PierM

Helix Cab is an algo, not an iR. Official description; "We call the speaker emulations in Helix “hybrid cabs”, because they use a number of proprietary algorithms to reproduce the same frequency and dynamic accuracy typically seen in a 2048-point impulse response, but at far lower DSP usage. Not only that, a hybrid cab allows you to move the microphone from directly on the grill to up to 12 inches away (in .5 inch increments), and accurately captures the proximity effect/bass boost of the microphone in all positions while doing so. All of this detail means that the speaker cabinet reacts just like the real thing, not just sounding better but feeling better under your fingers. Due to the efficiency improvements hybrid cabs offer, it’s actually possible to run up to four speaker cabinets at once in Helix (depending on DSP load), all with different microphones and microphone positions! The main thing to get out of all of this is that while Helix offers the ability to load third-party impulse responses, you shouldn’t feel that it’s necessary to do so to get fantastic tones. HX cabs offer authentic speaker and microphone behavior with more flexibility and lower DSP usage, leaving you more processing headroom for effects."

That's the Tap Tempo. Is the default setting for that FS.

Front ports have limited available power, which is also shared (so current draw isnt stable). Also, they use crappy cables that arent shielded for EMIs. Front ports are fine for composite devices, low current stuff, low level driver devices (so mouse, keyboards, wireless dongles etc etc).

You must have missed the fact this is a porting from Line6 Metallurgy plugin (as well as the other amps added), which is a collection of metal/doom amps, also sporting the new cab technology.

... Jimi Hendrix, Adam Jones, Kurt Cobain, Pete Townsend, Melvins, Pelican, ISIS, etc etc etc...

This was exactly my suggestion back in the days, when they started changing the firmware update process. Would probably reduce the problem a bit... But honestly not sure we would solve all these problems once for all, because as I said earlier, I did get similar problems in the past, even following each step correctly. I still believe the bigger offender here is a glitch during data transmission from local storage to device, which happens while updating. Not even sure this would be a viable solution, but best system would be 1) Download package 2) Upload package to device to reserved memory (NO INSTALL YET) 3) Local MD5 Checksum 4) If valid then INSTALL 5) Validation and reboot I've the fear memory is so tight that there is no room to do a seamless upgrade, which means at least 1 level of redundancy with the previous firmware.

For what I have seen yesterday, the HX firmware button was grayed out, forcing me to update HX Edit first. Was impossible to do otherwise.

True, but let's also say the sloppy L6 forum support doesn't help. They didn't even start and pinned a proper official 3.5 thread, where you could post feedback and search for help.

Install should start after package has been downloaded. If you look at the messages while it's updating, it does download the package, install (send data), and validate.

In my experience, the moving variable here is the USB connection. For some reason the HX driver is very sensible to the USB port being used, and also the USB cable for the connection. Means at setup parity (same PC, same HX, same OS, same everything), you can go from success to fail, just because a "wrong" USB port and/or cable. I've been one of those guys, doing everything right, and still getting random crashes. Now I know that I have to use THAT specific USB port on my laptop, and the shortest USB cable I do have in house. Never had the issue again, since years. These updates aren't being transported to device, and then auto installed locally. They works with PC/Laptop sending data, so even a small glitch during that process, will fail the update.

It's pretty much a useless effort to chase Microsoft with Memory Integrity policies. They keeps changing things from time to time, and drivers that were perfectly compliant within a version, they are flagged as unsafe the next OS update. I wouldn't be surprised to know that L6 has no idea what's the problem is exactly. Just turn it off, as it's basically impossible to have all drivers compatible with that Core Isolation. As soon as you don't browse porn 24/7, and download warez, you are gonna be fine.

Same here. 10 minutes, smooth as ice.

Contact support. I do have the same transmitter, and does last at least 5 hours with a full charge.

Firehawk is a dead project, so nobody is listening your complain. Said that, even if you had a smartphone or an iPad, I can tell you the editor works s**t as it's also an abandoned app.

It's weird, as I'm also in Italy, and used to have a Sweetwater account for years, but now it says has been deactivated. :(

I do sincerely appreciate that, but my variax was grabbing dust since pandemic started...as I sold my Helix Rack which I was using with its VDI interface. I also have a FH 1500 but for some reason variax isn't working with it, and I can't even think to ship that 30Kg amp overseas for a check'n'repair. Also, despite I do have something like 30 guitars, most of them expensive custom shop s++t, that variax has one of the best neck ever and I want to play it as much as I can. I've been probably lucky, but seriously that JTV 59 neck/fretboard is just bananas. :)

There is a channel volume in the amp block, you can use that to balance back. If you have very hot pups, I still suggest to start from guitar volume. Sometimes even just a little notch under 10 it's enough to move from the edge to a safe clean zone.

also remember you have a guitar volume knob; just use it. :) Also, for a tube amp clean base, just turn down the drive section at a level that gives you the clean base you are searching for.

