PierM

There are bugs that can be triggered only if a complex series of conditions are valid and happening at the same time, or in a specific sequence. They can be very tricky to track down (debug) and being able to replicate a bug, doesnt even mean they know the cause. It's up to L6, once reproed a bug, to start a branch to investigate, track down, debug, solve, test and release a fix. Problem is, sometimes these bugs are affecting a very small percentage of userbase, so they probably think It is not worth it.

Are you sure you fully pushed the transmitter down to the base? The base does flesh red even when the transmitter isn't fully docked. Happened to me when I first bought my first G10...:P

It happens sometimes. For example, I still prefer the fender amp sims I do have in my FH 1500, which is considered "old gen" - and never really digged those in the Helix, at a level that I dropped the amp/cab all together and moved to a Iridium for the amp/cab simulation. Never looked back. Still using the HX for everything else I need and that works for me. Happens, especially when you are expecting a specific sound that you already know and that's printed in your memory producing a bias (like your old M13 stuff), or in my case when you know the real deal (as I've those fender amps so I know how they should sound), and I can say they aren't just there in the HX but they were in the Firehawk...so yeah, I moved on to find a smaller footprint platform (than the boat anchor FH1500) that worked for me for that specific tone.

That is already covered by the rd2rk post. :)

Isnt about number of blocks, but about how much DSP each effect is eating. :) Freeze/hold (poly sustain), tape delay, digital delay, reverb, cab/IR....that's too much DSP for the stomp. PS: my comment is referred to your original plan, first post. :)

You are asking to much power (and two FX loops) to the HX Stomp. For the things you are asking, the full helix should do the job.

You should contact StageCue, They do pedal to rack conversion, and they offer custom services. Spoiler Alert; isnt gonna be cheap... http://www.stagecue.com/products.html

Yes. :) You can control Tap/Tuner with an external switch, via Global Settings. Depending if is it's a two switch pedal or a single switch, you'll be setting FS4 and/or FS5 as TAP/Tuner and it will work just fine. Holding the switch will kick into Tuner, tapping will set the tempo. If it's a single switch I believe you need to split the HX Stomp Footswitch port with a Y cable (TRS to TS/TS), as this port it's for two exp pedals or two FS. I do that with a cheap but very solid Ampero Switch, and works flawless. I can't see why you couldn't use that MXR Tap to do the same. As soon as it's a momentary FS, it should work once properly setup in the Globals.

It's totally fine to discuss, no worries about that. Remember any audio interface, as soon as isn't called by a driver, it's just an expensive dead brick...which means is doing nothing as audio interface. ADACs arent being called, ports aren't being called, there is not "wetbar" doing anything, at all. Think of a lamp bulb, and the switch on the wall. You don't want the light, you switch it off. The audio interface driver, is doing that. As soon as it is installed, it will call for the audio interface ONLY when required through its driver; by windows system, by a DAW, by an audio app etc. But if no driver is being called by anything, the audio interface is just virtually off. The USB cable it is NOT an audio cable, it does just send and receive data + V and G. You see, if the driver isn't being called/used, as in your case, no digital audio is being sent or received. What you are asking is already there. Would be a waste of money, and a useless function from a design/engineering POV, adding a onboard function to shut off the HX/Helix audio interface. It's really like adding a switch to a light bulb. :) Then, if you want to use an hammer, you could disable the HX audio driver in the device manager. No Driver running, No Audio Interface. But sorry, even if you do this, you are not solving the noise issue. Hope you see the point here. :)

Doesn't matter what ADAC is suffering the interference, doesn't tell anything about the quality of such ADAC or device which is using it. As I explained above, electromagnetic interferences (and/or ground loop noises) are NOT being carried as an audio signal from PC to HX, not sure why you keep mixing the audio interface thing with the noise aspect. It's like water spilling into a piece of paper, which is not making paper and water the same element. The carrier is the USB cable as a electric wire (not audio signal), and the fact there is grounding being shared. Again and again, the noise you are hearing IS NOT BEING sent as audio signal. You can potentially get that same noise in any device being used in that same environment. You can get terrible ground loops and EMIs even with 40K$ broadcast level audio equipment.

That noise you hear is not "moving" as an audio signal, from your laptop to the HX Stomp, so the fact you stopped windows from using the HX Stomp as audio interface won't fix the issue. This action will only prevent the HX Stomp to be used as audio interface for Windows system sounds, and default audio speakers. One of the problems with these devices, is their ADACs are also grounded with USB, and if those converters aren't able to reject the noise (bad isolation by design, crappy cable, ground loops, strong EMIs etc etc), you get that noise generated at ADAC level. Without going too technical, your HX Stomp converters are also grounded with your laptop via USB cable, and ADACs in the HX Stomp are generating the noise. It's not noise generated by the PC, and then sent as audio, trough the USB. The fact you don't get that noise when not using the charger, is probably because you opened the ground loop. Are your laptop charger and your HX Stomp, sharing the same wall socket? Is your wall socket properly grounded? Is that socket also powering amps, video monitors, and other stuff? You need to investigate all these things and see if you can find a setup which reduce the problem at acceptable levels. You could also try a cheap USB isolator, that sometimes may even completely solve the problem (sometimes won't)

Just click on the speaker icon, on the bottom/right side of your windows system. There you directly set what audio interface you want to use for windows sounds. For example, if your PC has the typical "Realtek" internal audio, you can set this as default for speakers, and it should stay that way.

