PierM

Doesn't matter what ADAC is suffering the interference, doesn't tell anything about the quality of such ADAC or device which is using it. As I explained above, electromagnetic interferences (and/or ground loop noises) are NOT being carried as an audio signal from PC to HX, not sure why you keep mixing the audio interface thing with the noise aspect. It's like water spilling into a piece of paper, which is not making paper and water the same element. The carrier is the USB cable as a electric wire (not audio signal), and the fact there is grounding being shared. Again and again, the noise you are hearing IS NOT BEING sent as audio signal. You can potentially get that same noise in any device being used in that same environment. You can get terrible ground loops and EMIs even with 40K$ broadcast level audio equipment.

That noise you hear is not "moving" as an audio signal, from your laptop to the HX Stomp, so the fact you stopped windows from using the HX Stomp as audio interface won't fix the issue. This action will only prevent the HX Stomp to be used as audio interface for Windows system sounds, and default audio speakers. One of the problems with these devices, is their ADACs are also grounded with USB, and if those converters aren't able to reject the noise (bad isolation by design, crappy cable, ground loops, strong EMIs etc etc), you get that noise generated at ADAC level. Without going too technical, your HX Stomp converters are also grounded with your laptop via USB cable, and ADACs in the HX Stomp are generating the noise. It's not noise generated by the PC, and then sent as audio, trough the USB. The fact you don't get that noise when not using the charger, is probably because you opened the ground loop. Are your laptop charger and your HX Stomp, sharing the same wall socket? Is your wall socket properly grounded? Is that socket also powering amps, video monitors, and other stuff? You need to investigate all these things and see if you can find a setup which reduce the problem at acceptable levels. You could also try a cheap USB isolator, that sometimes may even completely solve the problem (sometimes won't)

Just click on the speaker icon, on the bottom/right side of your windows system. There you directly set what audio interface you want to use for windows sounds. For example, if your PC has the typical "Realtek" internal audio, you can set this as default for speakers, and it should stay that way.

EMI (electromagnetic interference) is pretty common with external audio interfaces, and can be virtually anything. In my experience, the worst kind of interference comes from video cards and monitors, so if you have a monitor connected via HDMI cable, that's a good candidate for EMI noise through USB audio. You need to investigate and try different things, like plugging HX Stomp and PC in different wall sockets, or turning off possible EMI emitters, like ACs, video monitors, TVs, etc etc... As for the amp playing the PC system sounds, that's normal and expected, as the HX Stomp it is indeed an audio interface, so windows will use it. Depending what you want to do with that USB connection (editing presets? DAW? updating? etc..), you could just disable the HX Stomp to be used for the windows sounds. It's all in the manual anyway. :)

You can download the H9 VST 30 days trial, and check yourself. It's same algos you find in the pedal so they will sound pretty much the same.

That guy is mostly a single coil guy, and that's a tone which is not in the character of an SG, even if it has P90... let's not even talk if it has stock 490/498 humbuckers which are muddy and dark by default. Even the wirings are different, so are the available switch positions to mix the pups and shape it through volume/tones pots. I do have an SG standard, and I do have strats... there is no way I can get a SG tone out of the strats, and viceversa. Tone core starts with the pickups, especially for that kind of bluesy tone.

No offence, but this looks like a huge waste of time to me. If you don't like the sound you can get out of the Helix, just move on, sell it and buy something else as digging at that level is going nowhere in terms of possible solutions. It's like when you buy a new guitar, and you don't like something in the core of it, like the frets, or the tone, or even the color....and you start swapping parts and wasting days, weeks...and money, trying to change the nature of the beast, until that day you get bored and you flip it. When there is something that bugs you that level it will never go away because of the grown bias affecting everything you'll be doing with it. 100% no offence, just my opinion. :) Then, if you care of my POV on the specific subject; I never heard something that wrong as you are reporting, really. :)

+1 for the stand. I keep them just a tad under ear level and that's bringing back some brightness, but in general they also like some EQ to de-mud the response. Also you can try the LOW cut on the back.

Sounds like something went wrong during update. Before to proceed be sure to; Do Not plug your Helix in a USB hub Be sure the USB ports you are using arent also using an internal hub Do Not run any other software while updating If a USB port fails updating, try another one (for example, my laptop has only one port that allow me to update my Helix/HX without issues) Use the stock USB cable, or the shortest USB cable you have available. Turn OFF the Helix. Now, close the HX Edit (once the unit is stuck it wont communicate with the HX Edit anymore). UNPLUG THE HELIX from the PC/MAC Close any application running on your computer (browsers, streaming apps, music apps, etc etc) Grab the latest Line6 Updater and install it. Now, assuming you have the Helix Floor here, reboot the unit while holding down FS 6 and 12 (Safe Boot Mode). Once the unit is ready, plug back the Helix USB and launch the updater and feed the unit with the firmware you want to install. Good luck. :)

I bet you can...:)

Its not really like night and day, but little glitches like warble and false harmonics are less common with Poly Pitch in complex phrases. At least that's my personal experience, using these effects intensively. Experience might probably vary between different styles and genre...etc :)

I do use a lot the poly blocks, and IME the Poly Pitch seems tracking better than Capo, especially for soloing, phrasing, glissato etc etc. Capo is fine for very basic things, like chords in first position and powerchords.