That's how dynamic range works, in any audio equipment apparatus. Let's say you have a pedal equipped with 20bit ACs, giving you a good 110dB of dynamic range, with a noise floor sitting at -90dB. Means you have 90dB of range under 0dB (SNR), and 20dB above 0dB (Headroom). That area above 0dB will start clipping as soon as you hit the headroom ceiling (clipping port). Above clipping there is distortion region (transients are all within that area). So, back to helix; that level at the end it's giving you an extra tool to fine tune the gain staging before hitting the DA. If you hit that stage with a good and solid signal (dancing between -18 and +3dB), you are fine, and there is no need to boost that stage over 0dB. It's just a final boost that gives you the opportunity to do little changes on the fly, depending on the situation, without redoing all the gain staging in the preset. Again, 90% of the time, you are good to go with values between 0dB and -/+3dB for adjustments on the fly. There shouldnt be any reason to boost a signal with 20dB, unless you are hitting the output stage at -32/-30dB, which is a very weak and noisy signal (since this is too close to noise floor, and boosting will pull that noise up.) You do your gain staging BEFORE to hit the output block, trying to stay in the headroom zone, or just a tad under it. If you do so, that output level should be fine at zero.

So, just to recap; you pushed the output to +20dB and were getting signal clipping, so you are letting us know that turning back to 0dB, solved the issue. Output block "level" isnt a last stage volume, it's a boost stage hitting DA, so everything above 0dB is indeed squeezing headroom, and after that there's clipping. The volume you are talking about is the knob on the Helix top/front. That one gives you unity gain when all maxed out, so no boost, no clipping.

Man, give me a break lol! My original battery is dead. Original l6 batteries are non existent in the local market. Original VDI adapter, non existent as well. What exactly should I do to use my Variax?... :)

Why dont you just use looper commands? You wouldnt need to clear, as soon you set 2 or 3 footswitches to do like FS 1, REC/OV FS 2, PLAY/STOP Or FS2 STOP and FS3 PLAY Once you stopped, next REC press will just start recording a new loop. They didnt put a clear function, as Stop will already put the looper in two options: Play, Overdub, will start again....REC, will just clean and record a new loop. Then, if you really feel the need of a clear; You can set a FS, to do a REC on press and STOP on release, so a quick tap, will record nothing, and drop the old loop...but this isnt really required as soon as you STOP. There is plenty of control with looper commands. With an external controller, or just a external switch for FS4 and 5, you can have a full looper right there, with Rec/Ov, play/stop, Undo, reverse, etc etc... But again, what you need is a stop button, so that next rec will just record a new loop, with no play involved.

Im using the Iridium instead amp/cab on HXS, as my core guitar tone always move around a 65 blackface. But I also put an amp block (usually a princetone block, set with very low drive and flat eq) in front of Iridium, as this makes the miracle of creating a HUGE clean base, which to my ears is way more close to my actual tube blackface. The thing in the top left corner is just an expression knob, that I can patch to zoia CV port when needed. Means I can have an extra knob to control whatever param from Zoia, or HXS, or Looper. The oher two boxes are the WET pass for the Plus Pedal, and the strymon mini FAV, that flip my El Capstain from a standard tape echo, to a tape looper. WIDI tech works standalone, and if you have more WIDI device, it can create a closed group, with a Master and a group of 4 devices. In my case, I do have HXS set as Master, and Zoia as part of a WIDI group with a WIDI Host (that I use with either a fishman tripleplay midi pickup, or a keyboard, or whatever MIDI that needs a Host), and other two WIDI jacks; one for the Live Logic Midi controller on the ground (remoting HXS FS 1,2,3,4,5 + Tuner), and the other for my Echoplex loopers. Im not forced to use all of them all the time. WIDI will just connect with what he "feels" available. It can be set to auto pair, or better, to what we want specifically, as if it were hardwired. Then, an iPad can connect to such group, or single WIDIs, offering MIDI control over everything is available. Latency is 3ms average. Cant report any problem, even when doing stutter sampling, which can be extremely fast. PSU is ZUMA for everything but HXS. I do use its original small Line6 PS, velcroed in a corner, as it gives me a more stable HXS boot. Sometimes with ZUMA, using the current doubler, I was getting HXS booting with no audio. Using its own PS, seems solving the problem. Cables are all Rockboard, various versions and lenght, depending on the need. I did a wiring plan before to start, to grab the shortest version for each line. There are TRS, TS, TRS to TS/TS, 5cm, 10, 30, 40, 60, etc etc...all same Rockbkard series. They works good, but there is MUCH better stuff on the market, but I needed a very tight package, and these are doing the job. Then there are angled MIDI TRS A for ZOIA, converting to DIN for the patch bay on the back. Also an angled USB B to USB A that does remote HXS USB port to the back. Good for HXEdit, firmware update, or direct MIDI with iPad. 9V cables are those original from ZUMA. There is just a little daisy chain for the Tuner. Zoia is an intimidating beast, and does require some energy...but there are SOOOO many good patches from the community, that you can use it right away out of the box, and take your time to dive into the programming. You can make your own reverbs literally from scratch, or program a LFO circuit that does control a param in the HXS, that does react to playing dynamics through a slew limiter etc etc.. Its just a door to the outer space. :)

I dig it! Looks very versatile. I also recently completed mine. Purpose is ambient/live looping, with part of it in the HXS Loop, and part before HXS. Zoia is working as "brain" It can automate HXS params, act as controller, or generative synth, or keyboard, or multi fx addon, swiss army knife. :) MIDI is using WIDI so the board can work standalone MIDI wise, or can be totally edited from the outside wirelessly (iPad, Live Logic, PC etc) HXS USB is remoted on the back, so no risk of damaging the port.

No, the HXS doesnt offer this option, as you have two rotary, one for scroll, one for select. I do agree that it's bloody annoying when I do accidentally twist the second one, losing my block with all settings in it. Would be cool to have a "performance mode" like Zoia, that deactivate stuff like that when needed.