PierM

Yep. Seems fixed now.

The right cable for EU it's a Type F (CEE 7/4) - IEC 60320 C13.

There is only one thing better than L6 forums; The Helix Native license agreement...which nobody never really seen. We do keep passing down the tale, from one generation to another. :D

As far as I know and learned over here, that Native license isn't going anywhere once you sold your Helix hardware. So in theory you don't have to do anything. That Native will should still works. ...unless they changed the rules.

Usually Line 6 (as many others) does pair its pedals with a power supply which has more mA than really needed (I guess mostly to optimize the production), so I think 300mA is indeed the minimum requirement for the pedal to work properly. The fact they do stamp 500mA on the back of the pedal, doesnt mean it wont work with 300mA. It's just to match the max current draw offered to the stock PS. I've seen the the same with many other L6 pedals and modelers. It's then important that those mA are solid and clean, and instantly available at boot. ;)

Yep, just forget of the legacy G10T first version. Has been neutralized by the firmware and there is nothing you can do. I do have the G10TII and still works pretty good tho. Average 6hrs with a full charge. Just DO NOT BUY a G10S receiver, as it sucks with WIFI. Really, it's garbage. I don't know how's possible the basic and cheaper version, without the Channel knob (so I guess fully automatic), never gave me a single problem with connection stability, while the G10S is glitchy in any channel. Ok I do have a busy wifi situation, but still the basic receiver works perfectly.

Get off my lawn!

Be sure to set hardware compatibility to Helix Floor/Rack if you want to simulate the same DSP availability as the Helix hardware. If you don't care to do that, and you do not plan to move presets from Native to hardware, you can just turn off this function, and get extra power beyond DSP limits.

Helix Control doesnt work without a Helix Rack.

It works, thanks!

Cool, then it's gonna work. Just turn off the Cab sim on the AMT and you are good to go!

You'd still need an "amp box pedal" to do something like that, otherwise IRs alone arent helpful for an electric guitar. It would sound fizzy and harsh.

Good choice! HXEdit (to edit/create presets and keep your device updated) is all you need. No rush and enjoy!

Im allergic to Silver. Can I have Bronze? :) (glad you sorted out)

As for the optimization, which is FOUNDAMENTAL for live/low latency, I do suggest this free "Glitch Free" pdf guide (there is advanced stuff but also things for starters) https://www.cantabilesoftware.com/glitchfree/ Also this tool, is the bible to checking low latency / realtime audio performance (all free stuff); https://www.resplendence.com/latencymon

Just don't do it again. :)

You just need an audio interface with solid drivers and you should be fine. You could even run Native in a VST Host instead a DAW, saving A LOT of DPC calls and CPU Cycles. There are hundreds of options in the market, but imho a Scarlett Solo or a Duo (2nd or third gen) is more than good to play with an acceptable low latency. I mean, Im doing that in a 10 years old Samsung Laptop, optimized for DAW, and it just works fine. And yes, you have dedicated headphones out.

Just got that same problem, out of nowhere. I just turned on my HX stomp as every day, and all presets were gone. Started HX Edit to restore my backup and got the DSP Overload error while restoring. Restarted HX Edit and got DSP Overload error again. Only option was to reset the unit and restore. Just to say, isnt always user fault. ;)

The core midderish sound of a Super Reverb comes from the 4x10 alnicos, and Helix does really lack in that compartment, generally speaking. (IIRC we only have a very bassy 4x10 for the tweed) Not a big deal, as you can go pretty much there through a deluxe amp block with an hot bias, and a 4x10 CTS alnico IR. (Cabir.eu they have a pretty damn good one)

If you are using a VDI cable, check that all the presets input blocks are set to either Multi or Variax (I would set this if you only use a Variax guitar). If they are set for Guitar or others inputs, then you won't get any sound. PS; don't know those presets, but I'd also check if they have some aggressive noise gate cutting the signal when you jump into them with a variax model, which typically has a much weaker volume than a real guitar pickup.

It's like that on every browser and device on earth. But good news; they don't care. :)

What Musiclaw said. As for the registration error, this probably means that serial has been already registered. You should ask previous owner to delete that registration from his account and try again.

I really dont think so.

I didnt even know they were still producing and selling US models. They never existed over here in Europe. Nice to know. :)