Open a support ticket. These problems are not fixable via UI.

If you are not expecting it to sound like a 4x12, then it should be fine. :) For sure (still to my ears), when used as speaker simulation, sounds more convincing than when used as FRFR, so maybe it would work good for you. Im using them as FRFR because I do also run synth sh*t through them, so speaker sim isnt an option for me. :(

I dont have the 212+, but I do have two 112+, and I also have a FH1500. FH1500 as FRFR still sounds better to me. Cleaner and brighter than the 112+. But that it's just my personal opinion. I only suggest to try before to buy. ;) Also not sure we can call it as "old". FH1500 launched in 2016, Powercab in 2018. :)

The Stomp doesnt have dedicated setlists. All presets are stored in a single setlist, so what I do with my FAVs is to store them in the first positions, and move down the less inportant and/or experimental/WIP presets. The big brothers, Helix Floor, Rack, LT etc, they have dedicated User Setlists, separated from the stock presets and templates.

Yep, it happens, and that's the classical cause of the tap/tempo glitches some people are reporting around threads. Those are not real 3PDT footswitches, but just mechanical FS that stomps against tactile microswitches. So, if you want to clean the thing, spraying against the FS isnt doing anything.. You should spray directly against them, which will require a full disassembly (see the video), but IME this works just for a limited amount of time;

To me happened to a basically brand new unit, which is powered behind two lines of protection; UPS and Power Conditioner. Voltage hits my pedalboard after Power Conditioner V/A has been stabilized (I do use the same line to protect my workstation NAS racks) so - at least in my case - I can totally rule out the power theory. I think it's just random stuff, and maybe just a weak spot that sometimes (rarely) is being triggered. Never happened to my old floor or rack in 8 years. Looks more a HX thing.

After the reset you will still be on 3.15, so that's not a problem. Then restore your last backup and you'll be fine. Happened to me too, out of nowhere...so it's one of those random glitches that happens to computers I guess. Since looks like it's happening after a boot (and not during a session), it could be related to a memory allocation error or R/W error while booting and/or shutting down...who knows. For sure is not your fault. ;)

You could check solderings in the switch that select the pickups. Also check the same switch isn't dirty or malfunctioning (happened to me once, and was missing middle position). Other than that I wouldn't mess with the main PCB.

You could grab a cheap Headphone amp (20 bucks for the Behringer HA400), and plug the RC500 line output to it, and headphones to the headphones out. This is just pushing the line level to headphone level. Won't sound pristine, but it should work just fine. You'll also need a Y cable with two TS jacks for the RC500 output going into a TRS jack for the Headphone amp. (Guitar----->HX Stomp----->RC500----->HeadphoneAMP----->Headphones)

I use PCs since the day they released lol. Please dont teach me how to use them...XD Never used their IRs. I use them as FRFR, and know every single aspect of them. The blanket is there, but as I said, as soon you are used to it, it will be fine. In fact I still use them. Also, blanket, the way I meant, means there is lack of clarity, Im not talking about highs or brightness. So there is not tips and tricks you can do to solve a clarity issue. Anyway, they are fine. Opinions. ;)

Powercabs are fine, but whatever setup you are using, they suffer the "blanket over the speaker" sound. Again, as soon your ears are used to that sound, you are probably gonna be fine with them...but if you jump from other systems, like studio monitors, or Catalyst, or other and better solutions, you really hear that boomy and muffled output, especially if they are placed on the floor. Even my old FH1500 sounds better than the two PC+, but the thing is heavy as a truck, so I can only use it at home.

Yes I had this same problem on both helix rack control and helix floor. Never had this issue using the tap button on the rack front, neither when using remote footswitches and/or midi commands. Also my HX Stomp doesn't suffer the issue, but it feels it's using different FS. When I investigated the issue on my boards, I've found that sometimes the footswitch was getting two taps in a single FS press/release cycle. So sometimes tapping 60 was resulting in ~120, or even more. Sometimes was like getting a tap when pressing, then another tap when releasing. Sometimes was just an instant double tap, resulting in a full throttle BMP... Sometimes even quitting the tuner, was double tapping. That was probably a malfunction on the little switch that sits under the mechanical footswitch (Helix does use a tactile switch being pressed by a FS mechanical assembly, which is the one you kick). Not saying you have the same problem that I encountered, but yeah, I had this. Didn't found any definitive solution, as it depends on a multitude of factors, such angle of pressure, applied force, speed etc... Probably, in my case at least, the solution would have been to replace the tactile switch, but for me didn't worth it the effort.

Not a valid statistic, but I've (had) 3 Helix (floor, rack and Stomp), along almost 8 years, and only get once on the stomp. I'm a OCD guy, so I had a full backup to restore. Was indeed random, and not a user error. They are computers, and as computers they go fubar every now and then...