PierM

Try using an explicit 1/4" instead multi. Multi does not exist on Stomp. I checked myself and looks like none of the main output level controller assignment is being ported between different devices. Really looks like the main output block is calling for different pipelines. I'm pretty sure it's doable from a code perspective (just a couple of code loops to check/compare and reassign), but it's something to ask as a feature in ideascale. Honestly it could even be a bug. I even tried the opposite, porting from Stomp to Rack, and the main output is bein reset to Multi. It does retain starting level/pan values but all controllers assigned to them are lost. So you can port the pan and level between units, but not controllers assigned to them.

Im thinking loud here, but the input and output blocks are directly calling for specific hardware, that isnt exactly the same on LT and Stomp. Like for example, LT has Digital and XLR, other than 1/4", so if you are using XLR as output (or digital) in those presets, could be the level values related to non-existent outputs are not available for the Stomp, which only has 1/4" available. If this is the case, you could probably solve linking the snapshots to gain/pan/volume blocks, instead directly to the main output block.

That is a typical sign of a faulty LCD, and yep, it does get worse with time. Follow the above suggestion.

Just a free suggestion my friend. An opinion based on 30 years of experience working with Hardware and Software for a living. Not hard intentions. When you approach a new device you don't know, it's always a good thing to do a good research before jump into it. Glad you solved. Peace.

I had the Helix floor in a pedalboard with many other pedals (now I've the rack, so this is story from the past). Looks cool, but it's gonna be a boat anchor with a humongous footprint. I ended up splitting in two separate sections because there were to much weight, to much torsion on the board and to much movement between velcro and pedals, etc... Was an overdone thing for me. If you plan to add many pedals to this board, I would suggest to keep the helix floor out of it. Helix floor is already a pedalboard, and you could find useful to have the option to use the two parts alone, in situations where you don't need the entire arsenal. My probably useless 2C. :)

Man, just relax and do a bit of google before jumping into things. Google "how to update line 6 helix"; first risult is an official video. It's all there.

Im with you 100% on this, but to each his own. Im also for spending time playing instead chasing tonez...amen that

Ok. Thought it was an edited version.

I'm assuming you are getting the crackling noise within the unit, and not when passing through a DAW. (in that last case, it's indeed buffering which can be easily solved in the DAW audio settings) If you share the preset someone could try to reproduce locally. Of course nobody is getting this problem, so something is happening your side. Anyway, I would try to reset globals and force rebuilding all presets, just in case there is some preset corruption.

Everything related to a G10 malfunctioning should be faced with the technical support. Over here you aren't going to solve much.

The Helix rack/floor comes with a variable voltage power supply, that accepts from 100 to 240Volt. There is also a version, for the japan market, which only accept 100Volt, but I'm pretty sure you have the first one, since you seems to live in a ~220Volt area. Frequency does adjust accordingly (50/60Hz) Anyway, you just need to look at the back of your Helix, it's all there. :)

Overwhelming instructions....

Just tried. They did something, but not what OP is asking, like just one single ~180° knob rotation to go from min to max. I'm not even sure it's an option with these kind of rotary encoder resolution. Anyway, now if you manage to make a very wide and fast spinning to the knob encoders, you get a very wide value change, so if you do a bunch of those slides you can go from min to max much quicker than before. I does help a lot with those long params like Delay and Reverb time. :)

Doh! I didn't see this, I need to check this out!

You need to post this in http://line6.ideascale.com/. No devs here reading your wishes. :) Said that, I agree with you. There are long params, like delay times, where you need an entire minute to move from min to max. Ridiculous...

This is probably to firewall those bad boys giving 150 downvotes in 2 days. Yep, you know it's a true story. :D

I can't even click on reactions, so I'm gonna screenshot them. XD

Well, you have a crown icon now. From guru to King! I have popcorn or something...bah

For me is even worse, as I've to clear the cookies every single time I want to log in.

This is more the Windows 8 of the updates. Same s**t as before, but more messed up.

I'm the guy who always ask the stupid basic questions; ...did you checked in the manual? :)

Lot of variables involved. When it's about a bunch of devices and pedals in the same room, with involved WiFi, EMI, RFI and currents, every scenario is different. What I know for sure is I only get these noise problems with G10S. It's funny as I bought a G10S exactly to have it in the pedalboard, instead my other G10 with USB power supply. Oh well, it is what it is.

If I don't use its own G10S PS (also plugged in a different socket than main rig), I do also get a terrible pulsing noise. And that's with a Zuma, one of the most silent power supply in the market. The G10S seems it needs to be plugged into a different socket than other stuff. At least this happens to me, and only happens with this device.

Depends if the wifi is busy in that area. G10, and even worse G10S, are very picky with wifi and if there are lot of devices spreading their own 2.4Ghz in the same or adiacent/overlapping channels, they will work erratic as you described. Problems is nowadays wifi is a busy mess almost everywhere so these things arent really realiable.