulse and skips a beat. The very next rotation click works. See: This has been reported to Line 6. I'm still on fw 2.10. My Helix is not used connected to a computer.
  9. Click the SUPPORT Link (in the Nav Bar at the top of this page). Then click TECHNICAL SUPPORT. Then click CONTACT SUPPORT. Click Open a Support Ticket.
  10. MusicLaw

    Volume drops out

    I have encountered this same problem. It occurs randomly while using and exploring the Factory Presets and Templates on my Helix running fw 2.10. I do not use my Helix connected to a PC! It has also occurred in the single customized Preset I created from scratch using Templates > New Preset 06A. User reports of unresolved (persisting) problems and confirmed report of a newly appearing blaring audio issue in the incremental firmware update 2.11, have lead me to forgo installing fw 2.11. Once the next fw build is released, I will consider it's merits.
  11. Precisely! The base can be left where it needs to be for connecting the signal to the rest of the gear. This often changes depending how I'm connecting into my gear (Amps, Helix, etc.) The USB Charging Cable allows the Transmitter to be charged from any available USB power source. And, it also doubles as a leash of sorts for the Transmitter. Even after fully charging the Transmitter, I often leave it plugged into the cable. However, I will pull it out just enough to remove pressure from the sleeve adjacent microswitch.
  12. RavPower's products are top notch! Any of the models you linked to will do. I have one of their 22,000mAh units and it is fantastic.
  13. MusicLaw

    Helix FAQ

    As jumpering involves sending the guitar's signal through two Preamp stages, this could be why the British Plexi Jump uses more DSP.
  14. I too have noticed that the Helix's Main 1/4" Outs are noticably louder than the XLR Outs. This regardless when using sets of Yamaha DXR10s, Yamaha HS8s, JBL LSR305s, all in Stereo I have not measured the Helix's Output levels. Line 6 should publish, their I/O Level Specs! Emphasis Added
  15. Get this submitted on a Support Ticket! What firmware are you each running on your Helix?
  16. An easy to use accessory to recharge the G10 without having to use the base unit. It works for me. If you are changing locations, you'll still need to re-pair the base and transmitter to assure they have the opportunity to auto-select the clearest channel to assure interference free operation.
  17. All you'll need is a small capacity Rechargeable USB Lithium Battery pack. Get the best capacity model you can for the price. Small units start at about 2000mAh. Any of these will charge and supply power using a USB cable (micro USB for recharging) Standard USB as a power source. All at standard USB 5v 1000mAh. Some will provide up to 2.4mAh and have multiple USB ports for powering several devices. Notwithstanding the fact that the G10 ships with a Transformer rated to supply 1000mAh, during use, regardless when as a receiver base or for recharging the G10 Transmitter, the acutal measured current draw of the base is far below this rating. A fully charged G10 Transmitter is rated for 8 hours of use. So if you begin with a fully charged G10 Transmitter you'll easily exceed you 4 hour requirment. Amazon frequently has USB Lithium rechargeable battery packs on sale for well under $20.
  18. I've been using one of the Line 6 G10 USB Charging cables since mid November, and it works great! See:
  19. derekneu: The G10 has not yet been out for a full year! Line 6's G10 Warranty is a full 1 year. Sweetwater is an Authorized Line 6 vendor. Contact Line 6 immediately to clarify the extent to which they will cover your G10 purchase from Sweetwater.
  20. A drop of Locktite (use the appropriate version for the materials) can do wonders.
  21. An instrument cable can act as an antenna, especially when used with single coil pickups. Eliminating the antenna can reduce the noise, particularly if the source is Radio Frequency Interfernece (RFI).
  22. Happy ChrismaHannuKwanzaMeleKalikimakaFestivus to all Helixians! And, a Happy Seasons Greetings to Everyone
  23. Great question! As I recollect, G10 firmware updates 1.03 and 1.04 were solely addressing issues with the G10 Transmitter (as opposed to any issues involving the G10 Base Charger Receiver). Moreover, as the G10T Transmitter has been available without the Base Charger since approxmately the October availability of the Spider V amps, the Spider V amps Updater software would likely support updating the G10 Transmitters. Line 6's offices are closed for the Holiday until Tuesday morning. Until then perhaps one of the Spider V Amp Beta Testers may respond with more info.
  24. From Helix User Guide 2.0 Rev D (latest version) PDF, Page 50, regarding the Global Settings > Ins/Outs Guitar In Pad: "If your guitar or bass has active or really loud pickups, you may want to turn this on. There's really no rule; use what sounds best." AFAIK, Line 6 has not published their I/0 Specs. They really should! Without actually measuring it (perhaps someone already has?) we don't know precisely what Line 6 has done with the Guitar In Pad. As the term Pad implies, it is an attenuated input. Also feel free to explore the Aux In. The Aux in is a 10kΩ input for an active-pickup equipped guitar or bass. If it sounds good, use it.
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