PierM

Then, save your money for one of these ;) https://www.bluettipower.eu/products/ac200max-sp200

I also cant use the interface with windows 11. Also it says there is a new firmware for it, but as soon as it's downloaded, it does throw a USB error (device not connected).

It's always about personal needs and ears. Rule number 1. The Joyo would probably work great for your needs. Iridium cost more than the Joyo, but much less than a Stomp. Anyway, on paper, a 21ms Impulse is fine and absolutely enough for tight cab responses, with the mic very close to the speaker and maybe a small cabinet. For very focused mic position, and small cabs, a longer impulse would be primarly a waste. In the other hand, a longer impulse is helping in saving the full impulse decay, plus the inner frequencies and harmonics produced by the sound waves traveling within the cab. As for the mix; nothing can be reverse engineered by ears from a mix. You couldnt even tell if someone is playing an original 1959 400K dollars burst, or USA Les Paul, a Helix or a Fractal, a real stack of marshalls or a stack of IRs. I never follow this kind of logic, mostly because it would prevent me to buy more stuff, lol. I do tend to agree with you that if you dont need those pumped iR specs and more than 4 slots, then the Joyo seems the right choice. :) Upcoming 3.2 firmware rumors are whispering about new cab technology...Im also curious. o/

I would just use a snapshot to turn all blocks in bypass. If you are worried about the ADA conversion and latency, then just grab a cheap loop switch and put the HX in its send/return (like the One Control Tri Loop) . That's gonna be 100% true bypass. This way, even with HX FX bypassed, you can still use it as a command center. You still have 3 snapshots available on the HX FX, and other 3 on the Stomp. Again, imho that's enough to control all your preset stages. If you then implement MIDI between the two HX devices, you can use commands to interlink everything. I do suggest to download the manuals, and learn the true potential of these things. ;)

Yes, ALL BYPASS uses the CC#70. Analog or DSP bypass is then being set to Globals Settings Still I honestly believe you are overengineering the concept for what I understand are your needs, and completely missing the snapshot feature which would probably reduce at minimum the tap dancing. :) o/

No, it doesn't exist. Analog Bypass, as well as DSP Bypass, will bypass everything, so IN/OUT, SEND/RETURN. Also, Global Bypass in all HX Device, is always "listening" for hardware inputs, so it will auto lift as soon as you press something. If I may suggest, I would just use an external controller (for example a cheap Live Logic controller with 6 footswitches), plugged into HX FX, which is also sending/thru to HX Stomp. Then you can use such controller to just recall the six snapshot status, for clean, clean+, crunch, crunch+, lead, lead+, acting on both HX devices, via MIDI CCs. Then keep the two unit to do stomp mode, preset up/down etc.

Not sure I understand the scheme here, but if you are referring to only HX FX, you could send a ALL BYPASS command via MIDI Controller, then all the commands assigned to the HX FX footswitches will keep working, as Bypass only affects audio through (but as soon as you press a FS the global bypass will auto lift). It's a weird use of the HX FX, as you would basically use an external midi controller, to then use the HX FX as another midi controller, but I'm sure I'm missing something here. :) EDIT; clean, clean+, crunch, crunch+, lead, lead+. These are looking perfect things for a proper Snapshot setup. Using a dedicated preset for each of those states, will produce signal drops between presets (because of the DSP flush).

Only HX Stomp has the external FS option. The HX FX does use the EXP/Ext Amp ports to only plug expression pedals or to control Ext Amps channels. You'd need another MIDI controller to do all the extra stuff.

There is no such software, since there is no available BT on those devices. The thing you can do is to buy a CME WIDI Master (BT Midi), plug it on the MIDI ports of the HD Pro, and then use a MIDI controller app on android, to do whatever you want with your HD Pro, like changing presets, banks, tweaking effects through CCs etc etc. Not affiliated in any way, just a link as you asked. https://www.cme-pro.com/widi-master/

True, but then all he can send to the external amp, is just a dry signal with just early chain effects. The external loop of pedals he wanted to use, will only hit the main output, and also returning stereo wouldn work well, as he's forced to return before amp/cab to use the modeling, so he'd always output mono from that amp/cab block. He could get a stereo image at the end of the chain tho, using a stereo reverb or delay etc...Still not sure it would do what he's asking. At this point I believe would have much sense to just run external pedals in front, and use the send to just split modeling from real amp, but then he would still lose all the effects post modeling. That's why he virtually needs two separate fx loop. Just did a sketch of what he could get just using a stereo send block, and splitting to amp at the send jack, with a Y splitter;

This is a cab/mic modeler, with just a very basic iR support. It has its own amp and cab algos. Only 10 slots for external iR... That's in the therritory of Iridium, which has 3x3 slots (9 total, subdivided into 3 main amps), but with much lower quality, as this unit IR specs are just 44.1Khz, 21ms, 1024 points, versus 94Khz, 500ms, 48000 points. Not trying to sell you an iridium, but only 10 iR slots, at this quality, it might result in a good looking doorstop after couple of months, especially if those amp/cab models sucks... Just food for thought...

