PierM

I did found one on Amazon and works perfect, much better than the original. Does last way more and doesnt drop the charge when guitar is hanging on the wall. I cant post here, as I dont think it's allowed, but there are alternatives out there. ;)

From a mere DSP standpoint, the HXFX hosts the same SHARK Chip as the rest of the family. This means it could probably run an amp/cab block algorithm as any other HX device, but there is an important hardware difference; the HX FX doesn't offer the same impedance circuit at the input, because wasn't designed to drive the amp block with the proper "circuit load". (downside of that same aspect, is that fuzzes aren't behaving the same as the full Helix/HX) Then, from a market standpoint, not sure would be a good move to change the core purpose of a product, years after its launch.

That's because LL it's doing hardware toggling, (it's not a VST), so if you alternate ON/OFF commands between HX and LL, within the same cycle, the LL will return in its initial electrical status (0 listening). It can be hard to understand, but I will try; This is an hypothetic cycle, and to keep that working - ONCE YOU SENT INITIAL BLOCK STATUS TO LL SWITCHES - you should only use LL to control the HX, and it will work just fine with everything in sync (HX it will only receive); HX; Footswitch Pressed - Bypass ON - CC XY Send Value 127 LL; CC XY Receive Value 127 - Footswitch Led ON LL; Footswitch Pressed - CC XY Send Value 0 - Footswitch Led OFF HX; CC XY Receive Value 0 - Bypass OFF LL; Footswitch Pressed - CC XY Send Value 127 - Footswitch Led ON HX; CC XY Receive Value 127 - Bypass ON LL; Footswitch Pressed - CC XY Send Value 0 - Footswitch Led OFF GO TO POINT 4 If you alternate commands between the two hardware, within the same cycle, you get that (you are basically trying to control the controller); HX; Footswitch Pressed - Bypass ON - CC XY Send Value 127 LL; CC XY Receive Value 127 - Footswitch Led ON HX; Footswitch Pressed - Bypass OFF - CC XY Send Value 0 LL; CC XY Receive Value 0 - Footswitch Led OFF LL; Footswitch Pressed - CC XY Send Value 0 - Footswitch Led stays OFF HX; CC XY Receive Value 0 - Bypass Stays OFF LL; Footswitch Pressed again - CC XY Send Value 127 - Footswitch Led ON If you need to go back to HX for any reason, keeping the two device in "sync", you should move to HX switches when latest value sent to LL was 127 (ON). To avoid that mess, as I said earlier here, once you've everything in sync you should only use the LL to remote the HX. This is all due the fact there is hardware toggle involved. Momentary wouldn't have this side effect. Same when using NOTEs to trigger commands in other devices. For example, I can program the LL to communicate with my EDPs, via NOTEs, and it works just perfect, because the EDPs are providing a Note for each command received on the hardware buttons. (Still not possible with Stomp to completely solve the function to automatically send a MIDI packet with all FS status at each preset load.)

no, you either set LL to be a PC controller or a CC/Note controller, called custom mode. Btw, I pass, we are just confusing the OP, and I have already answered. Seems to me you dont know the Live Logic, but you keep trying to win the argument you started, being wrong. :)

You can use whatever CC you want, doesnt matter. LL will listen at the Midi Channel for the assigned CC. And this is per switch. LL receive CCs, Notes, Tempo/Clock, and can also receive and pass thru the incoming. Your suggestion isnt a solution, as LL doesnt offer multiple presets that you can manually program with Stomp, so the best option is to set LL to call for HX Stomp FS CCs, but again, it will not send ON/OFF status back to LL. And even if you had multiple presets on LL, you couldnt get the LL receiving all led/FS status at preset load.

Of course it does. But cant receive anything from stomp, since stomp does not produce bypass midi. Just did another video for you, ipad simulating HX stomp sending midi bypass back to LL. https://www.dropbox.com/s/85hf425qmfq8rer/IMG_8138.MOV?dl=0

Just to avoid confusion, I just meant that (NO MIDI BEING SENT ON BYPASS STATUS): https://www.dropbox.com/s/dblw6sqspkhy2fn/IMG_8137.MOV?dl=0

The OP is asking why leds on the controller arent in sync with leds on Stomp. So when he browse the presets, nothing happens on the controller side. Why that? Because Helix isnt using midi to communicate those bypass status to the external world, and even if you had a controller listening for CCs, to pre-set switches to either 127 or 0, you wont get any led switch sync while browsing presets, because nothing is being sent. They would still be all 0, waiting for first press. You are talking about commands, that's a different scenario, and here it's stomp being the controller. It cant be a valid answer, as sounds like Helix is sending bypass status via midi, but its controller cant receive it, which isnt true.

