PierM

Everytime I stumble on these threads, I see a lot of overthinking. You just need a standard TS/TS cable, remove one of the two jacks, and solder a TRS jack, just leaving the ring alone. Tip to Tip, Sleeve to Sleeve. Then TRS jack goes into your pedal, and TS goes into the Helix EXP port. That's it.

Have to quote myself again. :P It's still a good amp tho.

DT770pro 250Ohm, AKG 141MKII 55Ohm. All good with both. :)

I ordered one of those "compatible with Variax JTV" from Amazon. It's cheap, but reviews are very good. Hopefully a solution. :) Thanks guys. (VDI isn't a solution as I need a completely wireless setup)

I've been waiting for 6 months now, for a order of a Variax battery. Now they contacted me saying it's another 3 months, at least. Im tired of this infinite wait, so...is there any valid alternative that I can safely use with my old JTV59? Thanks for any opinion/experiences/help. PS: Im in Europe.

Or just let's move to TGP all together! They have everything there, plus cake!

If you want to record and listen through the Clarett; Helix SPDIF OUT -------------> Clarett SPDIF IN (Standard RCA SPDIF CABLE) Clarett USB---------------------->Computer USB Clarett L/R (1/2) Out-------> L/R Speakers Guitar plugged into Helix If you want to record and listen through the Helix; HELIX USB----------------------------------------------------------------->Computer USB HELIX L/R Out (your call if XLR or 1/4")---------------------> L/R Speakers Guitar Plugged into Helix Clarett can be just turned off. :) First scenario you use the Clarett as audio interface, and Helix as a modeler. Guitar signal goes into Helix, getting modeling and effects, and being sent to Carlett/DAW through the spdif digital. From the DAW, the signal is then being sent to speakers through Clarett hardware and its ASIO drivers. Remember to set the Carlett Clock Source to external in the settings. (it should auto lock tho.) Second scenario, you use the Helix to do both, working as audio interface and modeler. Guitar signal goes still into Helix, getting modeling and effects, and being sent to DAW through the Helix internal audio interface, via USB. From the DAW, the signal is then being sent to speakers through Helix hardware and its own ASIO drivers. This has the advantage to allow you to access reamping, recording just a dry signal (available at USB channel 7), without any modeling nor effects, and then find the final tone (always available at USB channels 1/2) without have to record a new take for every sound you want to try. You don't want to plug your guitar straight into Clarett as you have Helix hardware. You do plug your guitar into Clarett as soon as you use virtual instruments. Like Helix Native and other VSTs. Check the Helix manual for details about routing, reamp and many other great things. :)

Ah right. Makes perfectly sense now. Thanks. Anyway, was just a big offtopic started by me sorry. I basically discovered I do have another potential discounted license because of my HX Stomp, but I have the other one I grabbed with my Helix Rack... so I was just messing around about the idea of selling that last one, but honestly it's just gonna stay where it is, unsold and unused. :)

I've found that it's not an expire issue, but just their cookies which are (assuming) kind of broken. When I come back here and I look unlogged, I just click on the main forum link and there you go, I'm logged in again.

This is weird. So this means I should buy my discounted license for 99, and then resell at full price? I mean, why on earth the other guy should buy from me at that point? :D

Of course it's your stuff and your money, but from an electronic POV, what you are doing it's just prone for an imminent domino of fried components. It's clear there is still some "firewall" that it's preventing those 19V to fully hit the main controllers and boards. Probably there is still some voltage regulator preventing the disaster, just after the component which failed first. Also, the HX Stomp, for its very tight packaging, has a very hot thermal management by default. As soon as those 19V will hit main boards, I'm pretty sure it's gonna bake for good. What Im saying is that, imho, it's better you fix it now, as it could be just a protection in the early stage of AC control, that needs to be fixed. After that, if the main board will be baked later, it's gonna be just an expensive doorstop. :) Anyway, good luck. :)

Open a support ticket, but at this point I believe the fix will be at your own expense. It's of course an hardware failure, which you probably make it worse raising voltages by more than 100%...

Amazing. So, since I do already have a full Native license, now I have another one to sell! :D

I stand corrected! Seems they also offer full discount with the Stomp. Wasn't like that when I bought mine. Gonna edit the post, thanks!

1) HX Stomp is based on same tech, code and software as the flagship models, rack and floor. It does just have 1/4 of the DSP power, less footswitches and less routing options. Max 8 blocks instead 32. Then 2 stereo path (serial or parallel) VS 4 stereo path (serial or parallel) for the full Helix. 2) Yes. You can create presets for your HX Stomp in two ways. Using its own editor (HX Edit), with the Stomp connected to the USB port. Or, using Native with an audio interface (which can be the HX Stomp itself), and then just exporting the preset. You just need to set the Native software to emulate HX Stomp hardware. Only limitation (which is valid for all HX devices) is that Native won't give your hardware related blocks, like send/return and looper. But as said before, you should use the HX Edit to just create full presets. The HX Stomp sounds perfect for your needs. Small footprint and plenty of power for "simple" chains. ;) https://line6.com/documents/processor_comparison_chart/Line_6_Processor_Comparison_Chart.pdf

As soon as it does only flash red couple of times when just docked, is fine. Mine does the same. After that it should either flash green when charging, or solid green when fully charged.

As usual, great contribution! Thank you!

I've the feeling that while you are here ranting 24/7, and telling us you're gonna drop the horrible helix (rubbish hardware, horrible scribble strips, garbage presets, wrong default, worst pitch tracking etc etc etc..) to then buy a Boss GT1000 (be aware Boss forums, you are the next!), he's busy to give you something new to rant about. It's still sort of a free energy loop. Peace. :)

Helix looper does only allow rounded operations. From the way you describe, seems you are expecting a stutter function or an unrounded Once, which is not available for that looper.

It's all in the manual. :) "With a Y cable, you can connect up to two expression pedals and/or momentary type footswitches to HX Stomp's rear panel EXP 1/2 | FS 4/5 jack. Alternatively, you can connect a single Mission SP1-L6H Line 6 Expression Pedal, which has a toe switch built in that can toggle its function between EXP 1 (Wah by default) and EXP 2 (Volume by default)."

Try using the "L" adapter you should have in the G10 box. Some guitars, like some vintage Telecasters, or some Godin etc.. they have a recessed jack plate, so for the motive explained above, that little switch isn't being pressed properly.

Eh I know, managing multiple instruments, through the same presets, can be a pain sometimes.. I do have an arsenal of guitars, mostly Les Paul Custom, with a wide gamma of pickups, from a Staple, to PAF, plus a bunch of Strats and Teles.. And that's also why I do prefer to use an Iridium as main amp/cab sim, as gives me instant access to the preamp section that I can tune on the fly for each guitar, as with an actual amp. But yeah, global gain would be cool!

You can do the same with just one HX Stomp, going 4CM... but if you need many effects that just one unit can't handle, then two stomps is totally fine. There is no right or wrong here. :)

Isnt a Helix issue and has nothing to do with the wireless protocol. It's the built in gain in the GLXD6 which is probably set too hot to be received by the inst level of the Helix input. Try reducing the gain to unity (0dB) or less, and see if does improve.