Yes, the variax battery does lose its capacity just sitting on a shelf. Im also against stocking multiple batteries for that reason. Recently I sold my Helix rack, which had the VDI interface providing also power. Now i only have the stomp, and main original battery is basically useless (does charge in 15 minutes, and last 10). I do have a third party amazon battery that Im using and works fine, but variax always been current hungry, so battery average duration is ridicolous. I wish I could mod the Variax as I did with my Stratocaster EOB, using a recharchable battery pack from fishman, but provided current isnt enough. I believe Im gonna build this adapter, so thank you for the reference thread. o/

What kind of action are you expecting from touching the FS? ..."touch switching" doesnt exist in any HX device, it's just touch for selecting/assigning. If touch is used in the globals (Stomp Select) then a tap on a FS with an assigned block, will select the assigned block (SELECTED, NOT TURNED ON/OFF). Useful for edits on the fly. Tap and and hold will ask if you want to assign the selected block to such FS. To turn a block on and off, you need to assign a FS to the bypass function, and then PRESS the FS to turn Bypass ON/OFF like any other pedal in the world. Touch tap only isnt gonna turn anything on or off. Seems like you are mixing up "Select" and "Bypass" functions. Really, just read the damn manual.

When it's about noise like that and ground loop is out of the equation, it's always EMIs and each environment it's a different story. USB ports, USB hubs, USB chargers, HDMI cables, RF on TVs, video/computer monitors, inverters, AirCons, etc... it's all stuff that can potentially produce EMIs. When this happens I always suggest to break down the environment in smaller bits, pull everything off from wall sockets, pull off USB cables, turning OFF ACs, monitors, PCs etc etc...and then if noise is gone from the pedalboard, start turning everything on again, just one device/cable at time, to find the offender. That's why it's typically an intermittent issue, since it's mostly caused by something else that can be turned off or unplugged, but that isn't part of the pedalboard, so you don't think about it.

To be honest, mine has a tripleplay with bracket, and nickel covers mounted on pickups. Maybe, without all that stuff, and without the battery, stays in the high 9, early 10. Feels good tho. I'm used with my Les Pauls Custom, which are not really any lighter... (apart a '54 Custom that it's just 8 pounds)

Mine is an early batch, from 2011, maybe those days they were heaviest? Anyway, not complaining. ;)

Of course. I do call boat anchors any electric guitar above 9lbs. :) My JTV 59 is almost 11lbs. :)

Since the Variax, without battery, charger and interface, would just be an expensive boat anchor, they will (should) be all there in the package. ;)

HX Stomp has only one send, TRS. You can only assign a send block (either as stereo or mono) one time, as a block along the path, or as a parallel output, at the end of the chain. This means you cant do what you are asking with only the send/return. If you are not using the modeling, just use main output to amp, and send/return for the external pedals. If it's a single amp, the stereo return doesnt make much sense.

If the PS board "exploded" (electrolytic capacitors) means you probably have more damage after it. Just send it to thomann for inspection and repair (if it worth it).

BTW, on a serious note, this situation is being annoying for EU people. Both Variax batteries and Power Cable kit are impossible to find (ETAs are all BS), so for people without a VDI interface in the hardware and a dead battery - the variax is gonna be just an expensive guitar husk.

Chibson helix? :)

Thoman has the BA12 battery "In stock within 1-2 weeks" since 2020... LOL!

Of course it is! Have you ever seen an audio equipment where green flashing on a input meter means something bad? :) No led at all or most of the time, means your input it's too weak, and too close to the noise floor, so if you pump the volume on the PC to bring back some signal, you will end with lot of hiss/noise from the floor. Green means you are far enough from noise floor and far from clipping. Yellow means you are reaching the ceiling of the input stage and headroom is very narrow, red means you cross it, and the input stage is being overloaded. Powercabs are more like studio monitors than a guitar amplifier, so it's better to stay away from clipping both analog and digital sections. BTW, that "yellow led theory", never been about quality of the tone (even Sadities never really wanted to said that imho), but a matter of "perceived" volume and sound pressure available from the powercabs, when people needs more, for any reason. I would say, in a perfect scenario, with a fat and busy high gain preset (properly leveled at the amp stage and at the output), the yellow peaks would just be a natural consequence. But forcing all presets to peak in the yellow (which does represent a very narrow dB range close to the headroom ceiling), it's a plain nonsense because guitar can be either hugely dynamic signal (jazz, blues, finger picking etc...) or super normalized and compressed signal (high gain, compressors, metal rythm etc..). That wide spectrum of tones, it can't all be forced to blink the yellow. That's a laughable goal at best. 100% imho, as always.

Seems you would really benefit of a HX Stomp companion to do all this stuff. I can't honestly think any other efficient solution in terms of remoting, parallel path, stereo, displaying and routing - in a single box. HX Effects also would be perfect, but with the stomp you could completely unload the amp/cab/iR from the main Helix DSP, and also keeping the beatiful display for editing and routing parallel stuff. Price aren't that different, and used market is flooded of HX Stomp in mint condition.