I didnt say you cant send CCs from Stomp, so it's pointless. HX and Helix, arent sending bypass status, period.

If you are referring to the sound of the fingers, sliding on strings, that's potentially happening with a wide range of variables....so comparing the two devices, wont help you breaking down the issue. Usually it's a countereffect of hi gain settings, especially with bright amps/cabs, but it can be exacerbated by compressors, strings, pickup height, playing style etc etc. Also, it can be expected when using the acoustic sim, similar to what you get with piezo saddles. We need more info. :)

HX Stomp, as any other Helix device, DOES NOT generate blocks/footswitches MIDI status (it only has its own reserved FS CCs), so isn't sending anything about the ON/OFF situation when you load a preset, nor when you change bypass directly on the HX Stomp. No MIDI is being sent about that status change. It's just a passive control, as it happens with 99% of multiFX pedals, controlled by non proprietary controllers. Even if you'd connect the MIDI OUT from HX Stomp to the Live controller, you won't get any information about that aspect. If you just entered a preset, with blocks ON, you won't get that status loaded on your midi controller. Same if you have a HX block and its relative switch on the controller ON, and then you turn that block off within the HX Stomp, you won't receive anything on the MIDI controller. This means you always need to manually put the two device in "sync" as for the ON/OFF status of each block/FS you are remoting from that controller, and once you are good, only use the MIDI controller to keep the LEDs on the controller matching the status on the stomp.

Just Microsoft making your life harder with useless and stupid code, that they decided to bury under layers of settings, so you have to waste your time to find out what's going on. Just install the latest driver, and turn memory integrity off. Again, it's a useless feature for a standard user.

Yeah I do also lurk from time to time hunting for DI posts, but ran away when they started mumbling about sliders and knobs...geeeeez

Those guys at TGP have way to much free time in their hands...lol

I want to start saying I do have the stomp, and never had a real problem with recorded level...so first thing to check is you don't have way to much headroom at the preset ouput. A weak preset output is sending a signal which is too close to noise floor, which means pulling that noise from the floor as soon as you add level up in DAW. A good recording starts from a solid signal at the source. If your preset is well balanced at the output (which means you have the right amount of headroom, far away from noise floor), you should be fine at the DAW (the rule of -18dB is valid), and with enough room for mixing without pulling noise or clipping the track.

This proves my point; wasnt about sustain. Was about feedback. Apples and oranges. ;)

You need an editor with also the sound engine that mimics the hardware. That is called Helix Native. :) HX Edit is just a bidirectional remote editor.

Talking about sustain it's always a foggy territory as there are like billions of variables, and possible wrong use of the term "sustain", while the expected effect is volume feedback, or viceversa... Sustain per se, is just the string vibration decay. So anything affecting the quality of that aspect, will reduce it. And that's all happening despite what's coming after the guitar. What's coming after the guitar, it's only amplifying, squeezing and pushing that decay to audible levels. If you pick an open string and you get the natural and long decay (no fret buzz), then there is not a sustain issue. If the problem onlys appears on fretted notes, then we are back to fret buzz, uncertain technique, etc etc... The more I read the answers here, the more looks like it's not about natural sustain...:)

We all do! XD

Sometimes even just a transparent overdrive (klon clone), with gain at minimum, can give that extra sustain kick you feel is missing.

That's the most useless bot ever. LOL

If a note decays instantly as you said, it's either fret buzz, or pickups way to close to strings. Said that, Helix does nothing special to the sound that could produce "no sustain", so if isnt the playing, if isnt the fret buzz, if isnt the guitar, it's probably something wrong with the setup. Global settings for in/out? Pad? Noise Gate somewhere?

It's an interesting topic, as nobody seems never wondering about their hearing "system", so it's always amp/guitar fault (not saying it's your case, but it could have been). People tends to think they are a static systems, so what they perceive today must be the same as next week, or yesterday, which isnt always true. There are many conditions (stress, long time exposure to loud environment, cold/flu, overtraining, earwax, etc...) that can produce a temporary notch in our hearing capabilities, usually between 4 and 6Khz. These are extremely sensible frequencies for guitar players, so even a small notch can make a great amp sounding like a lemon. It happens, the important thing is that it's just temporary... :P

Sounds like you have a bad linear taper pot for volume (or a bad audio taper pot, or a mix with modern wiring which doesnt help), which for their construction they let bleed the signal to ground linearly (resistance ramps up too quickly for our volume perception), while human sound pressure perception works better in Log. Linear are good for tone pots, annoying for volume pots, especially for people playing live at high volumes. You can improve that aspect wiring a good 250k CTS audio taper for volume, and wiring volume, caps and tone pots with '50 wiring. * Audio Taper = LOG

Truth! XD