EMI (electromagnetic interference) is pretty common with external audio interfaces, and can be virtually anything. In my experience, the worst kind of interference comes from video cards and monitors, so if you have a monitor connected via HDMI cable, that's a good candidate for EMI noise through USB audio. You need to investigate and try different things, like plugging HX Stomp and PC in different wall sockets, or turning off possible EMI emitters, like ACs, video monitors, TVs, etc etc... As for the amp playing the PC system sounds, that's normal and expected, as the HX Stomp it is indeed an audio interface, so windows will use it. Depending what you want to do with that USB connection (editing presets? DAW? updating? etc..), you could just disable the HX Stomp to be used for the windows sounds. It's all in the manual anyway. :)

You can download the H9 VST 30 days trial, and check yourself. It's same algos you find in the pedal so they will sound pretty much the same.

That guy is mostly a single coil guy, and that's a tone which is not in the character of an SG, even if it has P90... let's not even talk if it has stock 490/498 humbuckers which are muddy and dark by default. Even the wirings are different, so are the available switch positions to mix the pups and shape it through volume/tones pots. I do have an SG standard, and I do have strats... there is no way I can get a SG tone out of the strats, and viceversa. Tone core starts with the pickups, especially for that kind of bluesy tone.

No offence, but this looks like a huge waste of time to me. If you don't like the sound you can get out of the Helix, just move on, sell it and buy something else as digging at that level is going nowhere in terms of possible solutions. It's like when you buy a new guitar, and you don't like something in the core of it, like the frets, or the tone, or even the color....and you start swapping parts and wasting days, weeks...and money, trying to change the nature of the beast, until that day you get bored and you flip it. When there is something that bugs you that level it will never go away because of the grown bias affecting everything you'll be doing with it. 100% no offence, just my opinion. :) Then, if you care of my POV on the specific subject; I never heard something that wrong as you are reporting, really. :)

+1 for the stand. I keep them just a tad under ear level and that's bringing back some brightness, but in general they also like some EQ to de-mud the response. Also you can try the LOW cut on the back.

Sounds like something went wrong during update. Before to proceed be sure to; Do Not plug your Helix in a USB hub Be sure the USB ports you are using arent also using an internal hub Do Not run any other software while updating If a USB port fails updating, try another one (for example, my laptop has only one port that allow me to update my Helix/HX without issues) Use the stock USB cable, or the shortest USB cable you have available. Turn OFF the Helix. Now, close the HX Edit (once the unit is stuck it wont communicate with the HX Edit anymore). UNPLUG THE HELIX from the PC/MAC Close any application running on your computer (browsers, streaming apps, music apps, etc etc) Grab the latest Line6 Updater and install it. Now, assuming you have the Helix Floor here, reboot the unit while holding down FS 6 and 12 (Safe Boot Mode). Once the unit is ready, plug back the Helix USB and launch the updater and feed the unit with the firmware you want to install. Good luck. :)

I bet you can...:)

Its not really like night and day, but little glitches like warble and false harmonics are less common with Poly Pitch in complex phrases. At least that's my personal experience, using these effects intensively. Experience might probably vary between different styles and genre...etc :)

I do use a lot the poly blocks, and IME the Poly Pitch seems tracking better than Capo, especially for soloing, phrasing, glissato etc etc. Capo is fine for very basic things, like chords in first position and powerchords.

Open a support ticket. These problems are not fixable via UI.

If you are not expecting it to sound like a 4x12, then it should be fine. :) For sure (still to my ears), when used as speaker simulation, sounds more convincing than when used as FRFR, so maybe it would work good for you. Im using them as FRFR because I do also run synth sh*t through them, so speaker sim isnt an option for me. :(

I dont have the 212+, but I do have two 112+, and I also have a FH1500. FH1500 as FRFR still sounds better to me. Cleaner and brighter than the 112+. But that it's just my personal opinion. I only suggest to try before to buy. ;) Also not sure we can call it as "old". FH1500 launched in 2016, Powercab in 2018. :)

The Stomp doesnt have dedicated setlists. All presets are stored in a single setlist, so what I do with my FAVs is to store them in the first positions, and move down the less inportant and/or experimental/WIP presets. The big brothers, Helix Floor, Rack, LT etc, they have dedicated User Setlists, separated from the stock presets and templates.